NotOrganized
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 18, 2014
- Messages
- 223
Lighting Choice; LED High Bay
- Thread starter revamped
- Start date
I plan on running the hooks into the trusses and not using the chains. I suspect I can put a 3/8 12/2 stranded armored cable with some snap fittings and only have about 8" for each light. I will bend the hooks to collapse them after install just in case so they cannot lift out of the hooks.
My interior has 3/4:12 scissor trusses so I made boxes to mount my high bay lights so that they would be parallel to the floor.
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Radix2
Well-known member
I went with cords and hung by either the wire bales directly or short chains (5/12pitch on the sides). I found that the cords, outlets were less expensive than SO assemblies and it is a heck of a lot easier to install.
Trying to work in those attached bracket boxes is about impossible overhead and around the width of the lamp and against the ceiling. And service or cleaning is a snap - unplug and Unclip. For the dimming I used the wago luminaire connectors.
Trying to work in those attached bracket boxes is about impossible overhead and around the width of the lamp and against the ceiling. And service or cleaning is a snap - unplug and Unclip. For the dimming I used the wago luminaire connectors.
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I am also using the luminaire connectors on mine. I have not installed my boxes yet as I am still working on the interior. I am hoping to find a way to hang the light much like you would a ceiling fan for the final connections. At least that is what I have in my head. Who knows if that will work in practice.
Double J
Well-known member
Nice job NebrTd. I have the 95W Aleo's too. That's what I "wanted" to do but decided on this route so it will self-level and since all my wiring will be ran in conduit.
I made a mock ceiling with the pitch I have to see what adjustments needed to be made. Good thing too. Even though it self-levels to the floor, I didn't take into account that the luminaire weight was not evenly distributed front to back (long ways). The ballast is at one end, so it lifted up on the light end.
Quick fix was to move the ballast to the center of luminaire. There was even a hole in the exact spot needed to even it out and to secure it down with one screw. The U-shaped bracket is just a 4X4 post bracket.
Are you running a dimmer and if so, which model?
I made a mock ceiling with the pitch I have to see what adjustments needed to be made. Good thing too. Even though it self-levels to the floor, I didn't take into account that the luminaire weight was not evenly distributed front to back (long ways). The ballast is at one end, so it lifted up on the light end.
Quick fix was to move the ballast to the center of luminaire. There was even a hole in the exact spot needed to even it out and to secure it down with one screw. The U-shaped bracket is just a 4X4 post bracket. Are you running a dimmer and if so, which model?
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Radix2
Well-known member
Glad to hear it. It looks like a lot of outlets are d the outside of your balcony.. what is going on there? Neon sign collection?
Looking good .
That is exactly what those are for! Nailed it! I put those on an individual switch. I plan to find/restore old lighted signs and sell/replace them often once I learn to do it properly. The front facing 1/2 wall will have deer/elk mounts and the side will have the signs. I have a truckload of old barn wood ready to hang on the 1/2 wall once I pass inspection... I don't think I will pass without it being fire retardant.
I think he was talking about saving $ for a car lift. lol.
Double J
Well-known member
Finally got the majority of the electric done and all the lights hung. I couldn't be happier with the light output of the 95W Aleos (X 16). Good thing I put them on the dimmer Radix2 recommended a few posts back (Cooper SF-10-W). The combo works great! They dim down next to nothing and at full tilt I have daylight inside. 
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Radix2
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Finally got the majority of the electric done and all the lights hung. I couldn't be happier with the light output of the 95W Aleos (X 16). Good thing I put them on the dimmer Radix2 recommended a few posts back (Cooper SF-10-W). The combo works great! They dim down next to nothing and a full tilt I have daylight inside.
Looks great, I almost think that this thread should be a sticky for buildings over 14 feet, these led high output panels are a great solution and the prices are now so reasonable that it doesn't make any sense to be installing 20+ old style fixtures with retrofits as the sticky up top talks about. They are fine for low ceiling 2 car garages, but for bigger spaces these seem the clear choice.
The fact that these put out a ton of light but are still low glare is just a superb set up.
I am now looking at doing my workshop area, and at 9.5 feet the choice is between led strips and the edge lit 2x4 panels. Even there, it is looking like I need about 6000 lumens per fixture and still need a ton of them.
Iron-Iceberg
Well-known member
Hi guys I thought I’d jump in here with my shop lighting. First I’d like to thank all the posters here, lots of good info I would have never found on my own.
First a little back story. About 7 years ago I installed 20 of these T8 lights from Home Depot. I didn’t have a light chart at the time and just hung a few to get the spread I wanted and they have been ok. So now the ballests have started to die. I replaced a few, but being 15’ - 20” up with all my stuff down below is a real pain. I started looking at replacing them with LED bulbs but if you can see the yellowing on the housing in the pictures and the overall flimsy build of the light I don’t really feel good about using them.
On to the future. After reading this thread I ordered up one of the James lights for a test.
http://www.ledlightingwholesaleinc.com/James-High-Bay-4-Foot-225-Watt-p/zy-h3-225w.htm
I went with the 4’ lights as I am already set up with hangers and wire for this and this will make an easy swap out. The build of these lights are way better then the old ones, much more sturdy and solid feeling. Here are a couple pictures of the lights next to each other. The lights are noticeably brighter. I went with the 4K and as you can see the light is a more blue then the T8s. I like it, I do a lot of detail work and the brighter the better. Looking at the pictures I noticed something that I didn’t notice in the shop. The T8 fixtures lit the ceiling up also. How ever the LEDs hit the wall wall little higher and that area of the floor is defiantly brighter.
I will get a dimmer so that I can adjust them down if needed when they are all up.
Do to the cost I plan on replacing half of the lights now and swapping the old working ballasts into the leftovers.
Again thanks for this thread and hopefully this could help some one else out.
First a little back story. About 7 years ago I installed 20 of these T8 lights from Home Depot. I didn’t have a light chart at the time and just hung a few to get the spread I wanted and they have been ok. So now the ballests have started to die. I replaced a few, but being 15’ - 20” up with all my stuff down below is a real pain. I started looking at replacing them with LED bulbs but if you can see the yellowing on the housing in the pictures and the overall flimsy build of the light I don’t really feel good about using them.
On to the future. After reading this thread I ordered up one of the James lights for a test.
http://www.ledlightingwholesaleinc.com/James-High-Bay-4-Foot-225-Watt-p/zy-h3-225w.htm
I went with the 4’ lights as I am already set up with hangers and wire for this and this will make an easy swap out. The build of these lights are way better then the old ones, much more sturdy and solid feeling. Here are a couple pictures of the lights next to each other. The lights are noticeably brighter. I went with the 4K and as you can see the light is a more blue then the T8s. I like it, I do a lot of detail work and the brighter the better. Looking at the pictures I noticed something that I didn’t notice in the shop. The T8 fixtures lit the ceiling up also. How ever the LEDs hit the wall wall little higher and that area of the floor is defiantly brighter.
I will get a dimmer so that I can adjust them down if needed when they are all up.
Do to the cost I plan on replacing half of the lights now and swapping the old working ballasts into the leftovers.
Again thanks for this thread and hopefully this could help some one else out.
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whitemamba
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- Joined
- Jun 11, 2014
- Messages
- 92
Anyone want to take a look at my lighting plan shop layout in layout thread? The current best buy high bay it is calling for 21 and they are 84.99 each right now. I'm not sure how to use or find program that shows lighting levels where, any help would be awesome.
Also should i set these all right at 16ft on chains or should i be concerned with losing any head room above the 16ft mark?
Also should i set these all right at 16ft on chains or should i be concerned with losing any head room above the 16ft mark?
whitemamba
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2014
- Messages
- 92
Current pic of inside 
jb garage
Well-known member
I am just now finding this thread after looking for lights for my 17' garage for a few weeks. This thread rocks thanks to all that posted in it. I am now considering 6 of revamped's 165W James lights. They put out way more light than the 72w I was considering but with a low voltage dimmer it seems I can have the best of both worlds. I may step down and go with the 110w version. Not sure. My floor space is 21x24. My wiring is in including low voltage, I just need lights.
jb garage
Well-known member
To be sure can you surface mount the James 2' lights or do they need to be hung from the v-hooks? I have a flat drywall ceiling.
Platonic Solid
Well-known member
jb garage - This thread may help you. The James fixtures are not available with surface mounting brackets.
jb garage
Well-known member
Thanks platonic i posted to that thread.
If one does go with vhooks, can revamped or anyone else show a picture of how they attach to the ceiling? Just eye bolts or ...? Then you need the wire protectors and I guess a box to attach those to? Right now I just have the 110 and lv coming thru the ceiling so I know the surface mount would be an easy finish. I'm not sure how to finish it out with the vhooks?
If one does go with vhooks, can revamped or anyone else show a picture of how they attach to the ceiling? Just eye bolts or ...? Then you need the wire protectors and I guess a box to attach those to? Right now I just have the 110 and lv coming thru the ceiling so I know the surface mount would be an easy finish. I'm not sure how to finish it out with the vhooks?
Thanks platonic i posted to that thread.
If one does go with vhooks, can revamped or anyone else show a picture of how they attach to the ceiling? Just eye bolts or ...? Then you need the wire protectors and I guess a box to attach those to? Right now I just have the 110 and lv coming thru the ceiling so I know the surface mount would be an easy finish. I'm not sure how to finish it out with the vhooks?
It's an easy install with eyebolt into the trusses. I used about 14" of armored cable for power and 18ga cl3 for lv. Inspector was pleased.
Install one wire bracket through the eye and let the light hang while you wire it. Then lift the other end into place and slide the wire bracket through the eyebolt and attach to the light.
Not a flush install, but you get the cooling you need and only a few inches lower.
jb garage
Well-known member
thanks for that revamped, I appreciate it
jb garage
Well-known member
I ended up going with the alphalites because they had a surface mounting kit available. I was a little concerned with heat so planned to shim them off the ceiling by a 1/4" but was pleasantly surprised to find the surface mount kit does that it self. Will attempt to ad some pictures.
https://www.ledlightingwholesaleinc.com/EHB2-13-p/ehb2-110.htm
https://www.ledlightingwholesaleinc.com/EHB2-13-p/ehb2-110.htm
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jb garage
Well-known member
jb garage
Well-known member
heres one I have on my phone. Im really happy with these. They are clean and bright! I only went with the 110w. But they have more than enough light with 6 of them. So glad I did the dimmer. For everyday leave them around 60% bright is perfect and then can crank them up when its time to work...
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brianpgriset
Well-known member
Digging this back up. Question. I am about to mount 15 12k lumen high bays in my shop, 30x60x14, in a 3x5 pattern. The lights in question are 2ftx1ft LED high bays similar to many in this thread. Is there a "correct" orientation? By that I mean should the long end of the lamp be parallel or perpendicular to the wall? From what I can tell it wont matter since there is no reflector but I wasnt sure. The lights I bought have a frosted lens as well.
Beal095
Well-known member
Use the free Sylvania light program. Find a rectangular fixture similar to your and put them in the room. You can rotate them each way and see which shadows or overlap is better or if you need more fixtures.
There's no "correct" way. Most people would run them lengthwise, same as the building, but lighting-wise it wont make any difference.
CD