Search results

Found this on MarketPlace near me. Around 500+ pounds, 42”x34” with 1” solid plate top and shelf below. It has 4x3 tube steel legs. Wilton 646 vise was mounted on the top, I’ll clean that up and repaint. Table and vise for $100, can’t beat that price. I weld-filled the vise holes and got it...

not really, couple old files, scissors, box of nitrile gloves, and some old glue.... But the cabinet is nice.

You guys were correct! It was not locked, the rear latch mechanism was engaged. A simple "jimmy" flat bar worked great, opened right up. THANK YOU!

StuartinMN, thanks for the thread link. I wonder if that may be why this one seems locked. I just assumed it was locked with no keys!

I do not see a key code visible. There may be one on the housing once it is removed... but that doesn't help me now ;-)

Now that I took pictures, it isn't a Vidmar, it is a Lista. There are two holes near the rear of the cabinet on the underside (second pic).

Well if it would help I could always drill a hole in the top/rear of the cabinet if that would get me somewhere....

We got a locked vidmar at auction, no keys unfortunately. Doesn't appear there's much inside, but what's the best way to open it with no key? I see holes near the back on the underside, is there a way to access the latch from that? Or am I stuck with trying to drill out the lock?

double post

These were pictures from when we built, that line has been connected and in use for many months. That line goes up to an undercabinet outlet strip. Opening the wall up that much may be more than I'd like to get into just to move an AC line and redo all the OSB and drywall..... What I am...

This is a garage-to-house wall, so not only drywall, but there also a layer of OSB in there too.... If I put in cripple studs, that doesn't help avoid the existing electric line in that area. I'd have to notch out each joist on the end to go around the electric line.

Just to update…. Luckily we took tons of pictures as we built the house to reference back to for any updates or projects. So very glad I did. I knew there was some electrical wiring in the main wall behind where I was considering attaching the ledger board. Referencing pictures and doing some...

Fire rating of drywall if cut into it, hadn't even thought of that. Thanks. Thank you for all the input!

I would have 10' of headroom clearance at the end of the platform, so that isn't an issue. I think having the joists land on top of the knee wall studs is more important than cutting into the main wall drywall to screw to those studs. I'm not sure the knee wall studs and main wall studs would...

I thought of that too. The people on the other side of the wall is me and the wife. I was going to put some vibration isolation mounts under the compressor if I do ever put it up there. Not sure I will do install it there, but it was an idea....

I have an attached garage with workspace on our new build house. One of my requirements for the new build was basement access from the garage. Love it, can't imagine being without the basement stairs from the garage after this. But one thing it does create is some 'dead space' in the upper...

This is a Trenton anvil with the AJAX stamp right on top of the Trenton logo. Not uncommon to see that. Please post a closeup picture of the serial number on the front foot under the horn!

Nice find G-Man. Along with Trenton logo stamp and serial #'s, I've also been tracking A&H's since they too switched their logo stamp styles several times during their production. Yours is the 4th style of stamp that they used.

Trenton stamped ACME for Sears. you can see the bottom portion of the "..CME" letters.

That is a German anvil, it is the Holthaus stamp.