Craftsman Drill Press for JZiggy

JZiggy · Aug 17, 2015

Just drove out a ways to pick up this 50's Craftsman drill press, model 103.23140. It has the 1/2hp motor and a floor stand base.

I'm really impressed with the shape it's in. It seems to have had only gentle use and cosmetically is in good condition, short of surface rust and tarnish. Everything runs very smooth and quiet.

I measured the runout at 0.003" (that is, the gauge swings between 0.000 and 0.003, not sure if it is correct to call that 3 thou or 1.5thou)

(It has a CM Block cousin hiding back there)

This is my first drill press and I'm getting "orientated" to it. I have a few basic questions that I hope ya'll can help me with.

0) Is this a model 100?

1) It has the original 2-prong cord which appears to be in fine shape. Is there any concern not having a ground?

2) When I first got it, the quill ran up and down smoothly. I snugged the quill lock and after loosening the lock the quill began to have some significant drag. Could this mean the quill lock sleeves are getting sticky?

3) Does the center bolt on the head allow the head to slide up and down the post?

4) The rubber ring (quill gasket?) is pretty wonky. What is this typically replaced with?

5) In case I feel the urge to change out bearings on the motor or the head unit, does anyone know offhand which types it takes?

A_Pmech · Aug 17, 2015

1) Yup! Good little machines!

2) Yes, it's worth adding a grounded cord. If the motor was to have a winding failure, the machine frame will become "hot."

3) I don't believe the head will slide up and down the post. It's simply a clamp bolt.

4) The "gasket" is simply a rubber bump stop to soften the blow of the quill retracting to the housing.

5) The numbers will be etched on the bearings when you remove them.

FrankLee · Aug 17, 2015

JZiggy said:
Just drove out a ways to pick up this 50's Craftsman drill press, model 103.23140. It has the 1/2hp motor and a floor stand base.

I'm really impressed with the shape it's in. It seems to have had only gentle use and cosmetically is in good condition, short of surface rust and tarnish. Everything runs very smooth and quiet.

I measured the runout at 0.003" (that is, the gauge swings between 0.000 and 0.003, not sure if it is correct to call that 3 thou or 1.5thou)

(It has a CM Block cousin hiding back there)

This is my first drill press and I'm getting "orientated" to it. I have a few basic questions that I hope ya'll can help me with.

0) Is this a model 100?

Yes. Very nice find!

1) It has the original 2-prong cord which appears to be in fine shape. Is there any concern not having a ground?

I would not change the cord unless absolutely necessary. Once you open those old motors, the insulation on the internal wiring can start cracking and breaking. However, that may be reason enough to just remove the bottom motor cover and take a look.

2) When I first got it, the quill ran up and down smoothly. I snugged the quill lock and after loosening the lock the quill began to have some significant drag. Could this mean the quill lock sleeves are getting sticky?

Yes. That's a very common occurance. The original factory grease from 195n has turned to cement by now. That's a simple R&R to clean and lube (I use Super Lube).

3) Does the center bolt on the head allow the head to slide up and down the post?

Yes, but make sure the head frame is supported before loosening that lock! You don't want to let that head frame free-fall to the table. Your decent .003 run-out will likely get worse. Because you have the locks with the removable levers, I would lock the head frame and remove the lever. That way, it cannot accidently get knocked loose.

4) The rubber ring (quill gasket?) is pretty wonky. What is this typically replaced with?

O-rings with a 3/16" cross section work very well for that quill washer (1-5/8") and the spindle washer (5/8"). Check here.

5) In case I feel the urge to change out bearings on the motor or the head unit, does anyone know offhand which types it takes?

Bearings are readily available from many sources. I use Accurate Bearing. Check here.

A_Pmech answered most, but I'll elaborate a little.

Maui · Aug 17, 2015

Frank, very good information. Thanks for posting.

Maui

JZiggy · Aug 17, 2015

Thanks Frank and PMech!

Glad to hear Super Lube works for you too. That's my preferred grease for this kind of stuff since it's clear and buttery, without being tacky.

Good recommendation on removing the head frame lock lever -- I just realized someone has already done it! (So I am missing that lever)

I'll continue to update here as I dig into this nifty machine.

JZiggy · Aug 17, 2015

Also, could someone explain how to take the chuck off?

Rix65 · Aug 17, 2015

Not to hi-jack this thread but I also have one of these presses that I just picked up. I've got it broken down however, I'm wondering if someone has a thread on breaking down the motor? My model is 103_21761. It has the Craftsman 1/2 hp motor.

thanks

pendragon1998 · Aug 17, 2015

I have been wanting one of those for several years now. Yours looks great!

JZiggy · Aug 17, 2015

Thanks man!

I had to gently hammer out both the quill and head lock sleeves. They were covered in leftover varnish from the old grease. A bit of wirebrushing and it all works smoothly now.

JZiggy · Aug 20, 2015

So I bought an Accu-link belt from Hazard Fraught today, and the belt is too wide to fit on the bottom pulley on the spindle for the slowest speed. The belt rubs the casting in a couple of places. Anyone else run into this problem?

JZiggy · Aug 25, 2015

Even after cleaning and oiling the column I was not happy with how the lock for the table would stick after tightening. You know, you loosen the handle and nothing happens... give is a joggle and suddenly it drops.

Drill press hack:

Put a bronze thrust bearing under the head of the bolt and a compression spring between the locking halves. When you loosen the bolt the spring forces the locks apart so they aren't able to stick. The thrust bearing makes the bolt turn nice and smooth. It improves the action of the locking table quite nicely.

Edit: for the more observant members, yes, after taking this picture I did grind the ends of the spring flat so they don't gouge the locks

nine4gmc · Aug 25, 2015

any part numbers or sizes for the spring and thrust bearing?

jakemac · Aug 25, 2015

I dunno, I kinda look forward to giving the table a side-slap as part of the ritual of using my grandfathers DP. There's something comforting about it. One hand under the edge of the table to keep it from dropping, and the other delivers the dope-slap to get it to move. Maybe it's just me. :dunno:

I like your solution to the issue though. Creative thinking. :thumbup:

JZiggy · Aug 25, 2015

For the thrust bearing pick anything on McMaster with a 1/2" ID.

Unfortunately I don't know a spring part #... it was one of those that's been rattling around the corner of a plastic bin somewhere and it finally found a reason to live.

But you'd want ID close to 1/2" to slip over the bolt, about 1" free length, and no more than 1/8" wire diameter.

Any reason to apply this to the quill lock as well?

JZiggy · Aug 25, 2015

On my press there is a collar that is used to press the chuck off the taper. But as far as I can tell it is simply taper friction that hold the chuck onto the quill. With enough torque I imagine it could spin. Do some models have a collar that locks the chuck onto the quill?

nine4gmc · Aug 25, 2015

jakemac said:
I dunno, I kinda look forward to giving the table a side-slap as part of the ritual of using my grandfathers DP. There's something comforting about it. One hand under the edge of the table to keep it from dropping, and the other delivers the dope-slap to get it to move. Maybe it's just me.

I like your solution to the issue though. Creative thinking.

^^^ Drill press pimp ^^ :pimpflash

jakemac · Aug 25, 2015

nine4gmc said:
^^^ Drill press pimp ^^

^^^ Yo, Yo, Yo ^^^ :pimp:

Cato · Aug 25, 2015

Wow, I'm always impressed with the design of tools back then.

JZiggy · Aug 28, 2015

Replaced the bearings in the spindle and the quill with Accurate Bearing replacements (6205 & 6202-5/8, respectively).

It's a nice improvement and the drill runs very smoothly. I measured the runout on the taper (no chuck installed) and got 1/2 thousandth.

I did notice the upper quill bearing dropped into the OD bore with very little force. At higher speeds you can see it "walk". I ordered some bearing retainer compound and will take those bearings back apart and glue the ODs in place.

MPOWERD · Aug 28, 2015

Great thread... I have the table version of this drill press (with a home made table) and I am in the (slow) process of restoring it. Mine is in much rougher condition and has a newer (gold painted) motor on it. Picked it up locally off of Craig's list from the original owner.

My belt and drill pulley are damaged and I need a recommendation for replacement...

JZiggy · Aug 29, 2015

Hey MPOWERD, which pulley is damaged? The one for the motor should be easy to replace but the spindle pulley is pretty special. Would need to find a factory replacement.

I am liking the Conti-Tech belts which you can get on Amazon for about $5. They are cogged and they have every size in inch increments from 15 onward. The stock replacement is approx 45" (at least on mine).

JZiggy · Aug 29, 2015

Here's my (fully functional) prototype. The brings actual spindle speed down from 630 to 240 rpm, as measured with a laser tach.

Hoping to upgrade from brass bushings to needle bearings, once I get a little machining help (please?)

thebigdaddyo · Aug 29, 2015

Gret find! I have a floor model and a counter model. They will probably be used by my great-grand kids some day.

JZiggy · Sep 4, 2015

After a little cleanup and some modifications

This table lift is really nifty. Very fast and it spins with the table. I made a little bracket to adapt it to the tilt table and made a hole to put the chuck key in an easy access spot.

Also built a slow-speed pulley using a stock motor pulley which allows me to get to 205 rpm. This one has needle bearings pressed in. The operation is very smooth and quiet.

I can make more of these slow speed pulleys, especially if you are OK with brass bushings (which work fine, just need a bit of grease occasionally). The design utilizes an angled set screw just like the factory attachment. Very easy to install adjust belt tension. PM me and we can work something out.

nine4gmc · Sep 4, 2015

Any info on the slow speed pulley or is that secret sauce?

JZiggy · Sep 4, 2015

No, no sauce here

2-3/8" OD x 2" aluminum slug. Locking screw drilled at 45*. Through hole drilled with 1/2" hardened shaft pressed in. Factory pulley drilled out to 11/16" with roller needle bearings pressed in either end. Pulley has roller thrust bearings on either end. Wave washer puts a bit of compression on it and held on with a shaft collar.

I don't think I'll make another like that because it took me too much time and drilling out the pulley was a PITA.

Shiftless · Sep 4, 2015

JZ:
Beautiful! Well done modifications and upgrades!

nine4gmc · Sep 4, 2015

Thanks JZiggy! Can you access the screw on the 45* angle with the pulley on? What was the trouble drilling the pulley out? Would it be easier to jut drill the pulley bearing deep on either end or does it need to go all the way through? Sorry for all the questions but your contraption looks like an original part and I don't have access to one but you make it sound so easy(other than the pulley). Any part numbers for the bearings? I could go on but I hate to bother you. :lol:

JZiggy · Sep 5, 2015

Hey Nines,

Yes you can access the screw. The hole needs to be drilled in the right spot but yet. It's pretty easy to access really. I'll take it back out and get some pictures of the unit so you can see the details.

My trouble was fixturing the pulley. Also, the hole needs to be really straight so that the pulley runs without a wobble. Even mine has a bit of a wobble. For this reason I would drill straight through and not try to drill a bit on each end.

For the needle bearings (well, basically everything) they are all from McMaster.

I actually have an extra one now (the prototype) which is set up to use brass bushings. Someone would just need to get a pulley with 5/8" ID and you're good to go.

JZiggy · Sep 15, 2015

A 1-1/2" pulley drops the speed to 160 rpm

This Taiwanese ball bearing chuck sure does look funny, but it clamps up great. Took the runout down to 0.002".

MPOWERD · Sep 17, 2015

JZiggy said:
Hey MPOWERD, which pulley is damaged? The one for the motor should be easy to replace but the spindle pulley is pretty special. Would need to find a factory replacement.

I am liking the Conti-Tech belts which you can get on Amazon for about $5. They are cogged and they have every size in inch increments from 15 onward. The stock replacement is approx 45" (at least on mine).

My motor pulley is cracked apart and the belt is shot...

Looks like I am lucky on the pulley being the motor pulley and thanks for the info on the belt!

dngrmse · Sep 17, 2015

That table lift is nice. Did you fabricate that yourself, or adapt it from another press?

JZiggy · Sep 18, 2015

dngrmse said:
That table lift is nice. Did you fabricate that yourself, or adapt it from another press?

Thank you! It came on a well-worn Craftsman 150 that I rescued. I have not found any manuals but the same item is referenced on another forum:

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/drill-table-lift-137485/#post643517

I think it is actually a Craftsman accessory though I can't find any markings on it. I had to make that steel plate adapter to make it work with the tilt table. But it actually moved the chain very close in to the column allowing it to lift and drop with less binding.

JZiggy · Sep 18, 2015

More pictures of the slow-speed adapter I made. This one features 4 sets of needle bearings to let it spin very smoothly. The 2 needle thrust bearings can be seen on the top and bottom of the pulley. There are 2 sets of needle rollers pressed into the pulley bore.

I've since adapted it to have a shorter shaft the doesn't stick over the top so much. It has ground flats to let an 11mm wrench tension it in the column.

Set screws to retain the shaft (though it's already pressed in... suspenders & a belt, you know)

Angled set screw to lock into the column. The original Craftsman unit uses this method and it works really well.

I can make more of these if someone is interested.

nine4gmc · Sep 18, 2015

Real nice!! Thanks for the great pics, I think I will be attempting something similar soon.

Sent from my iThingy using Tapatalk

JZiggy · Sep 18, 2015

Sweet! I'd like to see what you come up with.

Com_VC · Sep 19, 2015

You got any more info on the table lift, I've never seen one like that before.

JZiggy · Sep 19, 2015

Nope, that link is the only reference I can find.

JZiggy · Sep 21, 2015

A Delta production table ended up on my Craftsman, somehow.

The table weighs at least 75lb, maybe more. It has gears in places where other tables don't even have places. Handle drives a worm gear, driving a compound gear for additional leverage which engages the rack gear on the side. Interestingly, the rack gear sits on a ball bearing on top of a stop collar so the whole table swivel easily.

Edit: I finally put the table on a bathroom scale and sure enough -- 75 lb.

nine4gmc · Sep 21, 2015

I have a similar delta production table on my delta dp. You are right , it's freaking heavy!! Mine has two T slots front to back and a threaded coolant drain hole on the rear corner in the groove.

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Craftsman Drill Press for JZiggy

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