Nuts
Well-known member
Sniff.... brought a tear to my eye.
Nuts
Nuts
Above 1200 Sq/FT Restored 1930's Auto Shop
- Thread starter BB767
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
markviii
Well-known member
I was thinking ahead about the t-shirt. It somehow ended up with a grease stain on the front which I hope comes out. Tom was working up to the time that Rian and Dennis arrived, so no time for a quick change. There was a lot of ground to cover in the time we had together.
What a fun full day we had! Thanks for joining us, Rian and Dennis.
Chris
What a fun full day we had! Thanks for joining us, Rian and Dennis.
Chris
1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
Knyte Tyne
Well-known member
6 months, and I've finally reached the (temporary) End of one of the most incredible reads ever. To think the years that have been involved in achieving what has been completed, and the fantastic convenience of being able to experience it all in a few months on my end. What an Incredible Community of individuals, advice, and even general tom-foolery that this thread has brought together. Where some people might have looked at your initial undertaking as insane I would go so far as to say I would DREAM of an opportunity to get my hands dirty to experience even the slightest amount of "Discovery" that you both have achieved. Tom you are that which a young man can look up to and hope to achieve even a fractions worth of life by the time I am ready for retirement (PLENTY years to still go) and Chris you are the embodiment of what any gear head, workshop nut, or general go getter and do'er would wish for in a partner.
I have plenty of pages Bookmarked throughout this thread for general reference towards my own ideas and creations that have been given life though this thread and its followers, um, excuse me... FAMILY!!! While the current long journey that I set out upon six months ago has reached a destination, I know there is still plenty of road left on this trip to the Journey to the center of the Universe... If ever there were a reason, better than any other, to leave South Africa to the US for a holiday, it would be just so I could come enjoy a "Soda-pop" (is that the correct american Slang? lol) and take in the Awesomeness of what you have achieved in person...
Better than any television show, or any "Tourist" attraction... I look forward to another "Episode" in the Restored 1930's Auto Shop
I have plenty of pages Bookmarked throughout this thread for general reference towards my own ideas and creations that have been given life though this thread and its followers, um, excuse me... FAMILY!!! While the current long journey that I set out upon six months ago has reached a destination, I know there is still plenty of road left on this trip to the Journey to the center of the Universe... If ever there were a reason, better than any other, to leave South Africa to the US for a holiday, it would be just so I could come enjoy a "Soda-pop" (is that the correct american Slang? lol) and take in the Awesomeness of what you have achieved in person...
Better than any television show, or any "Tourist" attraction... I look forward to another "Episode" in the Restored 1930's Auto Shop
Grizz1963
Well-known member
Thank you Chris, the shop, house, property and you two plus the time I spent with Dennis driving that Purple haze of a Hemi Challenger and your unselfish warm hospitaluty will forever be etched in my memory.
Thomas was still in his work clothes when we landed. He disappeared for 5 minutes and came back looking cool as a cucumber to assist Chris in our 6 hr guided tour.
I know I cost the two of you 6hrs house build time and some of your awesome Pumpkin Pie but I dont care.
Our day, no, year was made spending time at the COTU
One last thank you from Dennis and me. Also for all the gifts which I will write up later when I catch up on my thread and writing up my road trip experience.
Off to Arkansas today. George Poteets place tomorrow.
Teemore
New member
Another nice series of updates.
Thomas, is there a chance I spotted a "glimpse" of you on UK television last night? A motorbike racer by the name of Guy Martin has a TV show which last night focused upon his 2016 attempts to set a land speed record at Bonneville in a Triumph Streamliner. At one point the camera swept past a gentleman sitting back enjoying the sun in the pit area and he looked a touch like yourself.
Thomas, is there a chance I spotted a "glimpse" of you on UK television last night? A motorbike racer by the name of Guy Martin has a TV show which last night focused upon his 2016 attempts to set a land speed record at Bonneville in a Triumph Streamliner. At one point the camera swept past a gentleman sitting back enjoying the sun in the pit area and he looked a touch like yourself.
stillp
Well-known member
What's the best thread on the internet doing all that way down on page 7?
Pete
Pete
markviii
Well-known member
It seems that threads go down at least 3 pages if they're not posted to every day (at least in the Garage Gallery)! That's a good thing for GJ and keeps all the thread authors on their toes if they want to stay in the game.
I notice that a lot of the top-page-count threads have a group of people who post to all of them. This tends to tie the threads together somehow and adds to the "community" we've built here on GJ.
It's all good!
Chris
P.S. to stillp -- thanks for counting us among the best threads!
I notice that a lot of the top-page-count threads have a group of people who post to all of them. This tends to tie the threads together somehow and adds to the "community" we've built here on GJ.
It's all good!
Chris
P.S. to stillp -- thanks for counting us among the best threads!
There will be a time capsule behind the corner stone. I'm still thinking about what it might contain...
...besides the gold bar found in the tool shed of course.
It is irregular in shape but is nicely sized at 1,100 square feet (102 square meters). I'd have loved to have 3 overhead openings, but I'd have to had cut down more trees in that case. I didn't cut them so the house just has 2 overhead doors. I've got plenty of vehicle storage with the barn and old shop as it is.
Well you'd like to think so but I wasn't in any pit area with a Triumph Streamliner.....at least I don't think I was????
Well Pete blame me for that. Every night I keep thinking I'll post an update but the truth is, by golly I'm just too tired. Now that all the masonry is completed (we finished the chimney flashing and counter flashing yesterday) I hope to shorten my work days a bit.
Here's how the chimney looks all decked out in copper step flashing...
The "cricket" on the backside...
...is all copper as well. All the copper joints were soldered.
There has been much more...
...going on. Please check back.
Thomas
stillp
Well-known member
stillp
Well-known member
Thomas, I kind of guessed at the reason for the lack of updates, but I thought your thread deserved a bump. I can only imagine how tired you must be at the end of the day, so we all have to forgive you for the occasional lapse in posting! I get tired just reading how much you've done.
Pete
Pete
PINCHIEGRINGO
New member
- Joined
- Sep 30, 2016
- Messages
- 1
Just another Lurker coming out to say WOW. I came across this while looking for ideas on making my garage a more useful space and them I saw it "Restored 1930's Auto Shop". I have spent the last 10 days reading, and reading, and reading some more and fighting the urge to comment until I was done. This has been by far the greatest thing I have read or seen on the internet, I mean where else can you learn about restoring old tools, lifts, and buildings to wood working and German casters and New Home construction all in one place. Thomas and Chris Thank you so much for sharing these years with us, Thank you for being The great people you are I have gone through many emotions reading this and wish I found it sooner. How ever now that I have found it I for sure will not forget it. There is so much knowledge and information in here I will always be coming back. Thanks Again for all of it
C_F
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Uh-oh, looks like you had a small tornado go through there? Half the roof is missing from the old garage over there.
Boosted1
Well-known member
Great pics of you and Chris.
Still enjoying your updates.
Keep'em coming! Please.
Still enjoying your updates.
Keep'em coming! Please.
markviii
Well-known member
No tornado, C_F. The garage roof didn't blow away to Kansas. But the view is certainly improved! The entire structure is now gone. All that remains is the slab which will be taken away soon. Tom's been working hard on the landscaping with the weather being so nice. We should see some grass soon.
Chris
Chris
I know exactly how you got that grease stain.
You were assisting Rian sort through treasures from the tool shed...
...that he took back home with him to the UK. These are but a few of his treasures.
Here's a warm welcome Knyte Tyne to you for visiting with all of us here. Thank you so very much for posting such kind thoughts about all of us. It's a great bunch of folks here that I'm proud to call my friends. Some I've met and all the others I hope to.
"Soda-pop"is the correct term.
Here Rian and Dennis enjoy a cold soda-pop from the old Pepsi machine during their visit. I'd be honored if you were ever to find your way to the shop door for a visit, anytime.
Rian, the thing that really impressed me the most about you was...
...even though the 2 car garage was being dismantled (note the guys removing the roof over your head!!), you still dove into the building to sort through all the remains of tools shed items and came up with a few gems to take back to the UK. Debris was raining down all about you, but you held your ground and sorted through everything. Well done sir!!
Have a safe journey home and come back anytime.
No argument from me Pete!
She's a trooper! You have NO idea of all the crazy "stuff" I've gotten her involved in through the years but she's always come through it all...
....with that infectious smile of hers. I'm positively smitten.......
Hi PINCHIEGRINGO and welcome sir! As I've stated many times but it's still true, doing this thread has been a real treat for both Chris and myself. I'm pleased it's been so well received by you and many others. The friendships we've made here either via the thread or in person are the best part of it all IMHO. I hope you'll come back to check in from time to time, I'm always up to some kind of mischief!
Uh-oh, looks like you had a small tornado go through there? Half the roof is missing from the old garage over there.
Sharp eye C_F.
More than half the roof is missing from the old 2 car garage.
In fact the old 2 car garage is missing! Not to worry, it's being moved to another location, just like the Honey House and will be rebuild and live on to serve another useful life elsewhere.
Thomas
Chimney Crown Creation- CCC/SSRAP
Here's a closer look...
...at what's involved in the Chimney Crown Creation, CCC, on top of the chimney.
First off you need a Strong, Strapping Retired Airline Pilot or a SSRAP because they're not afraid of heights.
Since no one else was around, I volunteered for that role. I'm wearing hearing protection since, as you can see, rebar is being cut to length at the lower right.
The chimney brick work was topped of with corbels that serve two functions. First it looks cool and second...
...it provides a place to lay rebar inside the chimney. That's the flue to the left.
4" concrete blocks and common bricks are laid on top of the rebar. They will provide the base of the concrete form we're going to build.
A pre-made metal concrete form, 5" high was placed on top of the last brick course. To prevent concrete from oozing through between the block and brick, tar paper was laid. Note that thin foam was wrapped around the flue tile. That will allow room for the flue to expand from heat and still not crack the concrete crown or the flue tile itself. You can also see the copper lightning rod cable next to the flue.
Here's another view of our form now ready to pour concrete.
Keep in mind we're over 25' (7.6 m) in the air so to pour concrete up there...
...we hoisted a tub of mixed concrete with the LULL up to us. From there, Tim shoveled a bucket full and handed it up to us which we then poured into the form, one bucket at a time. Kind of like how the Pyramids were built, one bucket at a time......or something like that.
As the concrete was poured, it was my job to place and run a Sawzall, without the blade installed, all around the outside of the metal concrete form. The vibration from the shoe of the Sawzall against the metal form helped settle the concrete as it was poured and prevent voids in it. A poor mans concrete ******** if you will and it worked like a champ!
Here's the concrete after it was all poured. The wire tie in the middle was to prevent the sides of the concrete form from bulging out.
That's my buddy Steve, master fireplace constructor, troweling the concrete.
Here's a look at the form installed at the very top of the chimney from the ground.
After the concrete had dried sufficiently, naturally I signed it with our names.
Two days later, after the concrete had cured enough, the outer form was removed...
...and the excess foam around the flue was trimmed off in preparation for caulking the crown...
...and all the concrete crumbs were swept away as well.
I highly recommend always using a caulking primer to ensure a good bond between the concrete and the caulk...
...in this case Dymonic FC, in a bronze color.
Here's the flue and lightning rod cable sealed. To tool the caulk, put a couple of drops of dish washing liquid into some water and dip your finger in the solution. Then as you tool the caulk, your finger won't stick to it. It leaves a nice cove.
Like the flue, the bottom of the crown concrete was sealed to the brick to prevent moisture infiltration and eventual failure of that joint.
I might also point out that dye was added to the concrete mix so it wouldn't be bright white. Notice how that new concrete blends in nicely with the brick.
That's a proper chimney crown, all sealed weather tight, ready to go with any luck, for a 100 years or more. Lastly a stainless steel rain cap will be constructed and secured to the crown. That will keep birds and other critters out and minimize rain water from coming down the flue.
So you can see all the steps necessary just to do the crown on the chimney if you're going to do it correctly and not cut corners. This house is filled with all sorts of small, unseen details like that which makes it a cut above an ordinary home I think. Since I'm building it for myself, I'm willing to put in the time, money and mainly effort into making it a one-of-a -kind home. I'm building one for the ages.
Much more in store, please check back.
Thomas
Here's a closer look...
...at what's involved in the Chimney Crown Creation, CCC, on top of the chimney.
First off you need a Strong, Strapping Retired Airline Pilot or a SSRAP because they're not afraid of heights.
Since no one else was around, I volunteered for that role. I'm wearing hearing protection since, as you can see, rebar is being cut to length at the lower right.
The chimney brick work was topped of with corbels that serve two functions. First it looks cool and second...
...it provides a place to lay rebar inside the chimney. That's the flue to the left.
4" concrete blocks and common bricks are laid on top of the rebar. They will provide the base of the concrete form we're going to build.
A pre-made metal concrete form, 5" high was placed on top of the last brick course. To prevent concrete from oozing through between the block and brick, tar paper was laid. Note that thin foam was wrapped around the flue tile. That will allow room for the flue to expand from heat and still not crack the concrete crown or the flue tile itself. You can also see the copper lightning rod cable next to the flue.
Here's another view of our form now ready to pour concrete.
Keep in mind we're over 25' (7.6 m) in the air so to pour concrete up there...
...we hoisted a tub of mixed concrete with the LULL up to us. From there, Tim shoveled a bucket full and handed it up to us which we then poured into the form, one bucket at a time. Kind of like how the Pyramids were built, one bucket at a time......or something like that.
As the concrete was poured, it was my job to place and run a Sawzall, without the blade installed, all around the outside of the metal concrete form. The vibration from the shoe of the Sawzall against the metal form helped settle the concrete as it was poured and prevent voids in it. A poor mans concrete ******** if you will and it worked like a champ!
Here's the concrete after it was all poured. The wire tie in the middle was to prevent the sides of the concrete form from bulging out.
That's my buddy Steve, master fireplace constructor, troweling the concrete.
Here's a look at the form installed at the very top of the chimney from the ground.
After the concrete had dried sufficiently, naturally I signed it with our names.
Two days later, after the concrete had cured enough, the outer form was removed...
...and the excess foam around the flue was trimmed off in preparation for caulking the crown...
...and all the concrete crumbs were swept away as well.
I highly recommend always using a caulking primer to ensure a good bond between the concrete and the caulk...
...in this case Dymonic FC, in a bronze color.
Here's the flue and lightning rod cable sealed. To tool the caulk, put a couple of drops of dish washing liquid into some water and dip your finger in the solution. Then as you tool the caulk, your finger won't stick to it. It leaves a nice cove.
Like the flue, the bottom of the crown concrete was sealed to the brick to prevent moisture infiltration and eventual failure of that joint.
I might also point out that dye was added to the concrete mix so it wouldn't be bright white. Notice how that new concrete blends in nicely with the brick.
That's a proper chimney crown, all sealed weather tight, ready to go with any luck, for a 100 years or more. Lastly a stainless steel rain cap will be constructed and secured to the crown. That will keep birds and other critters out and minimize rain water from coming down the flue.
So you can see all the steps necessary just to do the crown on the chimney if you're going to do it correctly and not cut corners. This house is filled with all sorts of small, unseen details like that which makes it a cut above an ordinary home I think. Since I'm building it for myself, I'm willing to put in the time, money and mainly effort into making it a one-of-a -kind home. I'm building one for the ages.
Much more in store, please check back.
Thomas
Last edited:
djones1a
Well-known member
Thanks for you guys taking time out of your day to show me and Rian around,we had so much fun seeing the shop that i had read so much about.You are a true craftsman with a eye for detail. The story you told about the flathead intake manifold you told i will never forget.And your grandpa's toolbox was something that was amazing to me,after all these years how good shape it was in and you still use it.Thanks for the trinkets, they all found a happy home.
panthersteve
Well-known member
Re: Chimney Crown Creation- CCC/SSRAP
Sorry to appear pedantic but as a high voltage test guy that has had to type test for lightning protection I know the correct word to use.
It isn't lighting, nor is it lightening, it should be lightning.
Cheers
Steve
Sorry to appear pedantic but as a high voltage test guy that has had to type test for lightning protection I know the correct word to use.
It isn't lighting, nor is it lightening, it should be lightning.
Cheers
Steve
Re: Chimney Crown Creation- CCC/SSRAP
Yes of course, you're 100% correct Steve. Thank you so much for the correction. I knew better but it just went over my head. I've posted material and then later re-read it and found all kinds of errors, thinking to myself, how in the world did I miss that! That will just have to join the crooked switch plate cover as one of my more enduring faults and I've got tons of those!
I predict you'll do well on the test. Chris is pretty persnickety about mangled grammar.
Mea culpa.
Properly chastised Thomas
Sorry to appear pedantic but as a high voltage test guy that has had to type test for lightning protection I know the correct word to use.
It isn't lighting, nor is it lightening, it should be lightning.
Cheers
Steve
Yes of course, you're 100% correct Steve. Thank you so much for the correction.
I knew better but it just went over my head. I've posted material and then later re-read it and found all kinds of errors, thinking to myself, how in the world did I miss that! That will just have to join the crooked switch plate cover as one of my more enduring faults and I've got tons of those!I predict you'll do well on the test. Chris is pretty persnickety about mangled grammar.
Mea culpa.
Properly chastised Thomas
drivesitfar
Well-known member
BB: i've never had enough time to read all your thread, but every time i check in something else is going on that i really like so decided to post and catch up as i can. i love the brick and the fireplace is awesome. also thanks for the tip on the dishwasher soap and caulking cause i've never been any good at that job.
keep up the great work and looking forward to seeing more progress next time i pop in.
cheers
keep up the great work and looking forward to seeing more progress next time i pop in.
cheers
bulletpruf
Well-known member
Thomas -
As always, thanks for posting the details of your work. It's interesting and educational.
Scott
As always, thanks for posting the details of your work. It's interesting and educational.
Scott
red
Well-known member
Thomas, thanks for the details on the crown!
Craftsmanship at it's best.
Of course when we did my chimney crown, I didn't know about using foam, but we did cap it with blue stone to keep the water off it.
Craftsmanship at it's best.
Of course when we did my chimney crown, I didn't know about using foam, but we did cap it with blue stone to keep the water off it.
donnie
Well-known member
I am still impressed with your attention to detail on everything you have done and are doing. I have not commented in a long time on this thread but I check everyday for update. Thanks for allowing us to follow along on your life. One question do you carry a camera with you during the build or are you using your phone? Impressed that you think to take pictures during the build.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
bryceaugustine
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2013
- Messages
- 56
TIMI
Well-known member
I knew that you are a happy people. But to be so.
markviii
Well-known member
Yes, we are happy people, TIMI! But, we will be happier when the house is complete and ready for moving in. Some difficult work still needs to be completed (painting, wood trim work, flooring, cabinets, appliance installation, installation of lighting fixtures, then the final moving of furnishings, clothes, kitchen stuff. We will hopefully be in by Christmas. That will make us very happy people!
Welcome to our piece of the Universe.
And, Donnie, yes, all of the pictures are from Tom's cameras, not a cell phone (it's attached to his belt). He doesn't have a phone that takes pictures. His digital camera takes much better pics than my smartphone camera.
Chris
Welcome to our piece of the Universe.
And, Donnie, yes, all of the pictures are from Tom's cameras, not a cell phone (it's attached to his belt). He doesn't have a phone that takes pictures. His digital camera takes much better pics than my smartphone camera.
Chris
You've got a nice Walker floor jack there bryceaugustine! That's the big one, a 4 ton unit. Once you get it operational it'll lift virtually anything you have a need for. Except for the cover plate and nose piece it appears to be in decent condition and worthy of your best efforts to restore it. Unfortunately, missing cover plates is somewhat common and those nose covers are pretty rare. Start your search for replacements but in the meantime you can still use the jack. Thanks for sharing the pictures.
Best of luck with it and congratulations on a nice find. Keep us posted.
Thomas
bryceaugustine
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2013
- Messages
- 56
You've got a nice Walker floor jack there bryceaugustine! That's the big one, a 4 ton unit. Once you get it operational it'll lift virtually anything you have a need for. Except for the cover plate and nose piece it appears to be in decent condition and worthy of your best efforts to restore it. Unfortunately, missing cover plates is somewhat common and those nose covers are pretty rare. Start your search for replacements but in the meantime you can still use the jack. Thanks for sharing the pictures.
Best of luck with it and congratulations on a nice find. Keep us posted.
Thomas
Thanks. I have been looking back in this thread and others and am getting confused. What year range do you think mine is? Do i need to look for stamping marks to determine?
Sweet Old Bill
Well-known member
Bryce,
The second patent number 1,621,314 was issued on March 15, 1927. That would be the absolute earliest date. 1930's or later is far more likely. The missing pieces would have helped to date, they were made of thinner, stamped metal, as time went by. The great news is that you have a great jack. As you read through Thomas' Magnum Opus, take care to note Hi-Ball's website. He helped Thomas with parts & rebuilding of his jacks. Summit Racing still sells the red lifting point pads that Thomas has on his Walkers.
Enjoy yours!
The second patent number 1,621,314 was issued on March 15, 1927. That would be the absolute earliest date. 1930's or later is far more likely. The missing pieces would have helped to date, they were made of thinner, stamped metal, as time went by. The great news is that you have a great jack. As you read through Thomas' Magnum Opus, take care to note Hi-Ball's website. He helped Thomas with parts & rebuilding of his jacks. Summit Racing still sells the red lifting point pads that Thomas has on his Walkers.
Enjoy yours!
dpljmurphy
Well-known member
stillp
Well-known member
Thomas, is the special blade on the reciprocating saw very thick to prevent walking/wipping and cutting too deep? Interesting tool. Thomas, I just have to ask. Since you are working so many hours on the new house, who is excercising that fine collection of cars?
Dennis I've been negligent and not answered your questions......but I'll correct that.
The reciprocating saw foam shear used by the Sealtite Insulation folks is a rather interesting piece.
Since they work primarily with foam insulation, they developed and manufacture this special shear to trim excess foam from wall cavities.
It's basically a Sawzall with a new head piece.
The head piece allows the blade to be mounted offset from the center-line of the saw.
By doing that, the saw blade is almost parallel with the wall surface so it can be trimmed in a sweeping movement. The blade is placed against the wall studs which limits how far into the wall space the blade can go.
The blades are designed to be long enough so that a 9' (2.7 m) wall, like my house, can be trimmed without using a ladder. Very handy. Note there are mounting holes on the far end of the blade. That allows the blade to be turned around and reused when one end gets dull which extends the life of the blade.
The blades have 7-8 teeth per inch. I was intrigued...
...when I saw it in use. Never seen anything like it before. Very clever.
Now for your excellent question about who is exercising all my cars............
unfortunately no one is and they've got the dust on them to prove it.
I do get them out on a rare occasion, but it's usually several weeks in between. I'm taking one for the team this year and it's killing me to not be able to drive them as much as I'd like. Wait till next year!!!!
Thomas
SiGmA_X
Well-known member
Very cool foam trimmer. How did the drywall wrap up? Fantastic?
Thomas, I both must thank you and curse you. You have caused me to ensure my screws are all clocked everywhere these days... I never use to worry about it in the garage, now I don't *worry* about it - I just ensure they're clocked vs where they stopped!
Roman
Thomas, I both must thank you and curse you. You have caused me to ensure my screws are all clocked everywhere these days... I never use to worry about it in the garage, now I don't *worry* about it - I just ensure they're clocked vs where they stopped!
Roman
MetalMangler
Well-known member
Ok, so now I've got to ask a question... To my mind to clock a screw you have to either overtighten it or loosen it... The first would seem to either not be guaranteed (maybe you can't tighten it far enough to get it clocked, or you risk stripping the threads involved), while the other would seem to make the screw more prone to unclocking itself over time.
Is there a trick to proper clocking?
(I know, I know... Tons of material on how to properly cap a chimney or move a honey-house, and I'm asking for details on how to clock a screw
)MM
panthersteve
Well-known member
Ok, so now I've got to ask a question... To my mind to clock a screw you have to either overtighten it or loosen it... The first would seem to either not be guaranteed (maybe you can't tighten it far enough to get it clocked, or you risk stripping the threads involved), while the other would seem to make the screw more prone to unclocking itself over time.
Is there a trick to proper clocking?
(I know, I know... Tons of material on how to properly cap a chimney or move a honey-house, and I'm asking for details on how to clock a screw
MM
I have been wondering this exact same thing, I look forward to the answer
Ok, so now I've got to ask a question... To my mind to clock a screw you have to either overtighten it or loosen it... The first would seem to either not be guaranteed (maybe you can't tighten it far enough to get it clocked, or you risk stripping the threads involved), while the other would seem to make the screw more prone to unclocking itself over time.
Is there a trick to proper clocking?
(I know, I know... Tons of material on how to properly cap a chimney or move a honey-house, and I'm asking for details on how to clock a screw
MM
I have been wondering this exact same thing, I look forward to the answer
That's a very good question and the best answer is......it depends. It depends on whats being clocked first of all. Some fasteners are not critical as to their exact tightness...
...think a crooked switch plate cover for example.
There's a range of tightness that's acceptable.If you pay attention as it's being tightened you'll get a sense of when it's getting snug.
Once it's tight, if another 1/4 turn would strip it, back it off 1/4 to properly clock it.
Backing it off that 1/4 turn wouldn't loosen it up enough to cause a problem.
Another way to look at it, as the screw is being tightened once you pass 12 o'clock and approaching 3 o'clock would you risk stripping it going all the way to 6 o'clock?
If yes, back it off to 12 o'clock, if not, go ahead and tighten to 6 o'clock. It takes some practice but is very doable.
(BTW, yes the bottom left screw is positioned at 12:30 but nobody notices it. They're mesmerized by the crookedness of the cover plate instead.)
Now some fasteners are critical in their tightness so the priority is correct tightness and you can't worry about clocking them.
Anything that is tightened to a torque spec would be in this group.
Then there are other screws it's just not possible to clock no matter what.
For example when I was installing the cover plate on the air meter I wanted them snug but didn't want to risk stripping them so the priority was correct tightness.
The result is some un-clocked screws.
So be it, it's not a perfect world after all is it?Other screws use nuts on the back side so...
...you can position the slots on the front side...
...so they line up clocked.
Philips headed screws are probably the easiest to clock. You need only 1/8 turn to clock them so the risk of stripping them is negligible.
It all comes down to a mind set I think. I clock where possible but I don't get too wrapped around the axle if I can't. I take a lot of personal satisfaction out of the whole process.
Did that help you guys or muddled it worse than ever?
Trying to be helpful Thomas
mybigwarwagon
Well-known member
I just figured you kept trying more screws till you got four that matched.
I just figured you kept trying more screws till you got four that matched.
Isn't that how you index spark plugs?
Thomas
Vernmotor
Well-known member
I do not think you could of explain it any better