Outlawmws
Well-known member
Heck, its not that hard to miss something and be disappointed when they are bare steel and rust.. 
VISE REPAIR 101 all vise repairs, lubricants, sources for parts and the tricks to fix
- Thread starter drivesitfar
- Start date
gman, I must admit my post reads as ambiguous. What I meant by not being disappointed was that there is always something under the paint that I don't like!
gman007
Well-known member
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thin_concrete
Well-known member
Is there a place to get replacement jaws for a Superior #3? Maybe a handle too? Dr. Scott - do you have a website?
KMScott
Well-known member
Sorry, no Superior jaws on either of my websites. If you post or PM me with jaw spec:s maybe I have something close that can be modified. Websites are listed in my signature View Public Profile.
thin_concrete
Well-known member
Thanks - I’ll take measurements when I get home and send you a PM. It’s funny that I had both of those sites already bookmarked.
A couple of reminders. Wilton Base assemblies can be used on certain model Craftsman/Columbian models, with the right configuration. Shown here is a 205M3 and a 10205, and a smaller Craftsman. Also. keep in mind that if you have a classic Chicago Bullet ( in this case 1951) the newer base assembly will work giving it a 360 turn.
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KMScott
Well-known member
Great info autopts. Everyone should take notes, I know I did. Thanks for sharing.
trijeff
Well-known member
yes excellent info Nick. Kevin, how about putting it in the notes column in the vise spreadsheet? Just an idea
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I have a USA made Wilton mechanics (non-bullet) vise I'm just digging into-- it's a bit tired and neglected but fully functional. One problem-- there's a hairline crack from the center of the anvil to the rear. I'm surprised at how thin the metal is on the anvil to be honest but there's no excuse for doing what the previous owner did, when you see the divot they put in there.
I'm thinking of drilling a small relief hole at the end of the crack, then getting my dremel out with a cutoff wheel and chasing the crack to the rear, then mig welding and using a flap disc to smooth. The mig is all I have, and zero experience with brazing.
Not intending to use the anvil after I'm done but wanted thoughts on whether this will do for a repair or if there's another approach I should consider. Advice welcome.
I'm thinking of drilling a small relief hole at the end of the crack, then getting my dremel out with a cutoff wheel and chasing the crack to the rear, then mig welding and using a flap disc to smooth. The mig is all I have, and zero experience with brazing.
Not intending to use the anvil after I'm done but wanted thoughts on whether this will do for a repair or if there's another approach I should consider. Advice welcome.
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Ststephen7
Well-known member
I found brazing to be much easier than I thought it would (could) be. I watched 12 (or more) videos on brazing before doing anything. Then I practiced on a couple of cast pipe fittings.
Finally I brazed up my repair, and I could not be happier with the result.
I think you should try brazing... If I can do it pretty much anyone can.
Finally I brazed up my repair, and I could not be happier with the result.
I think you should try brazing... If I can do it pretty much anyone can.
Nice work! Still don't know whether brazing, among other things, would be overkill for my scenario. I'm open to suggestions however.
Ststephen7
Well-known member
Hey guys, I could use some advice.
I found this very nice Craftsman 5176 locally. I intend to clean it up and resell it, just to put all of my cards on the table here.
While it is in very good condition, it has been sitting around in a garage and so it is rusty on the bare steel.
I would normally take apart a vise and use a small electrolysis tank to remove the rust, HOWEVER... I believe that will not be great for (what I think is the original) the paint, right?
And... what will that do to the badge? If it's going to damage the badge I don't have to use the electrolysis... What else can/should I use?
Or should I just remove the badge, and completely strip and repaint it?
Thanks,
Steve
I found this very nice Craftsman 5176 locally. I intend to clean it up and resell it, just to put all of my cards on the table here.
While it is in very good condition, it has been sitting around in a garage and so it is rusty on the bare steel.
I would normally take apart a vise and use a small electrolysis tank to remove the rust, HOWEVER... I believe that will not be great for (what I think is the original) the paint, right?
And... what will that do to the badge? If it's going to damage the badge I don't have to use the electrolysis... What else can/should I use?
Or should I just remove the badge, and completely strip and repaint it?
Thanks,
Steve
Hey guys, I could use some advice.
I found this very nice Craftsman 5176 locally. I intend to clean it up and resell it, just to put all of my cards on the table here.
While it is in very good condition, it has been sitting around in a garage and so it is rusty on the bare steel.
I would normally take apart a vise and use a small electrolysis tank to remove the rust, HOWEVER... I believe that will not be great for (what I think is the original) the paint, right?
And... what will that do to the badge? If it's going to damage the badge I don't have to use the electrolysis... What else can/should I use?
Or should I just remove the badge, and completely strip and repaint it?
Thanks,
Steve
If it was me, I would remove badge, electrolysis, repaint, then reattach badge
1970novaguy
New member
I have a 614 athol need center screw, will any other screws fit do not want a foreign screw thanks
How do you get the spindle out of a reed vise - specifically the 103-1/2R but thy all look the same. There's a set screw on the side which I removed and it looks like another flat blade type screw head underneath but the slot - if it is a slot - is too shallow to engage a screwdriver. The spindle seems to have a sort of castellated collar which I assume is locked by whatever this set screw arrangement is.
Maui
Well-known member
Your Reed likely has a split collar that has to be unscrewed in order to remove the lead screw and handle. You can unscrew it by using a small punch and hammer. Lightly tap the collar in one of the slots with the punch to unscrew it. Once you get it started you will probably be able to remove it by hand. Be careful that half of the split collar does’t fall to the floor when you finally get the last bit of thread unscrewed.
Maui
Maui
Outlawmws
Well-known member
IIR, I think there is a set screw on the split collar as well?
mikeswrenches
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I recently refinished a 204 1/2R that was quite rusty, but the threaded split collar wasn’t frozen. Removal of the set screw on the side will allow the "split collar" to be removed. The single set screw is all that keeps it from rotating. In a previous post a member suggested putting a screw driver into one of the 4 grooves on the front face and using the vise handle against it to turn it out. A little of your favorite penetrate would probably help. Good Luck!
Mike
mikeswrenches
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Glad to hear it worked!
Question for all you vise experts,
I recently picked up a Wilton 654 on Craigslist. It had a damaged spindle, so I bought a replacement spindle assembly. I can't figure out how to install the c-clip / washer / spring assembly on the spindle. The picture from Wilton's web site shows the spring and clip on the outside of the dynamic jaw, but I'm pretty sure it goes on the inside. But, how do I compress the spring so that I can install the c-clip?
Thanks,
Ben
I recently picked up a Wilton 654 on Craigslist. It had a damaged spindle, so I bought a replacement spindle assembly. I can't figure out how to install the c-clip / washer / spring assembly on the spindle. The picture from Wilton's web site shows the spring and clip on the outside of the dynamic jaw, but I'm pretty sure it goes on the inside. But, how do I compress the spring so that I can install the c-clip?
Thanks,
Ben
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
Get some tubing (Conduit?) that slips over the screw and can push on the washer on the spring.
Cut the end so about 1/2 is missing and index it so the open side is giving access
Compress the spring and using needle nose, start the C-Clip.
Keeping pressure on the C-Clip, back the tube of adn complete the C-Clip installation.
Cut the end so about 1/2 is missing and index it so the open side is giving access
Compress the spring and using needle nose, start the C-Clip.
Keeping pressure on the C-Clip, back the tube of adn complete the C-Clip installation.
454ragtop
Well-known member
^ I would, probably cut down on wear from the screw rubbing on the dynamic jaw.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
I applaud and appreciate others like me who will not accept this foreign low quality junk. 
454ragtop
Well-known member
Is your screw retained by a little clip and screw inside the sliding jaw? I have a broken 4" Athol swivel jaw here I'm going to part out. I have a 614 user on my bench, tried the screw in the 614 nut today, works fine. The "meatball" is a little different, but I doubt if that matters. The handle on the screw looks shop made, couple nuts welded on a rod. Pic here.
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Shiftless
Well-known member
Does anybody have one of the fancy cast iron wingnuts for the post under this vise? It’s a Reed 31. I have the mounting post, not pictured, it’s 3/4-10 thread size.
I rescued this vise from a dumpster in my neighborhood. It was rusty and seized. This was my first “soak the whole thing in Evaporust” project. After soaking, scrubbing clean under running water with a small brass wire brush, I dried it off with a heat gun. Then I rubbed on a very thin coat of flat paint followed by BLO. No paint on the swivel base, the handle, or the slide.
I highlighted the lettering by sanding with a sanding sponge exposing fresh metal.
I rescued this vise from a dumpster in my neighborhood. It was rusty and seized. This was my first “soak the whole thing in Evaporust” project. After soaking, scrubbing clean under running water with a small brass wire brush, I dried it off with a heat gun. Then I rubbed on a very thin coat of flat paint followed by BLO. No paint on the swivel base, the handle, or the slide.
I highlighted the lettering by sanding with a sanding sponge exposing fresh metal.
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Ridjobradi
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This is a vise I picked up on a trip to DC. It wasn't in bad shape to start with. I soaked it in Evaporust, before prepping for paint. I used a Rustoleum paint for the body and then dipped a foam brush in the small can to do the letters. I gave it a friend who built a new garage. I was worried he would buy in import and I didn't want see an import vise when I visited. 
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va.grouseman
Well-known member
Ridjobradi, you're a good friend.---We all should be so lucky.
Shiftless
Well-known member
Ridjobrady:
You treat your friends quite well!
That’s a very nice color you selected. What’s the name of it?
I noticed that it is latex paint. I have a few questions...hope you don’t mind.
Did you use a special primer? It that variety of paint OK for direct to metal? Maybe you didn’t sand too much before the fresh paint. What about durability? If you’ve used it before, what about ease of cleaning?
You treat your friends quite well!
That’s a very nice color you selected. What’s the name of it?
I noticed that it is latex paint. I have a few questions...hope you don’t mind.
Did you use a special primer? It that variety of paint OK for direct to metal? Maybe you didn’t sand too much before the fresh paint. What about durability? If you’ve used it before, what about ease of cleaning?
454ragtop
Well-known member
Shiftless
Well-known member
Thanks but that piece of hardware is 8 inches across and costs $25 plus more for shipping. I’ll keep looking for a vintage piece. I have a 3/4-10 hex nut to use in the meantime. This vise will be for display only. I have to drill big holes in the shelf to mount it with the post. I might just skip that and let it sit on the shelf with all the others keeping the post separate but nearby in case somebody in the future wants to put it to use.
Ridjobradi
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Shiftless - It was a Rustoleum spray paint with primer for the body. I dont remember the name of the color, but it was off the shelf at my local big orange store. It will be a week or more, before I'm home to get the name of the color. I do like how the color looks on the vise.
The latex was just for the raised lettering. It was applied after the spray paint had cured for a couple of months. The surface was cleaned and sanded, before painting with a foam brush.
It has held up well for the last two years, but it gets infrequent use in a climate controlled shop. He does mostly large scale model railroad work.
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The latex was just for the raised lettering. It was applied after the spray paint had cured for a couple of months. The surface was cleaned and sanded, before painting with a foam brush.
It has held up well for the last two years, but it gets infrequent use in a climate controlled shop. He does mostly large scale model railroad work.
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Shiftless
Well-known member
Thanks for the answers. That makes sense.
That color might be Rustoleum satin sage. I bought a can of it a few months ago but haven’t used it yet. Looked like a nice color for a vise.
That color might be Rustoleum satin sage. I bought a can of it a few months ago but haven’t used it yet. Looked like a nice color for a vise.
chrisnazzy
Well-known member
I really like that color too! Very industrial 50's/60's. I painted my late model Parker 433 1/2A Rustoleum Gloss Sage Green. I'd guess that was the same color but can't tell if it was satin or gloss.
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Ridjobradi
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Satin Sage was the color.
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OP
drivesitfar
Well-known member
ACE: first of all welcome to GJ cause it sounds like you have skills you can pass on and secondly thanks for finding that old post and answering the question regarding sand blasting these old cast iron vises.