Compressor isolation pads. Where to find cheap?

evintho · Feb 27, 2007

I'll be picking up my I-R SS5N5 on Saturday and I'm trying to acquire everything I need beforehand. I'm looking for isolation pads like the ones in the pic but don't want to pay $100 at Grainger :shocking:

. Anyone know where I can get some decent quality pads at a reasonable price??

kartracer55 · Feb 27, 2007

Dicks Sporting goods....

hockey pucks! Apparantly alot of guys have been using them with good results.

1320stang · Feb 27, 2007

I bought new hockey pucks at the local ice rink for $2 each. Lowes had a 3/8" anchor bolt kit that had 4 anchors and the concrete drill bit in it for about $12-$13. You'll also want to get some fender washers to put between the puck and the foot.

KingPerformance · Feb 28, 2007

Hockey pucks work for under the compressor feet, but what about between the bolt and the compressor?

PoorOwner · Feb 28, 2007

I am getting Mcmaster Carr 64865K95 for mine.

eschoendorff · Feb 28, 2007

KingPerformance said:
Hockey pucks work for under the compressor feet, but what about between the bolt and the compressor?

You mean like a rubber bushing or grommet? I know that our local hardware store has some of those things in their Hillman display...

MAD · Feb 28, 2007

KingPerformance said:
Hockey pucks work for under the compressor feet, but what about between the bolt and the compressor?

The rubber bushing /washer from the top of a shock absorber (the type with a threaded stud) should work.

ba614 · Feb 28, 2007

if you're looking for a cheap way out ... pick up a truck thread cap off the side of the road and cut isolaters out of it ...

l_bilyk · Feb 28, 2007

Hockey puck guy here

bmwpower · Feb 28, 2007

Aren't hockey pucks too hard?

arkracing · Feb 28, 2007

bmwpower said:
Aren't hockey pucks too hard?

Yeh that's what I was thinking - I had the idea of maybe using some Old Flathead Ford motor mounts

motorheadjohn · Feb 28, 2007

tptools.com for all air compressor related setup items....

SteveL · Feb 28, 2007

I got four from Grainger like the ones in the pic for about $25 if I remember right. They are about 3" square and black rubber with cork in the center.

johnand · Feb 28, 2007

Mcmaster 6423K25

1320stang · Feb 28, 2007

bmwpower said:
Aren't hockey pucks too hard?

Only if fresh from their intended use. :bounce:

They're not that hard warm.

evintho · Feb 28, 2007

I bought 4 NHL hockey pucks today for $3.50 ea. I'm going to sink either 1/2" or 5/8" RedHeads into the concrete floor. Then I'll fab some 1/4" steel plates to sit on top of the pucks, set the compressor on those and use fender washers and the RedHead nuts to bolt it down. I don't see any reason to use rubber mounts on the top portion. You want to make the compressor one with the concrete anchors. The vulcanized rubber of the pucks acts as a dampner between the steel compressor mounting feet and the concrete floor. If I'm wrong, please, someone critique my logic!

KingPerformance · Mar 1, 2007

evintho said:
I bought 4 NHL hockey pucks today for $3.50 ea. I'm going to sink either 1/2" or 5/8" RedHeads into the concrete floor. Then I'll fab some 1/4" steel plates to sit on top of the pucks, set the compressor on those and use fender washers and the RedHead nuts to bolt it down. I don't see any reason to use rubber mounts on the top portion. You want to make the compressor one with the concrete anchors. The vulcanized rubber of the pucks acts as a dampner between the steel compressor mounting feet and the concrete floor. If I'm wrong, please, someone critique my logic!

You don't want the bolts transfering all the sound/vibration into the floor either.

Has anyone put dynamat on their tank yet? What about truck bedliner?

Uncle Buck · Mar 1, 2007

evintho said:
I bought 4 NHL hockey pucks today for $3.50 ea. I'm going to sink either 1/2" or 5/8" RedHeads into the concrete floor. Then I'll fab some 1/4" steel plates to sit on top of the pucks, set the compressor on those and use fender washers and the RedHead nuts to bolt it down. I don't see any reason to use rubber mounts on the top portion. You want to make the compressor one with the concrete anchors. The vulcanized rubber of the pucks acts as a dampner between the steel compressor mounting feet and the concrete floor. If I'm wrong, please, someone critique my logic!

It sounds like the way I would do it. :thumbup:

evintho · Mar 1, 2007

KingPerformance said:
You don't want the bolts transfering all the sound/vibration into the floor either.

OK. Kinda ****, but that makes sense! Anyone else?

russlaferrera · Mar 1, 2007

Rubber bushings from the engine sub assy on front wheel drive cars and it comes with washers. I see them in junk yards on the ground.

Used tires. If you have a large hole saw cut them out.

Charles (in GA) · Mar 1, 2007

Mason machinery Leveling Mounts from MSC. Two different p/n's hav e1/2-13 threaded studs, just the right size, CZ86803335 and CZ86435021. On sale thru Mar 3, four of them will cost about $40 plus tax. You can use them to level the compressor with too.

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMAKA=CZ86803335

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMAKA=CZ86435021

Charles

Catalog pages containing machinery and shockmounts and pads.

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF?PMPAGE=1638&PMS0NO=00000521297

Ramblur · Mar 1, 2007

You want cheap,beat this. Spent its 1st 5 yrs. bolted to the pallet it
shipped with. Last 5 or 6 on some cheap carpet. Works for me.

PoorOwner · Mar 2, 2007

I am confused, do you still need to bolt it to the floor if you are using some kind of isolation?

Mike F · Mar 2, 2007

I don't believe the compressor needs to be bolted down. As a matter of fact, when I purchased mine, I was specifically told NOT to bolt it down.
I saw the pads in the most recent HF catalog for $4.99, but here is the link to the online catalog. Seems to have what you nare looking for- steel plate, rubber padding, attachment bolts/holes.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=36004

PoorOwner · Mar 2, 2007

Mine said it MUST be bolted down!

SteveU · Mar 2, 2007

One guy on another forum has had his on the pallet it came on since 1973 & several others have left them on the pallet for 10 or more years. Once I find a permanent home for mine it will get bolted down.

bmwpower · Mar 2, 2007

PoorOwner said:
I am confused, do you still need to bolt it to the floor if you are using some kind of isolation?

If it's bolted down (NOT tight as this will eliminate the vibration isolation) it's not going to walk as the compressor runs over time.

If you use something to isolate the vibration that is still developed, you keep the tank from cracking or otherwise becoming damaged from continual vibration against the floor.... not to mention, you'll gain some sanity as it should help quiet any vibrations down.

Summary: You need to bolt it down, not tightly, but still provide some vibration isolation.

As far as leaving it on the pallet.... you might be able to get away with this, but why? What if the pallet breaks and your compressor comes toppling over? Pallets are generally not solid so there is some flex. Not a lot of isolation, so it's definitely going to be louder on a pallet than on a floor with isolation pads.

toolfreak · Mar 2, 2007

I just have my compressor sitting on pieces of rubber that I cut out of a conveyor belt. It's not bolted down and has yet to walk any at all.

evintho · Mar 2, 2007

Mike F said:
I don't believe the compressor needs to be bolted down. As a matter of fact, when I purchased mine, I was specifically told NOT to bolt it down.

Thanks for the link Mike. I live in the heart of earthquake country. The I-R is a 5' tall 500 lb monster sitting on a 32" base. Believe me, it needs to be bolted down!

Charles (in GA) · Mar 2, 2007

evintho said:
Thanks for the link Mike. I live in the heart of earthquake country. The I-R is a 5' tall 500 lb monster sitting on a 32" base. Believe me, it needs to be bolted down!

Consider bracing from the top mounting plate of the compressor to the wall, with some sort of shock mount or isolater to keep it from tipping in the event of earthquake activitiy.

Charels

Ramblur · Mar 3, 2007

No threat of earthquakes here,so bolting it down is not an issue for me,its
never even thought about moving on the carpet. Quess if the earth was
gonna shake I'd bolt it down or put a couple breakaway chains/cables to the
compressor section and just leave some slack in them.

Major Ramifications · Mar 3, 2007

An true isolator will not have a continuous bolt from the compressor to the concrete. They will be isolated from each other. This will keep everything happier, with less vibration, stress,and noise.
But, I took the cheap and easy way out and just left mine bolted to the pallet it came on. It's been this way for 15 years, and has never moved except when I moved it from our old house to the our new one. I can walk it out of it's corner if I need to, to clean or paint the floor.
Of course, down here earthquakes are something we see in movies, not actually real. Hurricanes, however are another story. Many guys around here have learned the hard way that compressors float upside down.

JohnZ · Mar 4, 2007

Mine is on automotive body mount cushions - much lower durometer than hockey pucks, excellent isolation. It's NOT anchored to the concrete - it's free-standing, in a corner, with two plastic-coated safety cables (with slack) attached with lag eyes through the drywall to wall studs; has never moved a millimeter in seven years.

PoorOwner · Mar 5, 2007

JohnZ said:
Mine is on automotive body mount cushions - much lower durometer than hockey pucks, excellent isolation. It's NOT anchored to the concrete - it's free-standing, in a corner, with two plastic-coated safety cables (with slack) attached with lag eyes through the drywall to wall studs; has never moved a millimeter in seven years.

The way I see it if I am using some kind of rubber feet, if I bolt it down too, it would vibrate the bolt and wear out the anchor's grip in the concrete?

I am thinking of going with rubber feet but not a bolt thru, I like the safety cable setup and maybe I will be setting up mine like yours, except I might want something to stop the unit from bashing INTO the wall too in an earthquate. Probably become something spiderman would be proud of..

Special55 · Mar 5, 2007

JohnZ said:
Mine is on automotive body mount cushions - much lower durometer than hockey pucks, excellent isolation. It's NOT anchored to the concrete - it's free-standing, in a corner, with two plastic-coated safety cables (with slack) attached with lag eyes through the drywall to wall studs; has never moved a millimeter in seven years.

John,

Do you remember what body mounts you used (make, model, etc.)?

Thanx,

Rich

Major Ramifications · Mar 5, 2007

JohnZ said:
Mine is on automotive body mount cushions - much lower durometer than hockey pucks, excellent isolation. It's NOT anchored to the concrete - it's free-standing, in a corner, with two plastic-coated safety cables (with slack) attached with lag eyes through the drywall to wall studs; has never moved a millimeter in seven years.

Very nice setup. It's simple, cheap, and it works well.
Also, you don't ever have to worry about the tank rusting through, because all of those stickers will hold the air in! :bounce:

MyDomain · Mar 5, 2007

Roller blade wheels?

These? http://cgi.ebay.com/VIBRATION-ISOLA...0QQihZ004QQcategoryZ14968QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

These? http://cgi.ebay.com/Front-Load-Wash...ryZ20714QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem

One of these? http://search.ebay.com/search/searc...action=compare&copagenum=1&coentrypage=search

BowtieNut · Mar 5, 2007

I just cut a 4" wide strip off the end of one of those "anti-fatigue" rubber floor mats at my work (shhhhh). It's about 1/2" or so thick. Then I cut that into 4x4" squares, and put a 4x4" square of 1/2" plywood on top of that for the compressor feet to rest on without digging into the rubber. Then I put 3/8" studs into the floor, but left the nut a little loose and loctited it so it wouldn't move. I'm sure that would have been secure enough, but after I had kids I also added another safety strap from the top of the tank to the wall (with some slack), just to be extra safe. Works good, but best of all, it was essentially free.

JohnZ · Mar 15, 2007

Special55 said:
John,

Do you remember what body mounts you used (make, model, etc.)?

Thanx,

Rich

They're from a Prowler (I was the Viper/Prowler Plant Manager at the time). :thumbup:

KingPerformance · Mar 22, 2007

The reason they tell you to bolt the compressor to the floor is because if there is a problem with sudden pressure loss (hole, compressor comes appart etc) a full tank is going to move in a hurry and could hurt anyone close to it.

Compressor isolation pads. Where to find cheap?

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