INTMD8
Well-known member
I thought I would put up some pics as I was able to finish my floor today. After looking at a ton of pics I decided on a pure white floor with no chips.
Materials are from Legacy and consist of-
6 gallons off white standard primer
9 gallons super hide white HD epoxy
6 gallons super hide white urethane
3 gallons gel crack filler
I started with a 4.5in diamabrush around the entire perimeter of the shop. This was done before the steel walls were put up.
Next was filling all saw cut's with backer rod and the gel crack filler. Most of this turned out seamless in the end but there are a few spots you can see through the coating. I think the liquid stuff that's poured onto sand would have been easier.
Next was grinding the floor. Had no luck with rental diamabrush setup from Home Depot. Took over 4 hours to do 100sq/ft and still missed a lot of spots. The surface of the concrete seemed very hard (it was poured in 99) and also not extremely flat.
Sooo, I decided to grind the entire thing with a 7" grinder and a diamabrush. (I needed 2) Lots of work! Let me tell you I did not enjoy it but felt 100% confident it was profiled correctly. Blew everything out 3 times with electric leaf blower then very slowly vacuumed each section.
Next was burning the fiberglass hairs from the surface with a weed torch. This was only partially successful as there are still some areas that had little fiberglass nuggets sticking up. I cut off most with an exacto knife before applying the urethane but you can still see some up close. I then cleaned and vacuumed the entire place again.
I didn't want the white peeking out from under the door so a line was cut into the floor just inside. Masked off and used a clear sealer.
Once that dried I closed up the shop and masked off everything next to the floor. It was high 80's and humid so I ran the A/C until it was 62deg and 45% humidity.
Scotty mentioned that wasn't enough humidity so that was changed to 70deg and 69% humidity for the urethane top coat.
I used an old pair of shoes to make some 'spike' shoes with elevator bolts and fender washers. They worked great. Set everything out and mixed up the first batch of primer. My girlfriend helped me cut in the 2 epoxy coats. I did the urethane myself as there was more time to work with it. Some more help may have been easier but I didn't trust anyone to not mess it up, miss a spot, whatever.
Everything went down nice. I had a spot that I believe the primer was too thick which resulted in about 5 little bubbles from outgassing. I cut them out with an exacto knife before applying the urethane top coat.
I will mention I was slightly nervous before the top coat as the epoxy cured a bit streaky and you could see a lot of roller marks even though I backrolled it each direction twice.
The urethane top coat however seems to cover extremely well and as soon as it was going down I could see no color differences or roller marks. Only needed 3.5 of the 6 gallons.
Not perfect but still looks super nice!
Materials are from Legacy and consist of-
6 gallons off white standard primer
9 gallons super hide white HD epoxy
6 gallons super hide white urethane
3 gallons gel crack filler
I started with a 4.5in diamabrush around the entire perimeter of the shop. This was done before the steel walls were put up.
Next was filling all saw cut's with backer rod and the gel crack filler. Most of this turned out seamless in the end but there are a few spots you can see through the coating. I think the liquid stuff that's poured onto sand would have been easier.
Next was grinding the floor. Had no luck with rental diamabrush setup from Home Depot. Took over 4 hours to do 100sq/ft and still missed a lot of spots. The surface of the concrete seemed very hard (it was poured in 99) and also not extremely flat.
Sooo, I decided to grind the entire thing with a 7" grinder and a diamabrush. (I needed 2) Lots of work! Let me tell you I did not enjoy it but felt 100% confident it was profiled correctly. Blew everything out 3 times with electric leaf blower then very slowly vacuumed each section.
Next was burning the fiberglass hairs from the surface with a weed torch. This was only partially successful as there are still some areas that had little fiberglass nuggets sticking up. I cut off most with an exacto knife before applying the urethane but you can still see some up close. I then cleaned and vacuumed the entire place again.
I didn't want the white peeking out from under the door so a line was cut into the floor just inside. Masked off and used a clear sealer.
Once that dried I closed up the shop and masked off everything next to the floor. It was high 80's and humid so I ran the A/C until it was 62deg and 45% humidity.
Scotty mentioned that wasn't enough humidity so that was changed to 70deg and 69% humidity for the urethane top coat.
I used an old pair of shoes to make some 'spike' shoes with elevator bolts and fender washers. They worked great. Set everything out and mixed up the first batch of primer. My girlfriend helped me cut in the 2 epoxy coats. I did the urethane myself as there was more time to work with it. Some more help may have been easier but I didn't trust anyone to not mess it up, miss a spot, whatever.
Everything went down nice. I had a spot that I believe the primer was too thick which resulted in about 5 little bubbles from outgassing. I cut them out with an exacto knife before applying the urethane top coat.
I will mention I was slightly nervous before the top coat as the epoxy cured a bit streaky and you could see a lot of roller marks even though I backrolled it each direction twice.
The urethane top coat however seems to cover extremely well and as soon as it was going down I could see no color differences or roller marks. Only needed 3.5 of the 6 gallons.
Not perfect but still looks super nice!
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