Outlawmws
Well-known member
That's quite the resurrection ZB! Well done!
Craftsman Drill Press
- Thread starter FrankLee
- Start date
tmwshasta
New member
Hello All,
Member of VM but new member here.
I also have a Jacobs 6426 chuck and have had little luck finding information and parts. I was hoping to ask some questions.
My chuck is missing the cammed allen bolt that tightens the jaws. I am looking for that piece.
My other options are:
1. replace the chuck with the same chuck that has all of its pieces
2. replace the chuck with another that mates with the same spindle (I really don't want to replace the spindle). As jweier111 explained, the spindle is a 5/8" shaft with a flat face ground onto the end of it. There is no taper.
I tried to follow the link FrankLee supplied for a newer chuck that mated with that spindle but the link was broken. I have done a fair amount of searching and have yet to find a chuck that appears to mount in the same way. Am I missing something?
thanks for your time!
Michael Williams
530-859-3468
Member of VM but new member here.
I also have a Jacobs 6426 chuck and have had little luck finding information and parts. I was hoping to ask some questions.
My chuck is missing the cammed allen bolt that tightens the jaws. I am looking for that piece.
My other options are:
1. replace the chuck with the same chuck that has all of its pieces
2. replace the chuck with another that mates with the same spindle (I really don't want to replace the spindle). As jweier111 explained, the spindle is a 5/8" shaft with a flat face ground onto the end of it. There is no taper.
I tried to follow the link FrankLee supplied for a newer chuck that mated with that spindle but the link was broken. I have done a fair amount of searching and have yet to find a chuck that appears to mount in the same way. Am I missing something?
thanks for your time!
Michael Williams
530-859-3468
dp#54
Welcome Michael.
I’m not familiar with that cammed Allen bolt. Can you post some pictures of your chuck? You’ll need five posts to upload pics to GJ, but you can use a hosting site and link to pics.
4/21/2019
DP#54 is another 103.24511 from Highland, MI.
It was priced right, but it’s in rough shape and missing several pieces;
WTF?!?! There is a 2" bolt that replaced the motor pulley set screw!
Welcome Michael.
I’m not familiar with that cammed Allen bolt. Can you post some pictures of your chuck? You’ll need five posts to upload pics to GJ, but you can use a hosting site and link to pics.
4/21/2019
DP#54 is another 103.24511 from Highland, MI.
It was priced right, but it’s in rough shape and missing several pieces;
- the feed stop rod and rapid adjust collar
- one feed handle knob
- the quill lock handle, bolt and sleeve cylinder
WTF?!?! There is a 2" bolt that replaced the motor pulley set screw!
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454ragtop
Well-known member
Michael, I have a Jacobs 3326 1/2" chuck made to mount to a 5/8" straight spindle, has a set screw to lock it in place. PM me if you have interest.
ZBear
Well-known member
$150 Northern Iowa. Not mine.
https://masoncity.craigslist.org/tls/d/osage-craftsman-vintage-drill-press/6865086993.html
https://masoncity.craigslist.org/tls/d/osage-craftsman-vintage-drill-press/6865086993.html
dp#55
Here is dp#55 (Waterford), a 13-1/2" Craftsman 80 model number 103.23640 made before 1951.
Because of its age, technically, I believe this is a 13-1/2” Craftsman 100. For clarity and consistency, I’ll refer to it as an 80.
It came with a 1/4 hp Powr-Kraft motor with a date code of J-47. The original paint is in nice shape and should clean up ok.
I've had a few drill presses in the past. On some, I have had a few WTF!!! moments, but I think this one rates the WTF-est!
This was originally a bench model, but a previous owner converted it to a floor-standing unit. So, OK. He used a 72" long piece of stainless steel pipe. Still, OK, whatever.
Problem #1 is that wall thickness of the pipe is only ~0.051! WTF!!!
Problem #2 is that he attempted to weld the pipe to the base! Thankfully, the weld failed, of course.
Problem #3 is that there is a huge dent in the pipe where the table clamped onto the column.
Problem #4 is that a long bolt was used through the base to secure the column to the base. This caused an outward-facing dimple that prevented the column from coming apart from the base. So, with some creative thinking, a couple strategic cuts, lots of whaling with a hammer and chisel, and a bunch of cursing, I finally got this machine apart.
Despite the WTF-ness of this machine, the price was good and it looks to be solid, but dirty.
I can finally re-purpose the tubular Craftsman lathe bed as a drill press column for this machine.
4/30/2019
Here are a couple more clues as to the age of this machine. I've only seen both of these once before. It’s my belief that these features are from the earliest post-war King-Seeley machines.
The spindle pulley has what I believe to be an oil port to lubricate the pulley bearings.
The feed stop bracket is a closed loop. A bracket from a Craftsman 150 is on the right. I had to cut that loop on dp#25 and I'll likely do the same on this one.
5/3/2019
All parts from dp#55 are clean except the head frame casting and the motor mount.
5/7/2019
DP#55 is complete!
Here is dp#55 (Waterford), a 13-1/2" Craftsman 80 model number 103.23640 made before 1951.
Because of its age, technically, I believe this is a 13-1/2” Craftsman 100. For clarity and consistency, I’ll refer to it as an 80.
It came with a 1/4 hp Powr-Kraft motor with a date code of J-47. The original paint is in nice shape and should clean up ok.
I've had a few drill presses in the past. On some, I have had a few WTF!!! moments, but I think this one rates the WTF-est!
This was originally a bench model, but a previous owner converted it to a floor-standing unit. So, OK. He used a 72" long piece of stainless steel pipe. Still, OK, whatever.
Problem #1 is that wall thickness of the pipe is only ~0.051! WTF!!!
Problem #2 is that he attempted to weld the pipe to the base! Thankfully, the weld failed, of course.
Problem #3 is that there is a huge dent in the pipe where the table clamped onto the column.
Problem #4 is that a long bolt was used through the base to secure the column to the base. This caused an outward-facing dimple that prevented the column from coming apart from the base. So, with some creative thinking, a couple strategic cuts, lots of whaling with a hammer and chisel, and a bunch of cursing, I finally got this machine apart.
Despite the WTF-ness of this machine, the price was good and it looks to be solid, but dirty.
I can finally re-purpose the tubular Craftsman lathe bed as a drill press column for this machine.
4/30/2019
Here are a couple more clues as to the age of this machine. I've only seen both of these once before. It’s my belief that these features are from the earliest post-war King-Seeley machines.
The spindle pulley has what I believe to be an oil port to lubricate the pulley bearings.
The feed stop bracket is a closed loop. A bracket from a Craftsman 150 is on the right. I had to cut that loop on dp#25 and I'll likely do the same on this one.
5/3/2019
All parts from dp#55 are clean except the head frame casting and the motor mount.
5/7/2019
DP#55 is complete!
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paulm12
Well-known member
Jim: nice work on the 80/100. The pipe WTF is too funny.
paulm12
Well-known member
As I had mentioned last fall, my CMan 80 works well except for the run-out. I found another drill press that I am hoping to remove the spindle and try in the refurbished machine. It is a 103.23120. I have not found the manual yet for this exact model.
- overall good shape, the PO ran it for me. But after seeing the wiring, I am surprised it didn't start on fire. Every connection was just loosely wrapped and taped.
- run-out seemed good, just by eye. Fingers crossed !!
- the chuck seems good.
- alot of grease on the quill, pinion and spindle. Alot.
- 3/4 hp motor with some very poor wiring hacks.
- a user installed depth stop with a grease zerk??
I've got the quill/spindle assembly out of the machine, and again, alot of old but clean grease. I need to find a spanner tool for this chuck.
Since this was intended to be a donor machine, I may sell the motor if it is worth anything, and wait for another donor.
.
- overall good shape, the PO ran it for me. But after seeing the wiring, I am surprised it didn't start on fire. Every connection was just loosely wrapped and taped.
- run-out seemed good, just by eye. Fingers crossed !!
- the chuck seems good.
- alot of grease on the quill, pinion and spindle. Alot.
- 3/4 hp motor with some very poor wiring hacks.
- a user installed depth stop with a grease zerk??
I've got the quill/spindle assembly out of the machine, and again, alot of old but clean grease. I need to find a spanner tool for this chuck.
Since this was intended to be a donor machine, I may sell the motor if it is worth anything, and wait for another donor.
.
Attachments
paulm12
Well-known member
paulm12
Well-known member
FrankLee: thanks again for your assistance.
- yes the chuck is a Supreme 6T33C.
- there is old grease everywhere, the quill cavity was packed with grease. The quill lock spring was filled with grease. The set screws on the spindle bearings were replaced with more grease zerks, and that cavity was full of grease. But all this was good, it kept the rust down to a minimum.
I have the assemblies all apart except for the chuck, I don't have the right size spanner. Ugh, I want to fully clean the new spindle and check run-out now.
Thanks again.
- yes the chuck is a Supreme 6T33C.
- there is old grease everywhere, the quill cavity was packed with grease. The quill lock spring was filled with grease. The set screws on the spindle bearings were replaced with more grease zerks, and that cavity was full of grease. But all this was good, it kept the rust down to a minimum.
I have the assemblies all apart except for the chuck, I don't have the right size spanner. Ugh, I want to fully clean the new spindle and check run-out now.
Thanks again.
Attachments
bagged89s10
Well-known member
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
look what I found. Finally found a floor standing unit in good condition and within my cheap budget. As a bonus, it came with a slow speed middle pulley. The rotary table on the bottom was a separate purchase.
I’m using the base and column as a donor for my bench model which has the vari-slo setup. I prefer the gray color and that one only needs some more simple green cleaning. I’m not a fan of the gold. I’ll probably pop off the engine turned trim piece as well.
Am I better off parting the unit out, or selling a bench model with mismatched color base?
look what I found. Finally found a floor standing unit in good condition and within my cheap budget. As a bonus, it came with a slow speed middle pulley. The rotary table on the bottom was a separate purchase.
I’m using the base and column as a donor for my bench model which has the vari-slo setup. I prefer the gray color and that one only needs some more simple green cleaning. I’m not a fan of the gold. I’ll probably pop off the engine turned trim piece as well.
Am I better off parting the unit out, or selling a bench model with mismatched color base?
Attachments
atch
Well-known member
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
Obviously these are yours to do with as you please.
However, I use both of mine. The gold floor model ONLY gets wood drilled, and the gray bench top model ONLY gets metal drilled. That way I never have sawdust around my metal projects and never have oil messing up wood projects.
So, I suggest you keep both of them and after doing what you plan with the gray one on the floor stand, use the remaining gold one on the bench top base.
Just my 2 cents worth; and probably worth less than what you paid.
I have the same two units. Excepting that the variable speed drive is on the gold floor model instead of the gray bench top model.look what I found. Finally found a floor standing unit in good condition and within my cheap budget. As a bonus, it came with a slow speed middle pulley. The rotary table on the bottom was a separate purchase.
I’m using the base and column as a donor for my bench model which has the vari-slo setup. I prefer the gray color and that one only needs some more simple green cleaning. I’m not a fan of the gold. I’ll probably pop off the engine turned trim piece as well.
Am I better off parting the unit out, or selling a bench model with mismatched color base?
Obviously these are yours to do with as you please.
However, I use both of mine. The gold floor model ONLY gets wood drilled, and the gray bench top model ONLY gets metal drilled. That way I never have sawdust around my metal projects and never have oil messing up wood projects.
So, I suggest you keep both of them and after doing what you plan with the gray one on the floor stand, use the remaining gold one on the bench top base.
Just my 2 cents worth; and probably worth less than what you paid.
Attachments
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
Congrats!
That middle pulley is for an earlier Atlas-made machine with the swept-back head frame. Still a very good find!
I'm not a gold fan either.
Parts are almost always worth more than the whole. My criteria for parting out usually has to do with condition and how many parts are missing or broken.
You can always use the bench base, column and the gold table as a grinder stand. Recently, I've had some very good luck selling those dp pedestal stands for $60 to $80.
If the gold machine is equipped and the gray machine is not, other parts to swap to your keeper machine:
Congrats!
That middle pulley is for an earlier Atlas-made machine with the swept-back head frame. Still a very good find!
I'm not a gold fan either.
Parts are almost always worth more than the whole. My criteria for parting out usually has to do with condition and how many parts are missing or broken.
You can always use the bench base, column and the gold table as a grinder stand. Recently, I've had some very good luck selling those dp pedestal stands for $60 to $80.
If the gold machine is equipped and the gray machine is not, other parts to swap to your keeper machine:
- the rapid adjust feed stop
- the quill assembly with the snap ring
- steel lock cylinders for the softer cast cylinders
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bagged89s10
Well-known member
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
Yes I agree with keeping 2 drill presses. The craftsman with Vari-Slo is my metal drilling machine. I recently picked up a clean delta which is my wood machine.
Yes I agree with keeping 2 drill presses. The craftsman with Vari-Slo is my metal drilling machine. I recently picked up a clean delta which is my wood machine.
Attachments
bagged89s10
Well-known member
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
What do the rapid adjust feed and steel lock cylinders look like? I don’t think either of my machines have the rapid adjust. What part is the lock cylinder?
What do the rapid adjust feed and steel lock cylinders look like? I don’t think either of my machines have the rapid adjust. What part is the lock cylinder?
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
Rapid-adjust feed stop:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3602221&post3602221
Lock cylinders:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5443008#post5443008
Rapid-adjust feed stop:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3602221&post3602221
Lock cylinders:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5443008#post5443008
bagged89s10
Well-known member
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
thanks. so by the lock cylinders you mean the table lock or the quill locks?
thanks. so by the lock cylinders you mean the table lock or the quill locks?
dp#56, dp#57
Yes, any/all of them.
5/8/2019
DP#56 is another King-Seeley 15½" bench-top model 103.23131 I picked up today in Shelby Twp.
This is another one with nice original paint. It has two column collars and a couple "unique" features.
The date code on the motor is L 2 51, so this dp is likely a 1951 model. There are several things that make me believe this is a transitional machine.
5/10/2019
The base is complete and cleaned nicely with Bar Keepers Friend and a finishing sander!
5/10/2019
Here's the column before and after a 6 hour vinegar bath in the soaking chamber and a light scrub rinse with a scotch bright sponge pad. A final sanding and wax to come.
5/11/2019
The head frame is dismantled. Both pulley retaining screws were broken.
5/13/2019
The motor for dp#56 is complete... cleaned, new cord, new switch, repacked bearings and a thermal switch transplant from dp#57.
5/17/2019
The quill/spindle and spindle pulley assemblies are complete.
5/18/2019
The chuck is complete.
The table is complete.
5/19/2019
The head frame is re-assembled. Those previously painted parts polished up beautifully!
5/27/2019
I finally finished dp#56. It 's gotta be in my top five nicest.
5/10/2019
DP#57 is another King-Seeley 15½" bench-top model 103.23131 I picked up today in Macomb Twp.
This is the perfect machine at the perfect time. It was badly repainted... three times! It's missing a few things and has a couple broken parts. It's condition is poor enough to strip for the parts I need for dp#56 and to part-out the rest.
Yes, any/all of them.
5/8/2019
DP#56 is another King-Seeley 15½" bench-top model 103.23131 I picked up today in Shelby Twp.
This is another one with nice original paint. It has two column collars and a couple "unique" features.
- The feed stop bracket was intentionally cut and the inside lip was removed (and I just sold one of these, figures!).
- I presume that a sleeve was installed on the quill for a mortise attachment. The sleeve OD is 66mm. Delta makes one with that size.
- The motor switch toggle is broken off.
The date code on the motor is L 2 51, so this dp is likely a 1951 model. There are several things that make me believe this is a transitional machine.
- This machine has all painted handles, knobs, bracket, hub. Nothing is chrome plated, but it does have the head frame trim panel; a combination I did not know existed.
- Below is a picture of the locks. From left to right, head frame lock, table lock, quill lock, and tilt lock. Notice anything unusual?
The rusty pieces are steel and the others are cast aluminum(?). I've never seen mixed parts like that before.
- I believe '51 was the last year for the separate lock handle lever and bolt.
5/10/2019
The base is complete and cleaned nicely with Bar Keepers Friend and a finishing sander!
5/10/2019
Here's the column before and after a 6 hour vinegar bath in the soaking chamber and a light scrub rinse with a scotch bright sponge pad. A final sanding and wax to come.
5/11/2019
The head frame is dismantled. Both pulley retaining screws were broken.
5/13/2019
The motor for dp#56 is complete... cleaned, new cord, new switch, repacked bearings and a thermal switch transplant from dp#57.
5/17/2019
The quill/spindle and spindle pulley assemblies are complete.
5/18/2019
The chuck is complete.
The table is complete.
5/19/2019
The head frame is re-assembled. Those previously painted parts polished up beautifully!
5/27/2019
I finally finished dp#56. It 's gotta be in my top five nicest.
5/10/2019
DP#57 is another King-Seeley 15½" bench-top model 103.23131 I picked up today in Macomb Twp.
This is the perfect machine at the perfect time. It was badly repainted... three times! It's missing a few things and has a couple broken parts. It's condition is poor enough to strip for the parts I need for dp#56 and to part-out the rest.
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paulm12
Well-known member
So I am continuing work on the parts machine, got the chuck off and saw this on the spindle end. Is this OEM, or modified? The end of the spindle is much shorter, no noticeable taper, and a milled flat. The newer to me spindle is on the left on the 1st pic, and bottom on 2nd. The other spindle is the only type I know so far.
I guess I will use the Supreme chuck, on the non-taper spindle and see how the run-out is. But first I will disassemble the chuck. Like everything else, it is loaded with grease, and hopefully a full set of BBs.
Time to read up on Supreme chucks.
Thanks.
I guess I will use the Supreme chuck, on the non-taper spindle and see how the run-out is. But first I will disassemble the chuck. Like everything else, it is loaded with grease, and hopefully a full set of BBs.
Time to read up on Supreme chucks.
Thanks.
Attachments
paulm12
Well-known member
Thanks for response FrankLee: the diameter of the new spindle is 5/8", with very litte to no taper. That spindle is also 1/4" shorter than my original one. Yes on the thick washer, see new pics. And I do not see any provision for a screw through the chuck into the spindle. The chuck was apparently only held on by the threaded collar.
The fun continues .....
The fun continues .....
Attachments
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paulm12
Well-known member
Yep. The one part that I wanted from this "donor" machine, and it is different/modified. Guess I gotta find another machine ....
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shortyg83
Active member
So after looking for quite a while I found a craftsman 150 Bench model late version to restore. Everything is going well so far, though I just started on it today.
I am having one issue though. When I got it home I tested it to see how it ran. And it seems like the motor has a lot of vibration in it. It looks like the rubber motor mount on the top is also slightly bubbled on one side. Is this possible from the belt being either to loose or tight or likely another issue?
Update so this is model 113.24501 and I was trying to read what the belt on it said. I couldn't read all the stuff on the belt but I was able to make out Craftsman 4L420. Meaning it is a 42" belt. Is it possible this belt was to short which is what was causing the vibration? I think it is suppose to be a 44" belt.
I am having one issue though. When I got it home I tested it to see how it ran. And it seems like the motor has a lot of vibration in it. It looks like the rubber motor mount on the top is also slightly bubbled on one side. Is this possible from the belt being either to loose or tight or likely another issue?
Update so this is model 113.24501 and I was trying to read what the belt on it said. I couldn't read all the stuff on the belt but I was able to make out Craftsman 4L420. Meaning it is a 42" belt. Is it possible this belt was to short which is what was causing the vibration? I think it is suppose to be a 44" belt.
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Welcome Shorty!
Vibration issues are often belt related... especially with original 60 year old belts. Belts can become very stiff and retain a memory of the small pulley. Also, verify that the belt is square to the spindle and also to the motor shaft.
Belt part numbers often refer to the inside diameter of the belt and the resulting size is 2" longer for the outside diameter of the belt. So, 4L420 is a 44.0" belt.
Yes, 44" is the spec'd size for your machine. On your machine with the hinged motor mount with clip, you may be able to go slightly shorter or longer; 43.5" to 44.5".
I really like Autozone's Duralast cogged belts. Check the "V-belt Replacement" link in the first post of this thread and also this link.
The motors on the later machines are referred to as resilient mount or cradle mount. The rings may be replaceable, but I've never found anything that fits a Craftsman motor, but then I haven't looked too hard. You can search for resilient motor mount rings. I think I would first try to flip and rotate the original rings.
You will get differing opinions on whether resilient mount motors should be used in a vertical position. I recommend looking for your motor in an old catalog. Craftsman catalogs usually say whether these motors can be mounted in any position.
If you haven't discovered it yet, Craftsman Power Tool catalogs and owners manuals for your machine can be found on that vintage machines website.
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shortyg83
Active member
Thanks for the info. I have few more questions if you don't mind since you are the resident expert.
I had to take the drill completely apart because the old grease was gunked up and kind of hard so nothing was moving smoothly. Dissasembly went mostly fine.
The bearings in both pullys seem to be completely fine they spin freely and smooth.
So here is the questions.
1. I got the spindle out but i notice it does not spin smoothly. While turning it it is slightly getting stuck through the turn but it isnt hard to turn. I can just feel it isnt smooth and may be causing some of that vibration i was getting. Does that mean the bearings are shot or is it possible if i take the ends off and spray some lithium grease in there that it may free up what was causing the sticking?
2. For some reason the head release lever was on the right side which makes no sense to me because it bumps your hand when lowering the press to drill some thing. Is it fine to just reverse the handle to the left side when reassembled? I see pics of others who have it installed both ways.
3. The feed stop rod assembly is missing which i didn't realize when i bought it, is three anywhere to purchase it for a not crazy price?
4. I know this will annoy some people who like to keep vintage items original but i am gong to paint this most likely orange. My question is would it be save to pressure wash the cast iron parts before i paint? All the parts are already out of them?
Sorry to ask so much i just really was excited to finally get one, and glue to have it finished this weekend.
shortyg83
Active member
So a couple of updates. I bought a second craftsman to use as a part machine, but it is older and it also doesn't have the feed stop so that was kind of pointless. Depending on how this one goes I may try to refurbish the second one but the second one doesn't work at all currently.. No biggie only cost 5 dollar at a yard sale.
So I finally got the spindle out of the quill. My god that was a pain. But the top bearing in the quill is bad. when you turn it with your finger it feels like a bunch of rocks were used instead of ball bearings. The bottom bearing seems fine. The bearing is a Made in Japan Shielded Hoover 77202-10.
I am trying to find a replacement but the one sight says that the upper and lower quill bearings are different models but on my machine they are both the same Hoover bearing. Is there a good shielded replacement for these? If I am replacing the bad upper one I would prefer to do both.
So I finally got the spindle out of the quill. My god that was a pain. But the top bearing in the quill is bad. when you turn it with your finger it feels like a bunch of rocks were used instead of ball bearings. The bottom bearing seems fine. The bearing is a Made in Japan Shielded Hoover 77202-10.
I am trying to find a replacement but the one sight says that the upper and lower quill bearings are different models but on my machine they are both the same Hoover bearing. Is there a good shielded replacement for these? If I am replacing the bad upper one I would prefer to do both.
Accurate Bearing is a good place to order bearings. Check the bearing links in post #1. An important factor for the quill bearings is that they have a special 5/8" bore. Most bearing have metric measurements. If you go with Accurate, use the Request Quote feature. It will save them time.
I usually get sealed bearing for the quill and shielded for the spindle pulley.
When installing the new bearings, check out the freeze/heat technique.
I hope to see some pictures soon. Once you get to five posts, you should be ale to attach pictures. Or you can always use a hosting site.
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shortyg83
Active member
I am considering getting NSK bearings.
NSK 6202-10ZZ
I wanted to post a link but I am not allowed to yet. They have them on Amazon.
My question is when I reassemble do I attach to spindle or quill first?
NSK 6202-10ZZ
I wanted to post a link but I am not allowed to yet. They have them on Amazon.
My question is when I reassemble do I attach to spindle or quill first?
shortyg83
Active member
I actually think I found a way to get it together quite simply.
I got 2 sections of 8" long 3/4 galvanized pipe. Then got some large 3/4 washers. I can use the pipe and the washer over ther spindle so that i can tap the bearing and spindle in place with a hammer without damaging them.
I got 2 sections of 8" long 3/4 galvanized pipe. Then got some large 3/4 washers. I can use the pipe and the washer over ther spindle so that i can tap the bearing and spindle in place with a hammer without damaging them.
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shortyg83
Active member
I made a thread. The pics are there.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=7874491#post7874491
Also I went be the V-Belt replacement list on here and I got the Duralast 17440 which was listed as 44.2" . It is way to big. If I were to replace the belt that was on there I would probably have to move the motor out almost 2 inches. After looking it up the 4l420 belt I said it has is not 44"on the outside , it is in fact 42" on the outside.
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That 17440 belt is too big because your motor pulley is not the pulley that originally came with the drill press. It is much smaller, maybe 3"(?) on the largest step.
The way you're set-up now with the belt on the largest step of the motor pulley, you're spindle is spinning at roughly 3000 rpm (assuming your motor is 1725 rpm). That is screaming fast for most drilling applications.
Also, because of the mis-matched pulleys, you may not be able to lower the belt. IMO, you'd be better off with the 44.2" belt installed on the lowest pulley steps which would put you closer to 600 rpm.
The small step of the original motor pulley would be 1-3/4", the large step, 5".
Regardless, your refurb looks great! Nice job!
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shortyg83
Active member
That 17440 belt is too big because your motor pulley is not the pulley that originally came with the drill press. It is much smaller, maybe 3"(?) on the largest step.
The way you're set-up now with the belt on the largest step of the motor pulley, you're spindle is spinning at roughly 3000 rpm (assuming your motor is 1725 rpm). That is screaming fast for most drilling applications.
Also, because of the mis-matched pulleys, you may not be able to lower the belt. IMO, you'd be better off with the 44.2" belt installed on the lowest pulley steps which would put you closer to 600 rpm.
The small step of the original motor pulley would be 1-3/4", the large step, 5".
Regardless, your refurb looks great! Nice job!
I did buy a second machine for parts I should check that pully to see if. It is the correct size and maybe swap it over. How hard is it to change the motor pully?
Edit update the second one I bought had the same exact pully on the motor so that wont work. What size is the correct one? I will have to start looking for one.
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Well, that's a bummer... two machines with replaced pulleys.
Swapping pulleys can be easy or difficult. Many times, the set screw will back out. The pulley will then turn on the shaft and the set screw will scar/burr the shaft. The burr prevents the pulley from siding off. A puller is frequently required. That is what happened on the last two motors I got.
Check the following posts regarding motor pulleys.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6018082#post6018082
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4731213&post4731213
shortyg83
Active member
Im going to take measurements shortly on the two motor pulleys I have.
But I wonder if Iam better off keeping them. Most people are trying to slow these still presses down and if these are smaller diameter on the motor it should do just that. I don't plan on leaving the speed set that high. I just had it like that for testing. I will likely only use it on the lowest two speeds.
With the correct pulley the speeds are 5000, 2390,1280, and 610. If my pully is smaller across the board all of those numbers should be slightly lower.