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Well done. I like that approach, especially using the mag drill. I'll have to steal that idea.

I have Goodyear, Flexzilla, Flexeel, etc. I like a long 1/4" poly hose for running a nail gun. Goodyear for a paint booth. However, my favorite for general use in the shop... Prevost https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N07GOUG/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I make sure and have some cash around if something comes up on the weekend I want. I drove 5 hours from NM to divide CO to get a Bobcat trencher attachment that was brand new for $3000. The ONLY reason I got it was I had cash on the weekend and I left to get it at 6am on a Sunday. One more day...

I have a Bobcat 328 I bought 10 years ago for $10K. It has paid for itself many times. I agree a hydraulic thumb is a game changer, along with a quick change bucket. I've dug MANY stumps off my place in NM. I also planted about 100 trees with it, put in gas line, etc. The only problem...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Aircraft-Counterbore-Spotfacer-3-4-CA4015-3-4-x-3-16-interchangeable-pilot-HSS/202792133169?hash=item2f375a6231:g:f8EAAOSwy2BdlgPy You can pre-drill 3/16 for the pilot, counterbore, then open it up to your final bolt dimension. All this could be done in a 1/2" drill...

Exactly. Nylog is just thickened refrigeration oil, a product I'm sure came from this old practice.

Nylog always. As mentioned above it isn't that much on Amazon ($13). The torque value on the flair fittings isn't that much and you are crushing two copper surfaces together for a mechanical seal. I want to make sure I'm not losing the torque to the threads or to friction on the backside of...

My oak cupped and the floor buckled. The buckled part has come down, but it isn't perfect. The cupping I've never seen go away on its own without heavy sanding. In my case the floor is 2-1/4x3/4" red oak, so nothing special that can't be replaced.

Your posts are exactly why I try and stay away from any work on a disposable appliance (car) that someone is looking to spend the absolute minimum on and dump as soon as their payoff is close to their trade-in value. Working on trucks, tractors, equipment, machinery, fleet vehicles, etc. that...

Regarding tools, it makes me sick of see a vehicle come in with flat rate damage. Flat rate damage defined as a trail of broken clips, rounded fasteners, stripped or broken bolts, missing hardware, etc. that shows you exactly what has been done to the vehicle before. Much of this is due to cheap...

Last year I had a 15' x 20' section of my backyard patio/pool deck settle about 2". This was a 4" concrete slab with antique brick pavers laid over the top. I had it mud jacked. The guy was able to drill the one inch holes on the mortar joint intersections so it is completely invisible. It was...

I was just forced to retire an Asko washer and dryer because the epoxy potted control board went out and was unavailable from the manufacturer. Asko washers and dryers are rated an 8.3 the the French repairability site, so I am going to call BS (even if you can do board level repairs). I'll...

The tool truck model worked great when the only other option to get what you needed was to spend your day off at Sears. Now anyone can order Snapon tools from their phone and have them delivered to the house quicker than the tool man can deliver them. That or they discover on Amazon that a lot...

Thanks for all of your posting on this thread. I picked this one up, you can't have too many shackles. I can even leave this one outside.

Mike- What are your thoughts on insurance while doing work on other peoples cars for money at your house? I know you are meticulous, but "S" happens.

It's UL listed. There are quite a few in Texas, but you're right it all depends on the POCO and they won't even sell you one until it is approved.

My house is slab on grade with most of the pipes in the slab. They come up into the attic space for the water heaters. This line was tapped onto the water feed for the heater and ran across the joists to a hose bibb inside the garage. Many houses in Texas have their water heaters in the unheated...

I agree. My pipe burst this week was on an insulated pipe. Not on the seam, valve, or **** end, but right in the middle where it should have been the most protected. It was on a branch that I didn't keep dripping (hose bibb). Not much you can do except shut off the water and drain the system.

Here is an easy way to do what you want: http://www.generlink.com/generlink.html Goes between the meter and meter base. $5-800 including a cord to go to your generator.

Nice! Cadillac system. Those manifolds are spendy, but what an advantage for service.