Craftsman Drill Press

GirlnAgarage · Mar 14, 2014

FrankLee said:
Glad you got it figured out.

If you can swing it, I highly recommend an adjustable belt. They run very nicely.... quiet and they go around that smallest pulley very smoothly. If you get the 5 footer from HF, you'll have enough for both belts and a few inches extra.
http://www.jasonindustrial.com/pdf/Accu-Link-Belting-Bulletin2012-3_1.pdf

Otherwise, I recommend belts that are notched on the inside so it can easily flex around the small pulleys.

Use a wrench on the flats of the pulley shaft to tighten the belt.

Thanks for the tips on the belt and shedding light on it. I hadn't thought about it to get my answer but I did ask 'why?' to the notched belt vs solid.

I was contemplating getting the saw blade sharpener from HF. Ordering a belt too might seal the deal.

Outlawmws · Mar 14, 2014

on the linked belts!

nine4gmc · Mar 14, 2014

Good stuff Frank!!

FrankLee · Mar 15, 2014

Table Counterweight

My table counterweight:

2716

Outlawmws · Mar 15, 2014

Frank, if there is space, have you considered slipping some PVC pipe on the hex, so it's not a "bell"?

alinc100 · Mar 15, 2014

FrankLee said:
Next, this drill press has a chipped feed handle, so I experimented with a stubby screwdriver handle as a replacement. Two more to go.

I like the stubby screwdriver handle. If you'd like wooden handles I'd bet I could turn a set using the existing as a pattern. Might not be exact but would be a fun project .

FrankLee · Mar 15, 2014

Outlawmws said:
Frank, if there is space, have you considered slipping some PVC pipe on the hex, so it's not a "bell"?

I'm still thinking about options for that. The hex stock is 1-7/8" across the flats and 2.16" across the corners. PVC will not work. I may try to file a slot around the corners at each end for O-rings or maybe just slip a short piece of bicycle inner tube over the ends.

hofferwood · Mar 15, 2014

Nice work Franklee :thumbup:

Good choice on the belts. I used those on this Shopmaster I did a few years ago, homemade speed reducer.

Side note,

Does this look familiar??

That was my brother you were talking to---small world huh?

Back on topic
Those belts don't have a memory, run true in 0* weather :thumbup:

Again nice work.

torqueman2002 · Mar 15, 2014

FrankLee said:
Next, this drill press has a chipped feed handle, so I experimented with a stubby screwdriver handle as a replacement. Two more to go.

Nice repurpose!

FrankLee · Mar 16, 2014

hofferwood said:
Side note,

Does this look familiar??

That was my brother you were talking to---small world huh?

LOL! Yes, yes it is!

FrankLee · Mar 16, 2014

torqueman2002 said:
Nice repurpose!

Thanks... but I learned the hard way that I need a DP vise. I had another stubby handle that I ruined. A sharp drill bit has a mind of it's own on the soft plastic. LOL!

torqueman2002 · Mar 16, 2014

FrankLee said:
Thanks... but I learned the hard way that I need a DP vise. I had another stubby handle that I ruined. A sharp drill bit has a mind of it's own on the soft plastic. LOL!

This will go nicely with the CM DP. I/M me.

uniballer · Mar 23, 2014

FrankLee said:
I thought about getting it brazed, but don't have a good source for that.

My short term plan so far, is to stack three nuts on each bolt on the underside of the base. This will lift the motor base slightly off the mount to eliminate the pressure on feet of the base. Longer term, I'm looking for another motor.

My next step is to get the columns cleaned up. There have been lots of good ideas. I just need to make and assemble the parts and pieces to spin the columns. I have two to clean.

If you ever get rid of it, I would like the switch or whole motor?

Parabellum · Mar 23, 2014

torqueman2002 said:
This will go nicely with the CM DP. I/M me.

That is very nice :drool:

TMcCay · Mar 24, 2014

Very nice work keeping some old Craftsman tools alive and working Frank! Keep up the good work.

FrankLee · Mar 24, 2014

Nice Vise!, Chuck Speed Calculator

Chuck Speed Calculator:

Example:
1. Divide the diameter of the driving (or motor) pulley step by the corresponding step size of the pulley mounted on the drill press spindle:
2 ÷ 5 = 0.4
3 ÷ 4 = 0.75
4 ÷ 3 = 1.33
5 ÷ 2 = 2.5

2. Then, multiply the motor speed by the results of the above calculation to get the approximate spindle speed at each pulley step:
1725 x 0.4 = 690 rpm
1725 x 0.75 = 1293.75 rpm
1725 x 1.33 = 2294.25 rpm
1725 x 2.5 = 4312.5 rpm

For Craftsman 80, 100, 150 and Emerson Gen2:

3/24/2014

Parabellum said:
That is very nice

That vise IS very nice! I've used it several times already. torqueman gave me a great deal and even delivered it! Thanks tm!!

TMcCay said:
Very nice work keeping some old Craftsman tools alive and working Frank! Keep up the good work.

Other progress has been very slow.
I got to play around with the table counterweight some.
I need to clean-up the two newer old columns from posts #16 and #27 and switch them. #27 has some significant pitting and #16 has some built-up, caked-on cutting oil. That will take some effort to clean up. I did some testing of cleaning off the rust and I think an orbital sander will work just fine.

The weather has been too cold to do some of the necessary outside clean-up and degreasing of the large cast pieces.
I did get a new old motor on Saturday and already switched some parts to the motor in post #9.
I also cut and mounted some plywood on two caster bases like in post #13.

I'll take a trip to HF today to get another Accu-Link belt and some Super Lube for re-assembly. Gotta love those 25% off coupons!

3193

FrankLee · Apr 13, 2014

DP#3 Repainted

Progress! I believe the painting is complete.

before:

after:

I found two cool foot switches on craigslist. I'll check one out on this drill press.

3470

Outlawmws · Apr 13, 2014

Looks good Frank!

GirlnAgarage · Apr 17, 2014

I'm killing time waiting for the new governor side springs to arrive so I can close up my motor and install. Threw on the what-I-think-is-29"-belt on the spindle-to-ms pulley. (Not certain what points to measure from). First glance and spinning it by hand, I like the Accu-link belt. Very smooth. Even got it pointed the right way.

I'm eager to get this thing finished already. Hopefully my motor works or I'll have a hand drill with extra slow speed range

Frank thanks for the tip on the belt :thumbup:

356vintage · Apr 21, 2014

Great information on this thread!
Thank you

nine4gmc · Apr 21, 2014

GirlnAgarage said:
I'm killing time waiting for the new governor side springs to arrive so I can close up my motor and install. Threw on the what-I-think-is-29"-belt on the spindle-to-ms pulley. (Not certain what points to measure from). First glance and spinning it by hand, I like the Accu-link belt. Very smooth. Even got it pointed the right way.

I'm eager to get this thing finished already. Hopefully my motor works or I'll have a hand drill with extra slow speed range

Frank thanks for the tip on the belt

Belt size is determined by length, pick a marked spot on the belt, like the brand name, then measure how long it is from that mark, all the way around to the beginning. :beer:

jakemac · Apr 21, 2014

I use an extension cord around the pulleys to measure what size belt I need. I use one that sits nicely in the grooves of the pulley, over lap (snugly), mark a line on both cords, unwrap, and then measure between the lines. Voilà !!.

FrankLee · Apr 27, 2014

Each link in the AccuLink belt is .875". I have 32 links (28") around the quill pulley and 31 links (27.125") around the motor pulley.
EDIT 2/16/2015:
I installed that AccuLink belt before I realized that the bottom step of the spindle pulley was removed. The dimensions above would be incorrect on a standard machine.

I later replaced the spindle pulley and linked belts on this machine with cogged belts of the proper dimensions. I reused the link belt on the planer listed below.

FrankLee · Apr 27, 2014

DP#3 Progress

Getting closer on dp#3.

I need to install the motor and belt, install the feed stop, make one more knob, figure out what to do with the headband, tweak the table counterweight, etc, etc, etc.

3813

GirlnAgarage · Apr 29, 2014

Thanks for the numbers Frank.
Just checked mine, I have 34(spindle) and 32(motor) links on my two belts. I have three links left over from the 5' section I originally purchased. I'll adjust though. Hasn't been run so I expect the belt will break in. The old paper state a 1/4" deflection is about right for tension. So, I guess it isn't too tight a tolerance. "Not too tight and not too loose" seems like the gist of it lol

Good work on your DP. On the headband, if you want I can pull mine off and trace up a template for you and mail it off. You can use it to fab up a piece from sheet. Let me know, I can get it out this week.

FrankLee · May 5, 2014

DP#4, I'm addicted

GirlnAgarage said:
On the headband, if you want I can pull mine off and trace up a template for you and mail it off. You can use it to fab up a piece from sheet. Let me know, I can get it out this week.

Thanks for the offer. I have two that are in poor condition, so I can use one of those as a template if need be.

But...

I am sick... I just bought drill press DP#4 only because it has a very nice head-frame band.

4074

nine4gmc · May 5, 2014

Four drill presses, you got issues Frank, join the club :beer:

I have two Delta Rockwell a Craftsman and an Atlas, plus two other newer ones I need to fix and sell...

Outlawmws · May 5, 2014

Hmmm what is this "issues" thing you speak of? :ninja:

Canedy Otto Royal 18
Rockwell 15-017
Craftsman 100
Craftsman 80
1938 Craftsman/Atlas
Electro-Mechano 101W (hi speed 1000-10,000 RPM)

GirlnAgarage · May 6, 2014

Sickos

ETA: Roger that on the head band

Outlawmws · May 6, 2014

Girl, the appropriate response was: :withstupi

GirlnAgarage · May 6, 2014

Outlawmws said:
Girl, the appropriate response was:

True dat

FrankLee · May 8, 2014

Table Counterweight

Outlawmws said:
Frank, if there is space, have you considered slipping some PVC pipe on the hex, so it's not a "bell"?

FrankLee said:
I'm still thinking about options for that. The hex stock is 1-7/8" across the flats and 2.16" across the corners. PVC will not work. I may try to file a slot around the corners at each end for O-rings or maybe just slip a short piece of bicycle inner tube over the ends.

Here's my solution to eliminate the counterweight gong effect. On each end of the counterweight, I attached a disk cut from an HDPE cutting board. A 2-1/2" hole saw was the perfect size for the 2-3/8" ID of the column. HDPE has low abrasion wear and low friction.

.

GirlnAgarage · May 8, 2014

Nice solution :thumbup:

FrankLee · May 8, 2014

DP#3 Getting Close

Head-band cleaned and transplanted, feed stop installed, feed handles completed, counterweight installed. Motor is next.

4423

sonvolt · May 8, 2014

That is looking sweet !!! Nice work !

Outlawmws · May 8, 2014

Very clean solution inn the bell issue Frank!

DP is looking great! on the stop nut, you have the "set screw" on the thread. Will the bolt clear the housing if set onto the flats? if not, maybe a socket head screw? or a nylon screw?

FrankLee · May 8, 2014

103.21820 Jointer

06-17-2014, 07:30 PM:

FrankLee said:
I just bought dp#4. I am sick.

My sickness is worse. I just picked up this Craftsman jointer 103.21820. It is very gummed-up and needs a complete disassembly and cleaning.

07-04-2014 @ 12:09:

The jointer refurb is nearly complete and turned out nicely. New bearings and new knives. The original paint was still very nice, so there was no need to repaint.

5/8/2014

Outlawmws said:
DP is looking great! on the stop nut, you have the "set screw" on the thread. Will the bolt clear the housing if set onto the flats? if not, maybe a socket head screw? or a nylon screw?

Thanks.

The bolt is not ideal, but the head does clear the housing when adjusting the feed stop.
The set screw should ONLY be tightened on the rod threads. If the screw is tightened on the flat, it can scrape the scale when applying feed pressure. I have another rod that is marked-up from improper use. I believe the original lock screw is brass so as to not muck-up the rod threads.

Outlawmws · May 8, 2014

Frank, most of these I see use a double nut, rather than a setscrew - avoids the issue entirely.

jweier111 · May 8, 2014

FrankLee, outstanding work man. I had to jump over here after you mentioned the drill presses in my jointer thread. I was feeling pretty good about my 150 DP restore, but am totally out classed :bowdown:

FrankLee · May 18, 2014

DP#3 Complete, DP#4, DP#5, Band Saw, Jointers, Power Hacksaw, NOS Grinder

06-10-2014:

Replacing the Motor Cord

For the motor cord replacements, I use this 8', 16 gauge w/ground power tool replacement cord from HD.

6/19/2020

I normally drill and tap the base for a grounding screw. Below are a couple examples. Drilling that hole can be a catch-22. A drill press makes it easy unless that's your drill press motor.

Except for some minor tweaking, dp#3 is complete. The foot switch is a very nice option and works great!

dp#1 is set-up for metal at 230 RPM.
dp#3 is set-up for wood at 1280 RPM.

The older Craftsman "100" column is 67" tall, the "150" is 62"

Here's the fleet.

I still have 41" of 1-7/8" hex stock if anyone wants to try a table counterweight.

Parts of dp#4 can be seen in the background. I'm having a difficult time removing the column from the base. I've been spraying with PBlaster for several days.

14138.4698

06-18-2014 @ 05:28:

dp#4 is reassembled with a bench top base and column.
model # 103.24500
Sold it on 6/28.

14169.5072

My next project is this nice old Craftsman power hacksaw I picked up on 7/3... model 108.1502. The previous owner did a very nice job of cleaning and painting... something I normally enjoy doing, but none-the-less, I plan to put this back in service soon.

14185.5223

07-07-2014 @ 07:00:

On Saturday, 7/5, I bought a Craftsman table saw 103.21040 with stand for $20. I need the stand for the hacksaw and gave the table saw to my brother.

Later in the day, I bought this Craftsman 12", 3-wheel band saw, model 103.24300.

Also included with the band saw was a large variety of pulleys, two motors, and four of these mounted ball bearing pillow blocks; all NOS in boxes. I have plans for these.

14189.5257
14197.5320

08-03-2014 @ 14:41

I brought home dp#5 today... I couldn't resist. This one is another Craftsman 100, the same base model as my metal dp#1. It has the Vari-Slo option, a forward/reverse switch, and the tilt table. The switch lever handle is bent and the plastic broken. I think another minor piece of the Vari-Slo is missing too. I still need to investigate that. I'm still not sure how far I'll go on this one.

14215.5465
14228.5565

08-15-2014 @ 15:48

Today's estate sale... block grinder 397.19340. NOSIB! The newspaper wrapping the light shade is dated December 14, 1977!
I paid significantly less than the sticker price.

09-04-2014

A new NOS chuck installed on dp#3. I measured the run-out on dp#3; .0035. I can live with that.
OLD:

NEW:

I assembled parts from dp#1, dp#2, dp#3, dp#4, & dp#5 into the carcass of dp#2.
Sold it on 9/20.

The base, column, and table from dp#5 is my new grinder stand.

No progress on the band saw or the hacksaw stand.

14249.5759
14255.5822

09-13-2014

The band saw is back together and listed for sale on craigslist.

09-18-2014

Another jointer project I picked up on 9/16 for $10... model 103.23340

14261.5874
14271.5992

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