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Above 1200 Sq/FT Restored 1930's Auto Shop

Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
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BB767

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Actually its a bridge in London.................................................................Oh wait, did n't we sell it to you once before...:lol_hitti

& I for one do believe you would have restored the weight properly to ensure it was bang on the stated amount.

It reminds me of counter balance calibrating weights used when setting up lifts (elevators).

Funny you should mention that. I'd heard it referred to as an elevator weight once. Maybe there's more to that than we know.

BTW, it's a swell bridge. I heard it was so nice they decided to create a lake so it would have some water to span. Imagine that? What you must think of us Yanks? :dunno: :D

Thomas
 
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nissan_crawler

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Wichita, KS
I felt if I'm going to fly them I ought to know what makes them tick. It's been very helpful when doing maintenance write ups. You should see some of the write ups some non A & P's have done. :headscrat It's hard enough to trouble shoot problems without accurate, concise descriptions.

I know there are many small engine NOS parts that were removed from the shop and placed in storage. As I get to them I'll watch for Wisconsin one's for you.

Only on page 30, you've got some sleep deprivation ahead I believe. Sorry about that. :D

Thomas

Trust me, I've seen those write ups, and banged my head against the wall as a result. You're right about the description. So many airplane issues can be caused by temperature, altitude, etc., and yet, it's hardly ever mentioned.

Try working a high oil pressure issue that you can't repeat on a plane for 3 days to no avail, only to find out it happened on the first start of the day, on a 0* day, when they went to taxi out after only running a few minutes...

"With one engine running, while cycling t/r's, flight controls, and speedbrakes, we had a low hydraulic pressure message." Yeah, and? Why were you running one engine, and why were you running every component on the plane at once? :headscrat

I finally got through the thread. Of course, I spent 6 hours getting the rest of it read tonight. I appreciate you looking out for any Wisconsin parts.

As for this thread, simply incredible what you've done. Letting the family members pick through, keeping his memory going with items in the shop, sending that manifold out, just awesome. I wish there was more people in this world like that.:beer:
 

hobbitss

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Southestern Massachusetts
There are two corners, one in the tool shed and one in the lean-to that are unexplored as yet. I see some interesting "items" lurking about back there and I'm working my way in. With the additional shelf space now opening up in the barn I've got a place to put some of it once it's sorted out.

I'd hoped to get that done last summer. Turns out that was a little ambitious but I did manage to finish the 2 car garage. Honey house just has one cabinet full of old car radios and dash instruments. That should go pretty quick. It's going to be 2 degrees F (-16 C) tonight. I'm not real motivated to scrounge around out there right now.

Thomas

Don't forget the before and after photos of the crime scene...

Tools...
 
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BB767

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Oven Fresh.....

IMG_3882.jpg


IMG_3883.jpg


This is a test run on the cover plate. This came out of the oven about an hour ago. It's Saturday night and the guys at the powder coaters wanted to get this to me for a peek see so they ran it to my house on their way home from working all day. Both colors are powder coated, first the blue then the white. They weren't happy with the first results, so they redid it.

IMG_3877.jpg


It was hard to photograph because of the light reflection. The surface is very shiny. I'll take it out to the shop tomorrow in the sunlight to match up the blue.

BTW, while I have your attention, the replacement rivets for the data plate didn't pan out.

FloorJack9sm.jpg


I'm starting to run into a dead end trying to find them. Any thoughts out there on sources for small, soft metal pan or round headed rivets that go into a blind hole? I don't want to remove the data plate until I have replacement rivets in hand. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

And so it begins........

Thomas
 

jaso

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Apr 26, 2010
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Geelong Australia
Let's try continuing with the air meter now that I'm better rested. (Nothing like making a goof up to start your day is there?? :sad:)

IMG_3841.jpg


Once the rust converter dries it's paintable. The converter turns black so where it shows around the edges of the number window cutouts I used a little Testors white enamel paint. Only on the sides of the cutouts, not on the face itself.

IMG_3845.jpg


The face plate is held on by screws that have white felt washers under the heads. This is to prevent cracking the porcelain on the face plate when tightening the screws. There were a couple of scratches on the face plate and I didn't think I could match the color close enough so I just waxed the the face plate. That should keep those scratched areas from rusting for a long time. (the screw heads won't show, no need to clock them)

IMG_3846.jpg


I don't know of any place to get theses special white felt washers, not being reproduced to the best of my knowledge. I'm just fortunate enough that my air meter still had the originals. A little cleaning and they were good to go.

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The word AIR on the front is illuminated and light from that spills down the front so the meter is legible and usable at night. You have to disassemble an awful lot of "stuff" to change that bulb. So I hunted down.....

IMG_3154.jpg


...2.5 watt LED bulb for it. GE says it's good for 12,000 hours so I should get a fews years use before it needs to be replaced. :thumbup:

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The seals for the front and rear covers were also replaced. They are only at the tops of the frame. That's the black material seen around the edge of the frame.

IMG_3838.jpg


Here are the covers, newly powder coated.

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Since they were powder coated I ran a tap down the threads to clean them up before installing them.

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Some of the mounting hardware.

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IMG_3856.jpg


You can see that the screws for the face plate don'e readily show.

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You have to look in the side to see them. That's a good way to check to see if those felt washers are there or not. If you're looking to buy one of these air meters and it's got those white felt washers there's a good chance it hasn't been "messed" with too much and the face plate is probably not cracked under the screw heads.

IMG_3858.jpg


IMG_3859.jpg


I waxed the data plate and used new stainless steel screws on it.....

IMG_3861.jpg


... and on the cover screws and washers also. If a piece of equipment is being used outside I really like using stainless hardware where ever possible. It's readily available anymore, and I find it's not all that expensive.

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The hose hook had to be installed before the front cover is fully installed. That's a fun trick to do by yourself and any of you who have done this, you know what I mean!!

IMG_3867.jpg


IMG_3868.jpg


Not completely done yet, to be continued....

Thomas

Amazing Thomas

the work you do with restoring these things is a work of art

thanks for shareing with us

Jason

P.s I work for a company that make felts for the paper industry and you could probably use some of it to 1 make washers ect and 2 it works really well as a floor cleaner ( could be a bit thick for washers though )
 
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sfckiddo

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Messages
93
the round headed rivets they used for the early chrome tailgate caps with the pin you drive in the center might work if you set the pin down some and fill it with liquid metal then scuff off the top
 

ZRX61

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.

BTW, while I have your attention, the replacement rivets for the data plate didn't pan out.


I'm starting to run into a dead end trying to find them. Any thoughts out there on sources for small, soft metal pan or round headed rivets that go into a blind hole? I don't want to remove the data plate until I have replacement rivets in hand. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

And so it begins........

Thomas

Those rivets should be threaded, but it's not a tight thread like a screw, more like the twist in a rifle barrel. I just can't remember where the hell I got them from before.
 

willy3486

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Jan 14, 2010
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Middle Tennessee
Those rivets should be threaded, but it's not a tight thread like a screw, more like the twist in a rifle barrel. I just can't remember where the hell I got them from before.
You may want to check at camper places I have rebuilt a few of the old vintage and canned ham trailers and they use these screws as described by zrx61. A PITA to get out,they are used to hold the trim on the corners. I hate them, I go back with stainless steel screws. The reason is if I need to recaulk the corners I want to unscrew them .

Heres a couple of places to check, you may want to ask a local mom and pop hardware store. The mom and pop near me I can usually get what I want by describing the part.

http://www.rivetsinstock.com/?gclid=CLPN6YjCz6YCFQjrKgoddRc6JQ

http://www.airpartsinc.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=25&cat=Rivets

http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/searchresults.asp?Extensive_Search=Y&Search=rivet&x=0&y=0
 
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tdkkart

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Eastern Iowa
BTW, while I have your attention, the replacement rivets for the data plate didn't pan out.

FloorJack9sm.jpg


I'm starting to run into a dead end trying to find them. Any thoughts out there on sources for small, soft metal pan or round headed rivets that go into a blind hole? I don't want to remove the data plate until I have replacement rivets in hand. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.



Google "Drive screws", McMaster carries some, as does Fastenal.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#drive-screws/=apjvn5
 

Kevin54

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Google "Drive screws", McMaster carries some, as does Fastenal.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#drive-screws/=apjvn5

Ditto on the "drive screws". The bad thing is that the old ones will not come out easily. Fastenal carries tham along with a lot of other places. The screws themselves are pretty hard. Sometimes IF you can get a hold of he head, you can back them out. But if you want to salvage the tag, the best bet is to look at the various size of drive screws (they are all standard) find the one that has your head size, then look to see what size of drill it takes for the hole. Center a spot on the head and drill it until the head pops off. After doing all four, you should still have a center spot where you can drill the rest of the screw out. As I said though, the screws are hard, so you want a good drill bit that is sharp, and go at it with a slow speed, or use a carbide. If you think that you can get a small pair of parallel pliers or small vise grips on the head, you can try it that way, just make sure you mask off your plate to keep from damaging it.

0172720_hr4c.jpg


Drive screw detail http://www.fastenal.com/web/search/...rch+All&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntpc=1&Nty=0 A Machinist Handbook will also show everything you need to know about a drive screw as far as drill size, etc.
 

gasgas17

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Nov 7, 2009
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443
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Nova Scotia, Canada
You could use a cutting wheel on a dremal tool to cut slots in the rivet heads, then back them out with a slot screw driver. If that does not pan out you could still drill them out.

I would love to have that air pump hanging on the front of my garage. You couldn't find a place to air up around here to save your sole and these coin operated units are slow and unreliable. That's when you can even find one. I always wondered what was so wrong with the service station business model (when if you found gas, you found air) over the convinence/gas model we have today.
 

johnnybentwrench

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Los Angeles
Oven Fresh.....

IMG_3882.jpg


IMG_3883.jpg


This is a test run on the cover plate. This came out of the oven about an hour ago. It's Saturday night and the guys at the powder coaters wanted to get this to me for a peek see so they ran it to my house on their way home from working all day. Both colors are powder coated, first the blue then the white. They weren't happy with the first results, so they redid it.

IMG_3877.jpg


It was hard to photograph because of the light reflection. The surface is very shiny. I'll take it out to the shop tomorrow in the sunlight to match up the blue.

BTW, while I have your attention, the replacement rivets for the data plate didn't pan out.

FloorJack9sm.jpg


I'm starting to run into a dead end trying to find them. Any thoughts out there on sources for small, soft metal pan or round headed rivets that go into a blind hole? I don't want to remove the data plate until I have replacement rivets in hand. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

And so it begins........

Thomas

try BMW. ask for brass rivets that hold on the name (DATA)plate for a 1955-1969 R50 R60 R69S. Ace Hardware has a section of rivets too.
 

3bay

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Dec 29, 2007
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157
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Indiana
0172720_hr4c.jpg

Those should work, they also use a similar rivet to hold the serial number plate on a Cummins diesel engine.
 
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BB767

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Here are some close ups with the data plate cleaned up a little bit. It is in excellent condition and should clean up nicely. The lettering is all raised and shows no signs of having been dented. Removing the old rivets without damaging the data plate should be no problem if I'm patient and last time I looked I was...........very. :)

IMG_3898.jpg


BTW, the orange paint specks are from the trailers they made in the shop back in mid-1970's.

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The heads measure approximately 1/4" across but the blind hole they fit in is only about 1/4" deep making for some very short rivets. If I can find the correct diameter with the right looking heads, shorting them would be relatively easy if need be.

Thank you for all the suggestions. I did various Google searches for rivets going deep on each search, 8-10 pages deep on each trying to find some obscure old source. I'm guessing they are soft metal, note how the heads have flattened out somewhat from installation. They probably have spiral shanks as many of you thought as well.

I have several different pieces of equipment with data plates from about that era to examine.

IMG_3917.jpg


Oliver Disk Sander, 1939.

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Delta scroll saw, 1928.

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Delta Drill press, 1928.

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Delta Drill press, 1936.

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Delta Band Saw, 1948.

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Delta Table Saw, 1948.

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The one that is "bang" on as 51rider would call it is on the 1944 Yates American 16" jointer.

IMG_3932.jpg


The heads measure 1/4" across and are driven into blind holes in cast iron much like the Walker would be.

IMG_3916.jpg


The 1944 Yates American 18" planer uses brass rivets interestingly enough. Brass just wouldn't look right I don't think.

So an ideal source would be someone with rivets who, perhaps, serviced old electric motors. Maybe rewound them? Hopefully this might help someone with some other ideas. As a fall back I'm sure I can use some of the more modern type but I'm still trying to find vintage ones if possible. I'd heard restoring vintage motorcycles uses this same type. Any thoughts?

Thomas
 
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BB767

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Don't Panic, It's Only The Camera............

IMG_3882.jpg


This is what it looked like at night at my home........

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......and this is a better representative of what it looks like in better lighting. It is not suppose to match the older, original paint jack on the left. That one was painted a slightly different color hue than the one I'm restoring.

IMG_3911.jpg


The problem with digital cameras is they sometimes don't do a very good job mixing the colors correctly as seen in the first two pictures. I'm trying to match the original painted parts of this jack as found under the cover. In person the match is extremely close. Note the cross bar near the top with the intersecting bar. As I said earlier, there are different hues on different surfaces everywhere you look under that cover so this is likely what I'll go with.....once I find some rivets.

Thomas
 

johno

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Southern Ont.
Thomas

I just found this thread today, really interesting, so far i've gone thru 50 pages, the rest will have to wait for another day. Thanks for the good read.
 
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BB767

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Last phase of the ECO Air Meter project:

IMG_3901.jpg

The water separator valve had to be installed...

IMG_3902.jpg

...and the air hose coupler...

IMG_3903.jpg

EyeCroppedsm-1.jpg

Since the meter is illuminated for night time use I installed a dusk/dawn photo eye to control that function. However with the meter on at night it would attract bugs. To minimize that the electrical power is controlled by one of the light switches in the shop. The meter will only illuminate when the shop lights are on and presumably I'm there. It would be nice to have it illuminated all the time at night but it would be constantly swarmed with bugs I'm afraid. This is my compromise.

IMG_3904.jpg

The eye was installed on the bottom cover plate which is also powder coated. ECO painted the original covers black so that's what I did.

IMG_3905.jpg

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The newly powder coated wall bracket was installed. Note the polished stainless steel acorn nuts and washers. They not only dress it up, but by covering the ends of the wall studs, it keeps them from rusting up, making removal that much easier in the future. Maybe someone will thank me 40 years from now...:dunno:

IMG_3836.jpg

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Bottom cover plate installed...

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...with stainless screws and washers.

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The chrome plate above the hose hook is referred to as a scuff plate...


IMG_3937.jpg

...and heres why. It protects the face of the meter when coiling up and hanging the hose.

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IMG_3949.jpg

And ECO also dressed that plate up a little bit to add some visual interest and the ribs add strength. Very clever bit of design and execution on their part I think. All ECO meters came from the factory with red air hose and that style air chuck.

IMG_3961.jpg

These meters were build originally with good design and rugged parts. They survived out in the open and functioned well with little or no maintenance, year after year in all kinds of weather. The only regular maintenance is opening the water separator valve from time to time to drain any accumulated water. Since I separate water in my air system back at the compressor I doubt I'll have much of an issue with that.

Better than new now, all external parts are now either powder coated, stainless steel or chrome. There are no unpainted, bare metal internal parts and most internal hardware is stainless, copper or brass. With the sheltered area where it's installed, it's pretty well protected and should maintain it's appearance and have another long, useful life just as it's done for the last 57 years.

And that concludes this portion of our program....

IMG_3957.jpg

...the benches are now...

IMG_3958.jpg

... all clear so time to move on to the next major project....

IMG_3959.jpg

...the Walker floor jack.

Thomas
 
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kbuhagiar

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Escondido, CA
And that concludes this portion of our program....

IMG_3957.jpg


...the benches are now...

IMG_3958.jpg


... all clear so time to move on to the next major project....

IMG_3959.jpg


...the Walker floor jack.

Thomas

Based on the sneak peek of the powder coated finish, that Walker floor jack will be gorgeous when it is done!
 
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BB767

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Amazing Thomas

the work you do with restoring these things is a work of art

thanks for shareing with us

Jason

P.s I work for a company that make felts for the paper industry and you could probably use some of it to 1 make washers ect and 2 it works really well as a floor cleaner ( could be a bit thick for washers though )

Some of the old shop equipment are works of art don't you think. All I'm doing is bring out what's already there. Back then effort went into the visual appearance of the object as well as it's function.

LiftControlsm.jpg


RotaryCab7sm.jpg


Chocks13sm.jpg


IMG_3888.jpg


IMG_3890.jpg


IMG_3940.jpg


Lathesm1.jpg


IMG_1662.jpg


IMG_1661.jpg


Those are but just a very few examples. I could on but for the life of me I can't understand why more of this equipment is not saved, restored and reused.................Thank you Jason for the kind words.

I have many more "objects" to go before we're through here. Stick around. ;)

Thomas
 
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BB767

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Thomas

I just found this thread today, really interesting, so far i've gone thru 50 pages, the rest will have to wait for another day. Thanks for the good read.

Hello johno and welcome. It's probably not what you thought it would be at first. We get into a little bit of everything here it seems. By the time this thread is done it'll be the equivalent of a college education at the cost of just a little missed sleep. Pretty good deal wouldn't you say? :)

Best of luck on the other 65 pages you have remaining. :wtf:

Thomas
 

rlwhitetr3b

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East Central Illinois
I’m ruined just ruined and it is all you fault Thomas!:tantrum2:

I was watching TV and a commercial for the new Chevrolet Volt came on. What do I notice when they plugged the thing in the wall? :mad:

The screw on the cover plate of the outlet wasn’t clocked! :lol_hitti
 

MReynolds

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Jul 20, 2010
Messages
23
Oven Fresh.....

Both colors are powder coated, first the blue then the white. They weren't happy with the first results, so they redid it.

Thomas

Fantastic job and the color is stunning!

Seems to me the fine details would be more "crisp" if the white were applied first, then the blue; with the lettering/raised detail masked off. Your pictures make it look as if the letters were a little sloppy. Of course, this may not be the case and simply a resultant look due to the digital image quality. (?)

Mike
 
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BB767

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Fantastic job and the color is stunning!

Seems to me the fine details would be more "crisp" if the white were applied first, then the blue; with the lettering/raised detail masked off. Your pictures make it look as if the letters were a little sloppy. Of course, this may not be the case and simply a resultant look due to the digital image quality. (?)

Mike

Mike you have a keen eye and the result brings out an ugly truth. First of all the cover was originally coated all in white and then the blue shot on top just as you suggested. The result was small specks of white bleeding thought everywhere on the cover which was of course....HBE- Hairy Bad Error. So the cover was stripped and completely redone in the reverse order, all blue and then the white lettering was done on top of the blue, much better. Now for the ugly truth.........

IMG_3891.jpg


... and Mike you have to promise, this is just between you and me OK? You can't tell anyone else, but the letters are a little sloppy. Ugly truth, that's the way Walker made them. Shocking I know but sadly true. Look at the cover plate with the original paint. That cover is made of cast steel. The lettering and stripes are nicely raised and the edges very crisp, beautiful work. Now look at the cover in question, it was made some years later when Walker changed the design to stamped steel, a cheaper process and the result....sloppy letters and stripes. I know it really hurts doesn't it, me too. :sad:

IMG_3886.jpg


The stamping process leaves a small curved radius on the edge of the letters and stripes that doesn't define them nearly as well as the cast steel cover. Probably the later in the production run the cover was stamped the more worn the dies were that did the stamping and the worse it was. I'm afraid we look at this from a 21st century point of view and judge it by todays standard and not that of the era in which it was made. The overall design is just so very beautiful they kind of dropped the ball with execution of that stamped cover detail.

What are the different options to get around that? We're kicking around different ideas, one of which is to not powder coat the letters and have a sign painter letter them by hand so that he could compensate for the slight deformity of the shapes. Down side to that is you give up the durability of powder coat but probably get a better visual appearance....until the white starts to get chipped up from use which would not be nearly as likely if they were left powder coated. It's not a perfect world is it??

Ok now Mike you promise this doesn't get out, right. Are ya with me buddy?? Maybe no one else will notice. ;)

Sealed Lips Thomas
 
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BB767

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I’m ruined just ruined and it is all you fault Thomas!:tantrum2:

I was watching TV and a commercial for the new Chevrolet Volt came on. What do I notice when they plugged the thing in the wall? :mad:

The screw on the cover plate of the outlet wasn’t clocked! :lol_hitti

Now I know for sure it's true, I have created a monster. First I deprived poor unsuspecting people of their sleep, next I drove completely innocent folks in New Zealand mad and now this, the latest blow. People are walking around confessing and whispering in hushed tones.............I see unclocked screws............everywhere. :scared:

Oh the humanity of it all, will it never end?????????????????

Chastised Thomas
 

scarab

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Jan 20, 2011
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Adelaide, South Australia
Dont feel bad Thomas....I personally love your dedication to the project and respect for the previous owner and their family....awesome work.

I only just joined this forum and have hardly had any time to check out other peoples garages because all my time has been spent reading through your thread. I am totally absorbed by it. Your meticulous work is definitely to be commended! Thanks so much for sharing this with us all!!

All the best from Adelaide, South Australia

Aussie Paul (aka: Scarab)
 

Call me the Breeze

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Sebring Fl
Some of the old shop equipment are works of art don't you think. All I'm doing is bring out what's already there. Back then effort went into the visual appearance of the object as well as it's function.


IMG_3940.jpg



Those are but just a very few examples. I could on but for the life of me I can't understand why more of this equipment is not saved, restored and reused.................Thank you Jason for the kind words.

I have many more "objects" to go before we're through here. Stick around. ;)

Thomas

Thomas... Is it just me, or possibly the photo, but the air meter looks crooked... I figured it is the photo, because I know what a stickler you are about things being crooked. LOL!
 

3bay

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Dec 29, 2007
Messages
157
Location
Indiana
Thomas, just a thought, you ever consider changing the stamped cover with a cast cover like the other jack you have? Theres bound to be some donor jacks laying around somewhere. I read a jack thread here the other day, there was a Guy who redid a old walker jack.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=45278

Just thinking out loud here.

Rich

P.S. - The next time I fly, I hope I get a pilot that's a perfectionist like you are...LOL
 

dmeray1

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Aug 12, 2010
Messages
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Mike you have a keen eye and the result brings out an ugly truth. First of all the cover was originally coated all in white and then the blue shot on top just as you suggested. The result was small specks of white bleeding thought everywhere on the cover which was of course....HBE- Hairy Bad Error. So the cover was stripped and completely redone in the reverse order, all blue and then the white lettering was done on top of the blue, much better. Now for the ugly truth.........

IMG_3891.jpg


... and Mike you have to promise, this is just between you and me OK? You can't tell anyone else, but the letters are a little sloppy. Ugly truth, that's the way Walker made them. Shocking I know but sadly true. Look at the cover plate with the original paint. That cover is made of cast steel. The lettering and stripes are nicely raised and the edges very crisp, beautiful work. Now look at the cover in question, it was made some years later when Walker changed the design to stamped steel, a cheaper process and the result....sloppy letters and stripes. I know it really hurts doesn't it, me too. :sad:

IMG_3886.jpg


The stamping process leaves a small curved radius on the edge of the letters and stripes that doesn't define them nearly as well as the cast steel cover. Probably the later in the production run the cover was stamped the more worn the dies were that did the stamping and the worse it was. I'm afraid we look at this from a 21st century point of view and judge it by todays standard and not that of the era in which it was made. The overall design is just so very beautiful they kind of dropped the ball with execution of that stamped cover detail.

What are the different options to get around that? We're kicking around different ideas, one of which is to not powder coat the letters and have a sign painter letter them by hand so that he could compensate for the slight deformity of the shapes. Down side to that is you give up the durability of powder coat but probably get a better visual appearance....until the white starts to get chipped up from use which would not be nearly as likely if they were left powder coated. It's not a perfect world is it??

Ok now Mike you promise this doesn't get out, right. Are ya with me buddy?? Maybe no one else will notice. ;)

Sealed Lips Thomas

Not wanting to sound stupid....is there such a thing as "clear" powder coat. You could do the detail work in paint that hopefully would not be affected by the baking process????????
 

dmeray1

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 12, 2010
Messages
64
Will have to get it recalibrated now you added weight to it... ;)

IMG_3833.jpg

We have a 50# weight like that and it is used to calibrate the four scales we use to check the weights of our Road Race Go Karts after we race. If someone is disqualified and complains that the scales are reading too light, we pop that bad boy on each scale to show the scales are dead on.
 

magnusk750

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 6, 2010
Messages
501
Location
Estonia
Oi. I've so far only read the 10-15 first posts in this thread. Thought it was a quite usual shop refurbish, nothing wrong but not very exiting. Then I saw it being one of the 2010 favorite threads and had a look at the last pages.

There we go! How long will it take? I've got 116 b-y pages to look through now! GJ is dangerous to your mental health. Now I must keep on with my studies. I have an exam tomorrow. Mathematics. Must. Now. Must. Must.Exam.Tomorrow!:eek:
 

toranaback

Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2010
Messages
7
Oven Fresh.....

IMG_3882.jpg


IMG_3883.jpg


This is a test run on the cover plate. This came out of the oven about an hour ago. It's Saturday night and the guys at the powder coaters wanted to get this to me for a peek see so they ran it to my house on their way home from working all day. Both colors are powder coated, first the blue then the white. They weren't happy with the first results, so they redid it.

IMG_3877.jpg


It was hard to photograph because of the light reflection. The surface is very shiny. I'll take it out to the shop tomorrow in the sunlight to match up the blue.

BTW, while I have your attention, the replacement rivets for the data plate didn't pan out.

FloorJack9sm.jpg


I'm starting to run into a dead end trying to find them. Any thoughts out there on sources for small, soft metal pan or round headed rivets that go into a blind hole? I don't want to remove the data plate until I have replacement rivets in hand. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

And so it begins........

Thomas

thomas, try your local caterpillar dealership, the serial no. plates are held on with small rviets like the ones on your jack . if you need i may be able to find you a part no and description. but i will only have the au$ value.
cheers
Mick:thumbup:
 
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BB767

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 24, 2009
Messages
3,724
Location
Philo, IL
Dont feel bad Thomas....I personally love your dedication to the project and respect for the previous owner and their family....awesome work.

I only just joined this forum and have hardly had any time to check out other peoples garages because all my time has been spent reading through your thread. I am totally absorbed by it. Your meticulous work is definitely to be commended! Thanks so much for sharing this with us all!!

All the best from Adelaide, South Australia

Aussie Paul (aka: Scarab)

Gday to you Paul and welcome to the fun here. I see you have noticed you got sucked into the vortices of this thread. Your kind and generous comments are duly noted and much appreciated. As you can tell, Chris and I both have enjoyed sharing this experience or adventure as some might call it. I have learned from others before me and now it's my turn to share.

You guys aren't getting hammered the way they are up in Queensland are you? Boy that's a mess isn't it? Hope they get dried out by the time I get over that way for a visit in a year or so.

Thomas
 
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BB767

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 24, 2009
Messages
3,724
Location
Philo, IL
Tremendous stuff, very inspiring. I tend to be attracted to older stuff myself and much prefer vintage tools. Thanks for sharing!

Once you start to actually experience the goodness that is inherent in many older tools you get a little spoiled don't you think? :) Welcome to my world greenbank and check back here with us.

Thomas
 
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