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Pole Barn Lighting Battle - T5 vs T8 vs LED

Homer14

Active member
Joined
Apr 4, 2016
Messages
32
Location
Ann Arbor, MI.
Hi,

I'm working on my 40x42x14 pole barn lighting plans. I've been reading and researching lighting on and off for a few weeks. I'm no expert but here are my findings so far.

I'm open to opinions.

I believe I've settled on 80 foot candles. I'll have it chopped into probably 2 switched halves or 4 switched quadrants so I'll only use what i need when i need.

40x42 area * 80 foot candles = 134,400 lumen target

Below my summary is some math I did :)

[Summary thus far]
The three types of lights below are almost identical in energy consumption at about 1512-1536 kw/hr total. The difference is the needed amount of fixtures and then the technical differences such as instant-on, replacement lifetime, etc.

The T5H0 seems to be most bang for the buck at 185 lumens per dollar. I was surprised with LED I get only 101 lumens per dollar and the LED fixtures are not as bright as the T5HO ones with today's technology. I was sure before I started that LED would win.

Now I need to decide if T5H0's will have too much glare, if they will have delays in fully lightening in cold vs LED, if LED will simply last longer and to go that route or if T8's in general are still the best route due to lower costs up front and easy maintenance.

I cant rationalize spending almost 3x more on LED strips to result in the same energy consumption if all lights were on across all models.

Am I missing something, shouldn't LED be a clear winner by now? ;)

[T8 8' with 4 4' bulbs]
lumens/fixture or bulb 2800
watts/fixture 128
bulbs needed 120
fixtures needed 12
watt/mon at 40hr. kwh 61.44
cost .16kwh 40hr/mon $9.83

bulbs $1.97
total bulb cost $236.40

fixtures $45.98
total fixture cost $552

total installation cost $788

lumens per fixture 11200
cost per fixture $65.68
lumens per dollar 171
energy consumption 1536

[T5H0 8' with 4 4' bulbs]
lumens/fixture or bulb 5000
watts/fixture 216
bulbs needed 14
fixtures needed 7
watt/mon at 40hr. kwh 60.48
cost .16kwh 40hr/mon $9.68

bulbs $7.00
total bulb cost $98.00

fixtures $94.99
total fixture cost $665

total installation cost $763

lumens per fixture 20000
cost per fixture $108.99
lumens per dollar 184
energy consumption 1512

[T8 LED 8' with 4 4' strips]
lumens/fixture or bulb 8200
watts/fixture 90
bulbs needed n/a
fixtures needed 17
watt/mon at 40hr. kwh 61.2
cost .16kwh 40hr/mon $9.79

bulbs n/a
total bulb cost 0

fixtures $81.00
total fixture cost $1,377

total installation cost $1,377

lumens per fixture 8200
cost per fixture $81.00
lumens per dollar 101
energy consumption 1530
 
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Perrorojo

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Northern IN
I went with 4' LED replacements. It's worth it.

i have 16 - 6600 lumen fixtures. 864 watts for 105600 lumens.

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Last edited:

cybrdyke

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Joined
Sep 9, 2014
Messages
3,442
Location
USA
Hi,

I'm working on my 40x42x14 pole barn lighting plans. I've been reading and researching lighting on and off for a few weeks. I'm no expert but here are my findings so far.

I'm open to opinions.

I believe I've settled on 80 foot candles. I'll have it chopped into probably 2 switched halves or 4 switched quadrants so I'll only use what i need when i need.

40x42 area * 80 foot candles = 134,400 lumen target

Below my summary is some math I did :)

[Summary thus far]
The three types of lights below are almost identical in energy consumption at about 1512-1536 kw/hr total. The difference is the needed amount of fixtures and then the technical differences such as instant-on, replacement lifetime, etc.

The T5H0 seems to be most bang for the buck at 185 lumens per dollar. I was surprised with LED I get only 101 lumens per dollar and the LED fixtures are not as bright as the T5HO ones with today's technology. I was sure before I started that LED would win.

Now I need to decide if T5H0's will have too much glare, if they will have delays in fully lightening in cold vs LED, if LED will simply last longer and to go that route or if T8's in general are still the best route due to lower costs up front and easy maintenance.

I cant rationalize spending almost 3x more on LED strips to result in the same energy consumption if all lights were on across all models.

Am I missing something, shouldn't LED be a clear winner by now? ;)

[T8 8' with 4 4' bulbs]
lumens/fixture or bulb 2800
watts/fixture 128
bulbs needed 120
fixtures needed 12
watt/mon at 40hr. kwh 61.44
cost .16kwh 40hr/mon $9.83

bulbs $1.97
total bulb cost $236.40

fixtures $45.98
total fixture cost $552

total installation cost $788

lumens per fixture 11200
cost per fixture $65.68
lumens per dollar 171
energy consumption 1536

[T5H0 8' with 4 4' bulbs]
lumens/fixture or bulb 5000
watts/fixture 216
bulbs needed 14
fixtures needed 7
watt/mon at 40hr. kwh 60.48
cost .16kwh 40hr/mon $9.68

bulbs $7.00
total bulb cost $98.00

fixtures $94.99
total fixture cost $665

total installation cost $763

lumens per fixture 20000
cost per fixture $108.99
lumens per dollar 184
energy consumption 1512

[T8 LED 8' with 4 4' strips]
lumens/fixture or bulb 8200
watts/fixture 90
bulbs needed n/a
fixtures needed 17
watt/mon at 40hr. kwh 61.2
cost .16kwh 40hr/mon $9.79

bulbs n/a
total bulb cost 0

fixtures $81.00
total fixture cost $1,377

total installation cost $1,377

lumens per fixture 8200
cost per fixture $81.00
lumens per dollar 101
energy consumption 1530

Hey Homer,
You went a little astray with your figures, but that's OK...we're here to help.
First, throw out the "total lumens" target. Not sure where you got that info, but you cant divide fixture lumens by square footage and get any number that will make sense for your research. Common error though, so dont sweat it.
If you're looking for an 80fc target, someone needs to do a layout for you with that figure and determine how many fixtures you'll need. In order to do that, you will need to determine which source you're going to use, so let's move on to that....

A common 4 lamp T8 fixture only delivers about 6800 lumens, not the 11,000 you were hoping for. The ballast and the fixture dont deliver all the lumens that the lamp is rated for. And the 4 lamp ballast + 4 lamps will only use 112w, not 128. So, you can re-do your calculations using those figures. (Hint: You'll start to see LED getting more attractive)

A common 4 lamp T5HO fixture delivers around 18,000-19,000 lumens. It will use about 200w in energy. Most 4 lamp T5HO ballasts have bi-level switches built in that will allow you to turn on either 2 or 4 lamps, so that's a nice feature. T5HO lamps are very glarey when hung too low without sheilding, so be careful of that. Also, T5HO is fickle in cold weather, at least more so than T8 or LED.

A common 4 lamp LED strip will have no ballast, which is a plus, and 4 LED lamps somewhere in the 2200 lumen range, and probably around 15w to 18w each. So, you're likely to get 8800 lumens for about 60 watts.

A quick recalculation:
4 lamp T8: 6800/112 = 60.7 LPW
4 lamp T5HO: 18,000/200=90 LPW
4 lamp LED: 8800/60= 146.6 LPW (your clear winner)

Standard T8 lamps have a death rating of 50% at 24,000 hours.
Standard T5HO lamps have a death rating of 50% at 25,000 hours.
Both offer a premium version with longer life ratings at extra cost
Typical LED tubes have are rated to only diminish by 30% after 50,000 hours (another clear winner).

With your 14' ceiling, you could also consider other LED fixture options that wont have any lamps at all...another plus. Most good LED fixtures are expected to last well over 100,000 hours and nearly all are dimmable out of the box.

Good luck,
CD
 
Last edited:

nsula_country

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Joined
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Messages
1,534
Location
Northwestern Louisiana
IMHO, T8 wins over T5HO and LED.

T8 is proven, reliable, and still the workhorse of large area lighting. Quality 32w lamps can exceed 3000 lumens and 20000+ hours with quality ballasts. They also behave well down to 0 degrees. T8HO can start at -20*. T8 provides max lumens at 77*.

T5 is best when used above 20' high to replace HID lights. Will have glare mounted 12'-14'. Not the cheapest to operate either at 54w/lamp. T5 is best suited for non conditioned spaces in warm climates. Optimum operating temp is 95*.

LED has improved greatly in the past few years. Personally I'm not sold on the longevity claims. Especially the cheap Chinese tubes flooding the market for <$10/ea. If I were to go LED it would be brand name, commercial fixtures. But they cost $$$/ea.

CT
 
OP
H

Homer14

Active member
Joined
Apr 4, 2016
Messages
32
Location
Ann Arbor, MI.
Are those in t8 ballasts, replaced your bulbs with led compatible ones? I know thats common for people replacing t8 with LED. Or are they straight LED with no ballasts?

Since I'm starting new I can go straight led, no ballast, unless it makes sense to go with a ballast and led on a new install vs other options.
 
OP
H

Homer14

Active member
Joined
Apr 4, 2016
Messages
32
Location
Ann Arbor, MI.
I went with 4' LED replacements. It's worth it.

i have 16 - 6600 lumen fixtures. 864 watts for 105600 lumens.

Are those in t8 ballasts, replaced your bulbs with led compatible ones? I know thats common for people replacing t8 with LED. Or are they straight LED with no ballasts?

Since I'm starting new I can go straight led, no ballast, unless it makes sense to go with a ballast and led on a new install vs other options.
 
OP
H

Homer14

Active member
Joined
Apr 4, 2016
Messages
32
Location
Ann Arbor, MI.
A quick recalculation:
4 lamp T8: 6800/112 = 60.7 LPW
4 lamp T5HO: 18,000/200=90 LPW
4 lamp LED: 8800/60= 146.6 LPW (your clear winner)

Standard T8 lamps have a death rating of 50% at 24,000 hours.
Standard T5HO lamps have a death rating of 50% at 25,000 hours.
Both offer a premium version with longer life ratings at extra cost
Typical LED tubes have are rated to only diminish by 30% after 50,000 hours (another clear winner).

With your 14' ceiling, you could also consider other LED fixture options that wont have any lamps at all...another plus. Most good LED fixtures are expected to last well over 100,000 hours and nearly all are dimmable out of the box.

Good luck,
CD

thanks for the follow-up. i really appreciate it. I'm going of box numbers or numbers on websites on the products. I support the real numbers dont match the max numbers for wattage and for lumens which you may be pointing out to me?

For example, the 8' LED one states 8200 lumens and 90 watts. Here's the link:

https://www.menards.com/main/lighti...-led-multivolt-striplight/p-1459474229643.htm

When you say no lamps, the example above would be an example of that right? I'm not bias to any of them I just want the best bang for the buck with todays technology and if LED will end up with longer life and return on investment due to less energy usage I wish I could see that on the "box numbers" versus individual expert feedback too (though I favor real world expert feedback more I think).

The barn is almost square. I need to figure out the sq footage coverage of these lamps and then space them out correctly as you stated. They dont really state the coverage. I know going with an no-cover light up hight mounted to the ceiling will get the better coverage but how much is tricky to find. :)

Thanks for the proposed new numbers. I added your version to my spreadsheet and the energy usage is much more apparent with the LED leading to savings and more so with the different lumens from a t8 ballast that you proposed.
 
OP
H

Homer14

Active member
Joined
Apr 4, 2016
Messages
32
Location
Ann Arbor, MI.
IMHO, T8 wins over T5HO and LED.

T8 is proven, reliable, and still the workhorse of large area lighting. Quality 32w lamps can exceed 3000 lumens and 20000+ hours with quality ballasts. They also behave well down to 0 degrees. T8HO can start at -20*. T8 provides max lumens at 77*.

T5 is best when used above 20' high to replace HID lights. Will have glare mounted 12'-14'. Not the cheapest to operate either at 54w/lamp. T5 is best suited for non conditioned spaces in warm climates. Optimum operating temp is 95*.

LED has improved greatly in the past few years. Personally I'm not sold on the longevity claims. Especially the cheap Chinese tubes flooding the market for <$10/ea. If I were to go LED it would be brand name, commercial fixtures. But they cost $$$/ea.

CT

thanks for your feedback as well. this helps me also confirm that its really t8 vs led due to the t5 glare. i keep wondering about led glare too since led is pretty bright as well.
 

Bert_

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Joined
Dec 24, 2016
Messages
9,710
Location
NW Iowa
I still like T8/T5 fluorescent, they are pretty cheap and reliable. Stay far away from a lot of the cheap LED's. They either die completely or they dim out very early in life. If you can't fine lifespan listed as XXhours at L70 then I would pass.

Using foot candles multiplied by square feet does NOT give you a useful number. You need to take into account room reflectances, how the fixture directs light and some other factors. It's easiest to use a calculation program.

If you use T8 I would suggest you order them with program start high ballast factor ballasts. Program start ballast will make the lamps last much longer when they are frequently switched. High ballast factor ballast will run the lamps quite a bit brighter than a standard ballast, good for your ceiling height, and they are rated to -20* F.
 
Last edited:

Platonic Solid

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Joined
Nov 29, 2014
Messages
3,587
Location
CT-USA
Anything less than 16 fixtures will give poor coverage = shadows

Qty.16 arranged 4x4, center to center spacing: 10' x 10.5'
2ft. LED Linear High Bay, 110 Watt, Dimmable, 14,300 Lumens, LumeGen
130L/W
$85 ea. (link)

Total Lumens: 228800
Total Wattage: 1760W

Lumens/$: 168

Avg @ 30" workplane: 105fc

Total Fixture Cost: $1360

-------------------------------------------------------

Qty.16 arranged 4x4, center to center spacing: 10' x 10.5'
2ft. LED Linear High Bay, 80 Watt, Dimmable, 10,400 Lumens, LumeGen
130L/W
$70 ea. (link)

Total Lumens: 166400
Total Wattage: 1280W

Lumens/$: 149

Avg @ 30" workplane: 76fc

Total Fixture Cost: $1120
 
Last edited:

cybrdyke

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Joined
Sep 9, 2014
Messages
3,442
Location
USA
thanks for the follow-up. i really appreciate it. I'm going of box numbers or numbers on websites on the products. I support the real numbers dont match the max numbers for wattage and for lumens which you may be pointing out to me?Box numbers are often misleading, not necessarily on purpose. The info that you get from the big box store websites is notoriously inaccurate.

For example, the 8' LED one states 8200 lumens and 90 watts. Here's the link:

https://www.menards.com/main/lighti...-led-multivolt-striplight/p-1459474229643.htm

When you say no lamps, the example above would be an example of that right? That's correct. That example has no lamps or sockets. A big company like Lithonia makes fixtures in many different grades. The lowest grade is generally made for the box stores and the internet. This particular one doesn't even show up on the Lithonia website, so it might be made exclusively for Menards. You should expect that an LED fixture would be well over 100 lumens per watt and this one falls a little short. That might not be a deal breaker for you, but it's a benchmark to consider looking for.

The barn is almost square. I need to figure out the sq footage coverage of these lamps and then space them out correctly as you stated. They dont really state the coverage. I know going with an no-cover light up hight mounted to the ceiling will get the better coverage but how much is tricky to find. :)You wont find it. They do it by computer. I'll refer you to the "sticky" in the lighting forum called "lighting fixture layout collection"
There's probably one already done in your size.

i keep wondering about led glare too since led is pretty bright as well.
Just get frosted lens or diffuser on whatever you choose and this wont be an issue.

CD
 

nsula_country

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Joined
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Messages
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Location
Northwestern Louisiana
I still like T8/T5 fluorescent, they are pretty cheap and reliable. Stay far away from a lot of the cheap LED's. They either die completely or they dim out very early in life. If you can't fine lifespan listed as XXhours at L70 then I would pass.

Using foot candles multiplied by square feet does NOT give you a useful number. You need to take into account room reflectances, how the fixture directs light and some other factors. It's easiest to use a calculation program.

If you use T8 I would suggest you order them with program start high ballast factor ballasts. Program start ballast will make the lamps last much longer when they are frequently switched. High ballast factor ballast will run the lamps quite a bit brighter than a standard ballast, good for your ceiling height, and they are rated to -20* F.

This is the route I took. 4 lamp 4' high bay reflector lights with 1.15 ballast factor ballast and Maxlite 850XL lamps. US made fixtures, GE ballasts, Maxlite F32/850XL 24,000 hr life lamps.

What I used (T8 is my personal preference as of today) 2 years later, Shineretrofits still has these items listed for sale. 2 years later, 0 failures of lamps or ballasts.

Fixtures
https://www.shineretrofits.com/us-energy-sciences-ohb-043204-ea-h-4-lamp-t8-high-bay-full-aluminum-body-light-fixture-with-high-power-ballast-and-miro4-reflector.html

Lamps
https://www.shineretrofits.com/maxlite-f32t8-850xl-xl-super-t8-series-4-linear-fluorescent-lamp-32-watt-32w-5000k-24-000-hour-51049.html

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=718571&stc=1&d=1514318720

CT
 

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Perrorojo

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Are those in t8 ballasts, replaced your bulbs with led compatible ones? I know thats common for people replacing t8 with LED. Or are they straight LED with no ballasts?

Since I'm starting new I can go straight led, no ballast, unless it makes sense to go with a ballast and led on a new install vs other options.

Straight two wire bulbs with no ballast. I took the ballast out and sold them on Craigslist for $50.
 

bmxdad

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Puyallup, WA
I have the thin T5HO 4' 4 bulb fixtures ... what is this glare everyone is talking about? They're mounted about 11' up. Shop is 24x36. When temp is in the low 30's they take a minute or two to get to full brightness, but no other problems ... they've been up a little over three years.

View media item 44030
View media item 44031
 

baron405

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baron405

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howpeculiar

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LED Lights! I used the Aleo 95W units, and they are easily dimable, no noise!

Video:
 

howpeculiar

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You are correct, I miss-remembered! They are AWESOME! Being able to turn them down is really nice. Once the lifts are in, the layout will really make sense. Already with the pallet racking in I am really happy with the layout.
 
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Homer14

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Ann Arbor, MI.
Thanks to everyone whom shared their input. I went with the LumeGen's Platonic Solid recommended and howpeculiar happened to have ordered too. I went with a recommended 4 dimmers to run sets of 4 lights in a 4x4 layout on my 42x40x14 space.

Once done I'll try to snap some photos of before and after as well as answer questions about them as they arise.

They are ordered. Now to wire, put up the ceiling, and hang these puppies. We'll see how fast that all happens with no spare time :)

Qty.16 arranged 4x4, center to center spacing: 10' x 10.5'
2ft. LED Linear High Bay, 110 Watt, Dimmable, 14,300 Lumens, LumeGen
130L/W
$85 ea. on 12-27-2017
 
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nsula_country

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zmotorsports

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I waffled long and hard over this as well. When I first had my shop quoted, it was with T8 fixtures. Just before we started pulling electrical I had the contractor give me an LED option. It wasn't cheap by any means but after having my 27.5k lumeb LED's in the shop for six months now there is absolutely NO way I would go back to fluorescent fixtures/bulbs. The lighting in my shop is freaking awesome and just over 100 f/c very consistently throughout my 40x50x16 shop and 85 f/c in the 20x50x16 RV storage bay.

In the 40x50 shop area I have 11 fixtures and in the 20x50 RV storage bay I have 6 fixtures. I purchased the lighting from econolight.com and was very pleased with the experience.
 

Platonic Solid

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Check these new LEDs out that came out not too long ago. This looks like the cheapest BY FAR - def what I'm going to be putting in my pole barn. And less fixtures to install because they daisy chain.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HBT3BVM/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Even cheaper:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Integrated...215406&hash=item46228d925f:g:nEAAAOSwBlNZdhpn
Not less, More fixtures to install. You'd need 85 of the ebay fixtures or 104 of the amazon ones to equal the lumen output the OP will be getting with 16 fixtures.

ebay add states:
"To connect another fixture install two more clamps in line with the previous fixture, snap the second fixture in the clamps and slide both fixtures towards each other after placing connector (included) in the middle. You could repeat this process and connect as many fixtures as needed."
Good luck with that. When the first lamp in the chain fries from too much current you could complain to UL (if they were Listed).

Amazon ones state:
"LINKABLE - Extendable design, could connect up to 6 tube lights together with seamless connectors or connector cords",
thus minimum 18 circuits required for the 104 bulbs.

Neither has any independent certifications so they can say whatever they want and you just have to believe them cause no-name Chinese manufacturers have a reputation to uphold (not).

FWIW: I confirm UL Listing prior to any fixture/lamps recommendations.
 

howpeculiar

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Messages
77
You will not be disapointed! Make sure you order the surface mount brackets if you plan on flush mounting. I have a video showing how they go together....

 

Uncle Phil

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Dec 14, 2012
Messages
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I have a 40 x 64 x 14 building, it's a wide open space. My work converted all of the fixtures to LED and I have access to the old 6 bulb T5 high bays which are only about 8 years old. The price is right (free) and the fixtures can be used as 4 or 6 bulb units. Is it practical to try and use this fixture and spread the light around evenly? The reflectors can also be removed.
 

cybrdyke

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I have a 40 x 64 x 14 building, it's a wide open space. My work converted all of the fixtures to LED and I have access to the old 6 bulb T5 high bays which are only about 8 years old. The price is right (free) and the fixtures can be used as 4 or 6 bulb units. Is it practical to try and use this fixture and spread the light around evenly? The reflectors can also be removed.

Will they be free? If so, you can use them a few different ways, depending on the style of the fixture.
You could just use them as they are...with T5HO lamps.
You could use them as they are....with LED lamps.
You could do a little re-wiring to bypass the ballasts and use LED tubes.
It's good to have options!
Good luck,
CD
 

Uncle Phil

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Joined
Dec 14, 2012
Messages
19
Yeah, free so I think I lucked out there. I want to re-wire them for LED tubes I think. I guess I need to figure out the best layout. I could wire up only four bulbs and the reflectors are removeable.
 

86turbodsl

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Michigan
I have a 40x64x14 space and 18 T5HO 4 bulb fixtures and i absolutely love it. I'm running about 100 fc in my space. Free is good and grab em!
 

tinysparky

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Messages
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Costco led fixtures. $21 each after rebate 4 can be chained together. Figure 43 is a good start on 3 switched circuitsde576dd17714d6540b7d7da5d683cf91.jpg

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 

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Uncle Phil

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I have a 40x64x14 space and 18 T5HO 4 bulb fixtures and i absolutely love it. I'm running about 100 fc in my space. Free is good and grab em!

Thanks, I checked out your build thread and it seems like it is lit just right. I think I just need to hang one fixture up and experiment with the light output.

Also, I feel your pain on moving stuff from one corner to the next to get something done. You really need one barn to keep all of your stuff in while you are finishing the other, but that's life.
 
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Homer14

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Ann Arbor, MI.
You will not be disapointed! Make sure you order the surface mount brackets if you plan on flush mounting. I have a video showing how they go together....


I watched your video link. I noticed you did batts side by side with no spacer/mounting wood purlins or studs. This is an interesting idea and similar to that of hanging insulation blankets behind those purlins that you probably are mounting your steel siding to.

Did you do that insulation between the 8' or whatever foot posts you have the same way, without studs between? Just kind of sandwich them together and then hold them in place with the outer 2x4's ?

I may do that, i was thinking of blankets until i saw your method in the video. I just wonder what you did between the posts in the larger gaps? Have any pics?
 

howpeculiar

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 23, 2014
Messages
77
Oh, there is a frame in there to nail to! I built them as I went. In some of the videos I think you can see that I was using 8 foot studs, and building a header. Then when we did the top half, just dit another 66 inches, then used three studs to build the nailing surface for the freize and J channel....

This video shows it reasonably well

older one too, look behind the double door while I was trying to do the insulation on the inside, you can see the studs...
 
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theoldwizard1

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 22, 2011
Messages
43,114
Location
SE MI
lumens per fixture 11200
energy consumption 1536


lumens per fixture 20000
energy consumption 1512

lumens per fixture 8200
energy consumption 1530

I can not believe that the energy consumption of the 3 different fixtures is that close, assuming the total lumens is the same.
 

ard

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 16, 2015
Messages
4,391
Location
Sierra Foothills... California
I'd love to see pictures of the T5 and T8s first thing in the morning, un heated, when it is 5 degrees out..

I switched to LEDs and couldn't be happier. For me it isn't about a few $hundred here or there, rather functionality.
 

CJ7VFR

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 13, 2015
Messages
2,939
Location
Central New Jersey
I'd love to see pictures of the T5 and T8s first thing in the morning, un heated, when it is 5 degrees out..

I switched to LEDs and couldn't be happier. For me it isn't about a few $hundred here or there, rather functionality.

Unless the camera has night vision on it, you wouldn't see very much!!!!

I have all T8 4 foot twin tube fluorescent shop lights in my garage ceiling, and now that the temperature is damn near zero here in New Jersey, they don't give off much light at all.

I have a few can lights in the garage as well over my work bench, and I had CFL bulbs in them, and they don't work for **** when it's cold. I put in the CFL's because I had them laying around and figured why buy new bulbs when I had those.

I just replaced all the CFL bulbs in those can lights with some 5000K LED BR30 bulbs that were on sale at Lowes, and holy **** what a difference! Instant on, instant bright, instant light! Just like when I had old incandescent bulbs way back when.

I showed my wife and she said how come the lights on the ceiling don't work? I told her they do work, just not when it's really cold. She said I should get new LED bulbs for the ceiling lights too, especially if I work out there when it's cold.

I agree, and will do that very soon. I agree with you. Sometimes it is not about a few hundred bucks, but about the functionality of the work space, and whether or not you can actually work there or not. As it is right now, I can't work in the garage because it is too dark, and because it is too cold for fluorescent bulbs to work properly.

Jim
 
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