Above 1200 Sq/FT The ASYLUM - Happy 40th Birthday to Me! (Est. 2005)

shopnut · Mar 25, 2014

akdiesel – Yep, I had a little growth on that sidewalk, didn’t I

. Here’s a worm’s eye view.

Regarding the tie-down straps, I had a nice plastic case dedicated to them and used to roll them up real neatly after every use. But I must be getting a bit lazier in my old age. Now I just want to quickly toss them in something while not having them get all tangled up with each other. We’ll see how this divided bag method works for a while

Velcro works good for keeping them wrapped up. I also used those monster rubberbands that broccoli is bundled together with sometimes. I never thought to use the Velcro to also keep them from flapping in the breeze though – I’m always struggling with what to do with those loose ends.

W0rLDWaR4 - Thanks. I bet you have fun typing that login name in!

shopnut · Mar 25, 2014

“THIS IS MY BENDPAK” – MAKING THIS LIFT MINE (Part 1 of ?)…

BendPak’s latest advertising slogan for their lifts is "This is my BendPak", "There are many, but this one's mine"

So it’s time to make this lift mine. I knew this purchase was going to be a pretty good distraction to finishing up the Asylum interior, and it’s coming true with a whole slew of lift-related projects popping up.

I’ll start with a few small things just to warm up the old typing fingers.

A COUPLE OF COSMETIC UPGRADES

Some hole plugs for the column base plates – just so someone isn’t concerned about me not anchoring this lift to the floor.

Some caps for the tops of the columns – it’s not polite to have your studs hanging out in public.

SOME PROTECTION FOR THE PAINT

Protection so the caster kit won’t mar the paint on the columns. Unlike the sheets I put under the column posts, these tend to slide a bit too easily for my liking, but I don’t intend to use them much so I guess it is fine

This material is easily cut on the paper shear.

And the holes were added with a spade bit.

Okay, it's on to something a little more involved before I lose your attention

.

akdiesel · Mar 25, 2014

That might be his BendPak but he does not have a care for safety with all those sparks flying around. lol.

shopnut

Nice touches on the little things that matter. So now this is added to my To Do list.

shopnut · Mar 26, 2014

akdiesel said:
That might be his BendPak but he does not have a care for safety with all those sparks flying around. lol.

shopnut

Nice touches on the little things that matter. So now this is added to my To Do list.

Yeah, where are Bill Goldberg's safety glasses anyway?

Thanks. I didn’t mean to create some extra work for you, but this IS the Garage Journal, you know. Every time you login, it's supposed to generate 2 or 3 projects

. At least these are some really simple ones. But, you better avoid the ASYLUM build for the next couple of weeks if you already have plenty on your To Do list - there's some slightly more challenging stuff coming

Speaking of To Do lists, I’m overdue for an update on mine. Tasks are getting crossed off at a feverish rate around here

shopnut · Mar 26, 2014

“THIS IS MY BENDPAK” – MAKING THIS LIFT MINE (Part 2 of ?)…

AN AIR ACCUMULATOR BOTTLE FOR THE LOCKS (COMPRESSORLESS OPERATION)

BendPak has a great lock system on their HD-9 lifts, but is requires air to release them. No problem if that bothers you, they offer a clever little accessory to capture the air being forced out of the hydraulic cylinder upon lifting and store it in a small air bottle. This pressurized air can then be used to disengage the locks.

It looked easy enough to build on my own so I decided to save a few bucks. The very first thing I did was search for a nice air bottle. I picked these up for a song. Bimba has been a staple in the pneumatics game for decades so I figured I couldn't go wrong even with used ones. And it's not like there are any parts to wear out.

Since I'm sure volume of the tank is a key factor (too big and it won't generate enough pressure, too small and very little air will be captured before popping the safety valve), I'm glad there were two different sizes in my pair to test with.

Here are all the parts that mount underneath the power side runway. Note that I ended up using both bottles and I will explain the reason why shortly.

I mounted the air bottle bracket to existing hoops that retain the hydraulic hose so I didn't have to drill any holes in visible surfaces in the runway.

Some pipe clamps hold the bottles up in the bracket. There is about 1” of clearance to that lift cable running through that area.

A bracket was added for the inlet manifold by the lock release button. It mounted in the one spot that didn’t have something sandwiched between the rubber and the motor base plate.

The regulator/gauge and auxiliary air connections are now in place. If something goes wrong with my bottle system, I can shut off the regulator valve and hook up an air hose to either the quick disconnect or to the Schrader valve. Arrows point to the two auxiliary inputs for compressed air.

I don’t know if this was necessary, but after removing the air return line coming from the lift cylinder, I added a breather to replace the fitting.

(continued)

shopnut · Mar 27, 2014

“THIS IS MY BENDPAK” – MAKING THIS LIFT MINE (Part 3 of ?)…

AN AIR ACCUMULATOR BOTTLE FOR THE LOCKS (COMPRESSORLESS OPERATION) - continued

I’ll offer up a bit more detail on the air bottle system and some explanation on how it works.

Here are the parts all laid out so it might more sense to you. Air can enter the system from one of four points, the retracting hydraulic cylinder, two different auxiliary inputs (direct hose connection or air chuck), and a vent (or breather) if the system ever draws vacuum with the extending cylinder. Arrows show where two of the three check valves are installed. The third check valve is where the male quick-disconnect fitting is installed.

When raising the lift, the compressed air is stored in the short bottle, or if desired, in both bottles when the ball valve is opened. The long bottle on the left works somewhat as a reserve. If raising the lift to full height, I will open up the valve allowing both bottles to get charged. At full height, I close the valve to the reserve bottle and save that compressed air for (maybe weeks) later.

The gauge/regulator is mounted up by the lock button valve. I could use this to regulate the air down to 30 psi or so, but instead I have it opened full to show pressure in the bottle(s). The lock circuit is fine for up to 120 psi and the safety valves are set for that.

Here’s a closer look at the end connected to the lift cylinder. I just attached the clear hose and fitting to help visualize the system better.

Connections between the air bottles. The valve serves to isolate the reverse bottle.

Safety valve for the reserve bottle. Although this may not be entirely needed, it could protect against an overpressure situation when the bottle is isolated from the rest of the system and there is a big ambient temperature change. I had an extra valve so I installed it instead of a pipe plug.

A close-up shot of the gauge/regulator and aux air inputs. The female quick-disconnect and air chuck are there for demonstration purposes only. The clear hose in the top left would feed to lock release button.

Some final notes on the system:
- It will be typical for me to have a car stored at the highest height. If you are starting with no pressure (0 psi) because it had all leaked out, I found you can cycle the lift between the top lock and full up positions (up and down roughly 4” each time) three cycles to generate enough pressure to release the locks. This only takes a few seconds to do.
- If ascending from the ground, you will see the pressure start building very gradually until the runways are about a foot from full up. Then the pressure spikes rather quickly. I wasn’t expecting this, but it makes perfect sense now that I think about it. I like to fill the reserve bottle when I’m doing a full height lift.
- Before I added the reserve bottle, a full height lift easily over-pressurized the system and much air was lost (or wasted) when the safety valve popped open. And when the safety valve pops open, about half of the system pressure is lost instantly.
- The reserve bottle valve is easy to reach while standing by the Hydraulic power unit. I put a little decal on the runway so I knew exactly where to find it. In fact, when the decal gets about eye level, it serves as a great reminder me to open the valve and capture the maximum air possible. With the lift on the ground, my runways sit just high enough that I can still reach under to open or close the valve.

akdiesel · Mar 31, 2014

shopnut

And another great write up for a great design.
On your comment about too big and little air pressure... we use accumulators to keep a regulated hydraulic pressure on the system so the pumps don't have to cycle on and off all the time.
A screwed end cap on one of your cylinders will allow for access to put a seal and a correct sized spring to assist the air out.

JCQuick · Mar 31, 2014

those plugs for the anchor holes look familiar :shocking:

good ole skycraft
:beer:

shopnut · Mar 31, 2014

akdiesel - No such luck with my Bimba's, the end caps are stamped on :sad:

. They are really nothing more than air tanks or "non-repairable reservoirs" as they call them. They are well built, however. I probably mislead you by calling them accumulators, because they are nothing like the hydraulics one we use at work either. But thanks for your suggestion.

JCQuick - If you need a cap, plug, or grommet (or ten new projects just by walking in the door), Skycraft has you covered!

shopnut · Mar 31, 2014

“THIS IS MY BENDPAK” – MAKING THIS LIFT MINE (Part 4 of ?)…

SOME MORE PROTECTION FOR THE PAINT

For the heavy parts that might get tossed around a bit, I used some 1/4" edge trim to protect the paint. It's kind of pricy so I didn't use any more than I needed.

The wheel chocks and front stops got some little pieces at the corners.

AND SOME HANDLES FOR THE RAMPS

The ramps got similar trim on the corners. Handles were also added and I mounted them basically at the balance point so you can carry the ramp level with one handle like a briefcase. The handles will also be used to hang them in the cabinet when not in use.

These types of handles are generally sold as RV grab handles.

A little renewable magnetic sheet helps protect the paint where they rub on the runway hinges.

My ramps didn’t sit completely flat on the runways and when you drove over them, they flipped up a little bit and then crashed down with a pretty loud clunk as the tire rolled off. A little trim helped fill the gap nicely.

Wingnut65 · Mar 31, 2014

I never knew an engineer who could leave something new alone... There always has to be a way to make it better, faster, stronger... Wait, I think that was a tv show.

Your attention to detail, once again, is icing on the lift! Great ideas shopnut. Maybe Bendpak can offer the "Shopnut Acessory Pack" before too long!

shopnut · Apr 1, 2014

Wingnut65 said:
I never knew an engineer who could leave something new alone... There always has to be a way to make it better, faster, stronger... Wait, I think that was a tv show.

Your attention to detail, once again, is icing on the lift! Great ideas shopnut. Maybe Bendpak can offer the "Shopnut Acessory Pack" before too long!

Yeah, my affinity to mod brand new stuff drives Mrs. Shopnut crazy! But she's an engineer too, so I don't quite get it. If I don't give it a rest soon, I'll have $6M stuck into this place before you know it!

Thanks, but I won't hold my breath waiting on BendPak to knock on my door. I do think they could have easily made some cutouts on the sides of those ramps to serve as hand-holds, making them easier to handle. But maybe most people don't touch them once they're attached to the lift :dunno:

. If I see something that will make a product easier to use, I do something about it.

shopnut · Apr 1, 2014

THE JIB CRANE FINALLY GETS CONNECTED…

Connected with power, that is. Up until now, I have been using a temporary cord to power the electric crane hoist. When space was at a premium during the car lift assembly, it always seemed to be in the way and drove me nuts. Following that, it took a few steps up the priority list.

You have to go all the way back to Reply 500 to see where this story left off so here’s a shot to refresh your memory:

I stopped back then when I ran into a little snag requiring some rework. A front loft project, a broken heel, and some other assorted things kept me from it until now.

Here are the parts after mods were made and disassembly for painting. The new piece is that odd shaped aluminum plate in the bottom left corner.

It was perfect day for painting outside and my miter saw made a good drying rack for the plastic and aluminum parts. Not shown here are the 4’ sections of conduit.

Here it is all back together with wiring connected and showing the hoist trolley in the extreme rolling positions.

Besides the cable carrier, I added a couple extra features to the crane. First, a spotlight shining straight down on anything being lifted. When I was designing bridge cranes years ago, I remember lighting kits being a popular option because the crane itself tends to block the regular overhead lighting. Now my little jib doesn't block much light, but extra light never hurts.

The traveling spotlight has its own dedicated wall switch like the others in the shop.

While I was working on it, I also decided to add a power cord reel that simply hangs down on the swinging end of the jib beam. It might come in handy when I want a cord dropping down for something and don’t want it lying on the floor. This is a model RL Appleton unit that already had a suitable paint job, so is was just a matter of drilling 2 new holes in the top of the I-beam to mount it and running a cord to power it.

I’ll give you a few detail shots next.

(continued)

JCQuick · Apr 1, 2014

Hey shopnut I had a surprise visit froma wingnut today at work. He saw skycraft but said he didn't have time to stop. I informed him he needs a few hours for the first visit. :shocking:

Oh my step dad was an aerospace engineer all I can say is most of you are nuts. Oh wait that why its the ASYLUM. :lol_hitti

Carry on

Wingnut65 · Apr 2, 2014

Passed Skycraft twice and marked it in the GPS to find again. :bowdown:

If it is all that you two have said it is, I don't know how JC can work down the street from it and not spend all his time there. Convenience like that could get expensive! :thumbup:

shopnut, great idea on the cord reel at the end of the beam. And there is nothing like adding another light just to be able to add another switch! At this rate, it will take you an hour to power down as you leave the place! :lol:

rieferman · Apr 2, 2014

Amazing as usual shopnut!

kbuhagiar · Apr 2, 2014

shopnut said:
THE JIB CRANE FINALLY GETS CONNECTED…

The traveling spotlight has its own dedicated wall switch like the others in the shop.

You're missing a screw from that switchplate.
And the screws need to be 'clocked'. :willy_nil

Sorry, couldn't resist. :lol:

Nice work! :beer:

Rockcam · Apr 2, 2014

Shopnut:

Amazing attention to detail, as usual.

Thanks for all the explanation you provide - helpful and interesting as we all think of how to use it on our own projects.

shopnut · Apr 2, 2014

JCQuick – I mustn’t have that kind of willpower that Wingnut does. If I am anywhere near Skycraft, there’s no way to avoid stopping in. We were on our way to a wedding in Winter Park one Saturday and I pulled in. Mrs. Shopnut just looked at me and shook her head in disgust. Needless to say, she just waiting in the car and I made it a quick visit.

Your step dad sounds like a great guy!

Wingnut65 – Yup, my pocketbook stays just a bit fatter from not living/working next to Skycraft. I would probably be getting some kind of high volume discount by now if I did. Do yourself a favor and plan a couple hours of browse time on the first visit (heck I still allow for that even after 100 visits!). There’s way too many bins to explore, and the good stuff is buried on the bottom (oops, did I just give away my secret?)

Yeah, I really need a master switch for the garage for when I need a fast getaway. But one that doesn’t cut out the beer fridge!

rieferman – Thanks. Don't tell me I may have just set a standard for myself. Dang! There will be no resting around here now! At this point, I just want to finish the place before it finishes me!

kbuhagiar – I guess it’s okay to have a screw or two loose in an Asylum. But to be total missing, now that’s unacceptable!

Clocking the screws? I’ll leave that for the ones with a true disorder (that couldn't possibly be me!). Thanks for the visit.

Rockcam - Thanks and you are welcome. It's always good to hear someone finds all this interesting. I'm just documenting all the crazy stuff that happens around here, otherwise no one might believe it. Someday, I think it will be fun to read back through it.

shopnut · Apr 2, 2014

THE JIB CRANE FINALLY GETS CONNECTED…

This picture shows the hoist trolley rolled out to its extreme outer position. The cable carrier mount (black) was trimmed out to clear the tie-rod mount (yellow).

This is how I dealt with the 180 degree swivel of the crane. I got the conduit elbow centerline as close to the crane pivot centerline as possible. That way, the cords really only have to do a little twisting while the crane swings. One cord is for the constant power to the crane and cord reel. The other plugs into a switched outlet for the spotlight.

These next two pictures show how the carrier bracket was notched out to clear the wall as the crane swivels through its full range.

And this shows it tucks up nicely against the wall when not in use.

Just a side note: For those of you not familiar with these hoists, let me share something I learned by owning this one. The crane beam gets pulled around with the control pendant. It seems pulling hard like that would eventually do some damage. But all is fine. These special control cables actually have a steel cable running down the middle that gets anchored up in the hoist housing. So you can pull all you want, no wires are getting yanked loose.

Cross that one off the list!!! Of course, I noticed the gearcase on the chain hoist has developed a small leak so another task gets added to the list in place of it :sad:

.

Lotusnut · Apr 3, 2014

shopnut; Yeah said:
Shopnut I would hope when you planned the Asylum you recognized the need for an essential AC bus and how would anything rank higher on the priority list than the beer fridge to be attached to the essential AC bus?

akdiesel · Apr 3, 2014

That's the Jib crane that got me started wanting one when I saw yours.
Nice finish work.

Wingnut65 · Apr 3, 2014

Nice work on the form-fitting carrier bracket. I assume that nibbles here and there won't weaken the integrity too much.

I couldn't help but wonder what else is up your sleeve with the Jib Crane and light. I mean, you have two empty receptacles just waiting for the next bright idea! If one of the four is switched, you had to be planning something! :thumbup:

shopnut · Apr 3, 2014

Lotusnut – Unfortunately, there isn’t a single disconnect to turn off just shop power in the Asylum. There are, however, two main disconnect switches on the property, but neither are convenient if you are inside the shop. I guess they are in decent spots if there is ever an electrical fire though - the first thing I will be inclined to do is run outside. Once out of harm’s way, I can switch off the power. Our house in town is set up the same way, so I don't know if it is required by code or something.

The first is at the Service Entrance. This panel feeds the entire property (i.e. well, garden shed, Asylum, etc.)

The second is the main disconnect to the Asylum located on the outside of the building

The main distribution panel is directly on the other side of the wall inside the shop

Of course, I couldn't deal with the chicken scratch labels that were originally there so I made my own.

akdiesel – I would imagine that crane has become one of those “what did I ever do without it” type tools for you too. Thanks.

Wingnut65 – I think the mutilated bracket should be fine. The cable carrier really doesn’t require much in the way of support, it’s just plastic.

Nope, nothing else up my sleeve (as far as the crane is concerned

). That quad outlet up there was installed before the crane cable carrier idea was even conceived and it could stand to be about 3” inches higher. This picture probably shows it best (disregard the red arrow), but the bottom 2 outlets get blocked by the carrier as it sweeps. Possibly one of those flat style plugs could squeeze in there if a future need popped up.

But it seems to work satisfactorily, so I say leave well enough alone. And that’s something that doesn’t come out of my mouth very often!

.

shopnut · Apr 7, 2014

TEST FITTING THE AVALANCHE UNDER THE LIFT…

I was bringing my monthly supplies out to the ASYLUM for the first time since the lift was put together, so it was time for a test fit of the truck underneath. I ran out of time to play musical chairs with the cars, so lifting the Avy will have to wait until some other time.

A shot from the nose-bleed seats.

Here is the clearance to the highest point, the luggage rack crossbar. I think there is about 1” extra lift to be had by adjusting the lock ladders up, but it seems 2.5” is more than adequate for now.

I had about 3.5” from columns to my mirrors on both sides. If driving this truck under here was going to be more of a common occurrence, I would be wishing for my old Avalanche power folding mirrors back about right now.

Room to swing the apartment door open in front.

And open the tailgate in the rear (but not much else

).

This little trial was perfect timing too, because I pulled the truck inside for a couple hours just as a nasty thunderstorm blew over. Mother Nature doesn’t always win

.

Wingnut65 · Apr 7, 2014

And that is exactly how it was planned and it fits perfectly, says the Engineer! :thumbup:

shopnut · Apr 9, 2014

Wingnut65 said:
And that is exactly how it was planned and it fits perfectly, says the Engineer!

I wish I could claim that

.

Although I checked the dimensions on my old truck vs. the published HD-9 specs many years ago, I failed to check the new truck's dims vs. the new style BendPaks. As I was putting it together, I discovered some of the places they had shrunk the HD-9 and it got me a bit concerned.

Every now and then, I get lucky.

akdiesel · Apr 9, 2014

shopnut

Wow close but just right. They sure did change things out. I have about 4-6 inches of head room for my 82 3/4 4 wheel drive GMC stock ride height. I cant imagine your Avalanche being any higher than that truck is. I am not sure of the exact height of the 82 though.

shopnut · Apr 9, 2014

Hey akdiesel. Yeah close for sure, but I guess an inch is as good as a mile.

The official specs on the truck state 76.6" tall for the LT model, but the Z-71 offroad package may have it sitting just a tad higher. BendPak states a max lift height of 86.5 but then, as you know, is must be dropped to sit on the last lock position (I think around 82" height clearance). It's maybe a little closer than I was expecting, but I don't plan on doing any lift mods to the truck, so no problem.

It just goes to show you - you can research the numbers all you want, but sometimes you will never know until you try it with the actual parts.

shopnut · Apr 9, 2014

THE PRESSURE IS ON…

I got a call from a buddy the other day about a good deal on a big air compressor. His neighbor was moving and he immediately thought to call me to see if I was in the market. I asked him what he knew about it and before long, people were lined up to help load it, should it be purchased. A couple days later, it was in my possession and I was left with the task to figure out where to put the big old thing.

I always knew that someday, I would want a large air compressor to handle primarily my sand blasting chores and whatever else came along. My original plan (going back 8 years) was to locate it outside in a small shed and that was honestly my last thought on the subject. Add to that the fact that my 26 gallon unit fits nicely under one of my windows and was doing fine for the needs I have right now, and the whole compressor topic was buried deep, deep in the back of my mind.

Fast forward to present day. I've now seen what this environment can do to steel parts in a short time outside, so I decided to install the compressor inside somewhere. But when I looked around, wall space was at a premium and the original plan did not include a compressor inside. I’ll admit the compressor deal wasn’t all that great (by my standards), but what is really the best thing about it all was the timing. You see, I was very close to finishing this wall off by mounting those yellow cabinets and a few other things. But as it turns out, it’s really the ONLY spot left to place the compressor without setting it in the middle of the room. The compressor will take the place of the yellow cabinets.

You all have probably figured out that I really enjoy designing things, but this is one time I totally overlooked something that needed a little planning. But there’s still time. I now am rethinking this area and have come up with a pretty slick plan to incorporate this new compressor and a number of other related items. It's not a bad spot because the shop air loop is runs right above it and it will be easy to route a 220V line over there.

So on to the compressor. It’s an older Campbell Hausfeld VT6195 and I really don't think it was used much at all. It’s a 60 gallon, 6hp unit with twin piston pump and it's nice to see "Made in the USA" plastered all over it.

Here it is getting drained (I had just lifted it off the truck so I figure why not). There was a bit more water in there then I care to think about so hopefully the tank will hang in there for a while yet.

It will be a month or two before I get it installed and fired up so I thought I would dry it out real go so it didn't sit there and rust inside even more while waiting. There was a steady flow of air blowing out the bottom port with the drain petcock removed.

So stay tuned if you want to see exactly how I arrange this area. If all goes well, it will be a bit unorthodox (as always in the ASYLUM)

.

I DON’T NEED ANOTHER SHOP CRANE…

I guess this guy heard I had a crane in here and wanted to come check it out. I was busily working on something the other day and I turn around and see this guy staring me in the face. They can walk up so slow and quietly, you have no idea they are there. I found it interesting how he would come right up to the concrete, but would not step on it no matter how much I coaxed him.

I think he got the wrong idea what shop cranes are favored around here.

But it was a nice break to say hi to an old friend. I wonder where his mate is though - usually they come in pairs.

akdiesel · Apr 10, 2014

shopnut

I too need a larger air compressor and have been tossing the idea around between verticle or horizontal type. I also have to run a 220 line 40' to the other corner of the shop. A doable job but not one I really want to do.
So I thought about taking the pumpo off the tank and mounting it closer to the breaker box. This will cover two purposes. One - to reduce labor and cost of cable runs, and two - to save room on the floor by mounting it up high and possibly enlcosed for noise.
With saying this could you mount it in your overhead storage out front? It may not be climate controled but like I was saying you could mount the pump there and put the tank inside, making it easier and lighter to mount.

shopnut · Apr 10, 2014

akdiesel said:
shopnut

I too need a larger air compressor and have been tossing the idea around between verticle or horizontal type. I also have to run a 220 line 40' to the other corner of the shop. A doable job but not one I really want to do.
So I thought about taking the pumpo off the tank and mounting it closer to the breaker box. This will cover two purposes. One - to reduce labor and cost of cable runs, and two - to save room on the floor by mounting it up high and possibly enlcosed for noise.
With saying this could you mount it in your overhead storage out front? It may not be climate controled but like I was saying you could mount the pump there and put the tank inside, making it easier and lighter to mount.

Luckily, the current draw isn't real high on these larger "homeowner" compressors, especially since they are running at 220V, so you don't need monster wire. But sometimes routing any size wire is a hassle. Mine states about 10 amps and I intend to route a 10/2 M/C cable over there since I have about 200 feet left on the roll from the last job.

I've always liked the idea of splitting up the pump and tank, and when my 20G/2hp compressor's tank sprung a leak, I gave some serious thought to using a bunch of SCUBA tanks as the "receiver" and locating one wherever it would fit around my shop air loop. It seems a quicker reaction could be realized with smaller tanks located closer to the outlet points. And used SCUBA tanks are pretty plentiful in my area (and available in aluminum

)

But I never considered locating the pump up there in one of the front lofts. The lumber loft is just on the other side of where I'm planning to locate the big compressor. And I already have an air line running out to it for the outside reel. I like the idea as it would do a great job of isolating the noise and still keep the system within reasonable reach for maintenance. I would have a tough time chopping up the big one I just bought to do this, but you just gave me a great idea for putting that old 2hp system to good use. I still want a small system with maybe a 10G tank that pumps up pressure fast and can be used quickly for small jobs without firing up and waiting on the big guy. Opening up pneumatic actuated windows and airing up tires comes to mind.

Just when I thought I had it figured out - change of plans! Thanks man!

Wingnut65 · Apr 10, 2014

You are setting new standards in the Asylum with adding a new crane just after getting a lift!

mdbeck1 · Apr 10, 2014

shopnut said:
...
I still want a small system with maybe a 10G tank that pumps up pressure fast and can be used quickly for small jobs without firing up and waiting on the big guy. Opening up pneumatic actuated windows and airing up tires comes to mind.

Just when I thought I had it figured out - change of plans! Thanks man!

When I installed my 80 gallon compressor I put an air cutoff valve on the side of the tank. When I finish for the night I turn the power off on the compressor and flip the cutoff valve. The compressor is tight enough that I can leave it this way for several weeks and still have air pressure when I need it.

That's what I do but I don't have near as much fancy stuff as you do. I would expect you to have some kind of electrical cutoff that also cuts off the air flow at the tank.

My 10 year old HF 2 gallon pancake compressor gets used when I need air somewhere off of the property. ...and it will run the framing nailer, roofing nailer, or air wrench just fine.

BlackSheepSpeedShop · Apr 11, 2014

I love following your thread and dream of having your engineering talent. I hope you do something amazing with a auto drain, line plumbing and sound suppression for your new compressor. Best of luck,

shopnut · Apr 11, 2014

Wingnut65 - I would say Mother Nature had more to do with the appearance of the last crane than I did

. But since he likes stopping by, I wonder if I could harness his power for lifting things, like this...

mdbeck1 - A cutoff valve is a great idea, especially for an air line system with lots of joints and potential leak points. Maybe I will find that a small auxiliary system isn't even needed if the pressure can be retained in the big tank for weeks.

The same guy that gave me the heads-up on the 60G compressor wants my old 26G unit and has a pancake compressor to give me in trade. So I guess I will have a mobile alterative just like you when all the dust settles. I may end up storing that one down in the garden shed for airing up tractor tires though - I'm tired of carrying the little 5 gallon portable tank up to get refilled.

Do you have a spycam in my shop? :headscrat

Let's just say the compressor installation involves a 7-day timer and at least one solenoid valve

BlackSheepSpeedShop – Thanks for the kind words. Being an engineer can be a curse sometimes though. I always feel obligated to change/improve stuff when I buy it. Sometimes it would be nice not wasting time modding them and just use the darn things as is.

I doubt I will have anything that will “WOW” anyone, compared to some of the nice air systems other members have. In fact, I’ve probably violated some of the proven methods with what’s installed already. But it seems to work for me.

I do have a HF auto drain kit that has been sitting on the shelf for a couple years now waiting to be installed – I’m actually going to install it this time, I promise! Of course those electronically timed drains look kind of intriguing too. Whatever I do, I need to be religious about keeping that tank dry if I’m going to get some extended life out of it.

I also plan to enclose the compressor, and if the enclosure ends up being too much of an echo chamber, I may have to consult Wingnut65 on some of the sound deadening material he used around his A/V center.

Vernmotor · Apr 11, 2014

You may want to take a look at my compressor shed/enclosure. I have a shop in my basement .so I needed it to be quit.I have air lines run up to the garage also .
http://s241.photobucket.com/user/vernmotor/library/compressor shed?sort=3&page=1

mdbeck1 · Apr 11, 2014

shopnut said:
mdbeck1 ...

Do you have a spycam in my shop? Let's just say the compressor installation involves a 7-day timer and at least one solenoid valve

No spycam.... You MUST understand that I'm an engineer as well. ...but I grew up in the salvage yards and back shops in the 60's and 70's. You've got some pretty cool ideas and one day I'll get a chance to add something to your thread that will really help.

...and having to wait on my compressor to build up pressure is just a pain. I'll throw one more valve and have pressure instantly.

shopnut said:
BlackSheepSpeedShop ...

I do have a HF auto drain kit that has been sitting on the shelf for a couple years now waiting to be installed – I’m actually going to install it this time, I promise! Of course those electronically timed drains look kind of intriguing too. Whatever I do, I need to be religious about keeping that tank dry if I’m going to get some extended life out of it.

Good luck with the HF auto drain. I put one on my compressor and it introduced a leak at the bottom of the tank. So much for having air when I first walked into the shop. ...and it also kept blowing off of the line above the switch. That made life REAL interesting.

Needless to say I pulled it and it's hanging on the door to the compressor cabinet. I'll be watching what you do to make it work.

shopnut said:
I also plan to enclose the compressor, and if the enclosure ends up being too much of an echo chamber, I may have to consult Wingnut65 on some of the sound deadening material he used around his A/V center.

I enclosed mine. The garage is attached and the compressor room/closet shares a wall with the bathroom in the house. With the 5/8 firecode sheetrock and a layer of insulation on the walls I can hear it in the house but the automatic dishwasher (not SWMBFAO) is louder than the compressor. Then I put a door on the compressor cabinet in the garage that holds a furnace filter at the bottom. Above the compressor I installed the blower motor to the old CH&A unit. The intake for the CH&A unit has another furnace filter. When the ambient temperature is up I turn on the blower motor and it cools the compressor down. It also works good when I smoke electrical boards on the workbench.

BlackSheepSpeedShop · Apr 12, 2014

I have a drain with a timer and have enclosed my compressor and used sound deadening Sheetrock on the inside. It really helps so much. I am in the slow process of plumbing it using a rapid air system. Keep up the great work, your a inspiration.

shopnut · Apr 14, 2014

Vernmotor – WOW, that is one finely designed cabinet, complete with temp readout! Thanks for sharing. I was wondering what to do about cooling air and didn’t think about a forced air system. I even have a brand new Broan bathroom exhaust fan that is taking up space on the shelf (another clearance deal I just couldn’t pass up

). I think it has a fairly high cfm rating too (along with a bonus light). I really like that labyrinth you created to let the air flow through while keeping the sound in. Very nice job indeed.

It remains to be seen how far I need to go with the sound deadening. Initial impressions are that the new compressor is pretty quiet. But it’s all relative, I guess. What almost seems pleasant now, compared to my existing direct drive compressor, may end up still being the noisiest tool in the shop and could become a big nuisance every time it kicks in.

mdbeck1 – I scan for spycams and bugs weekly, so I knew it couldn’t be that

. I suppose most engineers think alike – kind of scary in a way. I bet my parents where happy that we didn’t live too close to a salvage yard – who knows what I would have been dragging home every other day

.

I’m guessing this is the HF drain you tried.

With that rave review (NOT!), I may forget that idea and just recycle whatever parts I can for something else. I bought it like 3 years ago, so no returns. Maybe that slow leak is HF’s backup plan - with a constant leak down there, there should never be any water build-up!

I originally planned to locate the compressor under the stairs (in fact, that’s even where the dedicated outlet still is), but I ended up finding better uses for that space. I’m glad too, because sound deadening would be much more critical if the compressor was located on a wall adjacent to the apartment. With a CH&A blower circulating air through there, I would certainly say that you have a little extra capacity for those smoked electronics. Funny!

BlackSheepSpeedShop – Thanks. I would imagine any sheetrock has some sound-deadening characteristics, but are some designed specifically for this purpose? If so, can it be found at places like Lowes or Home Depot? That might be all my compressor needs because it seemed pretty quiet, even while running out in the middle of the shop floor.

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