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Modifications to the HF 4 and 5 drawer service carts - what changes have you made?

CoryDH

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VA
I just saw these paper towel and tray at the local store today. They had all the colors. Not sure if they are new but giving them a try. Magnetic so we'll see.20190907_151741.jpg

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fartymarty

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Fort Worth
Got some slides from the trash. Made a slide out tray
attachment.php
Nice work! Are you going to paint that plywood or cover it with the black vinyl or what?

I see you cut out the front and reinforced it on the bottom, is that documented or copied from somewhere else in this thread?
 

Radio Flyer

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Nice work! Are you going to paint that plywood or cover it with the black vinyl or what?

I see you cut out the front and reinforced it on the bottom, is that documented or copied from somewhere else in this thread?


Still have some finishing up to do.

The plywood is 1/2" that was laying around, I want to get some 3/4"
I'll paint the plywood and 2x4 spacers at the same time.

I want to add a back to the tray so I can store more stuff behind the craftsman box.

After rolling it around, it needs a latch to keep the tray from sliding out.


As for the reinforcement, someone from the thread used flat stock, but I had some angle iron laying around that i cut.
 

Catadj78

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I bought the yellow one for my 12vdc tools and such, I was so impressed I went and bought the white one too. It’s still in the box right now though5b634791691bd6a0d4998a15e126e5c9.jpg1e16d840f6f03116a0e96f7f1a1412a8.jpg7bc2a0695170928cfb99a5159469a7fa.jpg120c33a03863cdecb0b35058f162aea3.jpg


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Gcf11

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Filed down the plastic locks so they act as a detent. I could not stand the stupid locking system and this works way better.
 

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fartymarty

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Filed down the plastic locks so they act as a detent. I could not stand the stupid locking system and this works way better.

Great idea as long as the cart is only moved smoothly or not moved much at all. However if it's ever vehicle transported, or moved over bumpy areas, just remember that all the drawers could open and, depending how it's loaded, possibly risks it toppling over. With that in mind, a nice modification. :thumbup:
 

Gcf11

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Great idea as long as the cart is only moved smoothly or not moved much at all. However if it's ever vehicle transported, or moved over bumpy areas, just remember that all the drawers could open and, depending how it's loaded, possibly risks it toppling over. With that in mind, a nice modification. :thumbup:

Well it still has the drawer locks that go through the back of the box so with the lid closed, the drawers won’t open. But you are correct about the slides with the lid open. Luckily my shop is smooth and flat :)
 

fartymarty

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Well it still has the drawer locks that go through the back of the box so with the lid closed, the drawers won’t open. But you are correct about the slides with the lid open. Luckily my shop is smooth and flat :)

DOH!:wtf: ...I actually thought of that and went out and checked my cart to be sure. I came back in and thought I hadn't hit the enter button yet and just hit the back button and thought my post had gone into the bit bucket. Hrummphh!

Well, now I have to go out and do mine as well. Did you really use a file?... or some kind of grinder-sander-electric-thingie. (don't be intimidated by my use of technical nomenclature :) )
 

Gcf11

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DOH!:wtf: ...I actually thought of that and went out and checked my cart to be sure. I came back in and thought I hadn't hit the enter button yet and just hit the back button and thought my post had gone into the bit bucket. Hrummphh!

Well, now I have to go out and do mine as well. Did you really use a file?... or some kind of grinder-sander-electric-thingie. (don't be intimidated by my use of technical nomenclature :) )

Haha no worries :) and yeah just a basic ******* file I had. Probably took 45 minutes to do every drawer. You can go pretty hard at first but just make sure to check it every so often, go slower as you’re getting closer. I learned that if you can open the drawer with your hand on the same side of the lock but not the opposite side, you’re super close and just need a tiny bit more. Now all of mine open with my hand anywhere on the handle.


I may have to steal that idea from you I likey that. Mine is never moved.

Go for it! I’m sure other have done it before, but I’ve never seen any posts so I figured I would share :)
 

jmhinkle

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Filed down the plastic locks so they act as a detent. I could not stand the stupid locking system and this works way better.

I'm just the opposite. I love the drawer locks and have no issues with them at all. Work perfect for me on my slanted driveway. I did shorten the rear lock bars so they don't engage with the lid down unless I slip the pieces back in the caps. I hated not being able to open the drawers with the lid down especially since I can't open the lid where I store it.
 

PelicanPines

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I'm just the opposite. I love the drawer locks and have no issues with them at all. Work perfect for me on my slanted driveway. I did shorten the rear lock bars so they don't engage with the lid down unless I slip the pieces back in the caps. I hated not being able to open the drawers with the lid down especially since I can't open the lid where I store it.

Agree 100%... like button pressed. I eliminated the lid down locking mechanism to gain that little bit of space in the lid area.
 

Odd-job

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Yet another modification to bolt on more tools to the outside. Steel stock plus Olsa screwdriver holder riveted on.

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txrob5150

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I am new to site so this is my first post - been lurking for quite some time on the HF cart thread.....

Am planning on buying one during next parking lot sale and already planning my mods. Couple of quick questions on some of the mods:
1. Has anyone found a less expensive version of the Snap-on bumpers?
2. for those using the Snap-on side panels, what is the distance between the square holes or "pegs"? Has anyone found a generic metal pegboard that works as well as the Snap-on panels?

Also, does anyone have mods they did either before install as during install?

Thanks everyone
 

jakemac

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For bumpers, you could try searching at Baby stores for corner bumpers for furniture.

For the metal pegboard, I think someone posted that they found something at Home Depot or Lowes, but I don’t know about the sizing. They may have fit the series 1 carts, I’m not sure if they’ve been used on the new series 2 carts.


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fartymarty

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Also, does anyone have mods they did either before install as during install?

Thanks everyone
Any changes that you want to make to the bottom should be done first before the assembly, such as cutting out the front of the bottom shelf and reinforcing the metal below the cutout...or changing to different casters and any changes needed by that change. The only thing I wish I had done before the assembly that I ended up doing after the assembly (two at a time :( ) was paint the heads of the carriage bolts black.

I purchased black metal pegboard from Lowe's but I've yet to install it so I can't really say how easy it's going to be, however, I'm going to make it work somehow.
 

PelicanPines

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I am new to site so this is my first post - been lurking for quite some time on the HF cart thread.....

Am planning on buying one during next parking lot sale and already planning my mods. Couple of quick questions on some of the mods:
1. Has anyone found a less expensive version of the Snap-on bumpers?
2. for those using the Snap-on side panels, what is the distance between the square holes or "pegs"? Has anyone found a generic metal pegboard that works as well as the Snap-on panels?

Also, does anyone have mods they did either before install as during install?

Thanks everyone

Nearly all my mods were done during inital assembly... they are shown somewhere near page 55 of this thread.
 

zanyad

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Nearly all my mods were done during inital assembly... they are shown somewhere near page 55 of this thread.

Here ya go: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3989999#post3989999

Ok, I'm done.
1. Removed lid activated drawer locks
2. Snap On Hinges
3. Grommets in all the screw driver holes
4. Door Trim all the upper and lower edges including lid
5. Remove US General Badge
6. Cut and enforce bottom shelf to store dewalt metal cases
7. Enclose right panel with trim
8. Install 13 amp power outlet
9. Hoffman 150lb side folding shelf
10. Install hooks and hanging bar on back
11. 20 inch magnetic bars on lid (modified)
12. Matt's Plier Racks !!!

~~ Done ~~:rocker:
 

darkzero

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Late to the party, or shall I say back to the party. I got the gen1 5-drawer cart back when they were $149. Always wanted a black one. When I saw the $169 coupon for the gen2 I went & got me one. The gen1 does feel like it was better built. Gen2 top lid feels flimsier, measured the thickness & it is thinner. Drawer liners included with the gen2 are really thin compared to the gen1 but whatever, I'll just make new ones. This time I got the folding side table. I also have two trays for spray cans or whatever. Just need to add the door edge trim again.

Thanks to whoever posted on how they drilled out the rivets to access the drawer locks. I did the same. Cut them on my bandsaw using the work stop so both are exactly the same length & sit just slightly below the covers. I drilled holes in the cut off pieces before sticking them back into the covers in case for some reason I ever need to pull them back out. I had planned on giving my gen1 cart to my buddy but just before loading it into my truck I decided to keep it. Now that I'm keeping the red one I guess I'll do the same to it.

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MushCreek

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Funny thing about the steel thickness. I bought a new yellow one, and compared it to my old red one. Some places were thinner, yet some were thicker. I think they just run whatever steel shows up at the factory.
 

jmhinkle

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Portland, OR
Late to the party, or shall I say back to the party. I got the gen1 5-drawer cart back when they were $149. Always wanted a black one. When I saw the $169 coupon for the gen2 I went & got me one. The gen1 does feel like it was better built. Gen2 top lid feels flimsier, measured the thickness & it is thinner. Drawer liners included with the gen2 are really thin compared to the gen1 but whatever, I'll just make new ones. This time I got the folding side table. I also have two trays for spray cans or whatever. Just need to add the door edge trim again.

Thanks to whoever posted on how they drilled out the rivets to access the drawer locks. I did the same. Cut them on my bandsaw using the work stop so both are exactly the same length & sit just slightly below the covers. I drilled holes in the cut off pieces before sticking them back into the covers in case for some reason I ever need to pull them back out. I had planned on giving my gen1 cart to my buddy but just before loading it into my truck I decided to keep it. Now that I'm keeping the red one I guess I'll do the same to it.

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You know you can put tape right over the top and cut them with a multi tool right? No reason to remove all that from the cart.
 

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darkzero

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You know you can put tape right over the top and cut them with a multi tool right? No reason to remove all that from the cart.


Yep, that's exactly what I did not want to do. Removing & replacing 4 rivets was easy & gave me a cleaner result.
 

Greg85mcss

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Frederick MD
Does anyone know if there's an alternative to the snap on hinges? I've been checking occasionally for a few years and they're always out of stock.

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fartymarty

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Does anyone know if there's an alternative to the snap on hinges? I've been checking occasionally for a few years and they're always out of stock.

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I could be wrong and I frequently am, however I think that is standard for them. The black bumper pads I ordered from them were also always out of stock as well but I ordered them anyway and two weeks later I had them. I'm sure there are alternatives including almost any safety lid support for a child's toybox could be adapted, but if I were you I'd just go ahead and order the Snap-On ones here.

Let us know how long it takes if you do.
 

PelicanPines

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I could be wrong and I frequently am, however I think that is standard for them. The black bumper pads I ordered from them were also always out of stock as well but I ordered them anyway and two weeks later I had them. I'm sure there are alternatives including almost any safety lid support for a child's toybox could be adapted, but if I were you I'd just go ahead and order the Snap-On ones here.

Let us know how long it takes if you do.

^^^^--- this
 

Greg85mcss

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I've thought about asking my dealer but I'm still on the fence because the cart's gotten pretty beat up and that's more than I paid for it. I might just do some measurements and see if I can find a cheap alternative.

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darkzero

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I could be wrong and I frequently am, however I think that is standard for them. The black bumper pads I ordered from them were also always out of stock as well but I ordered them anyway and two weeks later I had them. I'm sure there are alternatives including almost any safety lid support for a child's toybox could be adapted, but if I were you I'd just go ahead and order the Snap-On ones here.

Let us know how long it takes if you do.


I just ordered them so we'll see what happens.


I think I f'd up though. Qty 1 is for one set of hinges? I ordered 2 not realizing it said "set". Oh well. :lol_hitti
 

rick carpenter

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Funny thing about the steel thickness. I bought a new yellow one, and compared it to my old red one. Some places were thinner, yet some were thicker. I think they just run whatever steel shows up at the factory.

I think that differences in composition and use of primers (if used) and paints from one generation to the next might affect also measurements.
 

fartymarty

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Yep, that's exactly what I did not want to do. Removing & replacing 4 rivets was easy & gave me a cleaner result.

I was originally thinking about using a multi-tool to just saw them off and I guess it's a viable way to do it, however having just used a multi-tool on another project with all it's noise, vibration, and chip throwing I decided that I'd just drill out the rivets. Still got some chips in the cart but I got them out with a quick shot of the shop vac. I just measured and marked carefully and sawed off the ends with a hack saw. Lightly de-burred the ends with a small file and gave the cut edges a quick shot of the Rustoleum Apple Red. Like darkzero, I too drilled the cut offs but for a different reason. As I couldn't think of any reason that I'd want to take them out of the plastic covers, I riveted them in place so I wouldn't lose them, as my covers didn't fit very tightly.

Yeah, I painted the rivet heads black with the left over touch up paint that I used on the bolt heads on the rest of the cart, which I'll admit is a little bit over the top for a HF tool cart :wtf: . But to my credit, I managed to share photos of my work (unlike darkzero) without including background shots of my nice lathe and vertical mill with a right angle indexing chuck, nor my bandsaw. (darkzero, you ****!:lol_hitti)

Edit:...and by the way, it may be obvious if you think about it but then you might not think about it, ..once the rivets are drilled and the cover removed you then need to open the drawers a little before you can lift the bar out vertically for sawing the tip off.:thumbup: Probably mentioned elsewhere in this huge thread, if so then enjoy the echo.:bounce:



 
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PelicanPines

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It looked like $11 something each on their website which would probably be about $30 for the pair with truck mark up. If that's for the pair I would do it for sure

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it is sold as a SET... they are TWO different hinges included... a LEFT and a RIGHT... part of a set... you don't buy TWO... you get TWO when you order ONE.

Edit: I'm not yelling... I'm old and grumpy.
 
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MattT

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It looked like $11 something each on their website which would probably be about $30 for the pair with truck mark up. If that's for the pair I would do it for sure

If your driver won't at least "price match" the online price just order a set from the website. Snap-ons web prices are full retail, to protect the dealer network, so you definitely shouldn't be paying more on the truck.
 
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