wilton vise paint?

Joelfke · May 27, 2011

im trying to restore a cruddy 6in wilton vise. sandblasting it and then want to repaint. what kind of paint do you guys use on vises? i tried painting a different vise but the paint comes off in chunks like it didnt stick to begin with.

PT Doc · May 27, 2011

Sand, prime then enamel should work out well.

onemore · May 27, 2011

Degrease and clean well before paint or primer

Zrexxer · May 27, 2011

Do a full white blast with silica sand or another coarse blasting media and anything will stick. Degrease before painting. I use Rustoleum industrial.

Joelfke · May 27, 2011

Zrexxer said:
Do a full white blast with silica sand or another coarse blasting media and anything will stick. Degrease before painting. I use Rustoleum industrial.

ill try that..thanks!

Zrexxer · May 27, 2011

I did this Cman that way; blasted it 100% back to bare iron, the the Rusto safety red:

Joelfke · May 27, 2011

that looks great. ill probably make a new thread with pics once my sandblaster gets working again. thanks!

ZRX61 · May 27, 2011

I use plastic bead to clean the crud & paint off, then glassbead for the good clean, then wipe with laquer thinner & spray with Rustoleum rattlecans.

Joelfke · May 27, 2011

what color are wiltons normally? that light blue?

Zrexxer · May 27, 2011

Kind of this-colorish.

lauver · May 27, 2011

Joel,

An absolutely clean surface is critical to any paint job. Use a metal primer paint first and let dry. Then apply a few coats of color enamel. Let dry.

Just a note on spray can enamels. These enamels dry to the touch in a short order, but they take for ever to fully dry. I generally give things a full month before pressing them back in service. You can speed up the drying process with heat lamps or bake painted parts in your oven at low temperatures (say 250 degrees) for several hours, then turn the oven off and let the vise cool down in the oven overnight. In the morning your vise will be cool and the paint will be hard, dry, and durable.

Note: Your house will stink if you use the oven and your wife will be pissed at you long after the smell is gone.

Arachnotron · May 27, 2011

Zrexxer said:
Kind of this-colorish.

Rustoleum Hammered has a similar color.

autopts · May 27, 2011

Rust-o-leum Hammered Verde Green is almost a perfect match. In a shadow it matches almost perfect.

ZRX61 · May 27, 2011

Painted mine gray...

Joelfke · May 27, 2011

Arachnotron said:
Rustoleum Hammered has a similar color.

awesome thanks! ill be sure to post pictures for you vise guys! :beer:

MrMark · May 27, 2011

I find Rustoleum to be poor as in not durable in general. Anyone have any better paint spray cans? Krylon always used to spray and dry better but I wonder if it is still better? I don't see it around in the stores.

Lookin4'67Galaxieconv · May 27, 2011

MrMark said:
I find Rustoleum to be poor as in not durable in general.

I don't know how you're using it, but I've found it to be an excellent paint for respraying toolboxes...

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38758&highlight=rick+mears

DavidB · May 27, 2011

I didn't have any luck finding Verde Green in stores. I think they have discontinued it. I saw it online but in 6 can packs.

Beaumont67 · May 27, 2011

The only metal primer in a can, I will buy is: mar-hyde, Single Stage Self Etching Primer
- this stuff ADHERES like an epoxy would / comes in a tall 19oz spray can, from NAPA or UAP

Today, 04:36 PM #10
Zrexxer - I like your vice color, as pictured.

------------------------------------------------
Beaumont { :>)) www.petperfectexpress.com
1965 Malibu S/S, 1966 Beaumont Custom original paint, 1967 Beaumont Custom, 1967 Beaumont Custom original paint, 1967 Beaumont 396-350HP Sport Deluxe M21-411's - SOLD 1970 Judge

ZRX61 · May 27, 2011

MrMark said:
I find Rustoleum to be poor as in not durable in general.

It's for a vise, not the Sistine Chapel

scooby074 · May 27, 2011

Another vote for sandblast and Rustoleum Hammertone. Its much tougher than regular enamel.. Thinner too. I buy it by the quart and brush it on. So far so good.

Zrexxer · May 27, 2011

Beaumont67 said:
Zrexxer - I like your vice color, as pictured.

Assuming you're talking about the Wilton, then credit goes entirely to Wilton - it came from the factory with that paint on it.

Kirbot · May 27, 2011

I would avoid Rustoleum.
A lot of oils and chemicals strip it right off.

The Hammered Rustoleum isn't too bad, but it chips easily.

Maybe this stuff would work better.
http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp...ultView&ip_categoryId=&ip_mode=&ip_perPage=20
I've never used the rattle cans, but I've been pretty happy with the quart cans.

Catalyze · May 27, 2011

I usually "******" the vise parts (sort of throwing a toaster into soapy water) until the breakers blow, then wire wheel until I lose all feelings in my hands, then I wipe it all down with lacquer thinner while my hands turn white and dry crack. At that point the wind has picked up above 20 mph so that is my cue to start painting. After that it's time for the "meds" and it all seems fine.
Actually, I use electrolysis on the parts that are large, solvent tank the smaller items and grinder wire wheel them. The large parts then get an angle grinder with wire cup brush and then masked. Wipe down with lacquer thinner and then blow off with filtered air. Rustoleum primer (although Mar-Hyde is wonderful stuff too) sprayed on....5 min wait...then Rustoleum Enamel over the top. I like the Rustoleum primer since it states a quick flash off then top coat.
Craig

ZRX61 · May 28, 2011

Kirbot said:
I would avoid Rustoleum.
A lot of oils and chemicals strip it right off.

I used blue rustoleum rattlecans on both my Morgans & wiped one down with laquer thinner last week. Didn't harm the paint at all...

MrMark · May 28, 2011

Kirbot said:
I would avoid Rustoleum.
A lot of oils and chemicals strip it right off.

The Hammered Rustoleum isn't too bad, but it chips easily.

Maybe this stuff would work better.
http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp...ultView&ip_categoryId=&ip_mode=&ip_perPage=20
I've never used the rattle cans, but I've been pretty happy with the quart cans.

Exactly. The hammered rustoleum chips easily. That is my experience too. It has always been considered a poor paint but for some reason it continues to sell. There must be better alternatives. It also takes forever to dry - like months.

Kirbot · May 28, 2011

ZRX61 said:
I used blue rustoleum rattlecans on both my Morgans & wiped one down with laquer thinner last week. Didn't harm the paint at all...

Wiping it down wont hurt it any, but if you spill any on it and not clean it up right away, thats when you will see problem.

Transmission fluid for example, strips it right off after it sits a while.

zekers59 · May 28, 2011

Catalyze said:
I usually "******" the vise parts (sort of throwing a toaster into soapy water) until the breakers blow, then wire wheel until I lose all feelings in my hands, then I wipe it all down with lacquer thinner while my hands turn white and dry crack. At that point the wind has picked up above 20 mph so that is my cue to start painting. After that it's time for the "meds" and it all seems fine.
Craig

Accurate embellishment of standard procedure........ :lol_hitti

ZRX61 · May 28, 2011

Kirbot said:
Wiping it down wont hurt it any, but if you spill any on it and not clean it up right away, thats when you will see problem.

Transmission fluid for example, strips it right off after it sits a while.

It's just a vise & I still have rattlecans

autopts · May 28, 2011

Catalyze said:
I usually "******" the vise parts (sort of throwing a toaster into soapy water) until the breakers blow, then wire wheel until I lose all feelings in my hands, then I wipe it all down with lacquer thinner while my hands turn white and dry crack. At that point the wind has picked up above 20 mph so that is my cue to start painting. After that it's time for the "meds" and it all seems fine.
Actually, I use electrolysis on the parts that are large, solvent tank the smaller items and grinder wire wheel them. The large parts then get an angle grinder with wire cup brush and then masked. Wipe down with lacquer thinner and then blow off with filtered air. Rustoleum primer (although Mar-Hyde is wonderful stuff too) sprayed on....5 min wait...then Rustoleum Enamel over the top. I like the Rustoleum primer since it states a quick flash off then top coat.
Craig

eh? Wha?

Kirbot · May 28, 2011

ZRX61 said:
It's just a vise & I still have rattlecans

And thats OK.
Nobody is going to try and force you to use a decent paint.

But I know I was plenty pissed after I painted my lathe with rustoleum and found out what effect cutting fluid has on it.

The OP asked for advise, and my advice is to stay far away from rustoleum.

MrMark · May 28, 2011

The other thing about rusoleum I have found in the past is that it promotes rust! It is well named!

Zrexxer · May 28, 2011

Kirbot said:
The OP asked for advise, and my advice is to stay far away from rustoleum.

Ahh, more sage advice on the internet from a 15 yr old that has no actual experience with anything except giving advice on the internet.

Kirbot · May 28, 2011

Zrexxer said:
Ahh, more sage advice on the internet from a 15 yr old that has no actual experience with anything except giving advice on the internet.

Not this **** again.
Atleast get my age right for God's sake.

I've restored and can run a 1940s Atlas metal lathe, several other old wood and metal working machines, multiple old metal cased power tools, oh, and I'm about 1/2 way through a ground up restoration of a Jeep Cj7.

Not to mention I actually posted a picture of particular experience with the paint that turned me completely off of it.

Is that enough experience to tell that a certain brand of paint is garbage?

Zrexxer · May 28, 2011

Kirbot said:
Is that enough experience to tell that a certain brand of paint is garbage?

No, that's evidence that you don't have enough experience to know anything about painting.

Kirbot · May 28, 2011

Zrexxer said:
No, that's evidence that you don't have enough experience to know anything about painting.

I know enough to say that cutting fluid, transmission fluid, and orange de-greaser turn rustoleum into goo.

Don't believe me? Go try it for yourself.

Bull · May 28, 2011

Zrexxer said:
Ahh, more sage advice on the internet from a 15 yr old that has no actual experience with anything except giving advice on the internet.

WTH? Why do you feel the need to talk to another member this way?

Not going to go anywhere good.

ZRX61 · May 29, 2011

Kirbot said:
And thats OK.
Nobody is going to try and force you to use a decent paint.

I use decent paint when it's needed, if i decide to paint any of my 3 SouthBends they will be getting Imron, & not the new ****, the original stuff.

Catalyze · May 29, 2011

ZRX61 - I love you like a Union Brother so be Real Careful with Imron....I love the results of Imron....I had a Datsun PU painted in it and it withstood Wyoming weather for 8 years until I moved to NM....if I remember correctly Imron is real nasty stuff to painters..

I recently helped a friend restore a MF tractor and we had good luck with Van Sickle paints....I don't know if they would have a shade that would approximate anything Wilton might use....they seem to hold up to hydraulic oil spills (not my fault....honest)
Craig

ZRX61 · May 29, 2011

Catalyze said:
ZRX61 - I love you like a Union Brother so be Real Careful with Imron....I love the results of Imron....I had a Datsun PU painted in it and it withstood Wyoming weather for 8 years until I moved to NM....if I remember correctly Imron is real nasty stuff to painters..
Craig

I have a full paint suit & an SAS forced air full face respirator etc

The old stuff isn't allowed to be sold in California these days... unless it's for aviation

wilton vise paint?

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