VISE REPAIR 101 all vise repairs, lubricants, sources for parts and the tricks to fix

83glt · Sep 11, 2014

These are all great ideas. There is about 2/3 of the dovetail still in place. Only the back portion has broken off. I'll have to post some more pics.

The hole for the pin is situated very close to the center hole for the swivel base nut, so I'm leary of trying to do anything to enlarge or thread the pin hole. Is there supposed to be no play in the main nut whatsoever? What about my original plan of just driving a wedge into the space?

drivesitfar · Sep 12, 2014

83: sure a wedge might be able to work, but how will it stay in place? a tac weld to the longer pin or ?? i'm sure you will find a good solution you are able to do yourself, but if you have a machinist close by to make you a new pin with a sort of big top hat on it to snug up against your vise nut that might work great. Jake's idea might work, but i'm not sure how you would drive the pin in without changing the bend.

at least you have a vise nut with a working screw i have 3 or 4 nice old 100 ish pound vises that are completely missing their vise nuts. i'll have to see which ones i want to make into donor vises or the one i'm restoring one day.

Fretters · Sep 12, 2014

83glt said:
These are all great ideas. There is about 2/3 of the dovetail still in place. Only the back portion has broken off. I'll have to post some more pics.

The dovetail is only a locator and to hold the nut steady. I honestly wouldn't worry too much about that. Most pressure on the nut is pulling it forwards.

The hole for the pin is situated very close to the center hole for the swivel base nut, so I'm leary of trying to do anything to enlarge or thread the pin hole. Is there supposed to be no play in the main nut whatsoever? What about my original plan of just driving a wedge into the space?

You don't need to touch the hole, merely enlarge the head of the pin somehow. Various methods have been suggested. There's no real pressure on that pin, but a wedge would work loose over time.

drivesitfar · Sep 12, 2014

Fretters: i love talking about ways to make steel shine and not rust so i'm moving our conversation about Boiled linseed oil over here from the Vise thread since you seem to know so much about the subject. here is the last posting i copied and pasted to here from there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by drivesitfar View Post
Many have said regular linseed oil is a sticky mess hence the boiled.

In all honesty, it's not, if done correctly, (although I seem to be the only one willing to experiment for the sake of purity ). The key to using raw is to thin it suitably with a good solvent, hence the gum, (pure), turpentine. I've used it on multiple items, and I'd bank that most would be hard pushed to notice any difference at all to boiled.

All (and Fretters): any of you that didn't see the conversation prior to this posting just check out the vise thread yesterday and quite a bit was discussed. we also discussed other processes such as bluing like they do for guns and several others. i do like the raw steel looking vises I've seen better than painted ones and probably because i grew up around loggers that wore all the paint of theirs and had 50 gallon barrels of grease to keep them working so they would never sit around rusting.

so what would be the advantage to using regular linseed oil instead of boiled version if your thinning the regular kind produces something like the boiled? i know VA posted a Wikipedia link that says Linseed oil is made from flax so would the boiled version have less of a shelf life than the thinned down version? :dunno:

by the way the little i read about linseed oil and maybe it might be good to put in your diet as well as on your vises. :bounce:

JeremyBurke · Sep 12, 2014

The discussion Drives is referencing begins here.

A few posts earlier he references deburring wheels on a grinder. I recommend this as a way to shine up steel. I have used and recommend this one.

The price listed is for 4 and so we would be best served to do a group buy. If people are interested in this option just drop me a PM and we can set something up. Buying them individually nearly doubles the price.

For reference I used this wheel and and nothing else to turn the shiny bits on this vise from this....

To this...

Fretters · Sep 12, 2014

drivesitfar said:
Fretters: i love talking about ways to make steel shine and not rust so i'm moving our conversation about Boiled linseed oil over here from the Vise thread since you seem to know so much about the subject. here is the last posting i copied and pasted to here from there.

It's not a case of being knowledgable, but rather the fact that I'm one of those weird types who is quite drawn to experimenting, (and risking the occasional failures, setbacks and small disasters which are part and parcel of that process

), to find out how things behave under certain conditions. Some might just call it masochism.

so what would be the advantage to using regular linseed oil instead of boiled version if your thinning the regular kind produces something like the boiled?

Control of the liquids behaviour would be the main answer to that. The secondary reason is that if I want to add driers to the liquid to aid curing, that's something I can do myself. That's not an option with boiled, as they're already in there, by all acounts. From the fragmented information regarding linseed oil, it appears that the boiled is literally boiled to thicken it, (in similar vein to caramelising sugar), and then solvent is added to thin it back out, then driers are added to hasten the drying. Using raw, you have more control over how it behaves. You can use solvent and/or driers if desired, but you can also keep it raw when adding it to something, (one prime example of use in this context would be paint), to retain a certain amount of fluidity, so that the coating would creep, if damaged.

Regarding shelf life, I would actually guess that the boiled would have a longer shelf life, due to the driers. Those should, theoretically, discourage bacterial growth, which is where raw potentially could suffer, (though I've never actually witnessed that happening myself), if being stored long term. Both raw and boiled would obviously cure eventually if not kept well sealed too. With regards the minute prospect of bacterial growth, that was also one of the reasons, though not the primary one, for my using gum turpentine in the mix. It's a natural antibacterial.

jakemac · Sep 12, 2014

Concerning shelf life, I can attest that a sealed can/bottle will last for quite some time.

This is a bottle that I filled with boiled linseed oil almost 15yrs ago. I swear that under all that dirt and dried oil that it's still almost full and hasn't thickened. I don't use the oil very often anymore. The cork can be a b**ch to get out because of the dried overspill from the oil. It does create a good seal though.

If it was in a can, it may not have lasted as long. The caps on the cans don't seal as well after you open them the first time.

Fretters · Sep 12, 2014

jakemac said:
If it was in a can, it may not have lasted as long. The caps on the cans don't seal as well after you open them the first time.

That's the reason I tend to decant most stuff, especially paint, into glass vinegar bottles when I first open the original container. The glass bottles seem to seal better than owt else I've tried. The metal screw on type lids on glass jars are usually atrociously bad for sealing too. It's not easy trying to find good, airtight containers. Of all the things I've tried, the vinegar bottle is the only one I still use consistently.

I'd love to build up a collection of cork seal ones like that one you have though. They just look the business, as well as being functional.

va.grouseman · Sep 12, 2014

Previously posted by drivesitfar.

by the way the little i read about linseed oil and maybe it might be good to put in your diet as well as on your vises.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Drivesit,---ironically I put a heaping tablespoon of powdered flax seed in my coffee every morning.---I know that don't sound very good, but now coffee don't taste good any other way.
And from what else I read, I think I'm going to add a piece of linoleum jerky to the breakfast menu.

drivesitfar · Sep 13, 2014

VA: what is linoleum jerky? good on you for putting flax in your coffee.

Jake: that bottle isn't very big or is it? so how is you know so much about linseed oil and you haven't used it for years?

Fretters: love to learn from your experimenting and as you keep tweaking i'll keep paying attention and learning from your successes and failures.

ALL: some of you haven't seen the Pacific NW in it's glory and we had another day of 80 degrees with a perfect sunset today. sorry about not having my new fence or deck finished in the picture or the trees trimmed and here are a couple pictures from my back door. i'm posting another couple pictures of what my view looked like 6 years ago when i get the neighbor's trees were trimmed. also my grand dog doing his thing chasing what ever i throw at him when we drive down to the beach for a walk.

jakemac · Sep 13, 2014

drivesitfar said:
Jake: that bottle isn't very big or is it?

It's fairly small so it would travel well. I had several bottles I would use to store my oil.

so how is you know so much about linseed oil and you haven't used it for years?

Well, once upon a time ................ :lol:

The truth is, that in the early 90's 'til just before 9-11, I used to do a bit of 17th century re-enacting in my spare time. Puritans & Pilgrims mostly, and some Roundheads & Cavaliers (for you English bunch). I also did blacksmithing demo's for the public (mostly just metal bending, I wasn't making art). The linseed oil was how I would finish the metal and keep my tools from rusting. Also, when reenacting early time periods, you end up making most (if not all) of your own gear (I WILL NEVER MAKE ANOTHER PAIR OF SHOES !!!!!!

EVER !) Linseed oil was also used on my wood projects to give them a more authentic finish.

I stopped sometime around 2001 (life moved in a different direction), and only use the oil on "special" projects now. So that's why I don't use it much anymore. :dunno:

drivesitfar · Sep 13, 2014

Jake: thanks for sharing a little of your past which sounds amazing and i knew you had a lot of experience with linseed oil. I didn't know you are or were a farrier (or blacksmith). since the cork is a PIA to get out especially after years of sitting in a jar what would you store linseed oil in if you were going to use it often?

Fretters: any pictures of your vinegar jars of paint and linseed oil to share? We buy all our vinegar in plastic one gallon jugs so your "vinegar" jar over there across the pond might be a pickle jar here in the US and Canada. i found a used gallon metal can about half full at a client's shop as he was cleaning up to move and he gave it to me. i certainly have enough steel to put it on if it's still good, but would like to store future cans i buy correctly if possible.

if it isn't usable does it end up in a solid type form like wax or just change color?

ALL: i might have asked this already. how often do you put another coat on your vises or tools and does it get real light just before you need to do that or how can you tell? i know it probably depends on how warm or cold your shop/garage is and the moisture/humidity and was just curious if you could just see when it needs to get another coating.

drivesitfar · Sep 13, 2014

All: so I've got several vises that have maybe 30% or more of the original paint on them and they are in great shape. after taking them apart and cleaning them if i wanted to keep the original look would the boiled linseed oil be ok to use on top of the original paint as well as the bare steel where the paint has rubbed off?

for an example here is my Reed 2C that has some of it's original paint and i do like the patina.

EOC_Jason · Sep 13, 2014

I've never tried it on top of paint, might want to do a test first...

Paste Wax or Car Wax would be safe for sure...

Fretters · Sep 13, 2014

It'd be fine to apply it over the paint. This is one machine which was coated in my usual mix of linseed, over the original finish.

The latest Rapidor has had the same treatment too.

drivesitfar · Sep 13, 2014

Fretters: awesome pictures and thanks for already doing that experiment. by the way did you have a couple of pictures of the vinegar bottles you use to store your paints and linseed oil in?

also i think Jake made an effort to buy the burgundy colour in a spray paint can that you like so much so how about the recipe? I promise not to tell if it's a secret.

Fretters · Sep 13, 2014

The bottles with the red tops, (and there's one with a white top there too, containing paraffin and next to the bottle containing kerosene. They have different tops so I know which is which without having to sniff

), are the vinegar bottles.

Those caps off the vinegar bottles tend to fit most glass medicine bottles too, so it's a good way of pressing a medicine bottle into service without having to deal with those poxy safety caps.

Regarding the paint, it's a bog standard base mixed to colour. The base is 14Line poly. satin, with the colour being Wine Red, (can't remember the RAL code offhand).

rayh · Sep 13, 2014

Following Carla's suggestion, I drill the pin holes out with an "F" bit. I used my 20 Volt cordless and it cut very easy dry. I then cleaned all chips out and started tapping the holes dry. I started on the right side. I had to do a lot of backing up to clear the chips, the chips were very fine. I was into the hole about 5/8" and it just about locked up. I used some Kero and it helped some. I've drilled and tapped a lot of holes in computer frames near welds and this felt almost like that. I kept working it and finally it started cutting again and I finished with no problems. Not sure what I hit. The left side tapped dry with very little resistance, I could make a complete rotation or more before breaking the chips.

The 5/16" set screw is about 1.090 with about 1/2" of the threads removed. That dimension can vary. I cold blued the screw and used anti-seize on the threads. I tried taking them in and out several times with the nut tube in place and had no problems. Other than that hard spot in tapping, the hardest thing was getting started. Sometime later I want to repaint the vise but for now I need to use it. Hope this helps. Thanks Carla.

va.grouseman · Sep 13, 2014

Previously posted by Drivesitfar.

VA: what is linoleum jerky? good on you for putting flax in your coffee.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Linoleum[edit]

Linseed oil is used to bind wood dust, cork particles, and related materials in the manufacture of the floor covering linoleum. After its invention in 1860 by Frederick Walton, linoleum, or "lino"[citation needed] for short, was a common form of domestic and industrial floor covering from the 1870s until the 1970s when it was largely replaced by PVC ('vinyl') floor coverings.[7] However, since the 1990s, linoleum is on the rise again, being considered more environmentally sound than PVC.[8] Linoleum has given its name to the printmaking technique linocut, in which a relief design is cut into the smooth surface and then inked and used to print an image. The results are similar to those obtained by woodcut printing. :bounce:

McBrownie · Sep 13, 2014

rayh said:
Following Carla's suggestion, I drill the pin holes out with an "F" bit. I used my 20 Volt cordless and it cut very easy dry. I then cleaned all chips out and started tapping the holes dry. I started on the right side. I had to do a lot of backing up to clear the chips, the chips were very fine. I was into the hole about 5/8" and it just about locked up. I used some Kero and it helped some. I've drilled and tapped a lot of holes in computer frames near welds and this felt almost like that. I kept working it and finally it started cutting again and I finished with no problems. Not sure what I hit. The left side tapped dry with very little resistance, I could make a complete rotation or more before breaking the chips.

The 5/16" set screw is about 1.090 with about 1/2" of the threads removed. That dimension can vary. I cold blued the screw and used anti-seize on the threads. I tried taking them in and out several times with the nut tube in place and had no problems. Other than that hard spot in tapping, the hardest thing was getting started. Sometime later I want to repaint the vise but for now I need to use it. Hope this helps. Thanks Carla.

Ray, Nice job. That looks how it should have been built in the first place. :thumbup:

autopts · Sep 13, 2014

drivesitfar said:
Vises from A-Z: (copied from Dayid.org vise wiki where you might find more information about your vise) also vise companies added by members of Garage Journal are highlighted

A:
Adams & Co. Anvil Vise (GJ)
Atlas
Athol
Ajax (GJ)
Armstrong
American Scale (Kansas City closed doors in early 1960's) (list post #91)
Anchor (GJ)
B:
Bacus vise (GJ)
Babco
Barrett (GJ)
Brown and Sharpe
Brownells
Buggatti (GJ)
C:
Canedy
Champion
Charles Parker (see Parker)
Coastal
Cobra
Colton
Columbian
Companion (1933-1941 trademark re issued in 1980's)
Craftsman (made by Rock Island, Reed, Columbian and maybe Starrett & a couple more)
D:
Dawn
Desmond Stephan
Drillia Canada Vise (GJ)
Dodge Slide (GJ)
Dremel
Dunlap (1941-1963)
E:
E. B. Smith Co. (GJ)
Eron
Eclipse
Erie Tool Works
Emmert
F:
Fortis (English)
Fortis Unbreakable (GJ)
FPU (Polish)
Fuller (GJ)
G:
General Fire Extinguisher (GJ)
Goodell Pratt
Graham
Grand Master (GJ)
Gray
Gyro (made by Columbian)
H:
H & B
Holland's
Hudson
I:
Inmarks
J:
J. S. & Co. (GJ)
K:
Karas Electric Co. (GJ)
Keenkutter
L:
L. H. & F Co.
L.M. & V
Lake Side
Lakeside
Leinen
Lewis (GJ)
Littlestown
Luther (GJ)
M:
Marples (English)
Massey Perfect (GJ)
Mercury (GJ)
Millers Falls
Milwakee Bluegrass (GJ)
Morgan (still in business for government only new sales)
Monarch (made by Prentiss Vise Company)
N:
Nodular Brazil (GJ)
North Brothers Mfg.
O:
Oxwall (GJ)
P:
PalmgrenParker (Meridian, PA then sold to Union Tools in 19xx?)
Panavise
Paramo (English)
Parkinson (English)
a. Ball vise (GJ)
Precision Streamliner (GJ)
Prentiss (stopped doing business around WWII)
Q:
R:
Rae
Ratchet
Record (English) now made in China under Irwin and old ones say "made in England"
Reed (still in business and started in Erie, PA)
Ridge
Ridgid (still in business)
Rock Island
S:
Sampson
Samsonia, (made by Parkinson's)
Sears (Craftsman, Dunlap, Companion, Driver were made for Sears)
Soderfors/Bofors vise (GJ)
Shefield (GJ)
Sheldon (GJ)
Stanley
Starkey (GJ)
Star N (GJ)
Starrett
Starrett/Athol
Stevens Watch Maker (GJ)
Studebaker
Superior (GJ)
Swedish Pewe (GJ)
Swindens (English)
T:
Taskmaster
U:
V:
Veit Young (GJ)
Velox (GJ)
W:
Ward anvil vise (GJ)
Whitney Metal Tool Co. (GJ)
Will Burt made Versa-Vise (gunsmith vise maker)
Wilton (still in business)
Woden (English then made in Japan)
X:
Y:
York (GJ)
Yost (still in business)
Z:
Zylyiss Multi Vise AKA Profi-King Plus (Aluminum rod/Rail vise, also made under other names)

Blacksmith or Post vises:

Columbian
Fisher Eagle
Indian
Iron City
Keenkutter
Peter Wright (English also made anvils)

All vises on Dayid's.org list are not highlighted. any other old vise names i'm forgetting please post and i'll try to keep this updated? As you see after 30 posts our Garage Journal members have almost doubled the names on Dayid's vise list. I'm also trying to add where the vise companies were or are located and also if active or when they were last in business.

The brands that have a GJ behind their name are only seen on entire internet on a page of the Vises of Garage Journal up to approximately page #700 of that thread according to VaGrouseman on post #28 so noted here and look at his post for the page #. please let me know if they might have been posted elsewhere since he made that list or i started this thread.

I must be blind...LOL I see CHARLES (see Parker), but I don't see Parker Anyways on the vises thread, mention was given about the Trojan vise. There was a swivel on Ebay not long ago and I copied some photos. This is a Trojan 723 and the base verifies it was made by Parker and about 100 years ago

Here's a 706 Trojan that I've been trying to get $50 for it for the last year. Its a 5" and big!

Might want to add Trojan to this list

Outlawmws · Sep 14, 2014

Autopts (and Drives)

Palmgren and Parker got run together!

Adding to Autopts ad-ons:

I have a

ACE
Armstrong Tool Works (Probablty the same as Armstrong...)
Desmond Simplex (No Stephens...) No. 400
Jorgensen (Pony)
Milwaukee Tool & Equip. (Japan)

You might want to mention Columbian is still operating under the Wilton umbrella.

rayh · Sep 14, 2014

McB --- I think doing it again, after the first pin is driven out and while the second is holding the nut tube in place, run a 1/4 bit to line bore both holes. Remove the second pin. Use a snug fitting pin gauge to align the first set of holes, then line bore the second set of holes. The holes in the nut tube are cast in it and at a slightly different angle. I could feel the new set screws hitting the nut tube but I had about 4 thou clearance so no problem. I had removed the burrs on the nut tube.. A light chamfer on the nut tube wouldn't hurt.

Fretters · Sep 14, 2014

rayh said:
I had removed the burrs on the nut tube.. A light chamfer on the nut tube wouldn't hurt.

A countersink bit is the best thing to use for deburring and chamfering. It does pretty much both at the same time, requiring minimal effort to remove any remaining dross from the burr.

drivesitfar · Sep 14, 2014

Rayh: awesome job on the Wilton bullet. just to be clear you pulled out the old pins (2 total and one from each side). did you push them in just far enough to be able to pull out the vise nut then remove them out of the nut when it was outside the vise? then you tapped a couple new holes in the exterior's cast so you could screw in the new screws. then you ground off the threads off the ends of a couple Allen head screws so they would fit in the vise nut, and then screwed them in each side to hold the vise nut in place. Does that about some up what you described? thanks for the awesome description and especially of the drilling. also if you are not limited to just one picture please post as many pictures as you can even if you take up a few posts.

Wilton should have made the vises that way from the beginning so we all could service them without having to punch out a pin and possibly damage the cast. Again nice work. :thumbup:

Outlaw: thanks for checking the vise company list and your additions have now been added. by the way i saw that nice old Columbian you found and would love to see a few of your before and after pictures with your wisdom attached.

AutoPts: thanks for reminding me to put Trojan vises made by Parker on the vise company list and i moved Parker to it's own line which it really deserves.

VA: still not sure what linoleum jerky is but if you can buy it or make it and it makes you feel better then by all means eat some with your boiled linseed topping.

by the way you might want to put the flax you drink in your hot coffee in a cold drink because the heat changes it's properties, but if it is helping you then by all means keep drinking it that way.

jaker10 · Sep 14, 2014

Anyone ever tried wicking wax on jaw screws that you can't get out ? I have used it at work and it seems to work 80% of the time. I've been told candle wax will work also. Heat up the screw you cant get out and let the wax melt on it, let it cool and remove the screw. The wax gets sucked in like soldering a copper pipe and lubs the screw for removal. Hope this helps.

EOC_Jason · Sep 14, 2014

^^^ Good tip, I might have to try that...

Also, neat tip for the Wilton. Why they used pins? Probably because they didn't expect people to be taking them apart... lol. Also I'm sure during assembly it's a lot faster to beat a couple pins in than tap & thread and screw them in... It's all about cost...

rayh · Sep 14, 2014

Drivesitfar ---The ID of the nut tube doesn't permit both pins to be driven in. The holes are opposite each other, at a slight angle. I had to drive one in and use a hack saw to cut in half. They use a mild steel for the pin thank goodness. The wall thickness on the vise body was about 3/4'' to 7/8'' thick. Thats a long hole to tap, rather I had never did one that long. I had a friend turn on a lathe the set screw to .246, that was the dia of the 2 pins I removed. I got 1 1/4" set screws. With the head flush I shorten the screw so it was about 1/16'' shy of the inside of the nut tube. The OAL was about 1.09X.

drivesitfar · Sep 14, 2014

RayH: interesting. i don't remember anybody else having to remove the pins by hacksawing so i'd love to hear from others on how they removed their 2 pins that hold the vise nut in their bullet vises.

i think i remember seeing Balane punch them in from both sides to the middle of the vise nut and then removing the vise nuts and then the pins out after it was removed. i might have been wrong because you say there isn't enough room inside the vise nut to do this.

any others want to chime in and give us their thoughts??

Fretters: I noticed a very nice York restored in your shop and you said it was going to be your son's. in your post on the vise thread you mentioned you used boiled linseed oil and it looked painted. did your son end up changing his mind and did you just paint over the oil? now silver/blue color isn't your regular flavor so was that sprayed or do you have a bottle of that mixed up in your jars too. any pictures of the York with the linseed oil only finish? thanks

Fretters · Sep 14, 2014

I believe that was Jason who posted the blue York. Here are photo's of the little 'uns oiled one, (which is soon to be painted Burgundy, straight over the oil

).

Edit: It is Jason who has the blue one. Link:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4228232&postcount=20502

Fretters · Sep 14, 2014

Just for reference with regards to drilling out rusted solid screws on jaw inserts etc. Same principle applies regardless of head type, but a domed head screw is shown. This was the leadscrew retaining collar on a Swindens, but the same method has also been used for several lots of jaw insert screws, including the ones on that Swindens. The screws and collar had both rusted solid. One screw has had the head drilled off, the other screw has been centre tapped and pilot drilled. The final drill size used should be the same, or just ever so slightly larger than the screw thread outer diameter, then just drill down to the depth of the head with the drill bit. That will weaken the head so that it can be removed, and then the remaining stubs of the screw can be removed with grips.

All four heads drilled off.

The remnants of the heads.

drivesitfar · Sep 14, 2014

Fretters: yes i remember seeing Jason's awesome blueish York, but yesterday i was out of area with my bride so only using my cell to check the thread. on my cell phone your son's York looked silver with a little blue tint. go figure.

thanks for putting the drilled out screws pictures with your instructions and you did a great job on the little Nick's York vise too. (just an FYI is that Fritters hand drilled those heads out)

Jaker: thanks for posting that candle wax tip over here that i saw you posted on another thread. :thumbup:

Mpower5266 · Sep 16, 2014

It was suggested that I post my vise restoration and repair in this thread after putting it in the vise thread. I hope I am doing this right.

I picked up a Morgan vise last week on craigslist. It was a little rough but the price was right.

I immediately took it apart and got it soaking in vinegar.

After it soaked for about 24 hours the container I had it in started leaking so I went ahead and used some stripper on it.

After the stripper I ran the wire wheel on it and got it cleaned up. Time for a victory drink.

This is why one of the jaws was missing in the pic above.

While I was waiting for a time to repair the jaw I got some polishing done.

I picked up some 4130 bar stock, pinned the jaw in, welded and ground the welds down, I think it was a pretty good repair. I wish I took more photos of this process, I didnt know I would posting in a repair thread. Thats my great great grandfathers anvil, currently owned by my father, someday I will steal it from him.

Time for primer.

And then color.

Finally re-assembly and detailing.

I mounted it up today, I cant wait to use it.

tool_scrounge · Sep 17, 2014

drivesitfar said:
Vises from A-Z: (copied from Dayid.org vise wiki where you might find more information about your vise) also vise companies added by members of Garage Journal are highlighted

A:
Adams & Co. Anvil Vise (GJ)
Ace
Atlas
Athol
Ajax (GJ)
Armstrong
Armstrong tool works (might be same as Armstrong)
American Scale (Kansas City closed doors in early 1960's) (list post #91)
Anchor (GJ)
B:
Bacus vise (GJ)
Babco
Barrett (GJ)
Brown and Sharpe
Brownells
Buggatti (GJ)
C:
Canedy
Champion
Charles Parker (see Parker)
Coastal
Cobra
Colton
Columbian (Wilton owns their brand now since ?)
Companion (1933-1941 trademark re issued in 1980's)
Craftsman (made by Rock Island, Reed, Columbian and maybe Starrett & a couple more)
D:
Dawn
Desmond Stephan
Desmond Simplex (No Stephens...) No. 400
Drillia Canada Vise (GJ)
Dodge Slide (GJ)
Dremel
Dunlap (1941-1963)
E:
E. B. Smith Co. (GJ)
Eron
Eclipse
Erie Tool Works
Emmert
F:
Fortis (English)
Fortis Unbreakable (GJ)
FPU (Polish)
Fuller (GJ)
G:
General Fire Extinguisher (GJ)
Goodell Pratt
Graham
Grand Master (GJ)
Gray
Gyro (made by Columbian)
H:
H & B
Holland's
Hudson
I:
Inmarks
J:
J. S. & Co. (GJ)
Jorgensen (Pony)
K:
Karas Electric Co. (GJ)
Keenkutter
L:
L. H. & F Co.
L.M. & V
Lake Side
Lakeside
Leinen
Lewis (GJ)
Littlestown
Luther (GJ)
M:
Marples (English)
Massey Perfect (GJ)
Mercury (GJ)
Millers Falls
Milwakee Bluegrass (GJ)
Milwaukee Tool & Equip. (Japan)
Morgan (still in business for government only new sales)
Monarch (made by Prentiss Vise Company)
N:
Nodular Brazil (GJ)
North Brothers Mfg.
O:
Oxwall (GJ)
P:
Palmgren
Panavise
Paramo (English)
Parker (Meridian, PA then sold to Union Tools in 19xx?)
Parkinson (English)
a. Ball vise (GJ)
Precision Streamliner (GJ)
Prentiss (stopped doing business around WWII)
Q:
R:
Rae
Ratchet
Record (English) now made in China under Irwin and old ones say "made in England"
Reed (still in business and started in Erie, PA)
Ridge
Ridgid (still in business)
Rock Island
S:
Sampson
Samsonia, (made by Parkinson's)
Sears (Craftsman, Dunlap, Companion, Driver were made for Sears)
Soderfors/Bofors vise (GJ)
Shefield (GJ)
Sheldon (GJ)
Stanley
Starkey (GJ)
Star N (GJ)
Starrett
Starrett/Athol
Stevens Watch Maker (GJ)
Studebaker
Superior (GJ)
Swedish Pewe (GJ)
Swindens (English)
T:
Taskmaster
Trojan (made by Parker)
U:
V:
Veit Young (GJ)
Velox (GJ)
W:
Ward anvil vise (GJ)
Whitney Metal Tool Co. (GJ)
Will Burt made Versa-Vise (gunsmith vise maker)
Wilton (still in business)
Woden (English then made in Japan)
X:
Y:
York (GJ)
Yost (still in business)
Z:
Zylyiss Multi Vise AKA Profi-King Plus (Aluminum rod/Rail vise, also made under other names)

Blacksmith or Post vises:

Columbian
Fisher Eagle
Indian
Iron City
Keenkutter
Peter Wright (English also made anvils)

All vises on Dayid's.org list are not highlighted. any other old vise names i'm forgetting please post and i'll try to keep this updated? As you see after 30 posts our Garage Journal members have almost doubled the names on Dayid's vise list. I'm also trying to add where the vise companies were or are located and also if active or when they were last in business.

The brands that have a GJ behind their name are only seen on entire internet on a page of the Vises of Garage Journal up to approximately page #700 of that thread according to VaGrouseman on post #28 so noted here and look at his post for the page #. please let me know if they might have been posted elsewhere since he made that list or i started this thread.

Please add Dolex (France) to the vise list.

s2kattracks · Sep 18, 2014

Mpower - Nice!!

drivesitfar · Sep 18, 2014

MPower: nice work saving that old Morgan and thanks for the pictures and the details of the restoration. :thumbup:

TS: do you have any pictures of your Dolex vise you can add to your post and is a vise you can buy new today or one from the past that might be on somebody's bench in Europe? Added to the list and thanks for noticing it was missing.

McBrownie · Sep 18, 2014

drivesitfar said:
Added to the list and thanks for noticing it was missing.

Drives,

This: Parker (Meridian, PA then sold to Union Tools in 19xx?)

Should read this: Parker, Chas. (Meriden, CT Sold to Union Tools in 1957)

Also, did you see this on the vise thread for a Bison?
FPU = Fabryka Przyrzadow i Uchwytow AKA Bison-BIAL
Not sure where you list that one, Bison-BIAL or FPU (Poland)

Great thread and I might have found an old swivel jaw, but it's not a Parker.

va.grouseman · Sep 19, 2014

McBrownie---I've got the FPU Poland and a FPU Bison Bail listed in the index on page 2 of this thread and it is showing a Poland on page 321 and a Bison on page 332 of the VOGJ thread.---Just type Bison in the search bar--hit go--find Vise Repair 101--go to the index on page 2--scroll down, and it will be found for you.---I know the letters are real small, kind of like counting ants, so just let this thread do the walking.

Edit

I guess there isn't much difference if any in the two.---Nevertheless I've listed them separately.

drivesitfar · Sep 19, 2014

VA & McB: happy to see you both worked that out and let me know if i need to edit anything else. i changed the Parker information to reflect Union tools buying them in 1957 if you are positive and i added Bison (FPU) Polish. thanks

McB: so is your swivel jaw the Prentiss you mentioned without any pictures?

ALL: so i had to give my new Reed 4C that Jason EOC did such a great job restoring some company. i'm thinking i'm going to strip them all down to bare metal and put boiled linseed oil on all of them unless Fretters convinces me to paint a few his English Burgundy colour. from left to right i have a Morgan 160, Rock Island 577, another Rock Island 577, Reed 4C, and a Wilson 606 SJ swivel jaw vise. this shelf has about 850 pounds with these 5 vises and as you can see by the shelf above it is used to holding a few more pounds so fishing for a few REALLY big ones to add one day before i pass.

va.grouseman · Sep 19, 2014

That's a golden shelf Drivesit.---Now to top off with one of those Holy Grails, and then your looking at a kings ransom.

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