let's see your craftsman block grinders

CalsXS2 · Feb 12, 2016

Well store the boss approved this trade. I can trade my crappy china job and $20 for this 1/3 hp industrial model. There's no light, no quench tray, and a sloppy brushed on paint job.

What I want to do it to rob the shields off of it. Then sell the rest. I can see right now how you guys end up with more than one,,,lol.

With my currant 1/2 hp china job, I can bog it down when I'm cleaning rusty parts. Would this 1/3 hp industrial model have more torque. Like I say. My intentions are to just pass this along when I get my 3/4 hp model in march.

Should I go for it.

vertguy · Feb 12, 2016

I have the same 1/3 hp unit (actually 2 - hehe) and it is ok for light wire brush work. But once I picked up a 1/2 and then a 3/4, both are night and day better for heavy work and are almost impossible to bog down.

Outlawmws · Feb 12, 2016

I'm using a 1/3 with a fine wire wheel with no prob, but I'd bet the heavy braided wheels I used to use doubled up would get bogged on a heavy pass...

linwood · Feb 12, 2016

exmaxima1 said:
Beautiful paint---what brand/color did you use?

Sorry It took so long but here is the paint I used

JZiggy · Feb 13, 2016

Metal.

Reversepolarity · Feb 13, 2016

Really nice!

bagged89s10 · Feb 13, 2016

JZiggy said:
Metal.

Awesome.
I'll take one of those labels for my 1 HP!

G20-Budo · Feb 13, 2016

JZiggy said:
Metal.

Great job Jziggy! It looks like new.

McBrownie · Feb 13, 2016

JZiggy said:
Metal.

JZ,

Very nice. Great action photo too! :thumbup:

JZiggy · Feb 13, 2016

bagged89s10 said:
Awesome.
I'll take one of those labels for my 1 HP!

I can help with that if you're interested!

torqueman2002 · Feb 13, 2016

McBrownie said:
JZ,

Very nice. Great action photo too!

x2!

Is the knock-out plug a brake adjuster plug, or ?

Tres kool!

CalsXS2 · Feb 13, 2016

Hey Torqueman. Or anyone. Can I get the measurement inside of the metal framed shield mounting tabs. Below is pics of the 3/4 hp I have on the way. Want to know if the metal shields will fit in place of these.

Can someone please take a measurement like in the pic.

McBrownie · Feb 13, 2016

CalsXS2 said:
Hey Torqueman. Or anyone. Can I get the measurement inside of the metal framed shield mounting tabs. Below is pics of the 3/4 hp I have on the way. Want to know if the metal shields will fit in place of these.

Can someone please take a measurement like in the pic.

Cal,

Your grinder doesn't have the metal frame with glass inserts. You can get replacement plastic shields from Grainger, but not like the originals like you have on your grinder. I would try to epoxy the crack in your originals and go with that. There should be links to replacements in TM's sig line if you want to go that route.

Also, if you have a set a of metal frames, they should bolt right up in place of the plastic ones. Again, measurements are in the links in TM's sig line.

bagged89s10 · Feb 13, 2016

JZiggy said:
I can help with that if you're interested!

Definitely. My label is shot. Let me know how much.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1455419548.044856.jpg

drivesitfar · Feb 13, 2016

Ziggy: i agree it looks awesome. i didn't see your picture was with it running until McB's eye caught it. did you make that label yourself or use Jack's label with his special WARNING?

nicely done :thumbup:

torqueman2002 · Feb 13, 2016

CalsXS2 said:
Hey Torqueman. Or anyone. Can I get the measurement inside of the metal framed shield mounting tabs. Below is pics of the 3/4 hp I have on the way. Want to know if the metal shields will fit in place of these.

Can someone please take a measurement like in the pic.

This might help.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4000528&postcount=2

JZiggy · Feb 14, 2016

drivesitfar said:
Ziggy: i agree it looks awesome. i didn't see your picture was with it running until McB's eye caught it. did you make that label yourself or use Jack's label with his special WARNING?

nicely done

I started with the file Jack gave me and modified it to be as close to the original as possible except for the crown logo.

I even bought a font to get it to look more original. I know that is a crime punishable by man-card revocation, but I was willing to take the risk

Shiftless · Feb 14, 2016

JZiggy said:
I started with the file Jack gave me and modified it to be as close to the original as possible except for the crown logo.

I even bought a font to get it to look more original. I know that is a crime punishable by man-card revocation, but I was willing to take the risk

JZ:
Nah, I for one don't consider it a crime at all!
Beautiful job on that restoration. I saw it right after you picked it up and let me say you brought it a long way. Great! :beer:

jakemac · Feb 14, 2016

Getting one step closer.
So here's the progression. A few years ago I picked up my first block grinder. An 8" 1hp with issues, but still usable if pampered (the same model as JZiggy's). A month ago I finally got around to opening up the bottom to look inside. Today, I was able to get the start capacitor out so I could get the numbers off it. Of course, it's discontinued due to gov't regulations, but with a little homework on Searspartsdirect, ereplacementparts, Google, and Zoro.com I was able to come up with the authorized substitution. I ordered a new one through Zoro and with shipping and tax the damage was $12.45. It will take about a week to get here. Who knows, in another year I may get around to stripping the nasty paint off and repainting. :dunno:

Here are the details:
Grinder Model: 397.19360

Original Start Capacitor : Mallory 5539080
210-260 MFD
110 VAC

Sear's Replacement : BMI 11017
216-259 UF
125 VAC
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/5539080/0009/257.html

Zoro/Grainger Replacement: Dayton 2MDR7
216-259 MFD
110-125 VAC
http://www.zoro.com/dayton-motor-start-capacitor-216-259-mfd-round-2mdr7/i/G2624553/

Both replacements are made in China.

Here's a picture of the print on the original start capacitor.

P.S. - I'm planning on discharging the old capacitor by tossing it in a snowbank tomorrow just to see what happens. If that doesn't work, then I'll try a bucket of water (from a distance).
WARNING - DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME !!!

G20-Budo · Feb 15, 2016

For those that might be looking for a grinder in the Seattle area:

http://wenatchee.craigslist.org/tls/5442692710.html

Not sure of the HP, but for $40.. might not be a bad deal.

Shiftless · Feb 15, 2016

Jake:
I seriously doubt that there is ANY remaining electrical charge in a capacitor that has been disconnected for that long. You have nothing to worry about. Go ahead and do whatever you plan to do to short out the leads but I bet absolutely nothing will happen.
Gradual leakage happens.

Outlawmws · Feb 15, 2016

jakemac said:
Getting one step closer.
So here's the progression. A few years ago I picked up my first block grinder. An 8" 1hp with issues, but still usable if pampered (the same model as JZiggy's). A month ago I finally got around to opening up the bottom to look inside. Today, I was able to get the start capacitor out so I could get the numbers off it. Of course, it's discontinued due to gov't regulations, but with a little homework on Searspartsdirect, ereplacementparts, Google, and Zoro.com I was able to come up with the authorized substitution. I ordered a new one through Zoro and with shipping and tax the damage was $12.45. It will take about a week to get here. Who knows, in another year I may get around to stripping the nasty paint off and repainting.

Here are the details:
Grinder Model: 397.19360

Original Start Capacitor : Mallory 5539080
210-260 MFD
110 VAC

Sear's Replacement : BMI 11017
216-259 UF
125 VAC
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/5539080/0009/257.html

Zoro/Grainger Replacement: Dayton 2MDR7
216-259 MFD
110-125 VAC
http://www.zoro.com/dayton-motor-start-capacitor-216-259-mfd-round-2mdr7/i/G2624553/

Both replacements are made in China.

Here's a picture of the print on the original start capacitor.

P.S. - I'm planning on discharging the old capacitor by tossing it in a snowbank tomorrow just to see what happens. If that doesn't work, then I'll try a bucket of water (from a distance).
WARNING - DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME !!!

Jake you can simply short the leads with a screwdriver for that size cap. it's not nearly big enough to be a concern, and as was mentioned is probably already discharged.

For larger caps you can use a resistor to drain the cap. if really big you can use a big power resistor (50-100 W), but that one a couple or watts is probably enough.

drivesitfar · Feb 15, 2016

JZ: all you have to do is show your 1HP block if anybody questions your MAN CARD. that thing is COOL and your MAN CARD is safe now. i do like the WARNING on your label as opposed to other ones that don't mention flying stones from your grinder's whee

JAKE: with all that advice are you still alive to tell us what happened??

G20: well the warning about a $40 block is all good and well, but it's about a 6 hour trip through the mountains and into snow country for us in Seattle to buy that one. that's if the mountain pass isn't closed like it has been several times this winter which would really make that an adventure.

CalsXS2 · Feb 15, 2016

So let me ask you guys this.

You ever find a grinder that shows its age and just leave it. No resto.

I'd like to see some working unrestored types,,,lol.

jakemac · Feb 15, 2016

Thanks for your concern guys. The grinder was used just last week, so there may still be something left in the capacitor, but I doubt it's much. The whole throw it in the snow to discharge it thing was really just for SnG's. I've been busy this morning, so the cap is still sitting on the bench. It will have to wait until later.

torqueman2002 · Feb 15, 2016

CalsXS2 said:
So let me ask you guys this.

You ever find a grinder that shows its age and just leave it. No resto.
......

What ...?! :willy_nil

Undo, undo ....!

:lol:

Outlawmws · Feb 15, 2016

CalsXS2 said:
So let me ask you guys this.

You ever find a grinder that shows its age and just leave it. No resto.

I'd like to see some working unrestored types,,,lol.

Depends on what they are asking. If nothing else an otherwise trashed unit can be used for parts.

jakemac · Feb 15, 2016

The capacitor discharge was anticlimactic.
A quiet little sizzle in the snow and that was it. So there couldn't have been much of a charge left. I used a screwdriver on the terminals to make sure.

It's so disappointing when things don't go BOOM! :sad:

vertguy · Feb 15, 2016

CalsXS2 said:
So let me ask you guys this.

You ever find a grinder that shows its age and just leave it. No resto.

I'd like to see some working unrestored types,,,lol.

I have left all mine as they were found... but then again, I seem to find them in decent condition :dunno:

Here's an example. But the 1/2hp on the right could use a paint job, but still debating if it stays or goes after getting the 3/4. Which reminds me that I need to get an updated family photo

New%20CM%20grinder%20016_zpsxwsk675b.jpg

Shiftless · Feb 15, 2016

jakemac said:
The capacitor discharge was anticlimactic.
A quiet little sizzle in the snow and that was it. So there couldn't have been much of a charge left. I used a screwdriver on the terminals to make sure.

It's so disappointing when things don't go BOOM!

Seriously, if anybody wants to discharge a large capacitor that is suspected of having a big charge in it, I would recommend against shorting with the screwdriver. Arcing will happen and might damage the cap as well as your Snap on or Wiha. :lol:

Best practices would be a power resistor of at least 5 watts and a couple of hundred ohms.
After that, use the screwdriver short circuit just as back up.
I once participated in a demonstration where the entire audience of almost a hundred people joined hands around a big auditorium to complete a circuit discharging a big capacitor that had been charged off a single 9 volt transistor radio battery. Pretty big jolt there!

mroneeyedboh · Feb 15, 2016

Why are you guys running wire wheels without the metal shroud or side plates ( or whatever they are called )... Never seen that done before.

McBrownie · Feb 15, 2016

CalsXS2 said:
So let me ask you guys this.

You ever find a grinder that shows its age and just leave it. No resto.

I'd like to see some working unrestored types,,,lol.

When they look like this, then yes:
View media item 40855

When they look like this, then.......no.
View media item 44370
However, they both still ran great!

jakemac · Feb 15, 2016

mroneeyedboh said:
Why are you guys running wire wheels without the metal shroud or side plates ( or whatever they are called )... Never seen that done before.

When wire wheeling odd or long size pieces, the shrouds can get in the way. Removing the shrouds allows you to get into the nooks & crannies.

To be clear, it is a safer practice to be using then shrouds and guards.

torqueman2002 · Feb 15, 2016

CalsXS2: "<so let="" me="" ask="" you="" guys="" this.=""
You ever find a grinder that shows its age and just leave it. No resto.
I'd like to see some working unrestored types,,,lol. "

I've made presents of the following Blocks to my brother and his sons. They are being used 'as found'.

There's another 1/3-HP m-397.19580 Block, his son-in-law is using; but, I don't have pictures of it.

Note: When I say 'as found', I mean that the bearings, power cords, and other consumables (stones/wheels) have been replaced.

Like McBrownie, when they look like this, I clean them up.

After.

</so>

torqueman2002 · Feb 15, 2016

We interrupt our regular program for this Public Service Announcement.

8" Pedestal Grinder 3/4 HP 220/440V 3-Phase

https://cleveland.craigslist.org/tld/5388629332.html

Sorry, it sure fooled me. It so looks like a Block. But AFAIK, they didn't build 440V models. 3-phase yes, 440V ???

We return you now, to your regular program.

Thanks for looking. :thumbup:

CalsXS2 · Feb 15, 2016

Were they only gray/silver. Does this look like a normal color. I don't think so. Has it been painted.

It was used to buff flatware. I hope that's just jewelers rouge all over it and there's like new paint just waiting to be found,,,lol. Hey. I can dream.

McBrownie · Feb 15, 2016

torqueman2002 said:
We interrupt our regular program for this Public Service Announcement.

8" Pedestal Grinder 3/4 HP 220/440V 3-Phase
Sorry, it sure fooled me. It so looks like a Block. But AFAIK, they didn't build 440V models. 3-phase yes, 440V ???

We return you now, to your regular program.

Thanks for looking.

FrankenBlock!

torqueman2002 · Feb 15, 2016

McBrownie said:
FrankenBlock!

Yes.

I wonder if it's related to this one.

Commercial style grinder Van Dorn

https://allentown.craigslist.org/tls/5442478527.html

exmaxima1 · Feb 15, 2016

Shiftless said:
I once participated in a demonstration where the entire audience of almost a hundred people joined hands around a big auditorium to complete a circuit discharging a big capacitor that had been charged off a single 9 volt transistor radio battery. Pretty big jolt there!

There must have been some additional circuitry in the form of a DC-DC converter to pump up the voltage to some value far above 9 volts. You can put you arms across a 12 volt car battery and not get a shock--you need more like 75-90 volts to even feel it. So summing the resistance of 100 persons in series like that will need more like 75-90 volts PER person (7500-9000 volts total) to get a "jolt" as you say.

torqueman2002 · Feb 15, 2016

CalsXS2 said:
Were they only gray/silver. Does this look like a normal color. I don't think so. Has it been painted.

It was used to buff flatware. I hope that's just jewelers rouge all over it and there's like new paint just waiting to be found,,,lol. Hey. I can dream.

Those look like OEM colors, appears to need a good cleaning to me.

I like to start with full strength Simple Green, don't let it dry as it may stain.

let's see your craftsman block grinders

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