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let's see your craftsman block grinders

torqueman2002

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Jun 3, 2009
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SE Michigan
Well, that was a waste of time. :(
I finally got to replace the start cap tonight and the grinder is still having the same start up issues. Makes lots of buzz/grind noise when you turn it on, but is fine when it gets up to running speed. If I don't give the wheels a spin to get it going, it will pop the breaker before it gets rolling on its own.

Guess I'm back to scratching my head. :headscrat

Try checking the start winding for continuity. It is very common for a stray lead to break from vibration, and I've soldered a number of them. If the winding is good, you can try checking the voltage across it when you turn it on---simply flip the grinder on its side, open the bottom plate and attach your meter leads to the windings right at the relay. At startup, you should have voltage and current going to both the start and run windings.

If the relay is the culprit, it may be serviceable.

Here's a link to a post, showing how to open a relay and 'clean' the points.
RelayPointsMoveableaP1030286.jpg
RelayPointsMoveableaP1030286.jpg


http://tinyurl.com/Block-Relay-Clean-r1
 
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Hemi49

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Feb 13, 2015
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282
Location
Rush (Rochester), NY
397.19370 1/2 HP Block
I bought this block from a Craigslist ad.....It is complete except for the quench tray.....I pulled everything off the arbors and ran it.....Acceleration and at speed was fine, but during deceleration it makes a little noise.....I'll plan on changing the bearings.......The stator, rotor and the motor housing are very clean......$35.00 well spent.....
Hemi
 

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Cypherian

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Delaware
Hey,

I have searched this but because of the nature of the inquiry it pulls to many hits. Is anyone aware or know of a post with a chart for threads on the arbors? I have a 3/4 hp been working on but patently ignoring the messed up threads trying to figure out the correct pitch etc. I have filed with a triangle file to clean up what I could. I want to run a die over them since they are a bit more messed up then a triangle file can straighten out.

Cypher
 

JZiggy

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Atlanta
5/8-18 on the big arbors, 1/2-20 on the small. Note one side is RH thread and one is LH.

Are thread files direction independent...?
 

Hemi49

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Feb 13, 2015
Messages
282
Location
Rush (Rochester), NY
Hey,

I have searched this but because of the nature of the inquiry it pulls to many hits. Is anyone aware or know of a post with a chart for threads on the arbors? I have a 3/4 hp been working on but patently ignoring the messed up threads trying to figure out the correct pitch etc. I have filed with a triangle file to clean up what I could. I want to run a die over them since they are a bit more messed up then a triangle file can straighten out.

Cypher

CYP
If it is a 1/2" arbor, the threads are 1/2"-20 right hand and 1/2"-20 left hand....
Hemi
 

Cypherian

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This type? Yes.

threadfile.jpg

Thanks Outlaw, thread file is not likely to be helpful . The previous owner either used a damn pair of pliers or stilson wrench on the nuts got new ones from Craftsman but about a 1/4 inch of the ends are buggered fairly well. :{ Let me feed the pups and take some pictures.

Cypher

Both have been Triangle Filed need a touch more maybe but would rather run a die down them to be sure.

Left Side

NCM_0377.jpg

NCM_0378.jpg

Right Side
NCM_0379.jpg

NCM_0380.jpg
 
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torqueman2002

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Jun 3, 2009
Messages
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Location
SE Michigan
Hey,

I have searched this but because of the nature of the inquiry it pulls to many hits. Is anyone aware or know of a post with a chart for threads on the arbors? I have a 3/4 hp been working on but patently ignoring the messed up threads trying to figure out the correct pitch etc. I have filed with a triangle file to clean up what I could. I want to run a die over them since they are a bit more messed up then a triangle file can straighten out.

Cypher

You need a split die.
split-thread-repair-die-no-name-size.jpg


http://www.threadtoolsupply.com/murray-tools-split-die-thread-repair-1-8.html
 

Outlawmws

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Aug 9, 2011
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The Badlands
Yeah the best deal for that is to start on the inside good threads and spin it off, but you need that die torqueman showed.

If they are only slightly buggered you might try cutting a nut in half (slight angle) on the points, so you could gently grip the threads in a vise with it and see if using that to de-burr the threads works.

Maybe heat the nut halves up and drop them in oil to see if you could get them harder? :dunno:
 
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torqueman2002

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Yes, they are not cheap.

I have used them and they are the correct tool for the job. I don't recall where I found the LH thread ones. You might try Graingers, MSC, Zoro, McMaster-Carr, ...

If 3/4-HP Block grinders were not so hard to find, it would make sense to just get another grinder for parts.

I haven't used that tool you found. My hesitation is universal tools are attractive, but I'm with you - I'd want input from someone with 1st hand experience.

Good idea Outlaw, might work.
 
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CalsXS2

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Are 3/4's 6'' or 7''.

Does having the exhaust ports tell anything as to model, or size, or anything,,,,lol.
 

McBrownie

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Cleveland, OH
Are 3/4's 6'' or 7''.

Does having the exhaust ports tell anything as to model, or size, or anything,,,,lol.

3/4hp (commercial/industrial cap starts) have 5/8" shafts and have 8" wheels. All 1/2hp have 1/2" shafts and are either 7" (commercial cap starts) or 6" (split phase). There is a 3/4hp split phase and our good doctor will hopefully chime in on what size those are.
 

CalsXS2

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Messages
507
3/4hp (commercial/industrial cap starts) have 5/8" shafts and have 8" wheels. All 1/2hp have 1/2" shafts and are either 7" (commercial cap starts) or 6" (split phase). There is a 3/4hp split phase and our good doctor will hopefully chime in on what size those are.


Well let's see. Here's what has me confused,,,lol.

The first 3/4 hp I bought, and haven't received yet btw, was advertised as a 6''. You can see on the label that it's a 1/2'' arbor.

Now I have found another 3/4 hp. It looks identical to the other. But you can not read the label. The guy said he measured the wheels and they are 7''.

So either one of these guys can't read a tape. Or there is 2 versions. :D
 

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exmaxima1

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Well let's see. Here's what has me confused,,,lol.

The first 3/4 hp I bought, and haven't received yet btw, was advertised as a 6''. You can see on the label that it's a 1/2'' arbor.

Now I have found another 3/4 hp. It looks identical to the other. But you can not read the label. The guy said he measured the wheels and they are 7''.

So either one of these guys can't read a tape. Or there is 2 versions. :D

AFAIK the split phase 3/4hp is a 7" with 1/2" shaft.
 

McBrownie

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Well let's see. Here's what has me confused,,,lol.

The first 3/4 hp I bought, and haven't received yet btw, was advertised as a 6''. You can see on the label that it's a 1/2'' arbor.

Now I have found another 3/4 hp. It looks identical to the other. But you can not read the label. The guy said he measured the wheels and they are 7''.

So either one of these guys can't read a tape. Or there is 2 versions. :D

There are two versions for both 1/2hp and 3/4hp models - split-phase motors and capacitor-start motors.

The capacitor-start motors are the heavier duty commercial or industrial models and have 7" (1/2hp) and 8" (3/4hp) wheels.

The split-phase 1/4hp, 1/3hp, and 1/2hp models all have 6" wheels. I'm not sure what the 3/4hp split-phase has.

That being said, there is nothing that stops you from running a 6" wheel on a 3/4hp grinder as they are all the same rpm.
 

torqueman2002

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Sorry to be slow, but I've been off on a start-up relay tangent, which sent me looking for different motor types, which sent me to ....., :eyecrazy:

Anyway, you get the idea.

Here's what I've managed to capture from the Blocks I have or have gifted to relatives. I know there are some holes, so if anyone can fill in the data, that would be great (a picture would help me for future reference).

Block%20sort%20Motor%20Type%2016Feb26%201.jpg


:thumbup:
 

mroneeyedboh

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Dec 30, 2011
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Hey guys so I'm still at a loss with the size of block grinder I should get. 3/4 HP or 1 hp? I would be doing it all , grinding, wire wheel, polish...
 

CalsXS2

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What would one expect to pay for a 3/4 hp. Say just for example with missing shades and a cracked glass.

I've all ready paid for one that I don't have yet. Won't have it in my possession for 2 weeks. But now I'm getting this other one. I might part with the first one,,,lol.

What would be a good price to ask.

What would a 3/4 go for on ebay. :dunno:
 

drivesitfar

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MR: I agree that a 3/4 or 1hp Block should take on any job and you will be ok with either like the guys already mentioned.

one thing to add if you are going to use it as a buffer i'd get some extensions to screw on the arbors to get the buffing wheels farther away from the block's motor. one to keep the flying cloth and chemicals for buffing out of the motor and also so you'll be able to get around the wheels with bigger items.

good luck

Cal: hard to price a 3/4 hp block without pictures especially since you said it might be missing parts. do a BIN (BY IT NOW) price on your Ebay auction if you are just trying to recoup your funds if you don't need 2, but personally i'd think 2 or 3 blocks isn't too many especially if you set them up with different wheels.
 

bulletpruf

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Hey guys so I'm still at a loss with the size of block grinder I should get. 3/4 HP or 1 hp? I would be doing it all , grinding, wire wheel, polish...

1 hp blocks are not easy to find. 3/4 hp blocks don't grow on trees, but they're easier to find than 1 hp. Frankly, I would start with a nice 1/2 hp, and then upgrade if you think it's necessary.

FYI - the folks with 1 hp blocks say they are extremely (read: scary) powerful.
 

torqueman2002

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What would one expect to pay for a 3/4 hp. Say just for example with missing shades and a cracked glass.

I've all ready paid for one that I don't have yet. Won't have it in my possession for 2 weeks. But now I'm getting this other one. I might part with the first one,,,lol.

What would be a good price to ask.

What would a 3/4 go for on ebay. :dunno:
This is a question that pops-up from time to time.

My 'take' on the Block price follows.

The price of a Block is somewhat subjective, based on the following (not necessarily in order of importance/value/cost).

  • Condition
  • Horse Power
  • Commercial/Industrial
  • Location - this has a Lot to do with availability, and therefore price.
(The price is variable too. Like in LA, I see a number of Blocks listed (1-HP in need of a restore, but missing HD base $120; 1/3-HP missing LH guard ... $100; 1/3-HP pre-Block for $130). In SE Michigan, these same Blocks would be 1/3 to 1/2 less expensive.)

So, if it looks good, has no free play in the arbor, no cracked cast pieces, starts and runs OK - it's a safe buy.

Keep in mind the cost of the following:

  • wheels/stones
  • bearings
  • power cord
  • power switch
  • relay
  • capacitor, if fitted
  • electrical terminal cleaning and repairs
  • paint, if you choose

The above updates will give you a grinder that should last for decades of home shop use, for most things around the garage.

I hope this is helpful.

If you have any questions, don't hesitate to get back with me.

I guess there's another point I'd like to leave you with.

It's up to each guy to put a value on the purchase.

If you are flipping it/them, you need to keep costs as low as possible.

If you are keeping it to use, then it's your budget and valuation.

If you are after a 'You ****!' - you never know when you will stumble upon one.

Best of luck.
 
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Shiftless

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Good advise Re: arbor extensions

Dr.B.
Excellent and informative post you put up yesterday.
Wow! over 25 machines.
I'm saving your spreadsheet to my hard drive.
 
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drivesitfar

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Doc: AWESOME post. :bowdown:

Shift: thanks and I forgot to mention for those that maybe didn't know that the threads on your extensions need to be RIGHT and LEFT hand threads to work correctly on each end.

have a great weekend guys (and gals)
 

torqueman2002

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Good advise Re: arbor extensions

Dr.B.
Excellent and informative post you put up yesterday.
Wow! over 25 machines.
I'm saving your spreadsheet to my hard drive.
I agree, good advise. I have links (somewhere) to a supplier of arbor extensions; but a Google search should turn up something.

That list includes many Blocks I no longer have, but I like to keep my own little data base of Blocks for reference.

It seems to come in handy every now then.
:)
 
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vertguy

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Hey TM... I just realized you did not have one of my 1/2hp versions on your list (397.19340). Think most of the specs are on the label - 6 inch wheel diameter.
 

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torqueman2002

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Hey TM... I just realized you did not have one of my 1/2hp versions on your list (397.19340). Think most of the specs are on the label - 6 inch wheel diameter.
Hey back, vertguy. Thanks.

I added it to the 'not mine' section of that list, so I don't go searching in vain for it 1 day. :lol_hitti

I'm assuming it has 7" wheels.

I'll post the list up again, once I get a few more updates. That is, if it's useful.
:)
 
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CalsXS2

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Whoo Hoo!! I finally got one!! :willy_nil

I know you guys got to be tired of me talking about the one I have on the way. Well this aint even it.,,lol. But it is the exact same model. So I'm going to have twins. :D

I finally met a guy with a little integrity. A complete 3/4 hp showed up on CL. I called the guy with in 9 minutes of the ad being posted. What's funny is I wasn't even looking for one,,,lol.

What sucked was I didn't have any money at the time. I wanted one so bad I went ahead and embarrassed myself and asked the guy if he would hold it for a few days. He said he would. But I've all ready missed out on 2 others like that. But he kept his work and I picked it up today. The guy said he had about 5 people trying to buy it out from under me for more money.

Anyway. I don't know if this is a good price or not. I paid $80 for it. It's very complete. Nice enough paint. But the label is faded. It does need a bath. Got some kind of white stuff all over it. Looked like drywall mud. It came with a face shield, a couple of new wire wheels, and a stand. I probably won't use the stand though.

According to TM's chart, my model number shows up twice. It's 397.19350. Which is listed as #14, and #19 I think. They both spec out the same. But one has a capacitor. I pulled the bottom off and I don't think there is a capacitor in there is there? I don't know what they look like,,,lol. I know there's nothing like the one on my drill press motor.

Can you date these by serial number. I seen no dated code on the bottom. But on the home made stand it say's 1979 in some concrete,,,lol.

Enough blabin. Just unloaded off the truck. Gotta clean it up.
 

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McBrownie

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Whoo Hoo!! I finally got one!! :willy_nil

I know you guys got to be tired of me talking about the one I have on the way. Well this aint even it.,,lol. But it is the exact same model. So I'm going to have twins. :D

I finally met a guy with a little integrity. A complete 3/4 hp showed up on CL. I called the guy with in 9 minutes of the ad being posted. What's funny is I wasn't even looking for one,,,lol.

What sucked was I didn't have any money at the time. I wanted one so bad I went ahead and embarrassed myself and asked the guy if he would hold it for a few days. He said he would. But I've all ready missed out on 2 others like that. But he kept his work and I picked it up today. The guy said he had about 5 people trying to buy it out from under me for more money.

Anyway. I don't know if this is a good price or not. I paid $80 for it. It's very complete. Nice enough paint. But the label is faded. It does need a bath. Got some kind of white stuff all over it. Looked like drywall mud. It came with a face shield, a couple of new wire wheels, and a stand. I probably won't use the stand though.

According to TM's chart, my model number shows up twice. It's 397.19350. Which is listed as #14, and #19 I think. They both spec out the same. But one has a capacitor. I pulled the bottom off and I don't think there is a capacitor in there is there? I don't know what they look like,,,lol. I know there's nothing like the one on my drill press motor.

Can you date these by serial number. I seen no dated code on the bottom. But on the home made stand it say's 1979 in some concrete,,,lol.

Enough blabin. Just unloaded off the truck. Gotta clean it up.

Cal,

Congratulatons! Looks like a split phase (not a cap start), and a great grinder. Very clean and complete. :thumbup:
 
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