Craftsman Drill Press

FrankLee · Oct 21, 2014

Dp#6, dp#7, dp#8, dp#9

09-28-2014

I finished the power hacksaw stand today. I still want to replace the wooden motor mount with short pieces of B-Line/Unistrut.

10-06-2014

I just brought this one home last night; dp#6. It's an Atlas Craftsman model 101.03581... a little earlier and different than what I'm used to. It's very rough and if I refurb this, it will be my biggest challenge yet. The head, table and base are all stuck to the column. Some PO repainted over all the knobs, handles, label plates and column. It's also missing just a few pieces; the quill lock clamp handle, the spindle guard and maybe the table lock pin. On the plus side, it does have the Slow-Speed pulley, which is why I bought it.

14279.6114

10-12-2014

Dp#6 disassembled. Most parts cleaned and a couple parts primed.

10-12-2014

I brought home dp#7 today... model 113.24501. The spindle is bent and it's a little dirty, but the original paint is amazing! It won't take much to clean this one and fix or replace the spindle. The table is very nice with only two tiny oops.

[

10-19-2014

The column, base and table on dp#7 are cleaned. What a difference!

14295.6429

10-23-2014

Picked up dp#8 today... model 103.24500 with the multi-speed/slow-speed pulley.

142297.6485

10-25-2014

dp#7 is cleaned and reassembled. The quill and spindle from dp#8 were installed to replace the bent spindle in dp#7. The paint is all original. I still need to install the chuck and a motor.

10-26-2014

dp#6 is reassembled and runs great! I still need to install the chuck on this one too.

10-28-2014

The motor from dp#8 will be used on dp#7. It's a nice one, but very filthy. The pulley needed a little persuasion to be removed. The insulation on just one wire to the capacitor is brittle and cracked, so that will be replaced.

11-2-2014

Motor is cleaned, repaired and installed on dp#7. It runs great!

The new motor-mount plate was installed on the power hacksaw:

11-4-2014

Sold dp#6.

11-7-2014

I scored a Craftsman Multi-Speed pulley today for $80! It came with this Craftsman 100 dp#9 attached, model 103.23131, but ugh... it's very dirty and rusty.

11-9-2014

dp#9 torn down, innards cleaned, lubed and reassembled with a nicer table. It's not a looker, but it runs nicely... smooth and quiet!

14315.6757

11-15-2014

I finally sold the band saw today with no motor.

I also have dp#8 reassembled and both dp#8 and dp#9 are now for sale on craigslist.

FrankLee · Oct 21, 2014

DP V-belt Replacement, 6" Thickness Planer, Table Saw

11/16/2014

About V-belt replacements on these Craftsman drill presses…

My preferred v-belt replacement is Autozone’s Duralast #17455. This is a cogged belt, 45.5” long, and fits nicely on these drill presses.

11/17/2014

I picked up another new old Craftsman project today from craigslist... 6" thickness planer model 103.23700. Junky wooden stand and motor not pictured.

Here is the patent for this planer.

The first issue with the planer I discovered was from this picture:

The pulley set-screw at 1:30 o'clock is not aligned with the flat on the shaft at 8:00 o'clock. I have seen this countless times on these old machines with key-less pulleys/arbors... especially motors. The loose set-screws gouge the shafts which makes it difficult to remove the pulleys. In most cases, a puller is needed. In this case, the pulley was half-way off the shaft with the set-screw completely off the shaft, so it did no damage. It took just a little effort by hand to remove the pulley the rest of the way.

Based on the multiple set-screw indentations, it looks like that pulley has been on and off a couple times.

14325.6939

11/22/2014

Planer tear-down was rather easy, straightforward, and uneventful.

Here it is reassembled... cleaned and lubed with new bearings. The bearings are the same part number as the drill press quill bearings. I had a new spare set on hand, so in they went. The knives are in very good shape, so no changes there. The table sanded nicely, but there's a small area of pitting on the front edge of the in-feed side.

Now I need to find a stand.

14328.7002

11/29/2014

I sold dp#8 and decided to part-out dp#9.

12/01/2014

For $25, I picked-up an old Darra-James Tool Kraft table saw with a generic 1/2hp, 1725 rpm motor that was attached to a rather decent Craftsman power tool bench, 99A02134K, roughly 16" x 30", pre-1955. The planer will sit nicely on top of it.

12/04/2014

Like I said above, I'm parting-out dp#9, but I'm keeping the base, column, and table and using those as a stand for my belt/disk sander. The nice thing is that the table has the tilt feature. I can mount another small machine underneath and flip it around as needed.
I had the sander on the grinder stand so now I can flip that stand.

14338.7179

12/08/2014

I sold the grinder pedestal stand on Saturday. I also got the power tool bench cleaned-up on Sunday ready for some b-line strut installation for the planer.

14344.7261

12/15/2014

I really, REALLY did not need another big project, but this table saw had been sitting on craigslist for a while. Yesterday, I had to go take a look. It's a Craftsman "80", 8-inch, model 103.22160 complete with fence, miter guide, and a nice Craftsman power tool bench. It also came with the optional Incandescent Tool Light, Powr-Panl, Wheel Set, two table extensions, and an 8" Sanding Wheel disc.

The Powr Panl works fine and motor works, just needs bearings lubed and a new cord. The work light will need quite a bit of work too.

FrankLee · Oct 21, 2014

Motors, DP#10, DP#11, Belt/Disk Sander, Table Saw, DP Part-Out

12/17/2014

Yep... the dreaded fubar tilt gear on the table saw. If I can't come up with a replacement gear, I need to consider parting out what I can and scrapping the rest.

14350.7344

12/21/2014

I finally had the motivation to work on dp#7. I tweaked the chuck to minimize run-out and installed a new permanent switch and new cord on the motor.

I also started some tear-down on the table saw and will likely part-out what I can.

14356.7534

12/26/2014

How did I accumulate so many extra motors? Half are 1725 rpm, half are 3450. Six are Craftsman. A mix of 1/2 hp and 3/4 hp.

14358.7604
15008.7762
15016.7853

1/17/2015

This morning, I took the innards from this good motor with a very rusty case...

and transplanted them into this bad motor with a very nice case...

and put this drill press back to work for a friend.

Both motors are model 115.6962. I have lots of spare motor parts available if someone needs something.

15018.7884
15019.7899
15021.8293

1/24/2015

The planer is mounted on the stand and runs great!

15025.8346

1/25/2015

I brought home dp#10 today... model 103.24511. Thanks Steve!

1/29/2015

Today's craigslist acquisition... a Craftsman 103.22161 table saw. Included were the power tool bench, two table extensions, fence, miter guide, and Powr-Pak. FREE! They just wanted it gone and wouldn't even take $20. They also included a heavy duty appliance dolly.

15030.8415

1/31/2015

Today's estate sale finds...
a Craftsman 100 dp#11, 103.23140,
a Craftsman belt/disk sander, 103.22500,
a very nice goose-neck work light, and
a boat-load of other bits and pieces.

15033.8487

2/7/2015

I tore down the belt sander this morning. By the looks of the drive drum, I was not the first one to attempt disassembly which made it moderately more difficult. I already bought new spring clips and woodruff keys. Monday, I'll order new bearings for the pulley drum, which, by the way, are the same bearing specs for the drill press quill and the planer shaft. I'll need to check for bearings on the idler drum. They are something like 39mm wide, 30mm OD, 5/8" ID.

2/8/2015

I started disassembling the 103.22161 table saw for part-out. I'll keep the bench and Powr-Pak for the belt sander.

15039.8633

FrankLee · Oct 21, 2014

The King-Seeley Craftsman 100 15" drill press replaced the Atlas Craftsman Industrial Type 15" drill press sometime between 1944 and 1948.

Craftsman Power Tool catalogs were not produced between 1944 and 1947, but the 1948 and 1949 catalogs show a Craftsman 100 Heavy Duty 15" model with the three-spoke hub, and a Craftsman 100 standard duty 13½" with a two-spoke handle. Both versions of the 100 had ball bearing quills.

zeet · Dec 18, 2014

I'm stealing that Chuck-Key idea of yours, FrankLee :^)

Shimbo · Feb 12, 2015

When you re-assembled DP # 6 (101.03581), how did the return spring and cover fit into place? I have recently purchased a replacement of the same part for the same drill that I have, and it almost feels like I need to wire wheel the inside of the head casting to allow a fraction more space to slide the spring cover into place.

FrankLee · Feb 12, 2015

Parts Swapping, DP Bearing Replacement

2/12/2015:

Shimbo said:
When you re-assembled DP#6 (101.03581), how did the return spring and cover fit into place? I have recently purchased a replacement of the same part for the same drill that I have, and it almost feels like I need to wire wheel the inside of the head casting to allow a fraction more space to slide the spring cover into place.

Out of all the Craftsman machines I've worked on, that Atlas was the worst, by far.

I don't recall any specific problem with reinstalling the spring and cover. That was probably the easiest part of reassembly. I did have very similar problems as yours with the head-frame lock and the table lock. I had some paint over-spray that I had to clean out, and I had to sand the lock cylinders so the locks would move freely in the holes.

Removing the column from the base was also a huge pita. It took a while, but a bfh did the job getting it off and also reinstalling. The spindle pulley was difficult to remove. The ends of both motor-mount rods were mushroomed and had to be unbolted from the plate and pushed through from the back. It was a mess!

I guess I don't really have an answer except make sure it's very clean. I might start by wire-wheeling the portion of the cover that fits into the head frame. Also, measure and make sure it's round. If you have the old one, measure them both with a micrometer or digital calipers and go from there. IIRC, there are two pins that have to line up with slots on the cover. Make sure the slots are the correct size to accept the pins.

15043.8816

2/14/2015:

New bearings arrived the other day from Accurate Bearing; part number 6202 LL with 5/8" special bore. These bearings are very common among several different vintage Craftsman machines, so I ordered six. This morning, I used two of them during the reassembly of the belt/disc sander. I also started cleaning the stand. I'll have to make a trip to Harbor Freight for a 6" x 48" sanding belt.

15054.9184

nine4gmc · Feb 12, 2015

For only 5 pages, this thread is EPIC!

Outlawmws · Feb 20, 2015

It's already a bench top, you are not going to get a whole lot smaller than that... (And have it be very useful)

nine4gmc · Feb 20, 2015

Outlawmws said:
It's already a bench top, you are not going to get a whole lot smaller than that... (And have it be very useful)

And certainly will not be close to the quality OR price. I'd have to say stick with what you got or end up disappointed.

WallynSC · Feb 20, 2015

Frank you are The Man

edcab · Feb 24, 2015

This thread is extremely helpful in restoring a craftsman 103.23140 drill press I picked up.
I am trying to find the overall length of the feed handles ? as mine didn't have any , thanks for the help .

FrankLee · Feb 24, 2015

edcab said:
This thread is extremely helpful in restoring a craftsman 103.23140 drill press I picked up.
I am trying to find the overall length of the feed handles ? as mine didn't have any , thanks for the help .

Welcome and thanks. I'm glad you can use the info.

Which feed handles do you need? Threaded 1/2-13 or 3/8-16?

edcab · Feb 24, 2015

for the 3/8-16 feed handle

Outlawmws · Feb 25, 2015

About 7 to 7-1/2" including the round knob. (On my Mod 100)

FrankLee · Feb 25, 2015

Feed Handle Rod Dimensions

edcab said:
I am trying to find the overall length of the feed handles ?

Outlawmws said:
About 7 to 7-1/2" including the round knob. (On my Mod 100)

Hmmm. Thanks... that's interesting. I'll have to check my other 100. That's very different from the one I measured below. I was never aware of any length differences.

On one of my machines, the feed handle rod is 1/2" diameter by 4-7/8" long.

The hub end is turned down for 3/8-16 threads for 5/8" long.

The knob end is turned down to 5/16" for 1-1/4" long. The 5/16-18 threads are 3/4" long.

The overall length with the knob installed is 5-7/8".

Tip: These feed handle rods clean up nicely when the 5/16" end is chucked in the DP and run with some medium to fine grit sandpaper.

15056.9432

Outlawmws · Feb 25, 2015

We are talking about the quill feed handles, right? :wtf:

FrankLee · Feb 25, 2015

Outlawmws said:
We are talking about the quill feed handles, right?

Yes, part #27618.

<MARQUEE > :bowdown:

</MARQUEE>

scooternut · Feb 26, 2015

edcab said:
This thread is extremely helpful in restoring a craftsman 103.23140 drill press I picked up.
I am trying to find the overall length of the feed handles ? as mine didn't have any , thanks for the help .

Just in case, and also for reference in this impressive thread, my straight handle measures 11 inches long and .427 diameter. I'm no machinist, but using good old Brownie mic. His model number is close to mine. I'm 103.23620
View media item 48415

FrankLee · Mar 2, 2015

I bought dp#12 today... something a little different. It's a model 113.24540, the next generation of Emerson's from either 1968 or '69. Many of the parts are recognizable and a carry-over from the King-Seeley era. This DP is missing the belt cover and will likely be a part-out; much of it anyway.

I started tearing it down when I got it home. So far, the only parts not compatable with the previous generation are the head frame, motor mount, quill, spindle, and feed stop rod. I rather like the flat table and will use it somewhere.

3/9/2015:

Wow! As of this morning, there were 10024 views of this thread! Thanks to all who visited!

bubinga · Mar 20, 2015

FrankLee said:
Next, this drill press has a chipped feed handle, so I experimented with a stubby screwdriver handle as a replacement. Two more to go.

craftsman screwdriver handel no less, how cool is that?

Trey T · Mar 20, 2015

With the third pulley, what's the lowest speed output to the quill?

FrankLee · Mar 20, 2015

Catalog	Drills to the center of circle	Depth of throat
1948	15"	7-3/4"
1949	15"	7-3/4"
1950	15"	7-3/4"
1951	15"	7-1/2"
1952	15"	7-1/2"
1953	15"	7-1/2"
1954	15"	7-1/2"
1955	15"	7-1/2"
1956	15-1/2"	7-3/4"
1957	15-1/2"	7-3/4"

Trey T said:
With the third pulley, what's the lowest speed output to the quill?

230 RPMs.

CNGsaves · Mar 20, 2015

Epic Thread indeed . . . . an instant GJ classic !! :thumbup:

Thanks for sharing awesome Craftsman refurb information.

Frank Lee . . . you are indeed AWESOME !! :bowdown:

. .

FrankLee · Mar 20, 2015

CNGsaves said:
Epic Thread indeed . . . . an instant GJ classic !!

Thanks for sharing awesome Craftsman refurb information.

Frank Lee . . . you are indeed AWESOME !! . .

Well, not really, but thanks.

Trey T · Mar 20, 2015

FrankLee: 230rpm is great for metal drilling to prolong the life of your high quality drill bits. I guess that's why the 3rd pulley is so valuable for these popular drill press.

bubinga · Mar 24, 2015

Frank, do you have a quill lock lever for a 150.
There is a guy on You tube needs one.
I told him to check with you.
The guys on my facebook page liked your screwdriver quill handle knobs.

bubinga · Mar 24, 2015

Question, On my Pulley bearings, the upper one(closest to the pulley) I was able to lift about 3/8" just pulling on it. Then I had to use a puller.
It DID NOT look like the inner race was spinning.
But I am concerned that it was a little loose. (I already did order "sealed" bearings. )
Do you think I could put some center punch marks in the shaft to raise the metal a little, or perhaps use a bit of bearing mount from locktite.

I have the pulley/shaft in the freezer for about an hour, and both bearings just fell on.
(The old bearings, don't have the new ones yet)
I was just trying it.
If I use bearing mount can I use it on a cold shaft, or does it need to be warm, and just use my arbor press.
Or do you like the center punch Idea better.
Like I said, It did NOT look like the inner race was spinning.

FrankLee · Mar 24, 2015

bubinga said:
Frank, do you have a quill lock lever for a 150.

Nope. I just sold one about a month ago.

bubinga said:
Question, On my Pulley bearings, the upper one(closest to the pulley) I was able to lift about 3/8" just pulling on it. Then I had to use a puller.
It DID NOT look like the inner race was spinning.
But I am concerned that it was a little loose. (I already did order "sealed" bearings. )
Do you think I could put some center punch marks in the shaft to raise the metal a little, or perhaps use a bit of bearing mount from locktite.

I have the pulley/shaft in the freezer for about an hour, and both bearings just fell on.
(The old bearings, don't have the new ones yet)
I was just trying it.
If I use bearing mount can I use it on a cold shaft, or does it need to be warm, and just use my arbor press.
Or do you like the center punch Idea better.
Like I said, It did NOT look like the inner race was spinning.

I have no experience with Loctite 620 bearing mount so I won't comment on using it.

I've never tried that punch technique either, but can't imagine how you'd reach the spot for the upper bearing to hit it square. I suppose you could drill a few small holes through one of the pulley steps.

If you don't see any wear on the shaft, I recommend to do nothing. Belt tension should prevent the races from spinning... especially with new bearings.

"You ain't gonna get nothing for it, you should take the $200.00 and run."
- bubinka, 9/9/2014

" told you you should have took the $200.00..........lol
you guys always think your gonna get big bucks for stuff.
I am an e bay troll"
- bubinka, 9/14/2014

bubinga · Mar 24, 2015

FrankLee said:
If you don't see any wear on the shaft, I recommend to do nothing. Belt tension should prevent the races from spinning... especially with new bearings.

Sounds good to me. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Yeah, I was looking at it better, and I thought the same thing, wouldn't be able to get in there near the pulley.
No, I don't see any wear marks, on either the inner race or the shaft indicating it was spinning.
Thanks.

Cable_Hogue · Apr 4, 2015

I can't keep up with you Frank, but I'm trying.

I got #4 today for 75 bucks. It has a table lift. Model 100 with tall column.

I saw your pic of the lift gear box. Did you pull yours apart and replace bearings?
Mine the grease was so hard it wouldn't turn. Got it free, but was thinking about rebuilding it. Thoughts?

torqueman2002 · Apr 4, 2015

Nice work FrankLee! But, that is the norm for you! :beer:

bubinga · Apr 4, 2015

Had a little gap between the head casting and the quill hub Frank helped me with,
the gap wasn't hurting anything, but started to bug me.
Ace hardware had these machine shims, but the OD was a little too big.
and one shim was not thick enough, and two was too thick, made the quill drag.
Found some kind of rubber gasket, for plumbing I think in a junk box, and it fits perfect.
Don't know why stupid little stuff like that bugs me............LOL :dunno:

bubinga · Apr 4, 2015

FrankLee said:
My table counterweight:

2716

Frank, did you do the machining on the counterweight parts?
if so, those look really good.

FrankLee · Apr 5, 2015

Cable_Hogue said:
I can't keep up with you Frank, but I'm trying.
I got #4 today for 75 bucks. It has a table lift. Model 100 with tall column.

I saw your pic of the lift gear box. Did you pull yours apart and replace bearings?
Mine the grease was so hard it wouldn't turn. Got it free, but was thinking about rebuilding it. Thoughts?

No, I didn't replace the bearing. IIRC, there is only one bearing in these units, a thrust bearing.

I've seen slightly different configurations and installations of these. Mine is installed where the table sits between the two lift components. The gear box is above the table and is locked on the column. The table is resting on the lower component and is normally unlocked and free-floating. The bearing is on top of the gear box and carries the weight of the table below. I'm still not sure if this is the proper installation, but it seems to work fine for me.

When I bought the machine, I believe the lift was installed incorrectly and the bearing was doing nothing.

Here are a couple pictures of dp#1. First, as I bought it, then how it's currently set-up.

torqueman2002 said:
Nice work FrankLee! But, that is the norm for you!

Thanks very much, TM!

bubinga said:
Found some kind of rubber gasket, for plumbing I think in a junk box, and it fits perfect.
Don't know why stupid little stuff like that bugs me............LOL

Harmless OCD. LOL!

bubinga said:
Frank, did you do the machining on the counterweight parts?
if so, those look really good.

No. I wish I had the skills to do that kind of work. I traded a bunch of drill press and other parts for that work.

FrankLee · Apr 6, 2015

Another bearing option for worn pulley shafts

Cjmac said:
Craftsman king seeley. 10323141 with craftsman motor 115.6962.. purchased from a vehicle service station about 1 month ago. $100. though it was operational .. it was ugly as sin.. when turned on it was surprisingly quiet while under no load.. one attempt at drilling steel plate .. the unit chattered loud noises and locked up!! This DP suffered from what you described as quill stop/ bearing screw failure.. upon inspection I discovered the upper bearing of the spindle had spun hard groove in pulley... 1mm deep!! <——Ouch! Shaft was no longer capable of holding upper bearing... after deep thinking .. I designed a very simple solution to these spun pulley shafts... not sure how to upload pics yet.. but soon as I figure it out.. I will upload the images

Cjmac said:
I replaced the original style upper bearing with a 25mm bearing insert..the bearing insert has a much wider inner race (its 27mm wide.. original bearing is 15mm wide) and it locks to the pulley shaft with set screws... then fabricated a new spacer bushing from the old used bearing inner race .the new spacer had to be 14mm. Old bearing race was 15mm,. So I only had to grind off 1mm for a perfect fit. then put on new lower bearing and clip.. bearings are tight with no movement vertically on the shaft .. and the new upper bearing being held by the shaft has no adverse movement side to side or up and down.. though I only needed 1 insert bearing.. this approach could be used for both bearings if shaft is worn in both spots

FrankLee said:
That is excellent solution to save a badly worn spindle pulley! Thanks for sharing! Who is the manufacturer and what is the part number of that new upper bearing?

Cjmac said:
Frank I sourced these bearings from VXB.com.. the part # is SB205-25 mm bore. The specs of the bearing are 27mm wide inner race.. 15 mm wide bearing and upper race..52 mm outside bearing diameter .. with a 25 mm bore.. I actually measured the bore to be 24.7 mm.. it is designed to fit a 25mm shaft.. it was a snug tight fit sliddding on the pulley .. I’ve seen many cheap bearings in my life.. though I’m not that familiar with VBX they listed the specs of the bearing and had it in stock.. I paid about $10 delivered.. others who are selling this spec bearing their prices were upwards of $40-60 before delivery.. I’m very happy with the bearing that arrived ..it is machined well.. solid and heavy with no adverse movements noted before installing it.. I’d buy from then again .. I’m also confident that accurate bearing would have them.. but they don’t have a website for ordering without calling them..

FrankLee said:
Thanks very much! I'm sure someone can use this info in the future.

http://www.vxb.com/SB205-Bearing-25mm-Bore-Insert-Mounted-Bearings-p/kit12334.htm

bubinga · Apr 6, 2015

saved to my hard drive, good thread,lots of good info. thanks Frank.

FrankLee · Apr 14, 2015

dp#13 is cleaned, lubed, and back together... another nice one!

4/26/2015:

Yesterday, I started tearing down the wet grinder. No surprises except the 1/2" of dried silt in the bottom of the reservoir and that the pulley shafts run through the castings with no bushing of any sort. Regardless, this will clean-up nicely and run great.

Also, the buyer for dp#13 came to pick it up.

Today, I started tearing down the table saw and discovered another fubar tilt gear. This was not a surprise... so many of these 8" saws suffer the same fate. This saw will definitely be a part-out.

5/5/2015:

It's been very slow for a couple weeks with other life things going on. No new machines, but I do have a lead on another drill press. I hope to find out something this coming weekend.

I did start parting out the 103.23831 table saw. I also did more clean-up of the wet grinder, but I want to get a few new bushing washers before I reassemble.

15125.12724

5/6/2015:

I went to an estate sale today and bought this old motor-turned-sander. It was sitting on this rather decent Craftsman grinder pedestal.

5/9/2015:

The wet grinder is back together. I've got the perfect 1725 rpm motor for it and a board to mount them on.

bubinga · Apr 14, 2015

Looking good. I had that same stand (sander) on a craftsman table saw.
Frank, did you start making and selling the craftsman stubby screw driver feed handles?
I see a set for sale on e bay?

WallynSC · Apr 20, 2015

I enjoy reading your threads FrankLee.

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