CrotalusAtrox
Well-known member
Not sure how stuck it is ,but sometimes just a bit of Kroil put in the right places does wonders.
VISE REPAIR 101 all vise repairs, lubricants, sources for parts and the tricks to fix
- Thread starter drivesitfar
- Start date
Not sure how stuck it is ,but sometimes just a bit of Kroil put in the right places does wonders.
Shiftless
Well-known member
Attachments
Last edited:
Fretters
Well-known member
Take the end cap off and remove the nut, if you can, and then just soak it in the diesel you have and try tapping the slide out from the rear with a piece of wood and a mallet/hammer.
thejudges69
Well-known member
So do I tap the pin out on the side? And this all come apart?
CRSINMICH
Well-known member
judge: I have a spindle and nut for a 9400. I have no idea if it will work on your vise but if you'd like to try they're yours for the cost of shipping. Unfortunately, I no longer have the collar. That went west some time ago. If you're interested send me a PM.
The pins you would need to punch out would be located on the rear of the main body next to the ends of the swivel clamp handles in your picture. In fact you can see one in your original picture. It's just in front of the fine groove that circles the rear end of the bullet. There should be one on the other side almost directly opposite that one. I said "punch out" but of course you'd have to punch them into the center of the bullet. Good luck.
The pins you would need to punch out would be located on the rear of the main body next to the ends of the swivel clamp handles in your picture. In fact you can see one in your original picture. It's just in front of the fine groove that circles the rear end of the bullet. There should be one on the other side almost directly opposite that one. I said "punch out" but of course you'd have to punch them into the center of the bullet. Good luck.
Attachments
Last edited:
thejudges69
Well-known member
michjacket
Well-known member
I posted a couple weeks ago about a frozen Parker 954 I picked up, that once freed up revealed a heavily pitted spindle. Many thanks to CRSINMICH for alerting me of a spindle on ebay, which I promptly purchased. It arrived today and I quickly made the swap. Edited to add: The new spindle did the trick - the vise operates much smoother.
First pic is the original spindle. The second and third are a side by side comparison of the two. The last is the assembled vise ready for use. Forgive my use of a simple bolt and washer functioning for the retaining collar but for now it serves its purpose.
Two questions - there is either a "7/2" or a "1/2" after the "954" cast into my vise. Is there any significance to that?
Second - what does everyone do to prevent surface rust on the sliding surfaces of their vises? I coated them with a film of marine grease but there was already some rust forming after just a couple weeks.
Thanks all!
First pic is the original spindle. The second and third are a side by side comparison of the two. The last is the assembled vise ready for use. Forgive my use of a simple bolt and washer functioning for the retaining collar but for now it serves its purpose.
Two questions - there is either a "7/2" or a "1/2" after the "954" cast into my vise. Is there any significance to that?
Second - what does everyone do to prevent surface rust on the sliding surfaces of their vises? I coated them with a film of marine grease but there was already some rust forming after just a couple weeks.
Thanks all!
Attachments
Last edited:
GETRIDAONE
Well-known member
The 954 1/2 is 4 1/2" jaw width. A swivel base model starts with 97. You need to use a wire wheel and get the rust off or it will just keep coming back. There are many rust preventive measures, Johnson's paste wax, boiled linseed oil, light machine oil, and my favorite
PB blaster. Rust will always win in the end.
PB blaster. Rust will always win in the end.
Fretters
Well-known member
For rust, wiping with an oily rag, linseed oil, lanolin, something beeswax based etc. As Get' mentions though, it's always a constant battle with rust. Controlling the environment they're in, as much as possible, is always your best course.
dkroth
Well-known member
80jeepCJ7
Member
thejudges69
Well-known member
Well. Here ya go. It took a little work with a piece of oak. We soaked it with PB and it was taking it right in so I figured we would try it and see what happens. We worked it in and out with a block on wood and here are the results. I wire wheeled the slide and it works like new. I'm super excited about this.
The date stamp says 10-89 also.
The date stamp says 10-89 also.
thejudges69
Well-known member
Ok, tell me about this vise. It is missing the clip that holds the spindle in. I never knew that til today when I took it apart to lube the screw and slide.
ssdave
Banned
Re-assembled the Columbian 504 1/2 today. Bought a 1/4" roll pin, cut it off to length, and it worked perfectly to hold in the spindle nut. Works nice, still will do some more cleanup and paint sometine in the future. Until then, it's quite usable. I started out with the first picture, and the final product is shown in the last picture, next to the 4" Nye pipe vise I did a few weeks ago. It's been a good spring for vises, I got the Nye for free, just had to electrostrip it, and got the Columbian for $30, just had to clean it up and replace the pin that holds the vise nut in place.
Attachments
Shiftless
Well-known member
thejudges69:
Glad to see that you got your vise unstuck.
Glad to see that you got your vise unstuck.
michjacket
Well-known member
Thanks GETRIDAONE!
michjacket
Well-known member
Thanks Fretters, dkroth, 80jeepCJ7 for the rust prevention tips. I've had humidity issues causing rust (not just on the vise) in my garage since day one. I’ve wondered if epoxying the cement floor would help at all.
As for moving to AZ, I already spend most of the winter there for work. It was nice at first with the scenery and weather, but that novelty has worn off for me. Although I just may visit to steal away some of your nice rust free cars!
As for moving to AZ, I already spend most of the winter there for work. It was nice at first with the scenery and weather, but that novelty has worn off for me. Although I just may visit to steal away some of your nice rust free cars!
Last edited:
Mark in Indiana
Well-known member
All,
I'm continuing on the restoration of my 1950s, 80mm FPU vise. I wanted to share the experience with removing the paint from the static & moving bodies:
First picture: I used Easy Off oven cleaner to remove the many coats of paint on a larger than normal surface area. I know a lot of guys have used this stuff, but this is the first time that I tried it.
Second picture: After 5 hours soaking, most of the paint was removed. Next time, I'll let it soak for 8 - 10 hours.
Third picture: After a little wire wheel time (a whole lot less time than if I didn't use the Easy Off), the bodies are ready for masking and priming. I will have to repair an edge of the stationary body before I go too far.
Happy Trails!
I'm continuing on the restoration of my 1950s, 80mm FPU vise. I wanted to share the experience with removing the paint from the static & moving bodies:
First picture: I used Easy Off oven cleaner to remove the many coats of paint on a larger than normal surface area. I know a lot of guys have used this stuff, but this is the first time that I tried it.
Second picture: After 5 hours soaking, most of the paint was removed. Next time, I'll let it soak for 8 - 10 hours.
Third picture: After a little wire wheel time (a whole lot less time than if I didn't use the Easy Off), the bodies are ready for masking and priming. I will have to repair an edge of the stationary body before I go too far.
Happy Trails!
Attachments
Evergreentree
Well-known member
Mark-I just got my first fpu-I thought the slide (jaw track?!)was busted, but it was just rough like yours, and original paint on the rough edges. Your second and 3rd picture show it.
Unless it is busted? Or just factory rough?
Unless it is busted? Or just factory rough?
Last edited:
Been reading GJ for a couple years and finally decided to try my first vise restoration. I picked up a little Columbian D 43 1/2 for $10 and my first attempt. I know it's not an especially desirable or valuable vise, but I figured I would start small before I move on to the bigger Rock Island I have waiting.
Very easy to disassemble until I got to the washer on the leadscrew. With a little patience and a little twisting, I finally got it off.
I threw together a quick electrolysis tank tonight after work to see what would happen. While it seemed to be working, I was only pulling a little under 2 amps on the 6A/12V setting on the charger. I used some small 17 gauge wire I had laying around, so I'll get something bigger and try again to see if I can pull more amps.
I look forward to reading more about all the vises here, and plan to post the before and after when I'm done.
Very easy to disassemble until I got to the washer on the leadscrew. With a little patience and a little twisting, I finally got it off.
I threw together a quick electrolysis tank tonight after work to see what would happen. While it seemed to be working, I was only pulling a little under 2 amps on the 6A/12V setting on the charger. I used some small 17 gauge wire I had laying around, so I'll get something bigger and try again to see if I can pull more amps.
I look forward to reading more about all the vises here, and plan to post the before and after when I'm done.
Attachments
Evergreentree
Well-known member
6-great idea with the crate! Welcome. I wouldn't think that's affecting anything?....
Keep the sacrificial anodes clean. every so often, shut down and wire wheel them. How much sodium corbonate , I'm guessing, in your water?
Keep the sacrificial anodes clean. every so often, shut down and wire wheel them. How much sodium corbonate , I'm guessing, in your water?
Outlawmws
Well-known member
pony, 2 amps is about normal (At least for me)
Thanks for the response. I'm using graphite rods for the anodes and about 10tbsp of sodium carbonate. I didn't feel comfortable leaving it plugged in overnight in my shed, so I'll try again tomorrow and see what happens. If I get a chance, I'll try and pick up some thicker wire and see if that makes a difference.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
get some rebar tie wire for running wire in the soup. (cheap, and its plain soft iron wire)
Mark in Indiana
Well-known member
Evergreentree,
With mine, on the static jaw body, beyond the spindle cover, along the slide, it is a casting issue.
When I examined mine, Seeing that the front edge of the spindle cover was chipped, I thought that the spindle cover was suppose to go all the way to the end. Thanks to some guidance from Drives, that's all it was. Otherwise, I would have to make & attach a sleeve.
I'll post pictures of my spindle cover repair in a future post.
Please post a picture of yours.
Attachments
Mark in Indiana
Well-known member
Drives,
Again, thanks for the guidance on my FCU vise spindle cover cover problem.
All,
Continuing on my FCU vise restoration. After pulling it apart, I found that the edge of the spindle cover on the static jaw body was broken. It's an easy fix with JB Weld, as seen with the following pictures:
First picture; Clean the area and tape the bottom to apply the JB Weld.
Second picture; JB Weld has been applied.
Third picture; After a day, remove the tape and sand off the excess JB Weld.
Normally, I preserve the blemishes that are on a old vise. This is an exception.
In my next repair post, I will show how I made a handle for the swivel base lock.
Again, thanks for the guidance on my FCU vise spindle cover cover problem.
All,
Continuing on my FCU vise restoration. After pulling it apart, I found that the edge of the spindle cover on the static jaw body was broken. It's an easy fix with JB Weld, as seen with the following pictures:
First picture; Clean the area and tape the bottom to apply the JB Weld.
Second picture; JB Weld has been applied.
Third picture; After a day, remove the tape and sand off the excess JB Weld.
Normally, I preserve the blemishes that are on a old vise. This is an exception.
In my next repair post, I will show how I made a handle for the swivel base lock.
Attachments
Last edited:
Evergreentree
Well-known member
Mark-I'll post mine when i can crawl down into dungeon in a bit.
Last edited:
Evergreentree
Well-known member
Evergreentree
Well-known member
CwazyWabbit
Well-known member
It looks like from the pictures that your jagged profile is exactly the same jaggedness as the other one. Perhaps the pattern also has the same jagged profile ...
Evergreentree
Well-known member
Hard to tell, but the dynamic is fully extended and the main screw almost off the nut. Short a turn or two. Definetely doesn't effect any performance.
So this is poor casting? (Paint is on the edges)
So this is poor casting? (Paint is on the edges)
Mark in Indiana
Well-known member
Evergreentree & All,
Looks like the FPU vises have given us an enigma wrapped in a mystery, concerning the spindle cover:
The first picture is of Drive's vise that he sent me. It appears to have a clean cut edge, with original paint.
The second picture is of Evergreentree's vise that has the original paint on the jagged edge.
The third picture is my vise. There were several coats of paint on it, so I couldn't say if the original paint was on the jagged edge. The jagged edge on mine looks similar to Evergreentree's vise. However, (my guess) it looks like it was hit with a chisel.
Maybe during the post-cast finishing process, they just busted off any extra iron on the end. It would be cool if there was a Bison-Bial retiree here, that could answer this.
Looks like the FPU vises have given us an enigma wrapped in a mystery, concerning the spindle cover:
The first picture is of Drive's vise that he sent me. It appears to have a clean cut edge, with original paint.
The second picture is of Evergreentree's vise that has the original paint on the jagged edge.
The third picture is my vise. There were several coats of paint on it, so I couldn't say if the original paint was on the jagged edge. The jagged edge on mine looks similar to Evergreentree's vise. However, (my guess) it looks like it was hit with a chisel.
Maybe during the post-cast finishing process, they just busted off any extra iron on the end. It would be cool if there was a Bison-Bial retiree here, that could answer this.
Attachments
CwazyWabbit
Well-known member
Just to add to the FPU cover pics here's mine in unrestored and badly needing a clean state.
Finished up my first ever vise restoration today. Nothing special on the vise. Just wanted to experiment with electrolysis and see if I could make it look better. It will definitely be mounted to a bench and used.
I got a little impatient on waiting for it to dry and need to do some touch ups, but overall I'm happy for a day in the electrolysis tank. Next up is a Rock Island that I'll take a little more time with.
I got a little impatient on waiting for it to dry and need to do some touch ups, but overall I'm happy for a day in the electrolysis tank. Next up is a Rock Island that I'll take a little more time with.
Attachments
jakemac
Well-known member
OK guys, need a little help here.
I'm working on a Long-C Craftsman(Reed) #5181 (still can't find it in the catalogs). It has the Reed split-ring collar (that came out easily), but the bit I'm having problems with is the adjustable pin for the main nut. (pic 1) I can't get it out. Is it press fit, or threaded in ?
I tried to knock it out from the bottom, but I'm hesitant to hit it too hard. I've been soaking it with PB Blaster for a few days, but it hasn't penetrated through the hole yet. Before I start wailing on it (I need a larger punch), I'd like to make sure that that's the proper method.
This is the first one I've tried to remove, I'm just looking for some confirmation so I don't break anything.
I'm working on a Long-C Craftsman(Reed) #5181 (still can't find it in the catalogs). It has the Reed split-ring collar (that came out easily), but the bit I'm having problems with is the adjustable pin for the main nut. (pic 1) I can't get it out. Is it press fit, or threaded in ?
I tried to knock it out from the bottom, but I'm hesitant to hit it too hard. I've been soaking it with PB Blaster for a few days, but it hasn't penetrated through the hole yet. Before I start wailing on it (I need a larger punch), I'd like to make sure that that's the proper method.
This is the first one I've tried to remove, I'm just looking for some confirmation so I don't break anything.
Attachments
jakemac
Well-known member
I picked up a 4" York swivel vise at the flea market recently. I thought it was missing a piece from the iside of the base because when the swivel locks were loosened the vise body would slide around all over the place, not just rotate in a circle. You can see it sliding almost off the base in this photo:
Before buying it I flipped it over and saw the 3/4" centre hole in the vise body and the 3" hole in the base and thought I could just turn a disc in the lathe or weld some washers together for a quick fix.
When I got it home I found the 3/4" hole in the body was not on centre. After lining everything up I traced the 3" circle onto the body with a pencil on centre. You can see it here:
I cut a 3" circle in some 1/2" plate, turned it to a slight taper on the edge then drilled and tapped some 1/4" UNF threads into he body and screwed the 3" guide plate to the vise body to keep it centred.
The vise works a whole lot better now that it doesn't slip slop and slide all over the place when unlocking it to swivel.
Before buying it I flipped it over and saw the 3/4" centre hole in the vise body and the 3" hole in the base and thought I could just turn a disc in the lathe or weld some washers together for a quick fix.
When I got it home I found the 3/4" hole in the body was not on centre. After lining everything up I traced the 3" circle onto the body with a pencil on centre. You can see it here:
I cut a 3" circle in some 1/2" plate, turned it to a slight taper on the edge then drilled and tapped some 1/4" UNF threads into he body and screwed the 3" guide plate to the vise body to keep it centred.
The vise works a whole lot better now that it doesn't slip slop and slide all over the place when unlocking it to swivel.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Jake, I'm pretty sure that is a press fit.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
nice fix ToolHound!
jakemac
Well-known member
Thanks Outlaw, you were right.
Propped it up on a more solid wood platform, grabbed a junk socket to fit the hole, and gave the BFH a workout. It finally popped out, but it had a very tight fit. Soaking in SG now.