let's see your craftsman block grinders
- Thread starter emeraldcoupe
- Start date
drivesitfar
Well-known member
BB: thanks for all that information and best of luck on the 3/4 HP restoration.
TM: of course we all want to hear how your little adventure goes at the old motor factory and of course take plenty of pictures to post here. or maybe just take a few YouTube type videos. thanks in advance.
TM: of course we all want to hear how your little adventure goes at the old motor factory and of course take plenty of pictures to post here. or maybe just take a few YouTube type videos. thanks in advance.
I think you would need a bigger lamination stack to reap more horsepower for a given rpm. Doubtful that just different coil turns could add 33% more power.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
I'm not so sure of that Exmax, I, and many others used to re-wind slot car motors (admittedly these are little DC motors, not AC...) to get more power/speed out of them. IIR we wound with a slightly heavier gauge wire, presumably to pass more amps. balancing and keeping the winding's on the armature were the main issues (Centrifugal force could, and did push winding's out into the magnets at times)
I agree, adding 33% might be a stretch, but I could see you getting some gains.
if someone has, say a 1/3 and a 1/2 HP apart, measure the iron and the winding wire gauges. What is different?
I agree, adding 33% might be a stretch, but I could see you getting some gains.
if someone has, say a 1/3 and a 1/2 HP apart, measure the iron and the winding wire gauges. What is different?
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Drives, on the Foley question; Foley used the same source as Craftsman for motors, and I've seen Foley's with Craftsman motors, so they may have provided the setup as a kit add-on to the grinders Craftsman sold.
Probably not economical to buy the components separately to the buyer, but if someone already had a craftsman block, (and tens, if not hundreds of thousands more were sold than Foley's...) then its not that far fetched to sell a kit. Or possibly Foley bought excess Craftsman marked grinders from Delco...
Probably not economical to buy the components separately to the buyer, but if someone already had a craftsman block, (and tens, if not hundreds of thousands more were sold than Foley's...) then its not that far fetched to sell a kit. Or possibly Foley bought excess Craftsman marked grinders from Delco...
Faisal
Well-known member
hi every body
i have some questions about my craftsman grinder ## 39719581
you can see in the diagram there are two type of nut ,hex and hex jam nut
1-what is the difference between each other ?
2-what its the best way to tight the wire or grinder wheel ? because today i installed new wheel but i could not tight it because the shaft will turn while i am tightening ,i don't want use locking pliers to hold the shaft because for sure it will make some scratch
thanks
i have some questions about my craftsman grinder ## 39719581
you can see in the diagram there are two type of nut ,hex and hex jam nut
1-what is the difference between each other ?
2-what its the best way to tight the wire or grinder wheel ? because today i installed new wheel but i could not tight it because the shaft will turn while i am tightening ,i don't want use locking pliers to hold the shaft because for sure it will make some scratch
thanks
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Faisal: usually finger tight is good enough because you have left and right threads. in some cases I've used and seen used double nuts. get one finger tight and if there is room add another nut on the end and uses wrenches to tighten them together.
if there are other ways i'd like to know also.
Outlaw and Ex: thanks for the FYI
TM: have you tried an 8 inch wheel on GO BLUE or do you just know that an 8 inch wheel will fit?
if there are other ways i'd like to know also.
Outlaw and Ex: thanks for the FYI
TM: have you tried an 8 inch wheel on GO BLUE or do you just know that an 8 inch wheel will fit?
torqueman2002
Well-known member
Faisal;
Part #5 (Hex Nut) is a left hand threaded nut
Part #22 (Hex jam nut) is a right hand threaded nut
When I tighten the LH and RH nuts, I 'snug' them up with an open end wrench while holding the wire wheel or stone by hand.
Check that the threads are clean and not damaged. You may need to clean them up with a small, fine triangular file; or use a thread restorer die.
I use split dies for arbor/shaft threads that are damaged on the end, making starting a thread restorer die difficult or impossible.
I hope that helps.
Mike
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torqueman2002
Well-known member
McBrownie
Well-known member
I worked in the power tool industry 20 years ago when most stuff was still made domestically. It was not unusual to be at a Black and Decker assembly plant and see them assembling Snap-On, Skil-Bosch, or Porter-Cable units. It was also not unusual to be at Porter-Cable, or Skil-Bosch and see them assembling units for Black and Decker. It all had to do with volume and economies of scale. They all "label slapped" for each other if it made economic sense. I have no idea if that still goes on in Mexican, Brazilian and Chinese assembly plants today.
I saw this grinder on Craigslist for $50. Not sure the hp. Anyway, i contacted the seller because i initially thought it was a Craftsman but its not, its a Delco. Anyone have any info on this? It would be a half hour drive for me to pick it up.
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McBrownie
Well-known member
Go,
That looks like a "pre-block" or the Craftsman "115" prefix. I would take a look and, if it has a cool label, I would grab it just for the rarity of the thing.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
GJ: i agree with McB. it does look pretty cool, but make sure it runs without any crazy sounds because it does look like it's either been run hard or something next to it was and shot **** all over it.
good luck
TM: just happened to have a picture of GO BLUE with a 8 inch grinding wheel next to it. nice and thanks again
good luck
TM: just happened to have a picture of GO BLUE with a 8 inch grinding wheel next to it. nice and thanks again
pendragon1998
Well-known member
Guys, can y'all recommend me a stripper? 
I've got two replacement wheel housings that have a basecoat of the original bronze and a top coat of a gray. I'd like to strip them down to bare metal for priming and repainting. I tried some acetone I had around, and it sort of took off some of the gray, but didn't touch the bronze. I also hit it with goof off and some brake cleaner, just because my eye fell upon them. No dice. What should I use?
I've got two replacement wheel housings that have a basecoat of the original bronze and a top coat of a gray. I'd like to strip them down to bare metal for priming and repainting. I tried some acetone I had around, and it sort of took off some of the gray, but didn't touch the bronze. I also hit it with goof off and some brake cleaner, just because my eye fell upon them. No dice. What should I use?
Attachments
drivesitfar
Well-known member
PD: i might use the wire wheel on my block grinder or electrolysis.
The bulk of the current in a motor is limited by back EMF, and the resistance of the windings limits the in-rush during startup until the motor gets up to speed. Heavier gauge wire should not make more running power, but would contribute to cooler operation and longer life.
To be honest, the chassis on a block grinder is not all that substantial, and really is not the best candidate for hot rodding the power. I would just buy a bigger/heavier grinder before investing in a custom rewind...
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jakemac
Well-known member
Guys, can y'all recommend me a stripper?
I've got two replacement wheel housings that have a basecoat of the original bronze and a top coat of a gray. I'd like to strip them down to bare metal for priming and repainting. I tried some acetone I had around, and it sort of took off some of the gray, but didn't touch the bronze. I also hit it with goof off and some brake cleaner, just because my eye fell upon them. No dice. What should I use?
Try soaking it in Simple Green for a day or two in a bucket, periodically scrubbing with a nylon laundry brush. It may not remove all (or most) of the paint, but it should give you a good surface to scuff and prime over.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Pendragon, lots of guys swear by aircraft stripper. Never tried it myself... 
I used Zinsser Magic Strip Citrus-Action Paint and Varnish Remover for several recent restorations including a Dunlap DP. And with it being citrus based, not near as toxic as using other removers like aircraft stripper. Since my work was being done in Dec., I purposely went with this product so I could work in the basement.
http://www.menards.com/main/paint/cleaners-thinners-removers/paint-stain-removers/water-based/zinsser-magic-strip-citrus-action-paint-and-varnish-remover-gel-1-qt/p-1963292-c-19344.htm
http://www.menards.com/main/paint/cleaners-thinners-removers/paint-stain-removers/water-based/zinsser-magic-strip-citrus-action-paint-and-varnish-remover-gel-1-qt/p-1963292-c-19344.htm
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Finally had some time and milder temps to do some more clean up on a recently acquired 1/3hp. Found about the same level of debris on the other side and explains the reduced wheel size as it is down to a 5 inch. Doubt these covers have been removed since new, but it cleaned up nicely.
Still debating how I want to set-up number 2, but I may just pull off the side covers and run this one with a wire and buffer wheel... as #1 has fine/coarse stone wheels. Which would result in retiring the 25 year old Master Mechanic 1/2hp that these beauties replaced
Still debating how I want to set-up number 2, but I may just pull off the side covers and run this one with a wire and buffer wheel... as #1 has fine/coarse stone wheels. Which would result in retiring the 25 year old Master Mechanic 1/2hp that these beauties replaced
pendragon1998
Well-known member
Pendragon, lots of guys swear by aircraft stripper. Never tried it myself...
I've seen that stuff in action (from afar). The paint was literally falling off the wings in sheets. It's wicked strong stuff, AFAIK.
I'm going to stick my part in the electrolysis bucket until Monday or Tuesday when I have a chance to go to the store. Maybe I'll be pleasantly surprised and find all the paint has come off. Thank you all for the suggestions.
torqueman2002
Well-known member
McB - I'm sure an 8" will fit if yours has room to spare.
My list is what I found (or my best recollection) on the Block, when I acquired it.
I'll make a note in my list, it accommodates an 8"er.
McB;
Looks like an 8" will fit my 397.19670 also.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
T-Man you need to measure from the cover mtg bosses to the center... you don't have as much room as your tape showed.
torqueman2002
Well-known member
It's the odd angle of the picture, trying to get between cover bosses, and through the raised rotor/shaft, with out parallax.
Inside of cover.
Another try of wheel guard.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
It's the odd angle of the picture, trying to get between cover bosses, and through the raised rotor/shaft, with out parallax.
Inside of cover.
Another try of wheel guard.
mtwaterguy
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 16, 2007
- Messages
- 3,518
My 3/4 commercial has 8X1 wheels on it. Checked this afternoon.
harleybuilder
Well-known member
A little high but it is a 3/4hp and looks like it is all there and with the stand.
http://huntsville.craigslist.org/tls/4909965469.html
http://huntsville.craigslist.org/tls/4909965469.html
Faisal
Well-known member
here's mine 6" 1/3 HP model N#397.19581 it came with original grinding wheel, paid $30 for it
when i received it ,i found power cable is not OK .the plug ground pin is Cut Off and there is cut in the cable ,i search for cable made in USA i found with some members help Coleman Cable 09856 3 Wire 16 Gauge x 9 feet 15$ and its excellent cable . the original one is 18 Gauge .also i cleaned all electrical parts with CRC and i put bearing oil lube in the bearing and installed new wire wheel
thank you for watching
when i received it ,i found power cable is not OK .the plug ground pin is Cut Off and there is cut in the cable ,i search for cable made in USA i found with some members help Coleman Cable 09856 3 Wire 16 Gauge x 9 feet 15$ and its excellent cable . the original one is 18 Gauge .also i cleaned all electrical parts with CRC and i put bearing oil lube in the bearing and installed new wire wheel
thank you for watching
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firemanast
Well-known member
Faisal
Nice grinder and nice work !
Nice grinder and nice work !
torqueman2002
Well-known member
Faisal -
I found the power cable on Amazon for $16.99. Free shipping with Prime or on orders over $35.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015YPG0Y/?tag=atomicindus08-20
I placed an order.
Nice grinder and thanks for posting your pictures.
Mike
I found the power cable on Amazon for $16.99. Free shipping with Prime or on orders over $35.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015YPG0Y/?tag=atomicindus08-20
I placed an order.
Nice grinder and thanks for posting your pictures.
Mike
firemanast
Well-known member
Anybody need a left side wheel guard for a pre block. Dam I wish it was a right side. It is on flea bay http://www.ebay.com/itm/301545948039?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Faisal
Well-known member
Faisal -
I found the power cable on Amazon for $16.99. Free shipping with Prime or on orders over $35.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015YPG0Y/?tag=atomicindus08-20
I placed an order.
Nice grinder and thanks for posting your pictures.
Mike
you are most welcome ,you can find it also in ebay 15.55$ with free shipping
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221483005215?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Faisal
Well-known member
yes they are cheaper ,but not made in USA
Coleman Cable made in USA and excellent quality
Outlawmws
Well-known member
My fall back for a replacement power cord is often an old computer power cord. The ones from servers or other heavy power users (large corp copiers and printers?) are often a heavier gauge. (you do often have to sort out which one is neutral as they are usually using odd colors (Blue & brown? 
) except for ground (green)
) except for ground (green)Faisal
Well-known member
My fall back for a replacement power cord is often an old computer power cord. The ones from servers or other heavy power users (large corp copiers and printers?) are often a heavier gauge. (you do often have to sort out which one is neutral as they are usually using odd colors (Blue & brown?
yes ,the ground is grean color and some times grean with yellow
and in single phase AC power ,there is no problem if you swap the cables
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Pupuhd
Well-known member
BASE BUSHING (RUBBER FEET), Part No. 5537401
ALL: A while back someone here posted replacement rubber grommets from Lowes for missing or damaged Base Bushings (rubber feet). I believe torqueman also has this reference in one of his threads. Went today to Lowes and purchased four at .96 cents each for the missing ones on my second CM 1/3hp Block grinder.
Let me tell you, they are an almost perfect replacement and excellent fit. The bottom diameter is larger than the original, however I found that to be a plus, more surface area for a better grip. For anyone with either missing or damaged Base Bushings, this is an great buy for under four dollars for a set of four. Hope this information helps any one out there. Thank you.
Below are photos of original (smaller) versus newer rubber bushing (larger). Also they are made in the USA.
ALL: A while back someone here posted replacement rubber grommets from Lowes for missing or damaged Base Bushings (rubber feet). I believe torqueman also has this reference in one of his threads. Went today to Lowes and purchased four at .96 cents each for the missing ones on my second CM 1/3hp Block grinder.
Let me tell you, they are an almost perfect replacement and excellent fit. The bottom diameter is larger than the original, however I found that to be a plus, more surface area for a better grip. For anyone with either missing or damaged Base Bushings, this is an great buy for under four dollars for a set of four. Hope this information helps any one out there. Thank you.
Below are photos of original (smaller) versus newer rubber bushing (larger). Also they are made in the USA.
Pupuhd
Well-known member
in single phase AC power ,there is no problem if you swap the cables
True to an extent. However try to keep black to positive, white to neutral. This will be very important when wiring the lamp for a separate on/off switch. The positive in lamp cords will usually have a stripe running down the length. This should be attached to the center connection on the bulb socket. While the neutral is wired to the exterior threaded connection on the bulb socket. This is a safety issue when removing a bulb as to not get electrocuted if you touch the threaded portion of the bulb if still in contact with the bulb socket and still juiced up.
McBrownie
Well-known member
That is a nice one and I think the only Split-Phase 3/4hp model that was made. Actually, not an unreasonable price for a "big boy" with an original stand.
torqueman2002
Well-known member
Hmmmm, 10 h 30 mins from me.
