Machine Name Plate Tag Reproduction

Pupuhd · Mar 13, 2016

For the last three to four months I've been hot and heavy rebuilding/restoring. Mostly vintage electric motors, vise and one of two Craftsman "Block" grinder. Gotten about 99% done and all stops when it came to the final details, the machine name plates or tags.

After reading much here what others are doing to reproduce these from water slide decals, vinyl stickers and photo images on aluminum sheets, I decided to take my stab at reproducing some. First was the 1965 Craftsman Block 1/3hp grinder. The aluminum plate on this was worn and I wanted to make a new plate right after the rebuild. At first I used MS Word to create it. Though it came out pretty decent and accurate, it was a real PITA to reproduce on MS Word. Next switch over to MS Publisher, the results were more accurate but still not happy with the final print outs. Then tried the free GIMP software and was really disappointed, too much of a learning curve.

After reading other threads in this forum, it was mentioned the best software would be Adobe Illustrator because of the level of clarity and vector images that came be exported in great detail. I started from scratch and was able to reproduce every minute detail from font to background objects, to precise location of the mounting holes. With this said, I was very satisfied with the final results. Next to the original name plate it was hard to distinguish one from the other.

Originally my idea was to have water slide decals printed out and transferred to new aluminum sheets. That idea on two separate tries failed when the decal fell off the new aluminum after a few days. Next I was going to try vinyl stickers on the aluminum sheets. However, I read about Bayphoto out west that can print (infuse) images on aluminum sheets. I decided to take the plunge and get them to create name plates for me. To save on shipping I create one file that contained six Craftsman name plates on an 8x10 sheet. Then on a second 5x5 sheet I had three other different name plates printed.

It took them one day to complete my order and another four days shipment form one coast to the other. The results are incredible.

I'll show later how I created six identical Craftsmen grinder name plates on the router table complete with mounting holes. The daylight savings change this weekend got me tired early. Thanks-David

toddmp · Mar 13, 2016

beautiful!

pendragon1998 · Mar 14, 2016

Fantastic! I look forward to your writeup of how you trimmed out and drilled the labels. I would be interested in how the labels stand up to abrasion and common solvents they might be exposed to.

Dennis Leigh Henry · Mar 14, 2016

Very nice!

Techie1961 · Mar 14, 2016

Very cool! I am struggling with this right now and look forward to more information.

wolfsburged · Mar 14, 2016

Very cool!

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Pupuhd · Mar 14, 2016

Thanks for the great comments so far.

pendragon1998 said:
Fantastic! I look forward to your writeup of how you trimmed out and drilled the labels. I would be interested in how the labels stand up to abrasion and common solvents they might be exposed to.

I did forget to mention a few details about the MetalPrints from Bayphoto. First they currently only accept JPG, PNG and unlayered TIFF. I did email them to see if they would accept vector files such as AI. The image according to their website: MetalPrints™ represent a new art medium for preserving photos by infusing dyes directly into specially coated aluminum sheets. Your images will take on a magical luminescence.

I did notice this right away, while working with them no image "was harmed in the making of", very durable. Fingerprints just wiped right off. According to them you can use standard glass cleaning products on it, however keep away from direct sunlight. I'm not sure this type of media would survive harsh chemicals, but most likely cleansers, oils would be fine. The MetalPrints media is mostly for photographs.

Second I chose the Sheer Matte finish. With either the Sheer matte or glossy the "Metal shows through the image, giving our Sheer Surfaces a unique translucent luminescence." Also for this finish the whites are transparent and the brushed aluminum is shown through. This is ideal for some tags that have that look such as the CM grinder, GE Triclad motor and AH switch plates I reproduced.

David

McBrownie · Mar 14, 2016

Great job and looks completely original. I don't have a need at the moment, but others probably do. Could the old gold style tags be reproduced with this method?

View media item 50168

Fixed · Mar 14, 2016

Do you mind sharing (roughly) how much having that printed cost you?

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

torqueman2002 · Mar 14, 2016

Pup - a BIG ATTA-BOY!

Nice write-up and great results.

The label is the crown of a restore, and it's nice to have resources like this.

I hope it will be OK that I link to this thread from: "Craftsman Block motor Bench Grinders - What's the Fuss ...".

Pupuhd · Mar 14, 2016

torqueman2002 said:
Pup - a BIG ATTA-BOY!

Nice write-up and great results.

The label is the crown of a restore, and it's nice to have resources like this.

I hope it will be OK that I link to this thread from: "Craftsman Block motor Bench Grinders - What's the Fuss ...".

Torqueman we need to stop bumping into each other like this. There are groups for people like you...... Wait a minute I'm in that group also [emoji12]

I'm waiting to finish this write up here and then post the results over at "Let's see your craftsman block grinder" thread. However I need to PM you to remove the one name plate image you have of mine a while back and upload this more accurate one. Also there, some were interested if I was able to make vinyl stickers for this model. I'm hoping to get some interest in the remaining five aluminum ones for about $12 each to some of the GJ members in that thread. When you get a free moment PM me with the above requests. Thanks-David

BTW: It'll be great if you linked this to your thread. Also if you don't mind, can you post it on the "let's see your craftsman block grinders" so some of those guys/gals can see the progress here and create some interest. Like I said earlier, I'll post the results there later this week.

I "see" said the blind man to the deaf man as he picked up his hammer and saw.

nine4gmc · Mar 14, 2016

nice!

Pupuhd · Mar 14, 2016

McBrownie said:
Great job and looks completely original. I don't have a need at the moment, but others probably do. Could the old gold style tags be reproduced with this method?

View media item 50168

I don't see why not. It would have to be without the "Sheer" finish since no aluminum shows through in either Matte or Glossy finish. Based on yours what is the finish, matte or glossy? Thanks-David

BTW: check your email box, sometime today I'll email you soon.

Pupuhd · Mar 14, 2016

Fixed said:
Do you mind sharing (roughly) how much having that printed cost you?

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

Someone over at the CM Block thread got a one-off from Bayphoto of the larger original plastic(?) in the MetalPrint with a Sheer Glossy finish. He had them custom cut it to size with the corner radius' for $20 plus shipping. They will do custom sizes for a fixed $ per square inch, minimum $20.

However I decided to try the custom sizing myself. The six CM tags on the 8x10 aluminum sheet was $20 and the three other tags on the 5x5 was $16 plus $5 shipping from California to NJ, $41 total. The majority of the work is in the custom sizing, holes, filing, etc.

Pupuhd · Mar 14, 2016

Next step was to make a template guide to be used on the router table. For a one-off I believe this can be made from mdf, however since I am making multiple badges I chose acrylic. It's more durable, lasting and since clear allows see through alignment with the new badges.

I cut 1/4 inch acrylic to size (2.63" x 3.14") on the table saw using a 60 tooth finish blade. Tried to cuts these first on a miter saw but the blade melted the cut edge and also similar results using a stationary belt sander. The table saw gave me the smooths cut edges, no need to dress them.

The 1/8" holes were drilled out on a drill press starting with a 1/16 inch bit and working my way up in 1/32 increments. I didn't want to break the corners so close to the edge. Also the two halves of the template guide were marked (witness marks) when drilled as to not flip them around later.

At this point with the mounting holes created in the guide, I then sacrificed a 1/8 inch drill bit. I cut from the non-fluted end four 1/2 inch lengths and ends slightly rounded over on the bench grinder. These would serve as alignment pins when everything was sandwich together. This is were it got tricky and things didn't line back up when I put the whole assembly together.

TIP: When I drilled out the 1/8 inch holes through both halves I should have used a #31 (.1200") drill bit. The 1/8" bit created a slightly larger hole and the 1/8" alignment pins had a bit of slop sitting in the holes for the bottom half of the acrylic template. After gluing these pins with CA glue, the pins did not sit perpendicular to the template and therefor did not align with the holes in the upper half template. This was fix by filing the upper holes for proper fitment.

Here are both halves sandwich together with the alignment pins in place. Also note the outside corners have not been rounded over to the 1/8 inch radius to match the original tag. Later I rounded the corners on the router table using a 1/8 inch round-over bit and a piece of wood as a backer board as to not break off the corners of the acrylic.

bonneyman · Mar 14, 2016

Very nice!

Empty Pockets · Mar 14, 2016

To Quote the late Peter Boyle, "Holy ****!"

Those are nice, looks like i may need some soon, as i have a bunch of half finished projects

McBrownie · Mar 15, 2016

Pupuhd,

Here is more info and some hopefully better pictures of the 1960's gold labels. It's hard to get a good picture of these with an iPhone. The dimensions are 2.625 wide and 3.125 long. I measured them with dial calipers and they are right on 2 5/8" by 3 1/8". They appear to be more on the glossy side. The last picture is my grinder covered in dust and you can see where I have rubbed off some of the dust around the on/off switch.

View media item 58955
View media item 58956
View media item 58937

Pupuhd · Mar 15, 2016

After making the acrylic template guide it was time to put it to use. Using the upper half, I aligned it over the image using the outline of the badge to get everything centered and squared. Then painters tape is applied to hold it down.

TIP: Through trial and error, putting the tape diagonally near two opposite corners held the template down more stable when drilling. Also, use a sharp piece of wood to press the tape into the corners.

My drill press is next in cue for rebuild so I had to use a cordless drill to drill out all the mounting holes with a 1/8 inch bit. Afterwards all holes were debured. I'm pretty sure a jig fixture and/or better hold-down can be made for this procedure, however this is all I had at the moment.

gte718p · Mar 15, 2016

That is coming out awesome. Good work!!

cgrutt · Mar 15, 2016

That looks awesome. I was going to suggest Illustrator but see that's what you wound up using. Great job!

<---- BTW, my avatar started out as a vector image created in Illustrator that I had sent out to an artist to fabricate in Nickel and Copper. It's the logo to my gun forum that I had made into a head badge for my mountain bike, LOL.

torqueman2002 · Mar 15, 2016

Nice work!

PM sent, BTW.

JZiggy · Mar 15, 2016

Wow, those are looking really great. Bayphoto does indeed do a nice job with their aluminum printing.

Pupuhd · Mar 16, 2016

McBrownie said:
Pupuhd,

Here is more info and some hopefully better pictures of the 1960's gold labels. It's hard to get a good picture of these with an iPhone. The dimensions are 2.625 wide and 3.125 long. I measured them with dial calipers and they are right on 2 5/8" by 3 1/8". They appear to be more on the glossy side. The last picture is my grinder covered in dust and you can see where I have rubbed off some of the dust around the on/off switch.

McBrownie,

Thanks for the specs and photos. I also got Torqueman to send me specs and photos on a similar one to yours in gold. I haven't yet compared the two. Sometime this weekend I'll get started in Illustrator and keep you two in touch.

David

Pupuhd · Mar 16, 2016

One thing I forgot to mention earlier, when I received the two frames last week, 8x10 and 5x5, I noticed that for arguments sake we'll call the 6 CM one image and the three others a second image, were about 1/16" of an inch larger(magnified) in both the X and Y direction. This didn't really affect me since all the badges once cut would still fit on their respected machines. I emailed them back with my concern and to see how this can be remedied for my next order with them. I was email back with the following:

"Hi David,

We do allow for an 1/8" trim of the images. As an industry standard, images are ever so slightly magnified for printing......... I would recommend adjusting the artwork slightly to see if this allows for the print you are looking for."

So basically if you don't modify your image to adjust for their printing, your tag will be roughly 1/16" larger or magnified than your original, at least for these size badges. If you can live with this and there are no constraints, then leave it be. If not, you'll have to "shrink" it to compensate for above. It's a matter of preference. Like I said for me all the badges will work as is. I'm not too worried with the Historic Police knocking down my door. However I might/will make the adjustment for my next orders.

After all the holes were drilled out, in my case, I cut the sheets of aluminum into the individual badges. Using a square and utility knife I scored about ten to twelve times then carefully bent them over the edge of a metal table.

As mentioned before the alignment pins did not sit perfectly perpendicular to the acrylic and just using hand power tools the badges did not quite fit into the lower template. With the CM one, the bottom left hole was off a few thousands. Using a jewelers round file I coerced the hole into alignment. Hey, three out of four ain't too bad, right?

The upper template then slipped down onto the pins with no issues making an aluminum sandwich........yummy.

MattVette89 · Mar 16, 2016

That looks fantastic!

pendragon1998 · Mar 16, 2016

Looking wonderful so far! I didn't want to go to this much effort to trim out my label, so I ended up printing it on a magnetic sheet; but if I had a router and the time, I might be tempted to do this as well. My preblock label is too small for bayphoto to print and trim themselves, so I'd also have to print it then cut it out of a larger sheet.

Pupuhd · Mar 16, 2016

Thanks all for the great comments. Hope this helps some one down the road.

Now for the fun part, trimming on the router table. From my collections of bits I chose a half inch flush trim router bit with the bearing on top. The bearing will ride on the upper half of the template guide.

The excess aluminum material around the badge was between 1/4" to 3/8", too much to take off in one pass. I removed about 1/8" material per pass using a Standard cut (right to left) to within a light 1/16" of the guide. Then made a final slower rate of feed as a Climb cut (left to right) up against the template guide to produce a fine finish edge.

Here's the first badge complete.

Next five were done the same way. All burrs from the back were filed off.

Before and after install of the new badge using solid aluminum rivets.

Before and after of the 1965 Craftsman "Block" Grinder. I will soon make a rebuild thread for this one also.

Next I'm experimenting with making another acrylic template guide for the AH Manual Starter Switch badge. Hopefully learning from some of the mistakes and issues from the first, this one should be a bit quicker.

pendragon1998 · Mar 16, 2016

Tell us more about the rivets, please. Looks perfect.

harleybuilder · Mar 16, 2016

Fantastic job. ..

JZiggy · Mar 16, 2016

Unbelievable. Wow.

Dennis Leigh Henry · Mar 17, 2016

Simply brilliant...

Pupuhd · Mar 17, 2016

JZiggy said:
Unbelievable. Wow.

Thanks. Btw, excellent job on your CM rebuild with the custom badge from Bayphoto, very impressive. Between yours and another thread on OWWM gave me the kick start to pickup where I left off with this grinder several months ago. Thanks again-David

torqueman2002 · Mar 17, 2016

Very impressive Pup!

I dare say, there may be a more "NIB" 1/3-HP Blocks for sale in the near future.

torqueman2002 · Mar 17, 2016

Very impressive Pup!

I dare say, there may be more "NOS" 1/3-HP Blocks for sale in the near future.

pendragon1998 · Mar 17, 2016

torqueman2002 said:
[/B]I dare say, there may be a more "NOS" 1/3-HP Blocks for sale in the near future.

I know you were kidding, but I decided when I reproduced my own label to include my initials and 'R' for 'reproduction' on the label, on the off chance I made it available to others. I'm sure it is just a conceit on my part, but I wouldn't like to pass off a reproduction label as an original. I'm not saying that's what the OP is doing, just commenting in general.

Pupuhd · Mar 17, 2016

pendragon1998 said:
Tell us more about the rivets, please. Looks perfect.

Thank you. When I first got the inclination to use actual solid rivets I didn't do my homework too well as far as availability online. The ones used I purchased on ebay for about $4 for 50. They are aluminum domed solid rivets shaft is 1/8" diameter by 1/4" length, head is .25" diameter by .10" height.

However McMasterCarr has a far better selection, mostly $5 for 250. The one similar to above the head height is .064", slightly smaller profile. These I will get next when my current stock runs out.

At that point I did some research and found out that you can use a cheapo Harbor Freight Medium Barrel Air Impact Hammer for under $10 on sale as a rivet gun.

Then I purchased on ebay a Rivet Set AN430 1/8" Round Head($10) to fit a straight .401 shank rivet gun.

Basically those air impact hammers have a .401" diameter female shaft opening the same as those high end expensive rivet guns. Same gun, one is modified to pound rivets all day while mine, well "it does the job" for me for under $30 total cost. Thing to note is the Rivet Set tip has to match the rivet head profile you intend to use. The concave profile on the tip will fit over the 1/4" diameter head on the rivets I have. To keep it on the inexpensive side I used a piece of 1/2" thick steel bar stock as a Bucking Bar.

Here's my setup, you'll noticed my Bucking Bar in the vise. Also, it's recommended to use about 40psi pressure. Three to four quick burst of the trigger will set these aluminum rivets in a couple of seconds. Btw, I'm in no way setting these according to aircraft specs, I believe the rivet shaft end when compressed is called the Upset: diameter should be 1.5 times the diameter of the rivet shaft and the Upset thickness .5 times the diameter of the rivet shaft. Heck I just want the badge to stay put.

Back side showing the Upset of the rivets. Also the same procedure done for the brass etched Rebuild Badge I created.

Hope this helps and again thanks-David

pendragon1998 · Mar 17, 2016

Holy cow, I had no idea you could do solid rivets on the cheap like that! I guess I am going to HF this weekend.

Pupuhd · Mar 18, 2016

pendragon1998 said:
Holy cow, I had no idea you could do solid rivets on the cheap like that! I guess I am going to HF this weekend.

Yeah, me too. Usually the pro rivet guns start at about $100 without any tips. The HF one is usually $13. I think I got mine for $8 after $10 sale price plus 20% off coupon. I had to return it back twice because the internal ram was rubbing inside and causing it to jam up. On the third try I took it apart and hand filed the internal ram, new o-rings, cleanup and oil and it runs like a champ now.

I was going to mill a chisel point tip to the proper profile, I saw it done somewhere online. However my metal lathe is not up and running yet and it was just faster to purchase one online for $14 with shipping.

Good luck-David

356vintage · Mar 18, 2016

As mentioned by others......Excellent work!!
Fantastic attention to detail and process.
Thanks for showing your work and offering it to those of us restoring our machines.
Cheers,
Rich

Machine Name Plate Tag Reproduction

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member