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So I am looking into this some more. Wish I would have known what I was doing before. By the time I add ridge cap vent, soffit vents, mineral wool insulation to help if it becomes damp. I might as well cut the roof stuff off and closed cell spray foam. I got a lot better price on it. But...

I did read that number is different than BCDL. I found the following. Depends on who you ask I guess.

Can you tell from this sheet?

Steel 29 gauge

Yes, that is the same thing I was reading. Thought about blown in cellulose which is slightly less weight. Installing a ridge vent and soffit vents? But the way these trusses are built the caroling is closer to 14 foot with 12 foot walls. So it’s higher than the soffit. Makes it kind of hard...

I thought it was a bit odd the rating looked like a generic engineering drawing and said that was the rating for 14 gauge. I ordered 12 gauge. Didn’t list rating for that but I would assume it’s more than 13lbs per ft.

I looked at the engineering drawing and it said the roof dead load was rated at 13lbs per sq. Ft. That was with 14 gauge tubing and I opted for the 12 gauge.

It’s 4 ft span everywhere. Upgraded from 5’

I could install foam board or fiberglass batts directly against the bubble wrap and just furr the steel out a little bit with 1x3 furring strips?

I didn’t choose spray foam because my quotes were 15-16k. Thought I could do it for less. So if I put furring strips up on the inside of my framing and attach the steel to that vertically it should breath to the inside through the ribs. Sounds like that would work.

So, is there a way I can still use steel on the inside without trapping moisture? I really would like to have the durability of steel. Do I leave a gap between the inner white side of the bubble insulation and foam board or not? I could easily run 2” foam board against the cross bracing...

Yes there is a silver reflective side on the side that’s directly laying on the outer skin.

Yes, the walls were optioned to be installed vertically! But like I said the bubble is smashed between it and the tubing, Perkins, girts. No air space other than the tallest rib on the paneling , which isn’t much. It’s still very hot inside because they don’t put fire strips on before the...

Thanks. I guess insulating it also should be considered. I wanted to eventually heat and cool and use steel on the inside as well for its durability. But since the bubble wrap was placed directly below the outside sheet metal, I am not sure what to do? Short of cutting it all out again to...

I was planning on finishing the inside with steel as well. So it won’t really allow moisture through it either.

I was told if the bubble insulation is installed tight against the outside sheet metal you don’t want an air gap to the insulation or you have A pocket between the bubble wrap and the insulation that could accumulate moisture And mold could start?

Yes to both. Car restoration. Thanks.

Just put up my 1st metal building. Already wish I had done some things differently, but here I am. Located in middle Tennessee. 30x45x12. Bubble insulation that the installer put the metal directly of the bubble wrap with no air gap.😡 It is already warm inside. I plan on putting a ceiling...

I just put up my first metal building and already wishing I had done things a little different, but here I am. I would like some ventilation suggestions please. Shop is 30x45x12 foot side walls. Metal tube frame building with bubble insulation heat barrier laying directly against the metal...