Okay, after much delay, here's an update on the other additions to my air compressor network that I hinted at last time.
I normally keep my 80-gal compressor fully charged all the time, but shut off the distro system just above the tank via a manual ball valve when I'm done using air tools. This keeps the tank from cycling due to small leaks in the distro system. Now that the compressor will be supplying air for two buildings, I wanted an easy way to activate the valve from the new garage. I also wanted an indicator to show when the valve was open so that I'd know the status of the valve and have a visual reminder to close the valve when done. So, after some creative shopping, and a few misfires, I settled on an electrically-activated 3/4" ball valve with built in open/closed state switches.
Here's the one I bought:
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/273030881172
I also wanted to add an automatic tank drain, because I'm terrible about remembering to do that regularly. That, and the tiny little stock drain valve is a pain in the **** to open when the tank is fully pressurized. Here's the valve I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015IY9VJI/?tag=atomicindus08-20
... and the water that was in the tank when I depressurized it for this work.
My plan required a new 120V circuit to the compressor to power both valves. The 3/4" valve is controlled from switches at three locations (tank-side, workbench-side and new garage) via a four-way switch circuit. The valve state signal is distributed to the same locations via 12V, 22-gauge speaker wire. The tank auto drain has a built-in timer, but the longest interval available is 45 minutes. Since I only need it to run maybe once per day, I'll control it via an outlet connected a vintage timer I picked up at a sale. Here's the schematic:
The ball valve installed without a hitch, and after a little second guessing (that's just part of the creative process, right?

I routed the flexible line to the closest end of the existing 3/4" galvanized distro piping. This involved weaving the line around one garage door jack shaft and down the wall to the utility pipe. Not as tidy as I could envision, but functional.



Here's the timer I put to work, an ancient Sangamo that's way overkill for this application, but the price was right! Behind the timer you can see the ball valve switch and the outlet. One side of the outlet gets full-time power for the 12V power source and the other is controlled by the timer. The black and red speaker wire will activate an LED that will light when the valve is open.
The second switch went to the workbench side, on the same wall as the wrench rack. This one will just house a switch, but I put it in as a 2-gang after deciding a single wouldn't leave much room for the indicator. I modified a double blank cover for switch and light, and voila!



It works great! The valve takes a few seconds to open when energized, and so the distro system gradually pressurizes, rather than being hit with a sharp blast. When power is cut, the valve automatically closes. I still need to pull the three-way circuit conductor thru the utility pipe to the other building, but I'll wait until the building inspections are done.
This was a bit of an extravagance--$200 and two day's work just to save a trip between the garages. But seeing and hearing it work in real life after dreaming it up made it totally worth it!
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