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Gravel is the flake blend that you chose. Those flakes are manufactured by Torginol.

Are you in the Charlotte area? Im just guessing that by your product choice. Or maybe the Raleigh area. Im usually around 120sq ft per gallon for my epoxy basecoat. Another thing I like to do is after I squeegee and backroll the epoxy, I let it kick for a little bit before broadcasting the...

Who manufactured the flakes that you are using? The choice is pretty much Torginol or Estes, but I am guessing since you are using Duravel products, you are using Estes Flakes. I have heard of issues with Estes flakes having moisture issues and creating similar issues to what you are...

Agreed. That is typically the only system I will install, unless someone really wants me to coat their garage in the winter months.

Yea I just use a twin tube caulk gun, but I buy the Euco twin tube cartridges. They do sell that stuff in bulk part A and part B where you would need to mix it but not with the cartridges. The cartridges all come with a mixing tip.

What exactly to you mean by mechanical application? Applying Euco QwikJoint is simple. But you will need a twin tube caulk gun.

After it’s poured, apply a cure and seal. And then after it’s cured for 30+ days, you can put a more substantial sealer on it.

At least in my area, the batch plants get the integral color from the same supplier I get it from as a concrete contractor. The only difference is they will just throw the color into the mixer in the "dissolvable bags" that dont always dissolve, where as I dont put those bags in the mixer...

You have a quite a few options for colored concrete floors. During the pour you can use: -Integral Color - This is usually a mix of granules (powder) that is mixed into the concrete truck, and colors the concrete all the way through. Sometimes the batch plants have liquid dyes that I have...

That is either a poor attempt at polished concrete or a poor attempt at a "grind and seal"

Hire a professional to handle the job. Then you have someone you and the wife can point the finger at if it is not a good result.

Agreed. Looks like two different pours....just not sure why whichever pour was first had such a wonky edge. But your approach is one of two options I would consider as a simple repair. The other approach would be almost identical, except instead of a rigid polyurea crack filler like that...

Wet grinding is an option, but it’ll make a hell of a mess and wouldn’t recommend it with a hand grinder. It’ll create a slurry which you’ll have to figure out a way to remove and dispose of. Dry grinding with a vac attached is probably a much more painless option.

Yea that’s probably why you are having a bad dusting issue. Concrete needs a minimum of 30 Days (officially they say 28 days) before any grinding happens so the concrete didn’t cure properly. I’m sorry for your unfortunate situation! You can grind it with your handheld grinder, it’s going to be...

How soon after the pad was pour did the contractor grind it?

Surfkoat has tons of different colors available. Pick the one you want, but just work your way into the color starting with a very low dose of the dye

So step one 1 prep work. Ive got a full set up of walk behind floor grinders, big *** vacuums, buffers, etc...but this really depends on the condition of your existing concrete. The nice thing about coval is you really dont need to grind a profile in the concrete, it just really needs to be...

@teamango where are you located? City and State? I can find you a good materials supplier near you...if you are interested. I know a lot of them.

Yes, ive used it a bunch and have been trained through coval. It can be a finnicky product. What would you like to know?

I don’t always do a primer coat. I usually will do a primer coat if the concrete is between a soft to medium hardness as it is much more porous and ***** up the epoxy quick. When I do a primer, I just use a 100% solids epoxy, and just pull a very tight coat of it…sometimes referred to as a grout...