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wilton vise paint?

Lomotil

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WTH? Why do you feel the need to talk to another member this way?

Not going to go anywhere good.

Yea? Well your momma so... Nah, I'm just kidding.

I thought that post was far beyond rude, too. It made me wonder if the two had some unresolved issue in the past (or if the 'aggressor' works for Rustoleum.)
 
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Lomotil

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****. Threw me off on why I originally wanted to view this topic...

I just bought a Wilton "Shop King" vise from Rickster on this site (great guy, perfect transaction, BTW,) and it appears that the red paint on it is original... Is this the case? Those hammered finishes posted earlier do look nice, by the way.
 

kams1973

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I usually "******" the vise parts (sort of throwing a toaster into soapy water) until the breakers blow, then wire wheel until I lose all feelings in my hands, then I wipe it all down with lacquer thinner while my hands turn white and dry crack. At that point the wind has picked up above 20 mph so that is my cue to start painting. After that it's time for the "meds" and it all seems fine.
Craig

The story of most of my projects in a nutshell. :lol_hitti
 
OP
J

Joelfke

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I didn't mean to start you guys into an argument....i just was wondering what paint works well on a vise.... :(
 

SpeedCoach

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I used silver Hammertone on mine. It's ok...I've worn a bit off in a couple of spots...but extra in a can made it all better again.

DSC_0001-1.jpg
 

spongerich

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Monroe, NY
Amazon has the Rustoleum Verde Green... it ends up being $12/can though.

I've found that baking the vise overnight at 225-250, then 4-5 more hours at about 150 seems to make the paint a lot harder and less prone to chipping.
 

autopts

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Fellas, we talk about Verde Green as being the most popular color that comes closest to the original on Wilton vises 1975 and newer. Here are two bases, one original, and one painted. Honestly, I like a vise unpainted with a mist of PB Blaster or similiar rust preventative rubbed into it.
WiltonBases.jpg
 
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scooby074

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. It also takes forever to dry - like months.

Cant be talking about the same paint. The Rustoleum Hammertone is VERY runny with a ton of solvent. It flashes quite fast and goes on very thin.

And ive never had an issue with chipping. Its a vise not a showpiece and i use it as such.

Maybe its improper surface prep on your part as ive had the exact opposite experience. :lol_hitti
 

Kirbot

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Cant be talking about the same paint. The Rustoleum Hammertone is VERY runny with a ton of solvent. It flashes quite fast and goes on very thin.

And ive never had an issue with chipping. Its a vise not a showpiece and i use it as such.

Maybe its improper surface prep on your part as ive had the exact opposite experience. :lol_hitti

The standard rustoleum takes months to dry, not the hammered finish.

And yes it does take months to dry if you want it to actually cure properly.
It stays very soft for a LONG time.

And as far as chipping, I'm talking more about the hammered finish in the quart cans than the spray cans. It goes on very thick, and chips very easily.
Though I've never been very impressed with the spray cans either. It looks nice, but it's far less durable than the alternatives.
 
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MrMark

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Cant be talking about the same paint. The Rustoleum Hammertone is VERY runny with a ton of solvent. It flashes quite fast and goes on very thin.

And ive never had an issue with chipping. Its a vise not a showpiece and i use it as such.

Maybe its improper surface prep on your part as ive had the exact opposite experience. :lol_hitti

Then why paint it if you are so unconcerned? Typical comments.

Yes, I have no clue what I am doing.
 

autopts

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Cant be talking about the same paint. The Rustoleum Hammertone is VERY runny with a ton of solvent. It flashes quite fast and goes on very thin.


I haven't had as of yet any problems with the Hammered in the rattle can. I don't keep these cans in my garage away from the intense heat and cold and they are kept in my basement. Not that it would matter anyawys.
 

Catalyze

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autopts - anything else of interest in your basement besides your paint? Maybe a photo or two so that I might know where to look if I ever come back up your way.....

Kirbot - I am agreeing with you on basic Rustoleum enamel in a spray can. I usually use the Hammered or High Performance Rustoleum spray products and really like the fact that I can highlight lettering the next day after painting. However, I just primered a large Reed 3C yesterday and went to grab my usual spray can....disaster...all I had was normal enamel. The can says almost 9 hours to dry to handle. I am giving it probably a week before lettering begins. It's not that big a problem since it isn't going into shop service anytime soon....but it's just an observation of 2 different paint types by one maker.
Craig
 

autopts

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autopts - anything else of interest in your basement besides your paint? Maybe a photo or two so that I might know where to look if I ever come back up your way.....

They are all in my garage what few I have left. You've taken anything of value around here.
 

PetesPonies

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Jan 1, 2010
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Makes me laugh when I see people argue over the "best" spray can paint. Unless it is one of the newer expensive custom cans where the hardner is ready to be mixed as it is sprayed . . .there isn't much difference. a 1K product is going to be lifted by thinners and certain cutting fluids etc. If you want to avoid that, you need a 2K product.
 
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