Renovating my 12x20 Garage - need help from experts

tomedkaz · Mar 16, 2016

Hello.

I'm currently in the middle of renovating my one car garage (New Jersey). It it attached to the house and sits right below my master bedroom.

First thing I did was ripped out the sheet rock, old insulation and ran outlets.
Second, I also connected hot-and cold-water. Will properly insulate it, including heat trace just to be on the safe side.

I also purchased a new ultra-quiet garage opener.

The plan is to insulate everything with Roxul insulation and cover with sheet rock. 6 recessed IC-rated cans with LED bulbs will go on top.
Floor-wise the plan is also to install epoxy floor. Thinking of something black and glossy (with sand for friction)

Before I go further, what else should I do while the walls are opened? What else should I prewire for? I was thinking of running 220 in case I ever own an electric car. Good idea?

Thank you in advance.

tomedkaz · Mar 16, 2016

oh one more question: is heat-trace really necessary? The pipes will be nexted in foam insulation and roxul...I ran them through the ceiling then down to the inner-wall of the garage.

MScott · Mar 16, 2016

First thing you should do is put your location in your profile. (click on User CP at the top and follow instructions.) This will ensure that readers give you information that is appropriate for your climate.
As to your garage, wiring for 220 is a great idea. Also make sure you have lots of 120 outlets. Good lighting is important, and since you are starting fresh, go with LED tubes. (Costco has relatively cheap fixtures.) If you intend to put in a sound system, computer or TV, now is a good time to install appropriate wiring although much of that can use wireless now.
Insulation is good, but you haven't mentioned vapour barrier which is important in your climate and should be on the warm side of the insulation. I would use 6 mil plastic sheeting. Also it looks like you intend to use R23 in the ceiling. If you have room, more would be better, possibly doubling those R23 bats to give you R46.
Good luck with your project. :beer:

tomedkaz · Mar 16, 2016

Updated signature - thank you Scott.

BTW I forgot to add - I'm a car guy and will one day want to put a nice car in there - hence the renovation

I will never do any wrenching in the garage though - that's done in the driveway.

Anyways, I don't know much about vapor barrier. The garage is very dry. What would vapour barrier do and where do I install it? Ceiling? 6 ml plastic sheeting - could you provide links on what and where to buy? Sounds like a good idea.

And yes, R23 for the ceiling and R15 (I believe) for the walls.

I decided against heat trace on the pipe - instead I'll install an access panel where I'll be able to shut-off garage water for those cold winter days.

Thanks again!

aptdweller · Mar 16, 2016

While the walls are open, 240 V is a must. I would run one 30 A line to each side of the garage. You never know what the future holds (welder, big air compressor, electric cars etc.)

I would also make sure you have good lighting (the lighting sub-forum has lots of information).

Vapour barrier is essential in a cold climate. Air leaks represent a large portion of the heat that your house loses in the winter. It is a pretty standard item you'll find in a hardware store.

tomedkaz · Mar 16, 2016

Thanks again.

Do you guys have anything against recessed lights in the garage? They are IC rated and retain the same fire-proofness as sheetrock. I worry about extra heat loss though.

Kevin54 · Mar 16, 2016

Since you are only 12' wide, I would run a 220 outlet up front. And if you are serious about an electric car someday, run 220 to the rear wall. I would do the vapor barrier on the walls and ceiling. It will make a difference, not only to the garage, but to the house as well. If you have cable, run a cable wire to the front wall of the garage for a TV, and also run a wire for a computer for internet access while the walls are bare.

Get your cans that you can put insulation around for your lights

Good luck on the reno and keep us posted as to the progress.

tomedkaz · Mar 16, 2016

Thank you so much Kevin. I appreciate the feedback.

220V it is then. I will run one in the front and one in the back. Left or right side? That's the question...I guess either way, the future EV charging cord could be extended either side anyways. I'll sneak one to the outside as well. Who knows how things might turn out.

no need for computer or cable wires. I've got a solid WIFI in the house and I have no cable (yey - cord free!)

rooster shooter · Mar 16, 2016

Put in a laundry type sink if you got room. That'll keep you from running inside the house every time you need to wash something out.

tomedkaz · Mar 16, 2016

I wish rooster...but there is not enough room, and no place for drainage. Otherwise heck yea I would

CHRIS P · Mar 16, 2016

If you wanna go really bad a$$, do a few wall mounted lights. If you ever have to do bodywork you will be glad you did them.

tomedkaz · Mar 16, 2016

Chris - garage is too small for that...but I wish! Great idea though. Keep them coming.

MScott · Mar 16, 2016

tomedkaz said:
Anyways, I don't know much about vapor barrier. The garage is very dry. What would vapour barrier do and where do I install it? Ceiling? 6 ml plastic sheeting - could you provide links on what and where to buy? Sounds like a good idea.

The plastic sheeting is available at any building supply or hardware store. It is attached by stapling over both the walls and the ceiling after you have finished insulation and wiring. It's purpose is to keep moisture from condensing on the insulation or inside of the walls. It also acts as a wind/air stop. You may believe your garage is dry but if you bring a vehicle inside after rain, wet roads or snow there will be moisture and without the barrier there will be condensation on the insulation, walls and studs. You can buy insulation with a paper barrier attached that is stapled to the studs but it not only has too many joints to be an effective vapour barrier, but the paper deteriorates after a few years. The plastic is a much better product.

matt_i · Mar 16, 2016

Don't know if your garage door has the "child safety" photoeyes installed, but that would be something to send under the drywall. I think it was mentioned, but if you ever have intentions of using a cabinet saw (table saw) or multi HP air compressor or welder, a 240vac outlet sent to a dryer plug on an appropriate circuit would be nice to have at least one.

Also be careful on the floor joists, not supposed to notch or drill in the bottom third of the height.

cdestuck · Mar 16, 2016

Do you have any heat at all in the garage. If not I'd have plans for a electric fan heater mounted to the ceiling on a switch or thermostat. You'll want to run wiring for that. Be nice to be able to wash or thaw out the car in the winter.

qdvuu · Mar 16, 2016

Consider adding another window for flow-through ventilation in the warm weather so you can be more comfortable while puttering around.

North Run Grader · Mar 17, 2016

I would check with your local building codes, but I don't think the pot lights will pass. You have an attached garage under your bedroom and you will need 5/8"drywall or fireboard with taped joints. You also want to seal against carbon monoxide into your home and I'm unaware of any pot l lights that the area sealed enough. You can buy sealed electrical boxes to mount in the ceiling or vapor barrier boots that fit over the old style octagons, with some acoustical sealant and your vapor barrier you can make effective seal.

tomedkaz · Mar 21, 2016

Okay quick update.
We connected the hot/cold water piping (tested - everything is leak-free), ran 240V lines and insulated the garage. We also fixed faulty return lines that were sucking air from the garage ceiling insulation (poor design)

Also:
Total 110V outlets: 7
Total 240V outlets: 2 inside, 1 outside
The next step is vapor barrier.

Oh and I decided against recessed lights - I'll do three long LED tube lights. Looking for something super bright. Got any ideas?
I figured I'll stay better insulated without having 6 holes in the ceiling...and the code does not allow for it anyways.

darkk · Mar 21, 2016

We made the mistake of not putting in enough electrical.Put 220v at least on both ends. Split the wall sockets over several breakers instead of 2 for the whole garage. You always overload in a garage. If you have a drain close to the garage wall, plumb in a small sink...I didn't want to waste the space, wish I had..

tomedkaz · Mar 21, 2016

Darkk
I've got 110V outlets on two breakers.

The three 220V outlets are all on one, but only one will be used at the same time...depends on where our future electric car will be parked

Kevin54 · Mar 21, 2016

Tom....here is a thread on one car garages http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4069

funkiejack · Mar 23, 2016

subbed as i'll be doing the exact same thing this summer..

ejkuhl · Mar 23, 2016

As for 220 for an electric car, run as big a wire as you can or run as big of a conduit as you can. The electrical requirements keep going up for bigger batteries and faster charging. 30amp is about the minimum you can use now and if you want future upgrades without tearing everything out I would go with 60+ amp rated wire.

simpler=better · Mar 24, 2016

It ate my reply, basically:

1"PVC conduit to an empty capped pipe outside for a generator inlet

1" or 1.5" empty & capped conduit inside on both sides of the door, so you can wire to either side (Don't know where the filler plug will be on the mystery car yet)

tomedkaz · Apr 19, 2016

Quick update
I've been taking my sweet time between work and Business School.
My parents and in-laws came over to help with spackling and sheet rock. 5/8 sheet rock went on the ceiling (up to code). Decided against recessed cans - bought three 4FT long LED panels - will provide sufficient lighting.

Wiring is 2 x 20AMP breakers and 1 x 20AMP 220V (I regret not going with an 8W wire, that way I could potentially pre-wire for 40 AMPS - I'll have to stick with 30 Max on my 10.)

We are done priming - going to paint this week. Then floor - still deciding on epoxy vs. tiles. Any feedback?

bczygan · Apr 19, 2016

No cans!!!

Strip T8's or LED's 4' 2 bulb 6000 color temp 10 of them.

Take everything out and put as little as possible back in.

What will be done in there? Wrenching in the driveway? Faggedaboutit!

Compressor located elsewhere.

Small roller for tools and maybe a service cart (Harbor freight for both).

Cabinets and racks and shelving up high for supplies and equipment. Low cabinet for heavy things like jack and jack stands.

Electrical and air hose reels on ceiling near door.

Hang creeper and rolling seat.

All kids toys and holiday storage and yard tools in a shed.

Good lighting and an electrical outlet outside, so you can work with the garage door closed. I would even put an air outlet and hang a hose for airing tires.

Bill

ItsNemo · Apr 19, 2016

Kevin54 said:
I would do the vapor barrier on the walls and ceiling. It will make a difference, not only to the garage, but to the house as well.

Per vapor barrier, I don't think you want it on both sides of the joist cavaity, so if there's already barrier on one side he shouldn't add it to the other side.

Per the OP's question about flooring, I just got some samples of racedeck and am not very impressed with it, scratches and dings up more easily than I expected. Epoxy has it's issues too. I keep leaning back towards bare concrete for my garage.

Rorin67 · Apr 19, 2016

Debated the epoxy v tile floor argument for a while. I do a lot of wrenching in my garage, so I wanted something really durable. Decided on the floor tiles due to their ease of installation and looks. SUPER easy to install (was the quickest and easiest part of my garage renovation) and made a WORLD of a difference.

The RaceDeck tiles held up pretty well in my working garage. I use jacks and jack stands all of the time, and they did make little indentations if I was not careful. For you, for a garage that will not see any wrenching, then hands down, go with the tiles.

There is literally a 3 hour time difference between the first two photos (before and after):

Good luck - you're doing great.

tomedkaz · Apr 20, 2016

Thanks for your feedback - the tiles do look great!
I will never use a jack in the garage (too small) - my only concern is when I pull it and it's raining outside, where does the water go? Does it seep into the crack and create mold? I figured with epoxy It just stay son top until it evaporates. With tiles, it will seep into the cracks and then what? .... Thoughts?

tomedkaz · Apr 23, 2016

Painted the ceiling and installed The led lights. Very happy with the outcome. Sleek design that provides plenty of light. These will be controlled by a mention sensor. So every time I open the garage door the lights should come on.
. New garage opener and rollers come in tomorrow. Will also paint the walls and cinder locks.

My baby girl was supervising

Oh and on a side note i also finished building beds dos my wife's garden

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ItsNemo · Apr 23, 2016

Isn't that wood just going to rot out?

tomedkaz · Apr 23, 2016

The wood will last five years. Enough for me. By then my wife will realize how hard gardening is and I'll be able to out in a detached two car garage in there. Hehe. Plan is perfect.

A little update to my project. Had a very productive Saturday.
Installed a Chamberlain belt driven garage opener - this thing even has a battery backup. Installation was very easy actually and after replacing the garage door rollers the opening and closing is super quiet. It is a night and day difference between my old chain driven **** and this one. I'm very happy with it.

My wife and I also painted the garage, installed the lights etc. the floor is next. I need to decide who to go with when it comes to rubber tiles. Any preferences ??

Below are a few photos. Sneak peek of the garage paint scheme too

Thoughts?

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tomedkaz · Apr 24, 2016

Final touches.
Painted the floor to prep it for tiles.
Gotta think about furniture and bike racks now

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tomedkaz · May 10, 2016

New garage door flare

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yamaha0343 · May 10, 2016

Looks awesome! Only thing I would have done different is drop Cat6 while you had the walls open. I work in IT though, so I drop it everywhere every chance I get.

tomedkaz · May 11, 2016

Thanks Yamaha.
House is only wired for CAT6 in the living room and basement. Didnt feel the need to do it

wi-fi baby! hehe

Bluedodge · May 11, 2016

Heckuva upgrade in just five weeks. Looks great!

Can the bikes go anywhere else? Your garage looks too nice to clutter up.

One of these out back?

159396417_outdoor-garden-storage-shed-by-rubbermaid.jpg

tomedkaz · May 12, 2016

Bluedodge thanks!! That is an awesome idea!
That is exactly what I will do. Can't believe I didn't think about it before. This is why I love this place. So many great ideas!

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tomedkaz · May 12, 2016

What model is this btw?

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tomedkaz · Sep 20, 2017

Bump to close out my garage renovation thread:

Furniture: top Ikea, bottom Craftsman. Pegboard painted black behind

Build custom shelving with bumper protectors all around.

LED lights above

Wired for 220v

Polished epoxy with non-slip surface (sand mixed in)

Super happy with the end product.

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