Continuity Tester - What's Your Favorite?

u118224 · Apr 5, 2016

Weekend warrior here, I'm curious what the pros use. I know there's not much to them, but I want to get one soon. I'm looking at the OTC 3636. Thoughts?

lilredex · Apr 5, 2016

Got this one from Princess Auto, for my limited use.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00027FOPC/?tag=atomicindus08-20

RRmech · Apr 5, 2016

I just use an old analog VOM to test to do a quick continuity check.

Steve

theoldwizard1 · Apr 5, 2016

u118224 said:
Weekend warrior here, I'm curious what the pros use. I know there's not much to them, but I want to get one soon. I'm looking at the OTC 3636. Thoughts?

That is not a continuity tester. That is a low voltage test light.

Low voltage test lights come in 2 varieties. High impedance and low impedance. Stick with the low impedance type. You can use it to check most automotive electronic circuits because it will only draw about 250 mA. (Most computer controlled circuits are "ground switched" so connecting the clip to Vbatt and then probing the connector will show that the computer has commanded the wire to connect to ground AND there is actually enough current to drive the light which is usually enough to force the item being tested to operate.)

A continuity tester "injects" a small voltage into a wire THAT IS NOT CONNECT TO ANYTHING AT EACH END in order to determine if the wire is "continuous" (no breaks). Most DMM have a continuity test (sometimes called a diode test) build in with an audible tone.

theoldwizard1 · Apr 5, 2016

RRmech said:
I just use an old analog VOM to test to do a quick continuity check.

Steve

What is this "analog" you speak of ? :bounce:

Simpson 260

Katodog · Apr 5, 2016

I just use the continuity test feature on any digital multi-meter. Most have the feature, and most have a beep that sounds when you have good continuity, so you don't have to look at the screen.

Citation · Apr 5, 2016

Since I like a continuity checker on a multimeter that acts quickly and is latched I would say either a Fluke 101 or Greenlee DM 200.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JT5RUUU/?tag=atomicindus08-20
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003JZB4EE/?tag=atomicindus08-20

The Greenlee is a Brymen meter. Very good quality and safety features. The Fluke 101 is a Chinese market Fluke meter with a very limited feature set but Fluke level quality and safety. Both have fast acting continuity testers that are easy to hear and not scratchy. I bought a 200A off ebay for a song and really liked it (gave it to Dad). Other meters are cheaper and offer more features for the money but these are easy to recommend as quality models.

torqueman2002 · Apr 5, 2016

If you are working on cars/trucks with a computer, you want to use tools that have high impedance.

They will not load the circuit, they will not give erroneous readings, and they will not damage sensors/computer circuits.

GM required tools include a high impedance test light and Fluke 87-V Digital Multimeter, or equivalents. (Some analog meters are fine, I use a Triplett 630 with high impedance 20,000 OHMS/VDC | Citation's ^^ suggestions are good)

Can you fix a car without these tools?

Certainly, people do it all the time. However, there is a risk not using the proper tools.

Damaged computer circuits/sensors may not show symptoms immediately or consistently. Research and follow-up has documented many field cases that were 'impossible' to diagnose, but led back to unapproved testing/measurement practices.

Look at it this way. If you bought a home and discovered it had out-dated wiring (ie: knob and tube) in places, would you leave it?

Probably not, even-though the POs didn't have any problems with it.

anndel · Apr 5, 2016

I have a 10 year old Fluke 88 DVM or a 20 year old Wavetek DVM probe type meter. If not available then a test light will do.

egnorant · Apr 5, 2016

I always seem to eventually hook my cheap continuity testers to 12 volt and blowing the bulb. I just use my big Fluke on the bench and one of the cheap HF if I'm crawling around under stuff.

Would love a PowerProbe, but I'm cheap.

Bruce

Jim Diesel · Apr 5, 2016

Not cheap and offers heaps more functions, but i use a Fluke 115c

Aqua-Andy · Apr 5, 2016

Being a GM guy I have always used a Fluke 87 or a 12v test light. There are sometimes when you want to load a circuit when testing, the key is to know when to. Take a high impedance DVOM and try this. Set meter on 40v scale then attach one lead to the neg battery post. Hold the other lead in one hand and then touch the positive terminal on the battery with your other hand. Now look at what the display on the meter says. This is just something to think about when testing a circuit.

u118224 · Apr 6, 2016

Thanks everyone for your thoughts, I appreciate it!

theoldwizard1 · Apr 6, 2016

torqueman2002 said:
If you are working on cars/trucks with a computer, you want to use tools that have high impedance.

This is NOT a universal truth ! In some cases, yes. In most cases NO!

This is the reason the LoadPro was invented !

torqueman2002 said:
They will not load the circuit, they will not give erroneous readings, and they will not damage sensors/computer circuits.

But this is important in most cases !! A "traditional" test light (Eric O.'s "'scope on a rope") will only load the circuit about 250mA and 99.999% of computer circuits can drive that.

When a high impedance meter is used to test circuit in your house, they are very susceptible to "ghost voltage".

I'll bet more damage is done on vehicles by improper usage of a PowerProbe !

Aqua-Andy said:
Being a GM guy I have always used a Fluke 87 or a 12v test light. There are sometimes when you want to load a circuit when testing, the key is to know when to.

Roger that ! :thumbup:

Moose-LandTran · Apr 6, 2016

egnorant said:
Would love a PowerProbe, but I'm cheap.

Powerprobes are decent, and more useful for basic testing than anything intensive. But they're also lethal in the hands of many people, who frequently cook modules and components during testing.

bcradio · Apr 6, 2016

I just use my trusty 87v for continuity checks

theoldwizard1 · Apr 6, 2016

theoldwizard1 said:
u118224 said:

Weekend warrior here, I'm curious what the pros use. I know there's not much to them, but I want to get one soon. I'm looking at the OTC 3636. Thoughts?

Click to expand...

That is not a continuity tester. That is a low voltage test light.

A friend of a friend insisted that a non-contacting voltage present detector (a.k.a. "ringer") was a continuity tester.

torqueman2002 · Apr 6, 2016

theoldwizard1, wrote:
Quote:
<table border="0" cellpadding="6" cellspacing="0" width="100%"><tbody><tr><td class="alt2" style="border:1px inset"> Originally Posted by torqueman2002

If you are working on cars/trucks with a computer, you want to use tools that have high impedance.
</td></tr></tbody></table>
This is NOT a universal truth ! In some cases, yes. In most cases NO!

This is the reason the LoadPro was invented !

Quote:
<table border="0" cellpadding="6" cellspacing="0" width="100%"><tbody><tr><td class="alt2" style="border:1px inset"> Originally Posted by torqueman2002

They will not load the circuit, they will not give erroneous readings, and they will not damage sensors/computer circuits.
</td></tr></tbody></table>
But this is important in most cases !! A "traditional" test light (Eric O.'s "'scope on a rope") will only load the circuit about 250mA and 99.999% of computer circuits can drive that.
....
Quote:
<table border="0" cellpadding="6" cellspacing="0" width="100%"><tbody><tr><td class="alt2" style="border:1px inset"> Originally Posted by Aqua-Andy

Being a GM guy I have always used a Fluke 87 or a 12v test light. There are sometimes when you want to load a circuit when testing, the key is to know when to.
</td></tr></tbody></table>
Roger that ! :thumbup:

-------------------------------------------------------------------
I apologize if I did not make myself clear.

What I mean to convey is:

When working on sensitive computer circuits/components it is best practice to use manufacture specified tools/equipment and approved service procedures [or their equivalents].

"When measuring voltage, the Meter acts approximately like a 10 MΩ (10,000,000 Ω) impedance in parallel with the circuit. ... the error is negligible (0.1% or less) if the circuit impedance is 10 kΩ (10,000 Ω) or less." *

A high impedance test light will not over load a computer circuit, ["traditional" test light (Eric O.'s "'scope on a rope") will only load the circuit about 250mA and 99.999% of computer circuits can drive and is suitable for most circuits].

We are saying the same thing.

When computers were 1st introduced into cars, most test lights were not high impedance and would over-load a computer driver/component, causing damage.

I even saw some mechanics using a headlamp to test computer circuits.

I use a Fluke 87 II and a Snap-On CT4F Test Light, GM required tools when I got them in the 90's.

I agree, using a high impedance meter on 'high' VAC circuits will pick-up 'ghost' voltages.

The Fluke 114, 116 and 117 address this situation.**

:thumbup:

----------------------------------------------------------------------
*Fluke 80 Series V Users Manual » http://en-us.fluke.com/site/search/?selectedTab=manuals&searchKeyWords=fluke+87

**Fluke 114, 116 and 117 http://www.electricityforum.com/test-equipment/digital-multimeters.html

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a4246/4314662/

http://www.electricityforum.com/test-equipment/digital-multimeters.html

johninct · Apr 6, 2016

I have a home made one from the 1960's that is either a light or a buzzer mode. It has saved me soooo many times!!!!

WhiskeyRanger · Apr 6, 2016

Fluke T5-1000. I don't even know where my stand alone continuity tester is anymore.

torqueman2002 · Apr 7, 2016

I received a Tooltopia eMail 'flyer'.

Look what they are featuring.

$207.99 vs. $229.61 Amazon Prime
http://www.tooltopia.com/electronic-specialties-tmx-589.aspx

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Includes LOADpro - Loads the circuit to find corrosion and resistance in the wiring - fast diagnosis - OEM approved tool
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Continuity Tester - What's Your Favorite?

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