Above 1200 Sq/FT The Lone Beech Garage (60x46x16)

sbosecker · Oct 17, 2017

Re: The Lone Beech Garage Build Thread (60x46)

Tuesday - October 17, 2017

Today I was able to deal with the sheet of 18 gauge sheet metal that has been sitting on the dollies for about 2 weeks.

I went to the house's basement and checked out my lumber rack. Up on top with the sheet goods were the pieces of OSB & 2x2's that I had used to mock-up the lip of the Tornado Shelter. The mock-up had allowed me to measure the real-world amount of space that would be required by the grates covering the Tornado Shelter. I had forgotten that these items had been squirreled away in the lumber rack but I could use them to build my sheet metal storage solution.

The strips of wood used for the mock-up were 8-feet long so they fit the long edges of the 4x8 sheet of steel perfectly. A bit of cutting and pasting... OK, cutting and fastening... and the steel sheet was secure in the frame.

I rolled the frame with the steel over to the long bay and then leaned it up against the wall for storage. The storage frame isn't the most elegant solution but it will work for the time being.

Scott

matt_i · Oct 18, 2017

Re: The Lone Beech Garage Build Thread (60x46)

Hi, great to see your Dad made it down for a visit and it sounds like you made some nice improvements to his van. I can see the Tornado Shelter is very helpful when it comes to this type of work.

Looking at your fresh sheetmetal it might be a good idea to spray it down with a bit of LPS3 - rust preventative. I am not sure of your humidity situation indoors but it always seems in my case that the metal is great when put into storage and then requires a lot of prep (rust removal) at some time in the future when its finally time to put it into use. I'm not even sure I'm following my own advice here

have to check tomorrow.

sbosecker · Oct 21, 2017

Re: The Lone Beech Garage Build Thread (60x46)

matt_i said:
Hi, great to see your Dad made it down for a visit and it sounds like you made some nice improvements to his van. I can see the Tornado Shelter is very helpful when it comes to this type of work.

Looking at your fresh sheetmetal it might be a good idea to spray it down with a bit of LPS3 - rust preventative. I am not sure of your humidity situation indoors but it always seems in my case that the metal is great when put into storage and then requires a lot of prep (rust removal) at some time in the future when its finally time to put it into use. I'm not even sure I'm following my own advice here have to check tomorrow.

matt_i

While I have a 2-post lift, I've found the multi-tasking Tornado Shelter to be more convenient for many tasks.

I did a bit of research into LPS3 rust preventative... looks like an interesting product. Any idea what stores normally carry it?

Best regards,

Scott

sbosecker · Oct 21, 2017

Re: The Lone Beech Garage Build Thread (60x46)

Friday - October 21, 2017

I have ordered a large machine that might require the use of the loading dock to receive it.

This motivated me to retrieve an item from the basement that I acquired via Craigslist a few years ago: A 10,000 pound capacity Dock Board.

Well... at least it was 10,000 pound capacity when it was new. One of the frames has a cracked weld that needs to be repaired.

Today I spent a bit of time removing the half-dozen fasteners the secured the cracked frame to the aluminum plate.

I was thinking it would be a simple matter to clean up the old weld with a grinder and then bring the "crack" together with a pipe clamp so that it could be welded.

Wrong!
Bringing the cracked area together is going to require more force than a pipe clamp can provide.

Suggestions would be appreciated on how to provide enough force to persuade each side of the crack to come together. The steel the frame is made of is 1/4" thick.

I don't know if I can come up with some way for my shop press to do this or not. This may be a question for the Fabrication & Techniques topic area.

Scott

camarosrus69 · Oct 21, 2017

Re: The Lone Beech Garage Build Thread (60x46)

If it were mine, I would throw some heat at it in the form of an acetylene torch. I can't tell from the picture, but I'm guessing that the crack is on both sides. If that is the case, all you need to do is heat the top edge until it gets a bit pliable and work it back into place. if you don't have a torch handy you could just cut it into two pieces and then grind the edges as needed, to match, and weld it back together.

Upon second glance, I see it is a C-channel so there is no two sides.

Ole Slewfoot · Oct 21, 2017

Re: The Lone Beech Garage Build Thread (60x46)

Quick and dirty? set the short end crack side up on a wood block, maybe notched to keep it upright. lay a 4x4, 2x8, or bigger atop the middle of the long side as a ramp.
Drive a vehicle up the ramp till the gap is closed.

Add a bit of plate to the inner side of the C to make it a box structure where the seam is...both brace pieces if you think you will be using it hard. a <> shaped fish plate over the outside of the repair also helps to spread the load

shortykorte · Oct 21, 2017

The Lone Beech Garage Build Thread (60x46)

what they said. Lol
Where the aluminum breaks at angle, have you checked the angle to make sure that side matches the other? With that weld break, seems like the ramp might have been tweaked flatter.

So we have to wait for the delivery to find out what it is. Suspense, keeps us coming back. [emoji106]

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drivesitfar · Oct 21, 2017

Re: The Lone Beech Garage Build Thread (60x46)

SB: if you can't use one of the tips to pull it together maybe putting a patch on it might be a quick solution. it might not look as neat as trying to clean up the crack and welding it, but maybe it will work. i'm just throwing out an idea cause i wanted to help and i can't really see the crack very well in the pics even with my new glasses.

so are you going to tell us what is going to be delivered or do you want us to guess?

a FORK LIFT??

maybe another LATHE?

camarosrus69 · Oct 21, 2017

Re: The Lone Beech Garage Build Thread (60x46)

deleted

camarosrus69 · Oct 21, 2017

Re: The Lone Beech Garage Build Thread (60x46)

Looking at a magnified view of the failure, it appears that the weld failed,and not the material around it. A sure sign of a poor weld. It also looks like the weld only goes down the side of the channel, and not along the bottom. A weld like that would put high stress loads on the end of the weld, and cause it to fail like a zipper. The weld should go the entire length, which I'm sure you've guessed. I would check the other channel and upgrade the weld if it is done the same way.

sbosecker · Oct 21, 2017

Re: The Lone Beech Garage Build Thread (60x46)

Ole Slewfoot said:
Quick and dirty? set the short end crack side up on a wood block, maybe notched to keep it upright. lay a 4x4, 2x8, or bigger atop the middle of the long side as a ramp.
Drive a vehicle up the ramp till the gap is closed.

Add a bit of plate to the inner side of the C to make it a box structure where the seam is...both brace pieces if you think you will be using it hard. a <> shaped fish plate over the outside of the repair also helps to spread the load

Ole Slewfoot,

I like the idea of using a vehicle to apply pressure to the beam to try to get it to close up the gap. I will probably try this.

Best regards,

Scott

sbosecker · Oct 21, 2017

Re: The Lone Beech Garage Build Thread (60x46)

shortykorte said:
what they said. Lol
Where the aluminum breaks at angle, have you checked the angle to make sure that side matches the other? With that weld break, seems like the ramp might have been tweaked flatter.

So we have to wait for the delivery to find out what it is. Suspense, keeps us coming back. [emoji106]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

drivesitfar said:
SB: if you can't use one of the tips to pull it together maybe putting a patch on it might be a quick solution. it might not look as neat as trying to clean up the crack and welding it, but maybe it will work. i'm just throwing out an idea cause i wanted to help and i can't really see the crack very well in the pics even with my new glasses.

so are you going to tell us what is going to be delivered or do you want us to guess?

a FORK LIFT??

maybe another LATHE?

shortykorte & DrivesItFar,

The aluminum plate probably is a bit deformed but the mounting holes have some "slop" in them that (I think) would allow the repaired part to be mounted to the plate.

A welded patch seems like another viable option.

As to the delivered machine...

I'm going to wait until I get news it is on it's way before I unveil what it is.

I know, I'm a tease. Ha!

Zoro.com sent me a 25% off ($2000 max) promotion code this past week. I used it on this machine - I was VERY surprised that my purchase wasn't excluded in the "small print".

Part of the reason I'm waiting for the reveal is I'm concerned I'm going to get an email from Zoro saying, "Sorry, we should not have allowed that promotion code to be applied to your purchase."

Feel free to guess though. No correct guesses so far.

Best regards,

Scott

sbosecker · Oct 21, 2017

Re: The Lone Beech Garage Build Thread (60x46)

camarosrus69 said:
If it were mine, I would throw some heat at it in the form of an acetylene torch. I can't tell from the picture, but I'm guessing that the crack is on both sides. If that is the case, all you need to do is heat the top edge until it gets a bit pliable and work it back into place. if you don't have a torch handy you could just cut it into two pieces and then grind the edges as needed, to match, and weld it back together.

Upon second glance, I see it is a C-channel so there is no two sides.

camarosrus69 said:
Looking at a magnified view of the failure, it appears that the weld failed,and not the material around it. A sure sign of a poor weld. It also looks like the weld only goes down the side of the channel, and not along the bottom. A weld like that would put high stress loads on the end of the weld, and cause it to fail like a zipper. The weld should go the entire length, which I'm sure you've guessed. I would check the other channel and upgrade the weld if it is done the same way.

camarosrus69,

I agree it appears that the weld failed.

Here's a couple more pictures that I think show the joint better than the previous images.

Best regards,

Scott

drivesitfar · Oct 21, 2017

Re: The Lone Beech Garage Build Thread (60x46)

SB: best of luck with the ramp and Zoro!!

CNC?????

matt_i · Oct 22, 2017

Re: The Lone Beech Garage Build Thread (60x46)

I think the best solution has been mentioned, oxyacet torch to heat the part you need to bend until bright orange. Then it should bend by hand.

The other possibility is to cut it completely thru the rest of the way. Grind out the old weld and back-bevel both sides, fixture and weld back up. For structural things I always go with the "old reliable" 7018 stick on DC+....which can be had in std 1/8" dia rods or 3/32" if needed for smaller stuff.

I have gotten a lot of MSC 35% off codes in email and many times tried a large purchase for a Suburban Tool master-grind...but it always failed on 35% and defaulted to somewhere around 8-9% when I got to the "cart" stage and so I always backed out. But then serenipity struck and I found a great lightly used one for even less and I am a happy camper. Hopefully you will get your tracking number soon!!

shortykorte · Oct 22, 2017

Re: The Lone Beech Garage Build Thread (60x46)

I have two guesses. Something from Zoro or a 220v welder.

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jriltex · Oct 22, 2017

Re: The Lone Beech Garage Build Thread (60x46)

I bet the reason the weld "failed" was because someone severely overloaded the ramp at some time and the stress broke the weld over time. Should not be too difficult a repair. Hang a come along off the ends and pull it back into place after cleaning that old weld and rust out. Reweld and paint.

sbosecker · Oct 23, 2017

Re: The Lone Beech Garage Build Thread (60x46)

matt_i said:
I think the best solution has been mentioned, oxyacet torch to heat the part you need to bend until bright orange. Then it should bend by hand.

The other possibility is to cut it completely thru the rest of the way. Grind out the old weld and back-bevel both sides, fixture and weld back up. For structural things I always go with the "old reliable" 7018 stick on DC+....which can be had in std 1/8" dia rods or 3/32" if needed for smaller stuff.

I have gotten a lot of MSC 35% off codes in email and many times tried a large purchase for a Suburban Tool master-grind...but it always failed on 35% and defaulted to somewhere around 8-9% when I got to the "cart" stage and so I always backed out. But then serenipity struck and I found a great lightly used one for even less and I am a happy camper. Hopefully you will get your tracking number soon!!

jriltex said:
I bet the reason the weld "failed" was because someone severely overloaded the ramp at some time and the stress broke the weld over time. Should not be too difficult a repair. Hang a come along off the ends and pull it back into place after cleaning that old weld and rust out. Reweld and paint.

matt_i & jriltex,

A common refrain here - and I don't disagree - is to "grind out the welds" to start.

Since I don't know what I'm doing but the way one learns is by trying to do something, I have to ask the following question:

I'm having a hard time figuring out how to get to the old weld inside that channel. What tool setup would you guys recommend to grind the welds despite the interference of the channel sides?

I don't have a torch so warming up the part to the required temp isn't an option. At least I can't think of a way to achieve the required temperature.

A come-along - or something equivalent if the come-along is too long - might be a promising approach.

Best regards,

Scott

sbosecker · Oct 23, 2017

Re: The Lone Beech Garage Build Thread (60x46)

drivesitfar said:
SB: best of luck with the ramp and Zoro!!

CNC?????

shortykorte said:
I have two guesses. Something from Zoro or a 220v welder.

DrivesItFar & shortykorte,

Thanks guys!

I'm hoping that I'll hear from Zoro this coming week regarding my order.

Best regards,

Scott

sbosecker · Oct 23, 2017

Re: The Lone Beech Garage Build Thread (60x46)

Sunday - October 22, 2017

Most of today was spent doing Internet prepping for an upcoming auto repair. Earlier this past week my bride texted me from her workplace that she hadn't been able to get her 1997 Honda del Sol's clutch to operate. She had bailed out of the del Sol in our house garage and taken a different vehicle to work.

I was afraid that we might be looking at a new clutch and that seemed like a daunting task. However, after further review, it appears that the del Sol's Clutch Master Cylinder has failed. The second picture is from under the dash of the del Sol. Note the goo coming out this side of the Clutch Master Cylinder (white arrow). I ordered a new one last week and it should arrive tomorrow.

I have to decide whether there's any advantage to dragging the del Sol from its present position to the LBG for the repair. I don't think there's a need to get under this tiny car so the repair will probably be done in situ.

Just in case I was bored... I saw this in the LBG's long bay yesterday. It's too early for stuff to be failing in my new building!

I find it hard to believe that two tubes failed at the same time so I'm thinking maybe the ballast has gone south. I'll have to get the scaffolding over there and do a little troubleshooting this week.

Scott

matt_i · Oct 23, 2017

Re: The Lone Beech Garage Build Thread (60x46)

I think what I would attempt to use is an air powered die grinder with a carbide burr to remove the weld down inside the channel. A ball-shape burr would probably be a good place to start, then proceed just like a dentist

The downside is you have to be careful as it generates a zillion little tiny slivers that are super easy to pickup in the heel of your hand or other. Having a shop vac handy and cleaning the local area often is what seems to help the most.

Paul_VR6 · Oct 23, 2017

Re: The Lone Beech Garage Build Thread (60x46)

The "easy" way would be to cut it through, prep it then weld it. Just takes an angle grinder, cutoff wheel and grinding wheel.

usdemt · Oct 23, 2017

Re: The Lone Beech Garage Build Thread (60x46)

You have given me a ton of great ideas. Thank you so much

sbosecker · Oct 23, 2017

Re: The Lone Beech Garage Build Thread (60x46)

usdemt said:
You have given me a ton of great ideas. Thank you so much

Robb,

Thanks for the kind words and for coming along for the ride!

Best regards,

Scott

sbosecker · Oct 23, 2017

Re: The Lone Beech Garage Build Thread (60x46)

matt_i said:
I think what I would attempt to use is an air powered die grinder with a carbide burr to remove the weld down inside the channel. A ball-shape burr would probably be a good place to start, then proceed just like a dentist The downside is you have to be careful as it generates a zillion little tiny slivers that are super easy to pickup in the heel of your hand or other. Having a shop vac handy and cleaning the local area often is what seems to help the most.

Paul_VR6 said:
The "easy" way would be to cut it through, prep it then weld it. Just takes an angle grinder, cutoff wheel and grinding wheel.

matt_i & Paul_VR6,

Thanks for the suggestions! I've got a die grinder... I'll see what I can do with that.

The option of cutting and then cleaning things up is compelling in it's (apparent) simplicity.

Which begs the question...
Why wasn't it manufactured that way from the get-go? I am assuming it would take a stout machine ($$) to bend this structural piece into position for the welding that failed on mine. If it were just welded from two pieces, that would seem to eliminate the need for the big costly machine.

It would seem the more cost-effective way to build the thing would be to start with two pieces not one.

Best regards,

Scott

sbosecker · Oct 23, 2017

Re: The Lone Beech Garage Build Thread (60x46)

Monday - October 23, 2017

Clutch Master Cylinder for the 1997 Honda del Sol arrived in today's mail.

I've got a "paperwork" project I volunteered to do that I promised my Pastor I'd have finished by the end of October. I worked on that today and also will probably spend the entire day tomorrow trying to finish it. Once that's out of the way, I'll attempt to repair the del Sol.

I did take some time last night and aggravated the Dock Board structure for 20 minutes or so with a pneumatic die grinder. I also hit the "clean" side of the beam with a flap disc to take off the paint.

This too needs to wait for completion of the "volunteer project" before I move any farther forward.

I am starting to lean towards just cutting the structure completely in two. The plasma cutter might work pretty nice for that.

Scott

Ole Slewfoot · Oct 24, 2017

Re: The Lone Beech Garage Build Thread (60x46)

Not best practice for all the welds to line up. Notice its only cracked at a weld, and the part was held together by the contiguous piece?

camarosrus69 · Oct 24, 2017

Re: The Lone Beech Garage Build Thread (60x46)

Slewfoot, the reason the top of the channel didn't break is because it was in compression. In the load scenario this part was seeing, the top was always in compression, and the bottom was in tension. When it cracked, the tension load transferred to the aluminum plate through the bolts and slotted holes. The top, while still in compression, basically became a hinge. A better design would have been to slice the channel from the top down to the bottom flange, bend it open, and then weld in a pie shaped angle. Then most of the weld would have been only in compression.

matt_i · Oct 24, 2017

Re: The Lone Beech Garage Build Thread (60x46)

If you do cut it, I would first weld it back together as best you can.

Then if you can make additional flat bar straps of lets just say 1/4" x 1" wide, maybe 6-10" long (guessing at scale a little bit but hopefully you get the idea). Once the original welds have been replaced and the structure is back together, then put the "band aids" over the two vertical sides and a slight bend to fit the top horizontal side. Then weld all around the perimeter of the flat bars, as hot a weld as you can make. The "band aids" will really help to beef up the structure.

May not be quite as pretty but definitely functional

sbosecker · Oct 25, 2017

Re: The Lone Beech Garage Build Thread (60x46)

matt_i said:
If you do cut it, I would first weld it back together as best you can.

Then if you can make additional flat bar straps of lets just say 1/4" x 1" wide, maybe 6-10" long (guessing at scale a little bit but hopefully you get the idea). Once the original welds have been replaced and the structure is back together, then put the "band aids" over the two vertical sides and a slight bend to fit the top horizontal side. Then weld all around the perimeter of the flat bars, as hot a weld as you can make. The "band aids" will really help to beef up the structure.

May not be quite as pretty but definitely functional

matt_i,

Thanks!

I certainly want this Dock Board to be structurally sound if I use it on the Loading Dock.

Best regards,

Scott

sbosecker · Oct 25, 2017

Re: The Lone Beech Garage Build Thread (60x46)

Tuesday - October 24, 2017

I've already established myself as a tease with my "ordered a large machine" post.

Tonight I was sitting down to watch game one of the World Series and I had my laptop in front of me checking out Craigslist during commercials.

To my surprise a Rockwell Metal Lathe (that was about all the information supplied) was listed within a few miles of me had been posted 44 minutes earlier. Limited information in the ad other than the lathe needed to be removed form its location by Saturday. A few poor pictures of this item in a storage unit were the rest of the documentation. The listed price was $150 less than I paid for my Craigslist 7x12 mini-lathe.

I took a few minutes to research the machine as best as I could with the limited information provided in the ad. 10 minutes later I was pretty sure this was an 11-inch Rockwell Metal Lathe.

I texted the fellow that I was interested and I lived close by. A response came back that someone about 60 miles away in North Georgia had expressed their interest about 5 minutes prior to my text. I was second in line.

I asked if it would be OK for me to look at it despite being #2 and the fellow responded in the affirmative. About 5 minutes later my phone rang and it was the Craigslist guy.

"Number 1 guy has decided not to continue with acquiring the lathe - you're next in line."

In the next hour the gentleman let me know that he'd had one call from California interested in the machine and he had had so many other calls he had taken down the ad.

Tomorrow I go to look at the machine. The price is so low I cannot imagine that I won't buy it. The trick is getting the manpower together to move & load this 800 pound(?) item from a storage unit before the weekend.

Should be an interesting day! Pictures to follow.

Scott

matt_i · Oct 25, 2017

Re: The Lone Beech Garage Build Thread (60x46)

Scott

If you can source a "kneeling trailer" aka one that hydraulically raises and lowers almost flat to the ground you can use a pallet jack. I think sometimes scissor lifts and boomed-man lifts are rented on those, and you might be able to rent the trailer only if the other machine is not occupied.

The challenge is to get the lathe on a pallet or skid of 3/4" ply and 2x4s set on edge...you need the 3-1/2" height (vs stacking the two to make a 3" height).

What I would do is source some scraps of 3/8" plywood, 3/4" plywood, 2x4s or 2x6s and a pry bar. The idea is to carefully pry up one corner and put a 3/8" block under it. Use your aides to steady the machine as you work. Work all around until you have a 3/8" block on each corner. Now you go to 3/4" blocks, which is just a 3/8" step-up from the first 3/8". Work around until its all on 3/4" blocks. Now go back and put the 3/8" on top of the 3/4". Work around. Now pull the 1-1/8" stack and put in a 1-1/2" block...hopefully you get the idea. It will also take some combination of fulcrums as the prybar doesn't have a ton of range. Its quiet, steady work but eventually you will work your way up to the point where the pallet can be slid under, you remove a round or two of the blocks, and the machine is now on the pallet. (May also be able to set the lathe directly on the pallet forks for a short transport to the trailer...I would put at least the 3/8" ply as a "friction improver" between machine and forks as steel on steel can slip)

I would take every ratchet strap you have. Even 1" wide ones will help if ganged up. Have to watch for them getting cut or sawn on sharp metal edges...old jeans or even cardboard squares will help protect against the dreaded chafe. The general rule of thumb I always use is to try to make every strap 'independent' which means try not to hold the machine down with loops over top of it as a primary form of tie-down. As that relies on friction between the strap and the metal...which can give out at inopportune moments. Instead if you can tie the J-hook back to the strap in a "cinch", it then relies on the breaking strength of the webbing...much stronger.

Last but not least...always tie one strap or one strap tail to the body or handwheel of the tailstock. Untold number of people have taken lathes on road trips only to find they are missing the tailstock...and then you only have about 20% of a lathe...

Best of luck!

drivesitfar · Oct 25, 2017

Re: The Lone Beech Garage Build Thread (60x46)

Scott: so was your ZORO purchase a CNC or maybe a lathe and now you found a vintage one so you don't need the new one?

best of luck moving that BEAST around if you buy it and sounds like i'd like to have MATT with me to at least watch and also let me know if the lathe i was buying had everything it was supposed to.

i want to hear you didn't smash any fingers or toes, got a great deal on an old lathe and would love to see you using it in the near future.

cheers

Smittybert · Oct 25, 2017

Re: The Lone Beech Garage Build Thread (60x46)

Get an low trailer (I have used enclosed car trailer before) 2 4x4s bolted to the bottom of lathe as runners, then a bunch of round pipes and a come-along

shortykorte · Oct 25, 2017

Re: The Lone Beech Garage Build Thread (60x46)

I know someone in Tallahassee with experience move 1000-1600# top heavy items. He'd be happy to pick it up for you. lol

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Lotusnut · Oct 25, 2017

Re: The Lone Beech Garage Build Thread (60x46)

Have you considered taking your trailer and your engine crane with you. Use at least 3 or 4 2" ratchet straps for slings to use the engine crane and lift the lathe straight up until you can roll the trailer under it. Set it on a piece of plywood that is not that much bigger than the lathe footprint to spread the load. Tie it down before the trailer is moved even 1".

Get the trailer out where you can maneuver and use the crane to relocate the lathe on the trailer as reguired. The objective is to only do vertical lifts with the engine hoist and not move the hoist while the lathe is in the air.

Depending on the lathe if you can remove the stand from the lathe and get the C of G lower it is worth the work to move the lathe without it being top heavy. MUCH Safer

Go slow and think it out and you should be able to do this with only 2 people. Also think of removing motors and tail stocks to lighten the major load.

Good luck and I suspect you deserve a you **** but we will see

sbosecker · Oct 25, 2017

Re: The Lone Beech Garage Build Thread (60x46)

matt_i said:
Scott

If you can source a "kneeling trailer" aka one that hydraulically raises and lowers almost flat to the ground you can use a pallet jack. I think sometimes scissor lifts and boomed-man lifts are rented on those, and you might be able to rent the trailer only if the other machine is not occupied.

The challenge is to get the lathe on a pallet or skid of 3/4" ply and 2x4s set on edge...you need the 3-1/2" height (vs stacking the two to make a 3" height).

What I would do is source some scraps of 3/8" plywood, 3/4" plywood, 2x4s or 2x6s and a pry bar. The idea is to carefully pry up one corner and put a 3/8" block under it. Use your aides to steady the machine as you work. Work all around until you have a 3/8" block on each corner. Now you go to 3/4" blocks, which is just a 3/8" step-up from the first 3/8". Work around until its all on 3/4" blocks. Now go back and put the 3/8" on top of the 3/4". Work around. Now pull the 1-1/8" stack and put in a 1-1/2" block...hopefully you get the idea. It will also take some combination of fulcrums as the prybar doesn't have a ton of range. Its quiet, steady work but eventually you will work your way up to the point where the pallet can be slid under, you remove a round or two of the blocks, and the machine is now on the pallet. (May also be able to set the lathe directly on the pallet forks for a short transport to the trailer...I would put at least the 3/8" ply as a "friction improver" between machine and forks as steel on steel can slip)

I would take every ratchet strap you have. Even 1" wide ones will help if ganged up. Have to watch for them getting cut or sawn on sharp metal edges...old jeans or even cardboard squares will help protect against the dreaded chafe. The general rule of thumb I always use is to try to make every strap 'independent' which means try not to hold the machine down with loops over top of it as a primary form of tie-down. As that relies on friction between the strap and the metal...which can give out at inopportune moments. Instead if you can tie the J-hook back to the strap in a "cinch", it then relies on the breaking strength of the webbing...much stronger.

Last but not least...always tie one strap or one strap tail to the body or handwheel of the tailstock. Untold number of people have taken lathes on road trips only to find they are missing the tailstock...and then you only have about 20% of a lathe...

Best of luck!

Smittybert said:
Get an low trailer (I have used enclosed car trailer before) 2 4x4s bolted to the bottom of lathe as runners, then a bunch of round pipes and a come-along

Lotusnut said:
Have you considered taking your trailer and your engine crane with you. Use at least 3 or 4 2" ratchet straps for slings to use the engine crane and lift the lathe straight up until you can roll the trailer under it. Set it on a piece of plywood that is not that much bigger than the lathe footprint to spread the load. Tie it down before the trailer is moved even 1".

Get the trailer out where you can maneuver and use the crane to relocate the lathe on the trailer as reguired. The objective is to only do vertical lifts with the engine hoist and not move the hoist while the lathe is in the air.

Depending on the lathe if you can remove the stand from the lathe and get the C of G lower it is worth the work to move the lathe without it being top heavy. MUCH Safer

Go slow and think it out and you should be able to do this with only 2 people. Also think of removing motors and tail stocks to lighten the major load.

Good luck and I suspect you deserve a you **** but we will see

Thanks to all for their suggestions!

I did go to the storage unit, checked over the machine & handed the guy the $200 asking price. It is a Rockwell 11-inch Metal Lathe. It's a 3-phase machine and some "stuff" may be missing. It has been sitting in this storage unit for a very long time.

I don't know if this machine can be refurbished or not but, for the nominal asking price and location so close to me, I decided to roll the dice. If it can't be turned into a working machine I think I can break even (or better) selling parts off the thing.

The biggest challenges are:

1. It is in a storage unit so access is a bit difficult. Not only inside the unit but also due to the narrow "alleys" of this particular layout.

2. This is a big one... the machine is lying on it's back. I think it would be easier to deal with if it was upright but it's going to be a fight to get it that position.

Best regards,

Scott

sbosecker · Oct 25, 2017

Re: The Lone Beech Garage Build Thread (60x46)

shortykorte said:
I know someone in Tallahassee with experience move 1000-1600# top heavy items. He'd be happy to pick it up for you. lol

shortykorte,

Thanks!

Any experience with top-heavy items that are lying down? Ha!

That's what I'm fighting with at the moment. I tried to get it upright by myself today but I think I need at least one more person to help.

Best regards,

Scott

sbosecker · Oct 25, 2017

Re: The Lone Beech Garage Build Thread (60x46)

drivesitfar said:
Scott: so was your ZORO purchase a CNC or maybe a lathe and now you found a vintage one so you don't need the new one?

best of luck moving that BEAST around if you buy it and sounds like i'd like to have MATT with me to at least watch and also let me know if the lathe i was buying had everything it was supposed to.

i want to hear you didn't smash any fingers or toes, got a great deal on an old lathe and would love to see you using it in the near future.

cheers

DrivesItFar,

The Zoro purchase is not a CNC or a lathe. Ha!

After one day of wrestling with it, I still have all my digits. We'll see how tomorrow goes.

I'll try to be careful.

Best regards,

Scott

jriltex · Oct 25, 2017

Re: The Lone Beech Garage Build Thread (60x46)

Find a local gun safe dealer and see who he uses to deliver and move his products. They can handle this with ease. I used this approach to move some really heavy equipment and they were very versed in heavy and easy to tip hazards.

Above 1200 Sq/FT The Lone Beech Garage (60x46x16)

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