innkeeper
Well-known member
the ceiling fan I got a Lowes $32.00 and it is 36" with a light..that will help and mine is in winter mode..
Installation of Dayton G73 Heater with Cutoff Switch and Thermostat
- Thread starter Zane
- Start date
Hi: Nice job. great tech info.
I've been trying to find a Dayton G73 heater to install in my two car insulated garage. I see G73 heaters made by other manufacturers, but not by Dayton.
I have read one or more negative feedbacks about non-Dayton units.
Anyone know where I might be able to get the Dayton G73?
Or are the other available units acceptable to the readers on here?
Thanks, Tom
trbomax
Well-known member
WW Grainger distributes them.
Coloradotrailrider
Active member
Hi, I bought the Farenheat FUH54 last year from Blains Farm and Fleet. The heater is made by the company called Marley. Marley also manufactures the Dayton branded heater 3UG73. The two heaters are not only indentical but in fact are the same heater, same manufacturer just a different decal.
A booklet came with my heater that had the parts replacement list in it. I checked the part numbers with the list for the Dayton 3UG73 on the Grainger web site, they are the same part numbers for every part. The Farenheat is not a clone but in fact the same heater for a fraction of the price.
Just thought I'd share.
A booklet came with my heater that had the parts replacement list in it. I checked the part numbers with the list for the Dayton 3UG73 on the Grainger web site, they are the same part numbers for every part. The Farenheat is not a clone but in fact the same heater for a fraction of the price.
Just thought I'd share.
Hi: Thanks. I ordered the unit and also a Marley Thermostat from Home Depot. Got a good price and free delivery. I wired my garage for it as shown by Zane. I used 10/3 cable so I wired it slightly different. Hope I didn't mess it up. I will try to attach Zanes drawing as I modified it. If you see any problem, please let me know.
I also want to take this opportunity to give thanks to Zane and others who provided extremely helpful information. Tom
Me again.
I don't see my attachment in the previous comment. I'll try again.
Tom
PS:
My final drawing list "Red wire #10" in lower left above the White wire. Will provide it if someone wants it. Assuming that my version is correct
Attachments
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Coloradotrailrider
Active member
Hey tom_day73 your going to love that heater this winter. Thats a good price from Home Depot. They must have just started carrying the Fahrenheit, I hadn't seen it on line with them before.
I wired mine slightly different. I still use the built in thermostat in the unit. Originally I had both legs of my 240v going through the double pole 30 amp switch on the wall. I got tired of getting my ladder out to turn the thermostat all the way down and wait for the heater to finish it's cool down before turning the switch off.
I ran both legs of 240v directly to the heaters L1 and L2 terminal board. I then ran two more runs of 10 gauge wire back down to my 30amp wall switch. I hooked up one of the #10 wires to L1 in the heater and the other to the internal thermostat, disconnecting the thermostat from the L1 board in the heater. Now I am just using one side of my double pole wall switch.
Now when I turn my wall switch on the heater kicks on and heats as usual. When I am finished using the heater I just flip the switch off and the heater fan continues to run until the built in temp switch in the heater kills the fan. I will keep the thermostat at the same temp at all times, as I will not keep my garage heated all the time.
Obviously there are many different ways to wire them up, just depends on what you prefer. Your wiring looks great, should work well.
I wired mine slightly different. I still use the built in thermostat in the unit. Originally I had both legs of my 240v going through the double pole 30 amp switch on the wall. I got tired of getting my ladder out to turn the thermostat all the way down and wait for the heater to finish it's cool down before turning the switch off.
I ran both legs of 240v directly to the heaters L1 and L2 terminal board. I then ran two more runs of 10 gauge wire back down to my 30amp wall switch. I hooked up one of the #10 wires to L1 in the heater and the other to the internal thermostat, disconnecting the thermostat from the L1 board in the heater. Now I am just using one side of my double pole wall switch.
Now when I turn my wall switch on the heater kicks on and heats as usual. When I am finished using the heater I just flip the switch off and the heater fan continues to run until the built in temp switch in the heater kills the fan. I will keep the thermostat at the same temp at all times, as I will not keep my garage heated all the time.
Obviously there are many different ways to wire them up, just depends on what you prefer. Your wiring looks great, should work well.
Coloradotrailrider
I'm not an electrician so I'm not sure exactly what you have done. So, I can't comment. I basically copied what others have posted. If I got it right we can thank them.
With my switch on, the system runs and heaters are controlled by the thermostat that I added only. The fan operates and is controlled by its own fan.
When I do not want heat I turn off the switch and all power is removed from the fan and heaters.
If my memory serves me right, I think that is how Zane and others have done it.
Thanks for your comment.
Tom
I'm not an electrician so I'm not sure exactly what you have done. So, I can't comment. I basically copied what others have posted. If I got it right we can thank them.
With my switch on, the system runs and heaters are controlled by the thermostat that I added only. The fan operates and is controlled by its own fan.
When I do not want heat I turn off the switch and all power is removed from the fan and heaters.
If my memory serves me right, I think that is how Zane and others have done it.
Thanks for your comment.
Tom
boatbutter
New member
Outstanding thread! Thank you very much. I want to do the exact same setup.! I'm a novice and appreciate the pictures. Thanks again.
cagullett1
Well-known member
Hey tom_day73 your going to love that heater this winter. Thats a good price from Home Depot. They must have just started carrying the Fahrenheit, I hadn't seen it on line with them before.
I wired mine slightly different. I still use the built in thermostat in the unit. Originally I had both legs of my 240v going through the double pole 30 amp switch on the wall. I got tired of getting my ladder out to turn the thermostat all the way down and wait for the heater to finish it's cool down before turning the switch off.
I ran both legs of 240v directly to the heaters L1 and L2 terminal board. I then ran two more runs of 10 gauge wire back down to my 30amp wall switch. I hooked up one of the #10 wires to L1 in the heater and the other to the internal thermostat, disconnecting the thermostat from the L1 board in the heater. Now I am just using one side of my double pole wall switch.
Now when I turn my wall switch on the heater kicks on and heats as usual. When I am finished using the heater I just flip the switch off and the heater fan continues to run until the built in temp switch in the heater kills the fan. I will keep the thermostat at the same temp at all times, as I will not keep my garage heated all the time.
Obviously there are many different ways to wire them up, just depends on what you prefer. Your wiring looks great, should work well.
I know I'm resurrecting an old thread, but I'm doing this install soon and want to make sure I understand what you are saying. Your only switch is between the L1 board and the internal thermostat? Flipping that switch on kicks everything on like normal, but when you turn it off, it doesn't turn off the fan function that allows the unit to cool down? I want to make sure I wire a switch does not affect the fan function in the unit.
bottom feeder
Well-known member
Cagullett1,
Your assessment of Coloradotrailrider's modification is correct. You are basically placing a switch between the thermostat and the thermostat's connection on the L1 board. When the switch is "off", the heater thinks that the thermostat has cut the power to the heating unit, but since you haven't changed any other wiring the fan still has full power and will continue to run until the heating unit has cooled down. If you use some clever wiring you don't even need to cut any wires inside the unit, and can rewire it to factory specs later on if you so desire.
I have modified my own Fahrenheat FUH54 based on Coloradotrailrider's idea and it works well. Just keep in mind that even though the wall switch is "off" there is still power to the heater, so don't ever open the heater's wiring access panel without turning off the 240V breaker in your main electrical panel.
Your assessment of Coloradotrailrider's modification is correct. You are basically placing a switch between the thermostat and the thermostat's connection on the L1 board. When the switch is "off", the heater thinks that the thermostat has cut the power to the heating unit, but since you haven't changed any other wiring the fan still has full power and will continue to run until the heating unit has cooled down. If you use some clever wiring you don't even need to cut any wires inside the unit, and can rewire it to factory specs later on if you so desire.
I have modified my own Fahrenheat FUH54 based on Coloradotrailrider's idea and it works well. Just keep in mind that even though the wall switch is "off" there is still power to the heater, so don't ever open the heater's wiring access panel without turning off the 240V breaker in your main electrical panel.
cagullett1
Well-known member
Would you mind elaborating how to go about cleverly wiring it in order to avoid cutting any wires? Just curious, but would this same concept work if I put the switch on the other side of the thermostat? Either way, I plan to add the switch like Coloradotrailrider mentioned, and also adding a remote thermostat while I'm at it.
Is there any other additional wiring that could be done to make this heater even better?
Is there any other additional wiring that could be done to make this heater even better?
bottom feeder
Well-known member
The heater uses spade connectors for much of the wiring, which can be disconnected rather than cut.
jonathan75
Well-known member
I was just looking at your heater and wanted to compare the specs with the one I got and now it is sold out. But Northern Tool did sell one that has a different look. But there is something nice about the classic box heater look but there are some newer styles out there also.
Great work on your install.
Here is the one I put in. About the same specs for max heat settings. Click on the Thread link in the upper right corner after clicking the link to see the install posts if interested.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3599639&postcount=663
Great work on your install.
Here is the one I put in. About the same specs for max heat settings. Click on the Thread link in the upper right corner after clicking the link to see the install posts if interested.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3599639&postcount=663
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royalton10
Well-known member
Well two weeks ago my Dayton G73 heater quit working. Worked fine the previous night, the next night nothing.
I opened up the bottom access panel. The wire, L1 on the thermostat had burned off and was disconnected. I then ordered a new thermostat from Grainger and installed it last week.
Still nothing, no fan motor, no popping of element heating up. I then disconnected thermostat and put back in the original wires to thermostat and connected them together. Still nothing happened.
I know I need to do some more testing. Any ideas what terminals on the wiring diagram to test? I also have a burned, black spot about the size of a quarter near the thermostat location. Makes me wonder if something got fried and the heater will not be able to be be fixed.
Any ideas what to do now?
I opened up the bottom access panel. The wire, L1 on the thermostat had burned off and was disconnected. I then ordered a new thermostat from Grainger and installed it last week.
Still nothing, no fan motor, no popping of element heating up. I then disconnected thermostat and put back in the original wires to thermostat and connected them together. Still nothing happened.
I know I need to do some more testing. Any ideas what terminals on the wiring diagram to test? I also have a burned, black spot about the size of a quarter near the thermostat location. Makes me wonder if something got fried and the heater will not be able to be be fixed.
Any ideas what to do now?
jonathan75
Well-known member
Read this thread I found for you. Looks like you are not alone in this issue. Is your thermostat wires red or black? Seems that comes up a lot as red version having the issue. You may still have a open or wire with problem but read this thread to get a better idea.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?154545-Dayton-Heater-Check-the-Thermostat-Wiring
royalton10
Well-known member
Originial thermostat wires were red. The new thermostat wires are black. The tech guy at Grainger said there were issues with the old thermostat and that the new one is better.
jonathan75
Well-known member
Based on the thread even the black wire version is having problems. But you may want to do some more checks and double check your connections. Check if any wires are very stiff, they could be burned inside and need to be replaced. With the power off do some continuity checks with your meter.
royalton10
Well-known member
Jonathan75..
Thanks for the posts and additional site to review. I read through the balance of the posts at that site and did not find anything more. But since I see some still having issues with the new black wired thermostat, I think it best to get the heater thermostat out of their entirely.
I already had a remote thermostat on the wall. Hopefully I can figure out the issue and then just eliminate the heater thermostat entirely. Then I can send it back to Grainger to get some money back.
I had bought the heater from www.greenhousemegastore.com but then it was shipped from Grainger. I bought it back in 2009. I am going to call greenhouse... and quiz them some more.
Thanks again for your help!!
Thanks for the posts and additional site to review. I read through the balance of the posts at that site and did not find anything more. But since I see some still having issues with the new black wired thermostat, I think it best to get the heater thermostat out of their entirely.
I already had a remote thermostat on the wall. Hopefully I can figure out the issue and then just eliminate the heater thermostat entirely. Then I can send it back to Grainger to get some money back.
I had bought the heater from www.greenhousemegastore.com but then it was shipped from Grainger. I bought it back in 2009. I am going to call greenhouse... and quiz them some more.
Thanks again for your help!!
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jonathan75
Well-known member
Let us know what you find. I hope you get it working soon.
royalton10
Well-known member
Update today.
Heater is now working fine. I bypassed thermostat in heater. I also pulled the wall thermostat out. I found the inbound wire to thermostat from the breaker box had pulled loose from the screw. With using 10 guage wire there was no room to mark a loop around the thermostat screw.
I found some spades that would work with 10 guage wire. I put the spades on both wires attached to the thermostat.
Heater now works fine. I will send back the new and updated thermostat from Grainger.
Thanks for all of your help Jonathan75!!
Heater is now working fine. I bypassed thermostat in heater. I also pulled the wall thermostat out. I found the inbound wire to thermostat from the breaker box had pulled loose from the screw. With using 10 guage wire there was no room to mark a loop around the thermostat screw.
I found some spades that would work with 10 guage wire. I put the spades on both wires attached to the thermostat.
Heater now works fine. I will send back the new and updated thermostat from Grainger.
Thanks for all of your help Jonathan75!!
LS6 Tommy
Well-known member
I'm glad you got the heater working right. If the wire from the breaker is solid, you really shouldn't use a "crimp on" spade terminal. Eventually it will loosen up. Those types of connectors are for stranded wire.
Tommy
Tommy
jonathan75
Well-known member
Great job! I am so happy you found the problem. This is the time of year you really need heat!
Tommy is correct. Perhaps you can cut off the plastic outer jacket on the crimp and heat it up real nice with the solder iron and flow some solder inside the connection. That might help keep it on and create a more positive connection. Just make sure you disconnect it first and use a iron with high wattage. Also use rosin core solder with lead in it. Flows so much better.
Even if it is stranded wire it never hurts to solder it.
beartoothweb
Well-known member
I had an almost catastrophe this morning in the shop with my G73 heater, and I wanted to see if anyone else has seen this.
Yesterday, I could smell electrical smell yesterday, but couldn't pin point it (I have a 1200' shop, lots of choices.) I figured it was just some dust on the battery charger or something, so I didn't really try very hard. I should have.
I came out this morning to a cold shop (it's been 20 and 30 below here), and noticed a big (9-10" black streak behind the thermostat.)
I opened it up and it was all melted to hell. The wires inside had totally melted.
That could have been bad, and about $150k worth of cars, parts, and shop. I'm insured, but what a mess.
I opened up the King brand t-stat, and indeed, it's rated to 22A, and I'm using 10g wire as I should have. The wire from the heater to the tstat is only about 7' long.
Is it just possible that it was a defective unit? Since it's been so cold, the heater has been cycling a LOT, so perhaps a defect in combination with extra cycles just heated up the wiring?
I don't suppose there's any way to prevent that, right? I mean, the breaker didn't trip because there was technically no fault on the power side (the one going back to the breaker.)
I don't have (nor do I need) an on/off switch on the wall. In the summer, I just flip the breaker, and the rest of the year (like 7 months), I just use the tstat.
We travel a bit, and the shop is left unattended for a month at a time, in the winter, and I'd hate to see this happen again, or worse, bring the whole shop down.
Any advice for moving forward? I ordered a new T-stat, higher amperage this time, like 25A.
Yesterday, I could smell electrical smell yesterday, but couldn't pin point it (I have a 1200' shop, lots of choices.) I figured it was just some dust on the battery charger or something, so I didn't really try very hard. I should have.
I came out this morning to a cold shop (it's been 20 and 30 below here), and noticed a big (9-10" black streak behind the thermostat.)
I opened it up and it was all melted to hell. The wires inside had totally melted.
That could have been bad, and about $150k worth of cars, parts, and shop. I'm insured, but what a mess.
I opened up the King brand t-stat, and indeed, it's rated to 22A, and I'm using 10g wire as I should have. The wire from the heater to the tstat is only about 7' long.
Is it just possible that it was a defective unit? Since it's been so cold, the heater has been cycling a LOT, so perhaps a defect in combination with extra cycles just heated up the wiring?
I don't suppose there's any way to prevent that, right? I mean, the breaker didn't trip because there was technically no fault on the power side (the one going back to the breaker.)
I don't have (nor do I need) an on/off switch on the wall. In the summer, I just flip the breaker, and the rest of the year (like 7 months), I just use the tstat.
We travel a bit, and the shop is left unattended for a month at a time, in the winter, and I'd hate to see this happen again, or worse, bring the whole shop down.
Any advice for moving forward? I ordered a new T-stat, higher amperage this time, like 25A.
jonathan75
Well-known member
Sounds like it acted like a fuse. Loose connections can cause increased current draw or other problems in the circuit. I would run it and check your current draw to see if it is too high first. But burning thermostats seem to be a common issue. Contact the manufacture and see what they have to say about it. They may ship you a replacement part for free.
formula001
New member
- Joined
- Jan 4, 2014
- Messages
- 3
I know this a an old thread but I just installed the fehrenheat Heater using the method the OP mentioned. I am using the same thermostat from grainger. I have yet to get it all installed. If I am right the thermostat is supposed to have an off setting correct? I don't see it on the unit it self but it does turn way past the 50 degree mark. Can someone tell me if that single pole line voltage does have a off position. Thanks a lot
bottom feeder
Well-known member
Don't know if your thermostat has an "off" setting or not, but if you want to be able to switch the unit off you could wire the heater as described in post#48 and use the built-in thermostat.
Same here, my wall mounted thermostat also just burnt up. Fortunately I was in the garage when it happened. The heater was shuting off before the temp was reached so I went to turn the dial up and heard some crackling from the stat. I immediately shut of the breaker. Opened up the stat and sure enough one of the wires was toast. The stat was 2 years old. You can bet I will be inspecting the new stat on a regular basis.
Monte406SS
Well-known member
Do u guys think it was just a defect in the thermostat? I am about to pull the trigger on a Fahrenheit unit and add the wall mounted thermostat. Would really like a wifi therm so I could have the garage heated before I got home or ready to work in the garage.
37ford4dr
Well-known member
well before reading this thread I was thinking of adding a wall thermostat to my Dayton g73 because I thought my adjusting the temperature on my Dayton g73 with a hockey stick was a bit crude and only to be out done by using the breaker panel to turn it on and off .....but now I am thinking I have used it this way for over 11 years and maybe I will just leave well enough alone. I guess when this heater dies I will look for a replacement one that has a remote low voltage thermostat designed for it.
squatch
Well-known member
I don't mean to hijack, but here is how to wire a G73 with a cheap thermostat and 18g thermostat wire.
Todd.Brock
Well-known member
Squatch- thanks for the info. My heater cycles on: off but doesn't heat up. Tech support said it was most likely the thermostat. I have been waiting to replace it because I need the heat but can't seem to locate a replacement part easily. I'm thinking a regular non line voltage thermostat may be worth a shot.
Abi
Member
Similar to Squatch's diagram, but for my application, there are three important differences:
1. I use a 1-pole contactor. It's preferable to do it this way. That's because L2 controls the fan motor, which has a separate, internal thermostat (this is different from the thermostat that controls the heating element). The fan continues to run after the heating element (controlled by L1) turns off, which cools off the heating element, extending its lifespan. If you break power to L2 at the same time as L1, then the fan will shut off immediately and your heater may wear out prematurely.
2. I use a 240V transformer (vs. 120V). That way, I don't need a separate power supply for my transformer. I just run it off the same circuit as the heater.
3. I use the common terminal in my thermostat. That way I don't have to use batteries in the thermostat.
Cheers,
Abi
1. I use a 1-pole contactor. It's preferable to do it this way. That's because L2 controls the fan motor, which has a separate, internal thermostat (this is different from the thermostat that controls the heating element). The fan continues to run after the heating element (controlled by L1) turns off, which cools off the heating element, extending its lifespan. If you break power to L2 at the same time as L1, then the fan will shut off immediately and your heater may wear out prematurely.
2. I use a 240V transformer (vs. 120V). That way, I don't need a separate power supply for my transformer. I just run it off the same circuit as the heater.
3. I use the common terminal in my thermostat. That way I don't have to use batteries in the thermostat.
Cheers,
Abi
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larry4406
Well-known member
Similar to Squatch's diagram, but for my application, there are two important differences:
1. I use the common terminal in my thermostat. That way I don't have to use batteries in the thermostat.
2. I use a 1-pole contactor. It's preferable to do it this way. That's because L2 controls the fan motor, which has a separate, internal thermostat (this is different from the thermostat that controls the heating element). The fan continues to run after the heating element (controlled by L1) turns off, which cools off the heating element, extending its lifespan. If you break power to L2 at the same time as L1, then the fan will shut off immediately and your heater may wear out prematurely.
Cheers,
Abi
Abi - thanks for the schematic. Any pictures of your wiring?
Abi
Member
This is from a prior install (my detached garage). Here I did use a 2-pole contactor (C230A). The transformer is a different brand than in my wiring diagram, but connected the same way.
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Abi
Member
Here's a pre-installation picture of the box I'm installing in my main garage. I'll upload another picture after it's installed, but it will look substantially the same as the previous picture I posted.
Note the black and red wires with wire nuts on them. They are for use with 120V and 208V input power, respectively. Also note, the other red wire is not yet connected, pending installation.
Note the black and red wires with wire nuts on them. They are for use with 120V and 208V input power, respectively. Also note, the other red wire is not yet connected, pending installation.
Abi
Member
As promised, here is the wiring after installation.
The junction box containing the contactor, the transformer, 10/2 in (bottom-right) from circuit breaker, 10/3 out to heater (bottom-left), and 18/3 to thermostat (bottom-center).
And the heater itself. [Note, the unit's thermostat is disconnected, and the switched L1 (red wire) is simply attached at the Wattage Change Terminal Board.]
The junction box containing the contactor, the transformer, 10/2 in (bottom-right) from circuit breaker, 10/3 out to heater (bottom-left), and 18/3 to thermostat (bottom-center).
And the heater itself. [Note, the unit's thermostat is disconnected, and the switched L1 (red wire) is simply attached at the Wattage Change Terminal Board.]
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Falcon67
Well-known member
Your image links are broken or other.