Underground Lair of the Squankum
- Thread starter Squankum
- Start date
Hit it with some matte black spray paint and then ran some errands. When I came back, I was shocked at how good it looked. This picture doesn't quite show it like sunlight did. Hooray for Wurth spray paint! And this was almost the last gasp of that can. You get what you pay for, and I bought that can from Griot's Garage long ago, back when GG focused as much on stuff to work on cars with as on stuff to clean cars with. I was also young and irresponsible with money then. Now let me go find the price of a new can using the internet.
Uh. No. No way. Not doing that. Unh uh. ($20.25 @ Pelican.) I'll buy the higher quality American stuff now, thank you.
This past weekend, I finished up a can of Wurth hood mat glue, it shoots a line of silly string that... somehow... the nozzle can alternate the string it shoots back and forth, wackity wackty wackity, so it spreads out well on the hood you're spraying it on. Bought this from a local parts counterman (aka GJ'er JamieK!) and I'm sure glad he steered me towards this and away from the official MB product for a hood mat, which is like a big can of rubber cement with a brush. That would have been like painting a fence with a Q tip, and without Tom Sawyer to help.
Anyway, yay for German chemicals. Boo for German prices.
Note about plugs: paper towels for the big end holes. Ear plugs for the 1/2" small holes on the back side. I wish I had thought of dispoable earplugs for plugging holes when painting all by myself, but I learned it on GJ!
Uh. No. No way. Not doing that. Unh uh. ($20.25 @ Pelican.) I'll buy the higher quality American stuff now, thank you.
This past weekend, I finished up a can of Wurth hood mat glue, it shoots a line of silly string that... somehow... the nozzle can alternate the string it shoots back and forth, wackity wackty wackity, so it spreads out well on the hood you're spraying it on. Bought this from a local parts counterman (aka GJ'er JamieK!) and I'm sure glad he steered me towards this and away from the official MB product for a hood mat, which is like a big can of rubber cement with a brush. That would have been like painting a fence with a Q tip, and without Tom Sawyer to help.
Anyway, yay for German chemicals. Boo for German prices.
Note about plugs: paper towels for the big end holes. Ear plugs for the 1/2" small holes on the back side. I wish I had thought of dispoable earplugs for plugging holes when painting all by myself, but I learned it on GJ!
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Chilliwack Murray
Well-known member
Teflon tape won't fix it but Teflon paste likely will. Don't ask me why I know this.
Sent from the phone thingy
Chilliwack Murray, tape seemed to be... okay, in this situation. I've dealt with telfon dope vs. tape before, doing the pipes for my air compressor/filter station, and yeah, dope fills bigger voids. But luckily, in this situation, we're not trying to keep 110 psi air bottled up, just trying to keep unfiltered air from coming in, and given that there's a much easier route, I suspect this will be okay. One elbow didn't bottom out until a shoulder on it hit the plate, but that worked out just fine for the "clock" arrangement I wanted the filters pointing at.
Now, the Solberg filter/muffler:
http://amzn.com/B00153AIMQ
http://www.solbergmfg.com/ViewSeriesDetail.aspx?SeriesId=1&PartNumber=FS-06-050
$15.60 (plus shipping), steel housing, made in America, industrial quality, nothing to complain about here.
Now, the Solberg filter/muffler:
http://amzn.com/B00153AIMQ
http://www.solbergmfg.com/ViewSeriesDetail.aspx?SeriesId=1&PartNumber=FS-06-050
$15.60 (plus shipping), steel housing, made in America, industrial quality, nothing to complain about here.
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And now, we open up the Solberg filter... Just what secrets was Al Capone hiding in here?
Ah. Okay, then. Steel base, disposable paper air filter element just like for a car, but tiny, and a lid with a section of clear plastic tubing that I guess, according to science, yo, acts as a muffler.
Ah. Okay, then. Steel base, disposable paper air filter element just like for a car, but tiny, and a lid with a section of clear plastic tubing that I guess, according to science, yo, acts as a muffler.
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rubberrodder
Well-known member
My old Craftsman pumper had two little diddley squat filters about 1 x 11/2 inches. cotton batting between wire cage like yours. It plugged up with over spray dust the first time I used it. The "upgrade" filters sears sold me were just little peices of foam rubber, They lasted maybe 5 minutes and I wasn't even painting anything. I cut a double layer of green "Scotchbrite" pad to keep out the big stuff and it's been no worries ever since.
Garsh! I'm not running my air intake to the outside world because I'm a renter and don't want to drill masonry, but you might want to just go with outside world air! You have a respirator?
Dear Garage Journal Forum:
I never thought these stories were true until one day, it happened to me. One night, I was alone, laying on my back on a concrete floor, when...
Yes, the writings of the elders are true! When doing an oil filter change, check the mating surface for the gasket of the old oil filter. I was looking up at it (Dodge 5.9L Magnum) and, since I've been pondering engine rebuild/junkyard motor issues lately, I thought, hmm, just how does that whole nice oil filter area fit into that cast iron cylinder block area? Is there a seal? Does it press in? I wonder how it's built? Oh look, there's some kind of seal, maybe I'll have to learn how to replace... OMG that's not an engine seal! That's the oil filter's seal!
(OK, the batteries in my LED headlamp are weak lately...)
Looking back, I've done over 400,000 miles of maintenance on cars since the 80's, and this is the first time.
Not an off brand filter, either. Mopar/factory, a quality thing. Maybe I tightened it a little much (1 turn, not 3/4) in hopes of preventing Mobil 1 10W-30 from seeping out. Maybe I was using a little too little oil on the gasket before screwing it on, same motivation. I think that has been an idea of mine in the past year. OK, use more oil now.
The old advice is true. Check your mating surface!
I never thought these stories were true until one day, it happened to me. One night, I was alone, laying on my back on a concrete floor, when...
Yes, the writings of the elders are true! When doing an oil filter change, check the mating surface for the gasket of the old oil filter. I was looking up at it (Dodge 5.9L Magnum) and, since I've been pondering engine rebuild/junkyard motor issues lately, I thought, hmm, just how does that whole nice oil filter area fit into that cast iron cylinder block area? Is there a seal? Does it press in? I wonder how it's built? Oh look, there's some kind of seal, maybe I'll have to learn how to replace... OMG that's not an engine seal! That's the oil filter's seal!
(OK, the batteries in my LED headlamp are weak lately...)
Looking back, I've done over 400,000 miles of maintenance on cars since the 80's, and this is the first time.
Not an off brand filter, either. Mopar/factory, a quality thing. Maybe I tightened it a little much (1 turn, not 3/4) in hopes of preventing Mobil 1 10W-30 from seeping out. Maybe I was using a little too little oil on the gasket before screwing it on, same motivation. I think that has been an idea of mine in the past year. OK, use more oil now.
The old advice is true. Check your mating surface!
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Bought a new torque wrench. It's small. Intake manifold gasket project on the horizon.
It came in a long cardboard box, long enough for regular torque wrenches. (There was other cardboard to protect it in shipping, inside the original box.) Here I am shortening the box. I even retained the "ear tab sliding into groove" method on that end, see the top edge of the photo. Picayune inventive moment: I slipped a scrap of cardboard into the new slot while I was gluing and clamping it so there would be an appropriate space for the ear tab when I was done.
The clamping was just the big red piece of steel laying on it while the box stood up. (Right side of pic.)
It came in a long cardboard box, long enough for regular torque wrenches. (There was other cardboard to protect it in shipping, inside the original box.) Here I am shortening the box. I even retained the "ear tab sliding into groove" method on that end, see the top edge of the photo. Picayune inventive moment: I slipped a scrap of cardboard into the new slot while I was gluing and clamping it so there would be an appropriate space for the ear tab when I was done.
The clamping was just the big red piece of steel laying on it while the box stood up. (Right side of pic.)
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Mini torque wrench came in handy sooner than I expected!
Had to do a wheel bearing adjustment on the front of a Ford van. The third step in that process is torquing to 22-25 in-lbs. Since the nut is 1 1/16", well, some adapters are needed. Okay, all adapaters are needed. 1/4 to 3/8, 3/8 to 1/2. Two! Two adapters! Plus a 1/2" locking extension to help clear the tire! And a fanatical devotion to the Pope!
I'll come back in...
Socket in picture not used in project. Socket not included. Do not use SK 1/4" torque wrench as a weapon.
What was frightening about this project wasn't that the wheel bearing had some slop in it, it's that the tire shop tried to sell the missus a ball joint job. The ball joints are a little over 5,000 miles old, all four.
I started my check with the ball joints. They're perfect. Yet the wheel and brake rotor tilted back and forth while nothing happened at the ball joints! If I can figure that out very quickly with jackstands and a drop light, laying on the floor, what excuse does a man with a van on a lift have? A buddy of mine thinks it was a nefarious shsyter plot, and I believe it's a possibility. My buddy is so cynical he thinks they loosened the bearing, but I know the mechanic who had this apart for the ball joint job. Well, don't know him, but I know him by his work. Let's just say he doesn't have an SK 1/4" torque wrench. Nor does he worry about his work. Competent enough to be too confident.
To be fair, he doesn't get to re-check his work like I do, like a pro, he does something and sends it on its way. Overall, he's probably a better mechanic than me, but his results do not always reflect this, which raises the philosophical question, if Pele shoots on goal in overtime but it's a full moon and he's drunk...
Had to do a wheel bearing adjustment on the front of a Ford van. The third step in that process is torquing to 22-25 in-lbs. Since the nut is 1 1/16", well, some adapters are needed. Okay, all adapaters are needed. 1/4 to 3/8, 3/8 to 1/2. Two! Two adapters! Plus a 1/2" locking extension to help clear the tire! And a fanatical devotion to the Pope!
I'll come back in...
Socket in picture not used in project. Socket not included. Do not use SK 1/4" torque wrench as a weapon.
What was frightening about this project wasn't that the wheel bearing had some slop in it, it's that the tire shop tried to sell the missus a ball joint job. The ball joints are a little over 5,000 miles old, all four.
I started my check with the ball joints. They're perfect. Yet the wheel and brake rotor tilted back and forth while nothing happened at the ball joints! If I can figure that out very quickly with jackstands and a drop light, laying on the floor, what excuse does a man with a van on a lift have? A buddy of mine thinks it was a nefarious shsyter plot, and I believe it's a possibility. My buddy is so cynical he thinks they loosened the bearing, but I know the mechanic who had this apart for the ball joint job. Well, don't know him, but I know him by his work. Let's just say he doesn't have an SK 1/4" torque wrench. Nor does he worry about his work. Competent enough to be too confident.
To be fair, he doesn't get to re-check his work like I do, like a pro, he does something and sends it on its way. Overall, he's probably a better mechanic than me, but his results do not always reflect this, which raises the philosophical question, if Pele shoots on goal in overtime but it's a full moon and he's drunk...
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rubberrodder
Well-known member
SQUANKUM, YES! I most definetly have AND USE a respirator when I paint. I like breathin' !
From the July 4th Harry J. Epstein's purchase -- I've ordered from HJE several times before, but this was my first box art request: Moe Syzlak wielding a crowbar as a weapon. Now it's on my shop wall.
"Yeah, I got a message for you from Kansas City. It's a crowbar to yer face!"
"Yeah, I got a message for you from Kansas City. It's a crowbar to yer face!"
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RonB001
Well-known member
Brilliant! This chart is going on my phone as well as in the garage. That way, I don't have to rely on aging brain cells to remember what to buy at my FLAPS.
Regards,
RonB
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Thanks, RonB! That's why I try not to be shy about sharing the picayune projects. One of the best things about GJ is all the tips and tricks we pick up from each other. (That and discovering tools we didn't know we "needed.")
And now you've given me an idea -- put it on my phone? Well... yeah! I was standing there in an aisle in Wal-Mart last night thinking, "5W-20? Really?"
Now, how to save an .xls on an iPhone... <scratch head>
And now you've given me an idea -- put it on my phone? Well... yeah! I was standing there in an aisle in Wal-Mart last night thinking, "5W-20? Really?"
Now, how to save an .xls on an iPhone... <scratch head>
rubberrodder
Well-known member
I used to sell Pirelli "tyres" when they came out with P6's. Now I feel old.
Yeah, I know. It was... decades ago. Still my favorite autmotive decade, though! (Well, it's my wallet's favorite automotive decade...)
Credit where credit is due: Check out this Scotsman's very thorough work on swapping a later model Mercedes turbo diesel into his older SL convertible (R107.)
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/350221-not-another-diesel-107-a.html
I am impressed.
Credit where credit is due: Check out this Scotsman's very thorough work on swapping a later model Mercedes turbo diesel into his older SL convertible (R107.)
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/350221-not-another-diesel-107-a.html
I am impressed.
OK, gang, let me CONFESS-uh to my LUST-uh for tools... tools placed in my path by Satan... the big white truck driving Snap On Satan...
I recently removed a dust cap from an E-150, using Channellock type pliers, and yeah, I wound up denting it. I hate that. And I fear that I'm getting them out of round.
I went looking for "the tool for the job". Pic below is of a Snap On GCP-10, I think. If not, it looks a lot like theirs. Oh yeah.. that'd do the trick... but at $80... okay, that's dumb, for me, at least, I do not work in a tire shop.
My first shopping foray found $30ish ones by Vim, but reviews on Amazon were mixed. (That may be where I heard people say, screw these, get the SO.)
Again, at $80, I can resist temptation...
I recently removed a dust cap from an E-150, using Channellock type pliers, and yeah, I wound up denting it. I hate that. And I fear that I'm getting them out of round.
I went looking for "the tool for the job". Pic below is of a Snap On GCP-10, I think. If not, it looks a lot like theirs. Oh yeah.. that'd do the trick... but at $80... okay, that's dumb, for me, at least, I do not work in a tire shop.
My first shopping foray found $30ish ones by Vim, but reviews on Amazon were mixed. (That may be where I heard people say, screw these, get the SO.)
Again, at $80, I can resist temptation...
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But then I stumbled across this trick on the internet! Muffler clamp!
I now have two in my toolbox, and the two of them cover the three cars in my fleet that have old timey grease caps. At $3.50 a pop for a qualty ROL brand muffler clamp, what a bargain. I used this on the other front dust cap on the E-150 a few weeks later and it worked well.
(Another photo grabbed from internet. I don't have the car that goes with this hub, alas.)
I now have two in my toolbox, and the two of them cover the three cars in my fleet that have old timey grease caps. At $3.50 a pop for a qualty ROL brand muffler clamp, what a bargain. I used this on the other front dust cap on the E-150 a few weeks later and it worked well.
(Another photo grabbed from internet. I don't have the car that goes with this hub, alas.)
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RonB001
Well-known member
I just cut and pasted into a .txt file. Even my cheap Android can handle those
;-)
Regards,
RonB
Here it is! Makes a great step stool, and a great seat for brake work, changing tires, all sorts of things. I used some fairly thin plywood this time around but that's about all it takes, anything is a big improvement over just the plastic bottom. Also, it makes it a little more sturdy if you're lugging around heavy things in it.
You can also use it as a soapbox to address the multitudes.
You can also use it as a soapbox to address the multitudes.
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Are you planning on taking old shock absorbers to the scrapyard? If they're gas shocks, your scrap man probably wants you to depressurize them.
Good instructions here:
http://www.kyb.com/knowledge-center/shock-tech-for-pros/disposal-procedures/
Note, do not drill with face directly above drill. Ask me how I know. (I was wearing good goggles, just got hydraulic oil on my lip.)
Good instructions here:
http://www.kyb.com/knowledge-center/shock-tech-for-pros/disposal-procedures/
Note, do not drill with face directly above drill. Ask me how I know. (I was wearing good goggles, just got hydraulic oil on my lip.)
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I forget how I got on to this subject, but I just installed this filter in the power steering system of the Dodge SUV. Very simple to do, just cut about 3" out of the return line to the pump.
Fellow GJ'er Torque1st preached the benefits of this filter more than once.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34679
I'd thank him, but he seems to have left us in some definition of the phrase.
The down side to these is they're not cheap, considering they're wee and plastic. Wix, # 58964, cost me $14.86 from amazon. But it's not like you have to change them often. I'm sure production volumes are low. Grumble grumble oil filters at Wal Mart are $3 grumble grumble.
Trivia I learned in the amazon comments: these are magnetic. People are tearing them apart and not finding magnets in them, but somebody in amazon comments found/noticed the patent # and Wix has found a way to put magnetic material into the plastic itself.
I first learned of these when shopping for a reman P/S pump on the internet about a year ago. I thought I was being upsold. I eventually realized, nah, it's not a bad idea, and why the heck not? My nicest car has a P/S filter from the factory, and that's a factory who has, let us say, a long-term view on car durability.*
Even more trivia: the vehicle was around 275K mi and I was changing out its Saginaw P/S pump when I realized, yeah, these return hoses are getting old and stiff from the heat, and are dirt cheap to replace, so I replaced them. Now, at 295K or so, splicing in this filter with some new "roto clip" type hose clamps, fast, easy, no leaks. I know I'm already a weirdo, but really, I do like spring steel hose clamps.
Also, those Vacula or Pella-type oil extractors are just the thing for P/S work. **** the reservoir out, you have much less dribble when you start working on hoses downhill from it. Or, a quick and dirty partial fluid change.
UPDATE: See post #315 for more.
.
Fellow GJ'er Torque1st preached the benefits of this filter more than once.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34679
I'd thank him, but he seems to have left us in some definition of the phrase.
The down side to these is they're not cheap, considering they're wee and plastic. Wix, # 58964, cost me $14.86 from amazon. But it's not like you have to change them often. I'm sure production volumes are low. Grumble grumble oil filters at Wal Mart are $3 grumble grumble.
Trivia I learned in the amazon comments: these are magnetic. People are tearing them apart and not finding magnets in them, but somebody in amazon comments found/noticed the patent # and Wix has found a way to put magnetic material into the plastic itself.
I first learned of these when shopping for a reman P/S pump on the internet about a year ago. I thought I was being upsold. I eventually realized, nah, it's not a bad idea, and why the heck not? My nicest car has a P/S filter from the factory, and that's a factory who has, let us say, a long-term view on car durability.*
Even more trivia: the vehicle was around 275K mi and I was changing out its Saginaw P/S pump when I realized, yeah, these return hoses are getting old and stiff from the heat, and are dirt cheap to replace, so I replaced them. Now, at 295K or so, splicing in this filter with some new "roto clip" type hose clamps, fast, easy, no leaks. I know I'm already a weirdo, but really, I do like spring steel hose clamps.
Also, those Vacula or Pella-type oil extractors are just the thing for P/S work. **** the reservoir out, you have much less dribble when you start working on hoses downhill from it. Or, a quick and dirty partial fluid change.
UPDATE: See post #315 for more.
.
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Just in case you think all I do is run around on the internet making wisecracks, I do actually get something done in the shop once in a while.
This is a stand for my dehumidifier. The dehumidifer drains into the laundry sink, and it had been sitting on the spare washing machine that is rarely used. Well, after it's third accidental trip to the concrete floor without breaking (what luck!) I had had enough and I built this. Here it is before its first coat of paint.
Reinforced milk crate for the sitting.
This is a stand for my dehumidifier. The dehumidifer drains into the laundry sink, and it had been sitting on the spare washing machine that is rarely used. Well, after it's third accidental trip to the concrete floor without breaking (what luck!) I had had enough and I built this. Here it is before its first coat of paint.
Reinforced milk crate for the sitting.
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This is my pit mat. It's a little comfy and it keeps me cleaner. Never thought I'd love it as much as I do. Just thought that at $19.99, it was worth a try.
Before this, in my parking lot wrench era, I used a scrap of silver bubble foam insulation whenever it was cold or wet. Now I use this inside all the time. (Cue "Jeffersons" theme song.)
I'm sure JEGS and Summit Racing have similar, if not identical, offerings.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Standard-Track-Mat,2577.html
Before this, in my parking lot wrench era, I used a scrap of silver bubble foam insulation whenever it was cold or wet. Now I use this inside all the time. (Cue "Jeffersons" theme song.)
I'm sure JEGS and Summit Racing have similar, if not identical, offerings.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Standard-Track-Mat,2577.html
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Chilliwack Murray
Well-known member
With a post starting with, "This is my pit mat." on this thread I really had no idea what to expect.
For some reason, when I read your post, I thought of Pete Towsend with a giant deodorant stick.
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Chilliwack Murray
Well-known member
Oh my.
They don't make 'em like they used to! Although, in this case, they may have been taking things too far...
Cast aluminum bodies for Pierce-Arrows:
http://www.pierce-arrow.org/features/feature26/index.php
Here's one for sale if you want one now. It has been restored. And by "has been", I mean, when Ike was president.
http://www.fantasyjunction.com/cars...assenger Roadster-6.8 Litre Inline 6-Cylinder
Not a Model T, that's for sure.
And now I know how the term "map pocket" came to be.
Cast aluminum bodies for Pierce-Arrows:
http://www.pierce-arrow.org/features/feature26/index.php
Here's one for sale if you want one now. It has been restored. And by "has been", I mean, when Ike was president.
http://www.fantasyjunction.com/cars...assenger Roadster-6.8 Litre Inline 6-Cylinder
Not a Model T, that's for sure.
And now I know how the term "map pocket" came to be.
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Well, here's a new one.
I ordered two Moog steering rack bellows from amazon. They got here today, two boxes, same part #, but slightly diffent box art. This box says "ASIA SPEC." The other box said made in America, this said made in Taiwan in the fine print.
I've got no problems with Taiwan. It is not Communist China. It's a different bunch of Chinese people on their own island. (You could look it up.) Everything I've bought that's Taiwanese in the past few years has been very good quality for a great price. (HF's non-shtty stuff, and Aircat air tools.)
I just find it odd that they're trying to get out ahead of it and saying it in big letters, and all it will make most people do is think of "China", and not the little one that's been our ally for so long.
I ordered two Moog steering rack bellows from amazon. They got here today, two boxes, same part #, but slightly diffent box art. This box says "ASIA SPEC." The other box said made in America, this said made in Taiwan in the fine print.
I've got no problems with Taiwan. It is not Communist China. It's a different bunch of Chinese people on their own island. (You could look it up.) Everything I've bought that's Taiwanese in the past few years has been very good quality for a great price. (HF's non-shtty stuff, and Aircat air tools.)
I just find it odd that they're trying to get out ahead of it and saying it in big letters, and all it will make most people do is think of "China", and not the little one that's been our ally for so long.
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rubberrodder
Well-known member
He quit the 'stones and joined the Monkee's!
I really enjoyed the Pierce-Arrow cast aluminum body article. Cast aluminum...Gee, only P-A guys would have known.This mechanic has a good tip for removing rivets on ball joints that are riveted to control arms. In this case, it's a Dodge Dakota, but the tip applies to all sorts of rivets, I'm sure.
EDIT From the future. That video appears to be unavailable and I have no memory of that that tip was.
_
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