3/4-HP Baldor grinder model 862RE - won't run.

3/4-HP Baldor grinder model 862RE - Now runs.

April 14, 2020 - This Baldor won a poll 'What grinder restore do you want to see?'.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=449237


I found old PhotoBucket pictures to this thread and decided to reactivate it.
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I picked up a 3/4-HP Baldor grinder, Catalog Number (model) 862RE. Big Red.

Forgive me, if this isn't old enough to be vintage. Moderators, just move the tread in that event.

I bought it knowing it has issues, it is missing some parts.



No bottom cover, no relay, no capacitor, and no run.


Baldor says the grinder uses an oil filled cap (run cap) 16-MFD 370VAC.

I found a 17.5-MFD 370VAC run cap.

I understand that replacement run caps need to be a very close in value to the OEM.

I tried the 17.5 cap.

When switched ON, the grinder 'bumps' a small amount, but does not run.

Could it be the 17.5MFD cap is not close enough?

I double checked the wiring, it has a 120V plug, and it is wired for that voltage.

The field coils Ohmed out OK, so I cracked open the case.

I believe this is the problem.

Rust.











The 'blob' on the rotor had me puzzled at first. I thought it might be an insect nest. But, after poking at it, it's not budging and there's another 'blob' on the other side.


I believe it is for balancing the rotor assembly.

The rust is removed from the rotor and it is waiting in the freezer, until the bearings are ready.

Right now the bearings are soaking to clean out the old grease, to allow inspection, but I'll probably replace them.

If they are still serviceable, what type of grease should be used? I'm thinking automotive bearing grease should be well within the grinder's operating range.

I can't believe this grinder has rust. I rescued/restored a 1-HP CM Block grinder that also had sat in water.

Well, at least this grinder was not much $$ and it is quite the HD built grinder.

The bearings are marginal, so NTN 6206Z shielded ($11.05/ea. at Grainger) will be used.

OEM p/n: NSK 6206Z
30 mm Bore ID
62 mm OD
16 mm Width


The clean-up has started.

Light media blasting removed the paint and the rust from the base and end bells.


The bearings will be fitted to the arbor/shaft, the the arbor assembly fitted to the housing & end bells, and the base & electrics re-fitted (w/ new power cord).

I am eager to see if this guy has any more surprises for me.

Nice job so far Dr. Blockhead!

"I believe this is the problem"... I love comic understatement!

What happened to that machine? Caught in flood waters? Stopped running so the previous owner pitched it out back in the rain for a couple of years?

Thanks Shift,

I'm real good at taking things apart ...

I don't know for sure what it's history is, the seller said he bought it that way and lost interest ...

I think he tried a new cap, when it didn't fix it set it aside. Then the parts got lost in the move to his new place - he was busy landscaping and making the place pretty.

My guess about the rust is, it was on a shed floor in a tote, the roof leaked, then it sat in water for a while. It must have been a bit of water too, the rust extended up to the rotor/shaft.

Those are some beefy internals. Can't wait to see it back up and running.

McB - I really am getting a work out, restoring this big guy - Big Red!

Along with the 17.5MFD run capacitor, new NTN 6206Z bearings (30 mm Bore/ID, 62 mm OD, 16 mm Width) are now fitted to the arbor. A replacement power plug is installed and a replacement STDP power switch is also now in place.

The old switch had an one open side prior to cleaning with DeOxit. After DeOxit, the resistance was 0.1 Ohm, but there was still an intermittent open.






The restore is not complete, but now it runs. And that's a big incentive to keep on going with the restore.
The rest of the paint will be removed, then it will be repainted red. I picked up used eye shields, then a LH tool rest is all that remains to be found.


WOW - 4 yeas and 6 months later, it is back on the bench.

Here is where it sat yesterday.

Looking good. How did you get the rust off the rotor?

McBrownie said:

Looking good. How did you get the rust off the rotor?

Click to expand...

What else, ... Go Blue! with a light touch! 1.00-HP Block m-257.191600


My apprentices. Like me, a lot more grey now!

April 14, 2020 - update.

I dug out the wheel covers last night and slathered them up with paint stripper and placed them in Ziploc bags.

Next I will tear it back down to get the machine tag off and strip down the rest of the paint.

Thanks for looking.

OK, finally able to get back to working on Big Red.

I pulled the wheel guards off and tested different spray paints I have, to see which is a good match.

Left: Rust-Oleum, Gloss Enamel, Sunrise Red
Middle: OEM
Right: Valspar, Tractor & Implement, 5339-20, FRD RED


Left: X-O Rust, Hot Red, XOP41, 125840
Middle: OEM
Right: Rust-Oleum, High Performance Enamel, 7564, Safety Red


I haven't decided yet, but it looks like Valspar's Tractor & Implement, 5339-20, FRD RED is no longer available, so I have 3 choices.

The Rustoleum Gloss Enamel Sun Rise on the left appears to be a cooler red and has my vote.

The Valspar on the right is warmer, seems to have an orange cast to it.

Rock on Garth!

Matthew_A


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The Rustoleum color looks less sharp to the eye. The other version of red seems too harsh a red for a machinery item. Can never go wrong with Rustoleum paint..

I painted the wheel guard covers with 2 coats of the Rust-Oleum, High Performance Enamel, 7564, Safety Red.

I really came down to which color I had the most of 'in-stock'.

I'll post up some pictures tomorrow.

The wheel guards (pictured above) have been media blasted to bare metal. They will get a coat of red primer, and 2 or more coats of the Rust-Oleum, Safety Red.

Do you notice much change in the color based off the primer?

Wouldn't you guess I liked the Valspar... When it's close I would do what you did and use what I had the most of.

Looking forward to seeing it completed.

I like the Valspar the most, too. But I just can't find it - use to be at the local Tractor Supply stores, not anymore.

I'll have to compare the after pictures, to see if the primer made any change.

In the long run, I figure it's a tool I'll use, not a 'trailer queen'!




June 5, 2020 - Update, rain delay. Hopefully tomorrow.

gnpenning said:

Do you notice much change in the color based off the primer?

Wouldn't you guess I liked the Valspar... When it's close I would do what you did and use what I had the most of.

Looking forward to seeing it completed.

Click to expand...

Here are a couple of pictures with the Rust-Oleum Safety Red paint on the wheel guard and wheel guard cover, the cover has been taken down to bare metal and primed and painted with 2 top coats. To my eye, the primer (red-oxide Rust-Oleum) doesn't change the finish color.

Test piece from above.


Cover with primer and 2 top coats.