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Show us Your Vintage Bench Grinders!!!!

tedsters

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Tedsters: why not paint your new grinder a John Deere green and yellow or Red instead of the battleship grey? your tool your color and it might make it easier to find in your shop until you get it organized.

Fretters: i have to read your posts about 5 times to figure out what you said and i'm not sure if i have it right yet. are you getting planted in the garden and somebody's getting to use your shed? :D

ALL: another member emailed me a few pictures of his grinder he's doing a total restoration on and he is having a huge problem removing the bearings. the one bearing he's tried to take off actually broke. I don't have all the specs on the grinder and i think he's going to start a thread, but thought this was interesting. anybody ever have this issue and any ideas on how to remove and replace the bearings?

Drives
l got a feeling if it was your grinder you would paint it john deere green and yellow, i am maybe gonna go off the charts and just paint it pink.
I think i will just tear it down the rest of the way tonight lowe's by me has the worst paint selection gonna stop at Meynards tomorrow they have a good selection of pink:D
 
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tedsters

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tried some Rusto machinery gray on the pedestal lot lighter then i want, couldn't find any valspar kobalt canyon thats what i wanted or battle ship gray don't know where to find that either i may as well of put pink on it...:lol_hitti
 

drivesitfar

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DM and Ex: I've seen old baldors with that handle. it has some cheap and some great Baldor looks to it. WWII probably could give us an answer if he sees it whether it's a real one or not.

Tedsters: since i can't use or afford a tractor i have to paint a few things JD colors to let me dream. you paint your grinder grey pink or polka dots. :D
 

tedsters

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heres a 1954 1/4hp i posted a few months back that i spiffed up, actually this color is rusto satin granite i like this better then the machinery gray
 

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tedsters

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the pedestal is rusto macihnery gray the baldor is a pretty good match to battle ship gray ithink
 

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tedsters

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bluebolt
look at the two post back #528 i posted with the handle and the tag is red, i didn't know when i painted it satin granite that the green paint that was on it was the original paint.
OSHA never required wheel guards till 1962 pretty sure and this one was a 1954 and only a 1/4 hp and you had a hard time stopping it that one is bigger then a 6''
 

drivesitfar

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Tedsters: all my newer Baldors are more of a blue grey instead of a battleship grey. here's a Morgan 50 that came off the USS Independence that was in WWII. and a picture of my baldor buffer which is more blue.
 

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Fretters

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i like this better then the machinery gray

I prefer any colour to machine grey. Hell, I'd even go pink before I'd ever buy a tin of machine grey. :D I don't mind grey for anything else, but there's just so much machinery out there lathered in grey that light grey is one of the few colours, (the other two are light yellow and light blue, which tend to be found on hire machinery), which I just can't bring myself to use. I'll merrily leave a decent grey paint job in place though, rather than just repainting on principle.
 
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torqueman2002

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Tedsters: all my newer Baldors are more of a blue grey instead of a battleship grey. here's a Morgan 50 that came off the USS Independence that was in WWII. and a picture of my baldor buffer which is more blue.
How thrilling to have such a great piece of history.

How did you come by it?
 

REDVETTE

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Here are my Milwaukee twins. The grinder on the left is a 1/2 hp that I bought new in 1993 at Home Depot. Its all original including paint and stones. The one on the right is a 1/3 hp I got off Ebay a year ago. The 1/3 hp was a mess when I got it, missing eye shields and tool rests plus both stones were done. I scored two sets of Delta Twin-Lite eye shields and took those down to bare metal and rewired them and repainted them. New polycarbonate site shields were made and set in. The tool posts are home made from 3x5 thin wall tube and 1/8" plate. The bases are Delta/Homecraft cast iron riser bases I found. The 1/2 hp runs so smooth you can balance a nickel on its side. The 1/3 hp is not as smooth and I'm working on that. I have added a drill grinding jig on the 1/2 hp machine and it does a nice job. The 1/3 hp machine came with stamped steel wheel guards but I wanted the nice cast aluminum ones like the 1/2 hp came with. These grinders were made by the Wissota Co. and rebranded for Milwaukee. I called Wissota a few months back and scored the last pair of cast wheel guards they had as NOS for $30 :D The decals on the columns were printed on photo paper by my inject and then glued to aluminum circles. I then riveted them to the columns. I have done other stands like these for other machines in the shop. It got them off my work bench and to a better hight to work with. The stands are bolted to the floor at all 4 corners and create a firm tool base.
 

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tedsters

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Tedsters: all my newer Baldors are more of a blue grey instead of a battleship grey. here's a Morgan 50 that came off the USS Independence that was in WWII. and a picture of my baldor buffer which is more blue.

yep i do believe my baldor was the same color as yours before, the machinery gray is gonna have to go i don't like it
 

tedsters

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Here are my Milwaukee twins. The grinder on the left is a 1/2 hp that I bought new in 1993 at Home Depot. Its all original including paint and stones. The one on the right is a 1/3 hp I got off Ebay a year ago. The 1/3 hp was a mess when I got it, missing eye shields and tool rests plus both stones were done. I scored two sets of Delta Twin-Lite eye shields and took those down to bare metal and rewired them and repainted them. New polycarbonate site shields were made and set in. The tool posts are home made from 3x5 thin wall tube and 1/8" plate. The bases are Delta/Homecraft cast iron riser bases I found. The 1/2 hp runs so smooth you can balance a nickel on its side. The 1/3 hp is not as smooth and I'm working on that. I have added a drill grinding jig on the 1/2 hp machine and it does a nice job. The 1/3 hp machine came with stamped steel wheel guards but I wanted the nice cast aluminum ones like the 1/2 hp came with. These grinders were made by the Wissota Co. and rebranded for Milwaukee. I called Wissota a few months back and scored the last pair of cast wheel guards they had as NOS for $30 :D The decals on the columns were printed on photo paper by my inject and then glued to aluminum circles. I then riveted them to the columns. I have done other stands like these for other machines in the shop. It got them off my work bench and to a better hight to work with. The stands are bolted to the floor at all 4 corners and create a firm tool base.

man them are sweet you did an awesome job
 

tedsters

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I'm still waiting for a reply to an eMail the day it was posted.

I hope someone here picks it up.

I'm not going to be able to follow up with it for several days.

How thrilling to have such a great piece of history.

How did you come by it?

torqueman[/B
if you can get that baldor that would make a great grinder, i think i told you when we were at breakefast how that 1/4hp bogged down when i got it i was gonna tear it completely apart till i seen the insides were like new all i did was repaint it and oil the bearings and it was just as good as new with all kinds of power, oh BTW i got the baldor with the handle on it of from CL with the rim base stand for $30 bought like 4 vises from the same guy also they were moving ya gotta love the moving sales
 

drivesitfar

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RedVette: You did an awesome job with those grinders and stands. Tourqueman just picked up their cousins in a 1/2 and 1 HP. those Milwaukee grinders are nice. I can't say I've ever seen those stands or certainly not that nice so kudos to you for painting them and finding the decals.

TM: I double checked my battleship history and found out there are many USS Independence ships in the history of the US Navy. the one my vise came out of was actually launched in 1959 and spent most of it's years in the Mediterranean and Japan before retiring in Bremerton about an hour from my house. the vise was removed prior to scrapping the ship and sat on the guy's bench for 15 years before i bought it when he moved. He told me the name of the ship so when i originally looked that name up Google sent me to a WWII version. by the way i'd love to see your Milwaukee 1HP on this thread now that you have the side guards from the 1/2 for it to make it complete.

Tedsters: better plan is just to send that old grinder to me so you don't have to worry which color to paint it and i'll be happy to paint it green and yellow. :D
 
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torqueman2002

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Tedsters: why not paint your new grinder a John Deere green and yellow or Red instead of the battleship grey? your tool your color and it might make it easier to find in your shop until you get it organized.

Fretters: i have to read your posts about 5 times to figure out what you said and i'm not sure if i have it right yet. are you getting planted in the garden and somebody's getting to use your shed? :D

ALL: another member emailed me a few pictures of his grinder he's doing a total restoration on and he is having a huge problem removing the bearings. the one bearing he's tried to take off actually broke. I don't have all the specs on the grinder and i think he's going to start a thread, but thought this was interesting. anybody ever have this issue and any ideas on how to remove and replace the bearings?
I use an OTC & Snap-On puller set up for Block grinder bearings.

Heating the bushing should work from what I can see, my caution would be to not heat the bushing to the point the bearing separator is damaged. Also, if you can keep the arbor/shaft cooler than the bushing with wet rags on both sides of the bushing, that should help removal. The idea being to keep the shaft cooler (smaller/contracted) relative to the bushing (hotter, larger/expanded).

Best of luck.

BTW - what is that out of?
 

mikegt4

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I'm still waiting for a reply to an eMail the day it was posted.

I hope someone here picks it up.

I'm not going to be able to follow up with it for several days.

I am local to it and have not got a response.

I have had very bad luck with e-mail replies on CL. Just missed out on a Wissota grinder that had been on CL for a month, no reply to e-mails. Now it has been removed by the seller. Had the same experience with another grinder and 2 air compressors in the last few months.

I don't understand why sellers would not respond to the potential buyers only avenue of communication. Somewhere there is a guy telling his wife "I don't understand why it hasn't sold it yet.".
 

bluebolt

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I am local to it and have not got a response.

I have had very bad luck with e-mail replies on CL. Just missed out on a Wissota grinder that had been on CL for a month, no reply to e-mails. Now it has been removed by the seller. Had the same experience with another grinder and 2 air compressors in the last few months.

I don't understand why sellers would not respond to the potential buyers only avenue of communication. Somewhere there is a guy telling his wife "I don't understand why it hasn't sold it yet.".[/QUOTE]

Yeah think about that statement for a bit LOL.
 

Kevski

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Thanks to everyone for help on this... finally got the bearings replaced. This is on an old Baldor 500 carbide tool grinder

I was able to notch the race from the broken bearing with a Dotco, then split it with a cold chisel. Once off, it was clear that the sleeves were indeed pressed on (from the end of the shaft, they looked like they were part of the shaft). Heat and a hydraulic press got the sleeve off. Unfortunately, I had the bearing separator cranked down too tight, and it galled the shaft. Nothing a file can't fix.

For the other side, I used a bigger bearing separator (the HF one used previously was flexing and I was afraid it would fail), and heated the sleeve prior to pressing. Took about 5 tons of force, but the sleeve and bearing came off clean.

Cleaned up the shafts, found some nice quality bearings in the bearing drawer, and installed them with minimal force. Original bearings were New Departure 99504, but a standard 6204 is the same size.

Re-installing the sleeves was another matter. I heated them with a propane torch for about 30 seconds prior to installation. One dropped on and shrunk down for a nice fit; the other took quite a bit of force on the press, and the shoulder deformed somewhat. Should still work... will finish assembly over the weekend and post some pics.

Having replaced all sorts of bearings, I can say that this was quite the PITA... almost as bad as Subaru wheel hubs!

drivesitfar said:
ALL: another member emailed me a few pictures of his grinder he's doing a total restoration on and he is having a huge problem removing the bearings. the one bearing he's tried to take off actually broke. I don't have all the specs on the grinder and i think he's going to start a thread, but thought this was interesting. anybody ever have this issue and any ideas on how to remove and replace the bearings?
 

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drivesitfar

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Kev: I'm happy to hear that your Baldor is moving back in a positive direction now. thanks for posting what you ended up having to do for the fix so the guys can all see that their methods or some form of them still work.

another tip you might do next time so you don't have to use up quite all of your 25 ton press is to maybe put the shaft in the freezer for a few minutes. I've heard that works to make is maybe a thousandth or so smaller and then heating the sleeve makes that a little bigger hence the fix.

if that isn't a good idea to put a grinder motor in the freezer somebody please let me (us) know because i don't want to find out the hard way.

ALL: thanks for the assist to help Kevski fix his old awesome Baldor.
 

zkling

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I'm still waiting for a reply to an eMail the day it was posted.

I hope someone here picks it up.

I'm not going to be able to follow up with it for several days.

If you are coming that far down, did you see that stanley?
 

exmaxima1

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another tip you might do next time so you don't have to use up quite all of your 25 ton press is to maybe put the shaft in the freezer for a few minutes. I've heard that works to make is maybe a thousandth or so smaller and then heating the sleeve makes that a little bigger hence the fix.

That should work fine. I met a guy years ago that used to install bearings in Harley cases in a similar fashion. He would put the bearings in the freezer and the case in the oven at around 300 degrees. The bearing would drop right in with no pressing at all, and within seconds it was tight.
 

Gojeremy

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Saw this on ebay for $25 but shipping is $44! 1/3hp. Worth it?
 
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Fretters

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Saw this on ebay for $25 but shipping is $44! 1/3hp. Worth it?

If it's in good working order, the Wissota stuff apparently ain't shonky gear, so I'd guess that would be a decent price, taking shipping into account. 1/3HP ain't no power demon though, so it might be fairly easy to stall that.
 

jakemac

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I'd wager that the vintage 1/3hp wissota would be harder to stall than a more modern 1/2hp. Even though I would prefer higher hp, I think that the price with shipping isn't too bad if it runs well. It would make a nice resto project.
 

torqueman2002

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If you are coming that far down, did you see that stanley?
Is this the 1?

Grinder-100NewLebanonDaytonCraigsLista.jpg


I'm getting choosey. If all the pieces aren't there, or I don't have them/can't make them - I'm not looking.

It is nice, but w/o the RH tool rest I'm moving on.

Thanks though.

Somewhere, there's a pile of misplaced/forgotten/lost, eye shields, tool rests, wheel guards, and single socks.
 

McBrownie

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454ragtop

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tried some Rusto machinery gray on the pedestal lot lighter then i want, couldn't find any valspar kobalt canyon thats what i wanted or battle ship gray don't know where to find that either i may as well of put pink on it...:lol_hitti

Tedsters, if you can find some Plasticote T-10 Machinery Gray I think you will like it. It is a darker blue gray, seems to be a dead match for 40's Delta, used it on a drill press and purposely blended to a piece under the belt guard that I didn't paint. Pretty much exactly the same. Nice to work with, covers well, dries quick. Local Carquest store stocks it, though I try to pick it up elsewhere cheaper when I can.
HTH, Jim
 

zkling

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Is this the 1?

I'm getting choosey. If all the pieces aren't there, or I don't have them/can't make them - I'm not looking.

It is nice, but w/o the RH tool rest I'm moving on.

Thanks though.

Somewhere, there's a pile of misplaced/forgotten/lost, eye shields, tool rests, wheel guards, and single socks.

Yes, it is a 677, 1/3hp, missing right rest. Neat, but a bit much IMHO.
 
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