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Oh, I see. Good advice, thank you.

Appreciate the input. The rafters are all hung so toe nails it will be.

I used rafter hangers to help me attach to the ridge board. I used the ones that are only about 3 inches long so the bottom 3 inches or so of rafter just sits on theridge board. Do I also need to nail this part of the rafter, or is the hanger sufficient?

Got it. So just put it under the sill extension, attached to the slab face below?

Thats just a piece of wood from transport. It is coming off before installation.

Thanks. If I leave it on, it will just overhang into thin air. Wont that eventually bend?

I will be framing my garage in the coming week and have a question about setting the man door. As you can see with the attached picture the sill extends outwards by about 1-1/4 inches. The door will sit directly on the slab so there is nowhere for this to go if I set the front of the door...

So to clarify how we got here. I was initially going to buy one of those pre-fab Amish shed/garages. It is 12x22. The cost was about 10k for the structure alone and they reccomended a 4" slab the same size as the building. The contractor came out and said, that sounds sketchy, I would pour...

Spoke to the contractor again, we are going to go with a turned down edge. Thanks for everyone’s advice.

I was speaking to the frost free footer part. And yes, it does not need footers if <400 sqft.

That does not apply to accessory structures under 400 square feet. https://www.baltimorecountymd.gov/departments/pai/application/accessory-structure

Baltimore County.

That is exactly what he was saying. It is a slab without footings. Here is central Maryland. He was concerned that I would be drilling into the slab about 1.5-2" from the edge and it could wind up with cracks, or blowing out the edge. The size of the building does not need footings per the...

Lol. I don’t think so. Granted, he was clear that he would pour whatever I wanted, it was just his suggestion. To be clear, you think a 4” slab without footings will be fine with a 2x4 framed wall, 10 feet high. Pitched rafter roof. Thanks for the help!

He was just concerned that if the building racks or moves in the wind then all the force will be transferred to the attachment points on the slab which are only a few inches from the edge. Is it a legit concern?

I am getting ready to build a 12x22 wood framed detached garage. I had the concrete contractor out today for an estimate and he said he always recommends pouring 1 foot wider than the dimensions of the building to ensure that the edges don’t crack during high winds, freezing thawing cycles, etc...

Now that I am thinking about it, trusses would probably be a better option, huh?

After reading all of this I am leaning towards 10 foot walls and a 8 foot tall door.

Apologies. I meant ridge board, not ridge beam.

So I can go with the top plate and then fur down to the header?