Craftsman Drill Press

~Loctite 609) to aid in securing the hub to the pinion shaft.
I missed the "securing the hub to the pinion shaft" Iwas thinking you meant the pin only.
Yes, I think between the short pin, and the 609, it should hold nicely.

bubinga said:

~Loctite 609) to aid in securing the hub to the pinion shaft.
I missed the "securing the hub to the pinion shaft" Iwas thinking you meant the pin only.
Yes, I think between the short pin, and the 609, it should hold nicely.

Click to expand...

Yes.... I may also use a little on the pin too, though.

I also discovered my "old" bottle of 609 had expired (according to the date on the bottle) and had thickened up. DAMN. Had to buy another bottle today. I swear it wasn't $19 last time I bought it. Precious stuff! Oh well, I will likely use a bit of it on the spindle pulley bearings as well.

Bill C said:

Yes.... I may also use a little on the pin too, though.

I also discovered my "old" bottle of 609 had expired (according to the date on the bottle) and had thickened up. DAMN. Had to buy another bottle today. I swear it wasn't $19 last time I bought it. Precious stuff! Oh well, I will likely use a bit of it on the spindle pulley bearings as well.

Click to expand...

oh for sure.

Well, I ended up doing a combination of the things discussed to mate my original pinion shaft to the mismatched feed hub.
I decided to not shorten the knurled pin.
What I ended up doing was:

1) Aligning the good hole of the replacement hub with a hole in the pinion shaft and partially inserting the pin to hold the assembly together.
2) Using a small carbide bur (1/8" diameter) I carefully oblonged the mismatched hole in the hub to match the original pinion shaft hole.
3) I checked the pin clearance of the newly oblong'd hole and verified everything was a good fit.
4) I applied Loctite 609 to the hub and pinion shaft. I then quickly & carefully re-fit them together. I had very little time to align the holes before the parts began to set-up and become nonadjustable. This was probably the most stressful part.
6) I also applied a little Loctite 609 to the pin and tapped it into place. Of course, don't forget to re-install the quill return spring before you completely insert the knurled pin.

And the end result:





I am sure I never want to disassemble this again. I have a feeling the Loctite 609 has essentially fused these two components together permanently.

Nicely done, Bill!

I hate to ask at this point, but did you try the hub 180 degrees the other way as well? (I may have missed that comment)

Another suggestion is to use a dab of JB weld in the crescent moon hole to add support. its should not have enough surface area to be a strong bond for later removal but will add torsional support, hub to pin.

Maybe clean the area with denatured alcohol, then carefully "contaminate" the shaft (but not the hub & pin) so the bond wont stuck to the shaft. (Fine artist brush and a light grease like gun grease or dielectric grease? You don't need much...)

For future reference, you could have filled the offset hole with JB W prior to drilling, and cleared the shaft hole with the right size drill, then positioned and drilled.

Outlawmws said:

I hate to ask at this point, but did you try the hub 180 degrees the other way as well? (I may have missed that comment)

Another suggestion is to use a dab of JB weld in the crescent moon hole to add support. its should not have enough surface area to be a strong bond for later removal but will add torsional support, hub to pin.

Maybe clean the area with denatured alcohol, then carefully "contaminate" the shaft (but not the hub & pin) so the bond wont stuck to the shaft. (Fine artist brush and a light grease like gun grease or dielectric grease? You don't need much...)

For future reference, you could have filled the offset hole with JB W prior to drilling, and cleared the shaft hole with the right size drill, then positioned and drilled.

Click to expand...

Yea, I tried both orientations of the shaft and it really didn’t make any difference. This particular hub was drilled significantly off center and also a little bit crooked fore-aft axially. My pinion, however, was drilled almost perfectly centered. The hub I’m using must have come from a Friday-built Drill Press.
As for the JB weld, from an aesthetic point, it might be marginally better, but in this case, with the use of retaining compound (609) and the already tight fit of this hub/pinion, I don’t see any real improvements in strength or durability. If it ever does come apart, I will just redrill the whole assembly 90deg off and re-pin it with a steel dowel or spring pin.

I wasn't thinking aesthetics, but axial loading during drilling.

If the JB weld is on the unloaded side, then minimal help.

If its on the loaded side, where the hub is putting pressure on the pin on one side only, it could fail over time. The JB weld would fill that gap and provide more support.

The lock-tite may be great for keeping the hub from walking off, but this is essentially a press and you have a lot of leverage when drilling, and ALL of it loads that pin...

Outlawmws said:

I wasn't thinking aesthetics, but axial loading during drilling.

If the JB weld is on the unloaded side, then minimal help.

If its on the loaded side, where the hub is putting pressure on the pin on one side only, it could fail over time. The JB weld would fill that gap and provide more support.

The lock-tite may be great for keeping the hub from walking off, but this is essentially a press and you have a lot of leverage when drilling, and ALL of it loads that pin...

Click to expand...

Unfortunately, the “open” end of the oblong hole is towards the direction of load. Maybe I will fill the void with JB Weld as added insurance. A belt and suspenders approach couldn’t hurt. The shear strength of that 609 retaining compound is very high already. Plus the pin in single shear adds more... but JB weld is free since I have some on-hand and only takes a few minute to apply. Soooo....

Alright.... Outlawmws talked me into it. I filled the "extra" hole with some JB-Weld to provide a load bearing area for the pin during drilling operations. Per his recommendation, I carefully applied a very small amount of grease to the exposed side of the pin and the exposed portion of the pinion shaft. The hope/intention here is keep the JB-Weld from bonding tightly to either the pin or the shaft, in the event that the assembly needs to be taken apart.

Here is the result:



I also spent some time this weekend finishing up the polishing/buffing of the feed handles/knobs, lock levers and tension adjustment knob. Those with a good eye will notice the "FrankLee" special quill lock-knob also.



For all these exposed metal pieces, after I buff them on the polishing wheel, I have been topping them off with two products I really like: Metal Wax and JetSeal109. I give each of these metal bits a final polish w/ the Metal Wax and then seal them (to prevent oxidation, etc.) with the JetSeal 109.



At this point, all I really have left to do is purchase some new bearings, clean up the drill press column and service the motor .
I am really not looking forward to cleaning up the column.

Bill C when you buff those metal parts do you use a buffing wheel ?
Yours came out great. Some day I would like to do mine.

smalltown said:

Bill C when you buff those metal parts do you use a buffing wheel ?
Yours came out great. Some day I would like to do mine.

Click to expand...

Yes. I use a couple different types of buffing wheels that I have adapted to my Craftsman 1/2HP block grinder. I primarily use a coated Sisal wheel (with black emery compound) for heavy cutting on steels or alum, a spiral sewn cotton wheel (with white rouge or Tripoli) for getting a nice shine on most metals, and a loose center sewn cotton wheel (with jewelers/red rouge) for a mirror shine on softer metals. For these drill press parts I am not going any further than the spiral sewn wheel and white rouge. That's more than a nice enough finish for a TOOL that will get used.



The Craftsman block grinder does a fine job at buffing, but getting complete access to oddly shaped parts is a challenge since the wheels are pretty close to the body of the grinder. As you can see, though, I have room to space the wheels out if needed. With this setup I still find I need to use various felt & cotton bobs/buffs on my die grinder to get into ALL the difficult & intricate spots on some parts.

Ideally, you'd have a dedicated buffing machine (and believe it or not, I hear good things about the Harbor Freight Buffing machine). With just the one machine like I have, it is cumbersome to switch back to "grinder mode" as I need to swap wheels and reinstall the inner and outer guards/eye shields etc. For myself, though, I cant justify the investment or the floor/bench space for two discrete machines.

For a restoration like this drill press, the stainless wire wheel has been incredibly useful. I couldn't imagine cleaning up a lot of these part with out it. It is even more important than any of the buffing stuff.

Thanks Bill C

Bill get about a 1" spacer and space he wheels closer to the ends of the shafts...

I'd bet a plastic spacer stack would do it...(use two spreader washers)

Outlawmws said:

Bill get about a 1" spacer and space he wheels closer to the ends of the shafts...

I'd bet a plastic spacer stack would do it...(use two spreader washers)

Click to expand...

An arbor extension is a good way to get your buffing wheels mounted further out from the body of the grinder.

https://www.caswellplating.com has a good selection---search "Shaft adaptor" to find your size.

https://www.swmetal.com/shaft-extensions-drill-arbors-s/1514.htm

SW Metal also has what you need.

smalltown said:

Thanks Bill C

Click to expand...

+1

Those plastic knobs look great.

Bill C said:

Ideally, you'd have a dedicated buffing machine (and believe it or not, I hear good things about the Harbor Freight Buffing machine). With just the one machine like I have, it is cumbersome to switch back to "grinder mode" as I need to swap wheels and reinstall the inner and outer guards/eye shields etc. For myself, though, I cant justify the investment or the floor/bench space for two discrete machines.

Click to expand...

If you have a little bit of space, you might try what many of us have. I have a old Craftsman floor standing DP base and column with two tables and a light. One has a Craftsman grinder on it, one a Craftsman Buffer. Very easy to swing one or the other into the exact height and spot I need it. Sure beats moving and swapping things around.

Outlawmws said:

Bill get about a 1" spacer and space he wheels closer to the ends of the shafts...

I'd bet a plastic spacer stack would do it...(use two spreader washers)

Click to expand...

This has been my plan, but I don't have anything suitable on-hand... and when I am at the hardware store, I never remember

PacificaVette said:

An arbor extension is a good way to get your buffing wheels mounted further out from the body of the grinder.

https://www.caswellplating.com has a good selection---search "Shaft adaptor" to find your size.

https://www.swmetal.com/shaft-extensions-drill-arbors-s/1514.htm

SW Metal also has what you need.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the links and I am aware these exist, but I don't believe they are the best choice for a threaded shaft like on this grinder. The setscrews would damage the threads over time. These can work beautifully on smooth shafts or shafts w/ flats like on many electric motors.

RHJO51 said:

If you have a little bit of space, you might try what many of us have. I have a old Craftsman floor standing DP base and column with two tables and a light. One has a Craftsman grinder on it, one a Craftsman Buffer. Very easy to swing one or the other into the exact height and spot I need it. Sure beats moving and swapping things around.

Click to expand...

NOW this is brilliant. I have seen the drill-press column/tables being used as single grinder stands, but I had not considered a setup w/ two tables on a single column. That would be a very efficient use of space and also very adjustable/adaptable setup. I will have to strongly consider this.

OK time to seek some more input from the experts. This time its in regards to the original motor (P/N 115.6962) on my drillpress.

I am trying to decide whether or not I tear the motor apart and give it a thorough overhaul, or just give it a nice exterior clean/bearing re-lube and let her run.

Ordinarily, I go overboard on any old tool refurb/rebuild and meticulously clean, rebuild, refinish every component. I am trying a new approach with this drill press by not going over-the-top. I want to clean things up as best as possible but also leave well enough alone when possible.

So for the motor thus far:
I have cleaned the bearings (in-place) and re-packed them with high quality synthetic bearing grease. I have inspected the internal wiring behind the terminal cover plate and also underneath the capacitor. All the insulation looks pretty good with the exception of the power cord (which I will replace).
The motor starts right up w/ ease and runs quietly (to my uneducated ear). The only thing that concerns me is the noise from the governor/centrifugal switch. When I rotate the motor shaft by hand, it seems makes some rattling/knocking sounds. I am not sure if this is typical or not. Most of my experience is with newer electric motors and they are typically already attached to a machine (with belts and what not) so any specific internal motor noises are masked by the sound of the entire machine operation.

So...... should I pull it apart and investigate the internal switching mechanism or does it sound normal? I have uploaded two videos that I think accurately capture the sounds (both while running and via manual movement of the motor shaft). Both videos seems to attenuate the motor sounds, it is actually a good bit quieter in person.

Here are the two videos I took. Please let me know your thoughts. (Sorry for the long post!).

Here is the clunking/rattling sound when manually rotating the shaft:
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And here is a video of motor start-up, run, and shut down. You can hear the centrifugal switch disengage at shut down as the motor spins down.
<iframe frameborder="0" scrolling="no" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0"width="589.19" height="443" type="text/html" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Apgz2TMQlik?autoplay=0&fs=1&iv_load_policy=3&showinfo=0&rel=0&cc_load_policy=0&start=0&end=0&origin=https://youtubeembedcode.com"></iframe>

Bill C said:

OK time to seek some more input from the experts. This time its in regards to the original motor (P/N 115.6962) on my drillpress.

I am trying to decide whether or not I tear the motor apart and give it a thorough overhaul, or just give it a nice exterior clean/bearing re-lube and let her run.

Ordinarily, I go overboard on any old tool refurb/rebuild and meticulously clean, rebuild, refinish every component. I am trying a new approach with this drill press by not going over-the-top. I want to clean things up as best as possible but also leave well enough alone when possible.

So for the motor thus far:
I have cleaned the bearings (in-place) and re-packed them with high quality synthetic bearing grease. I have inspected the internal wiring behind the terminal cover plate and also underneath the capacitor. All the insulation looks pretty good with the exception of the power cord (which I will replace).
The motor starts right up w/ ease and runs quietly (to my uneducated ear). The only thing that concerns me is the noise from the governor/centrifugal switch. When I rotate the motor shaft by hand, it seems makes some rattling/knocking sounds. I am not sure if this is typical or not. Most of my experience is with newer electric motors and they are typically already attached to a machine (with belts and what not) so any specific internal motor noises are masked by the sound of the entire machine operation.

So...... should I pull it apart and investigate the internal switching mechanism or does it sound normal? I have uploaded two videos that I think accurately capture the sounds (both while running and via manual movement of the motor shaft). Both videos seems to attenuate the motor sounds, it is actually a good bit quieter in person.

Here are the two videos I took. Please let me know your thoughts. (Sorry for the long post!).

Here is the clunking/rattling sound when manually rotating the shaft:

And here is a video of motor start-up, run, and shut down. You can hear the centrifugal switch disengage at shut down as the motor spins down.

Click to expand...

I would never call myself an expert, especially on electrical and motors, so I will only comment based on my experiences.

I believe the centrifugal switch sounds pretty normal when you turn it by hand. I keep meaning to make a post on the centrifugal switch, so maybe your post is the motivation.

Your motor sounds very good running and stopping. For comparison, check these videos I posted a while back on how I rejuvenate the bearing lubrication. My motor is the same model as yours.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6993604

FrankLee said:

I would never call myself an expert, especially on electrical and motors, so I will only comment on my experiences.

I believe the centrifugal switch sounds pretty normal when you turn it by hand. I keep meaning to make a post on the centrifugal switch, so maybe your post is the motivation.

Your motor sounds very good running and stopping. For comparison, check these videos I posted a while back on how I rejuvenate the bearing lubrication. My motor is the same model as yours.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6993604

Click to expand...

Thanks Frank. The before/after videos you shared really helped. Yours sounds very similar to mine, so that bolsters my confidence. I struggle often with leaving well enough alone... but I think I can do it with this motor

One more thing - Do you know the purpose of the felt washers? I know some bearings use felt to hold extra oil and keep the bearing lubricated. In the case of these C-man motors, though, they don't appear to serve that purpose as they are spaced away from the bearing and sandwiched between the inner plate and cover plate.

Bill C said:

Thanks Frank. The before/after videos you shared really helped. Yours sounds very similar to mine, so that bolsters my confidence. I struggle often with leaving well enough alone... but I think I can do it with this motor

One more thing - Do you know the purpose of the felt washers? I know some bearings use felt to hold extra oil and keep the bearing lubricated. In the case of these C-man motors, though, they don't appear to serve that purpose as they are spaced away from the bearing and sandwiched between the inner plate and cover plate.

Click to expand...

I believe that the felt washers simply help keep dirt, dust and debris away from the bearings. I agree... if the washer held oil, the large steel washer would act as a barrier and prevent oil from lubricating the bearing.



The bearings in the model 6962 motors have a shield on the onboard side of the bearing and are open on the outboard side. Bearings on some other motors, this later 19750 model, for example, have shields on both sides and no felt washer or inner plate.


Some sleeve bearings use felt wadding for lubrication.

The felt wadding was primarily for holding lube, but did a fair job of keeping dirt out of the bearings.

Bill, someone here on GJ was making threaded extensions. Not sure what came of that...

If your grinder is a 5/8 shaft you might could drill and tap a 1/2 arbor and do the same?

Motor Centrifugal Switch

FrankLee said:

I would never call myself an expert, especially on electrical and motors, so I will only comment based on my experiences.

I believe the centrifugal switch sounds pretty normal when you turn it by hand. I keep meaning to make a post on the centrifugal switch, so maybe your post is the motivation.

Your motor sounds very good running and stopping. For comparison, check these videos I posted a while back on how I rejuvenate the bearing lubrication. My motor is the same model as yours.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6993604

Click to expand...

Motor Centrifugal Switch

You will usually hear unusual and different sounds when turning a motor shaft by hand and when the motor spins down after switching it off. If you're new to working on motors, these sounds may seem problematic. However, these sounds are usually coming from the centrifugal switch and usually normal.

Some pictures and a description of the centrifugal switch my help a novice to small fractional motors understand the sounds and operation of the switch.


The pictures below are from a Sunlight Electrical Co motor, but these components are very typical and virtually identical to Craftsman and other manufacturers' motors.

Below is a link to the owner's manual of a Craftsman motor model 115.6962. Part names referred to below are taken from this manual. http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/3331.pdf


There are two assemblies that work in conjunction to make up a centrifugal switch; the switch assembly and the governor assembly.

The switch assembly consists of:

• an upper metal portion that has two small raised areas
  
  
  ​
  
  
• a lower hard fiber portion
• electrical contacts (right side in picture below) inside both the upper and lower pieces
• a hinge pin (left side in picture) with a torsion spring that forces the contacts apart
• wire leads
  
  
  
  ​

The governor assembly consists of:

• a governor back bracket that is tightly pressed onto the rotor shaft
• two governor finger weights on either side of the governor back bracket
• extension springs connecting the governor fingers; one on each side
• a black governor sliding sleeve
• a compression spring that presses the sliding sleeve away from the back bracket
  
  
  ​

Below are pictures of the both components in their installed orientation. For clarity, several other motor parts were removed or not shown.


At rest, with power off, a compression spring presses the black governor sliding sleeve against the two small raised areas on the upper portion of the switch assembly. This forces the switch contacts together and closes the capacitor circuit (or the start windings circuit on a split phase motor).



When the motor is switched on,

• stored energy from the capacitor gets the motor spinning
• the finger weights swing out when the centrifugal force on the weights exceed the strength of their extension springs
• the fingers force the black sleeve away from the switch assembly
• the electrical contacts separate which opens the capacitor circuit removing it from the running motor circuit
  
  
  ​

When the motor is switched off:

• rpm slows
• the finger weights swing back in when the strength of the extension springs exceed the centrifugal force on the weights
• the compression spring forces the black sleeve onto the switch assembly
• the electrical contacts close the capacitor circuit for the next start-up

The louder click during wind-down occurs when the extension spring snaps the governor fingers back to their at-rest position. The scraping noise is from the black governor sleeve rotating and scraping the two raised portions of the switch assembly.



Issues with the switch

When there are problems with the centrifugal switch, the capacitor or start windings may not get removed from the running motor circuit. When this happens, you may see and smell smoke from the motor.

Switch problems may also prevent the capacitor circuit from closing at power-off. When this happens, the motor may hum and not start. This symptom may be misinterpreted as a bad capacitor.


Some causes of centrifugal switch problems:

• broken/missing spring on the finger weights
• broken wire
• debris in-between the contacts
• burnt contacts
• small raised areas worn and broken
• incorrect motor re-assembly

dp#52

2/25/2019

DP#52 is a Craftsman 100, model 103.23131.

I believe this is a 1951 model.

• the head frame trim panel is attached with drive screws
  1950 was the last year for machine screws
• '52 and '53 models did not have the head frame trim panel
• the head frame and table lock handles are the chrome-plated cast style
  I believe the '52-'53 models were equipped with the non-chromed ball-end lock handles
• the date code on the motor is B2 50

2/27/2019

This machine is in very nice condition. It came with the MSA, a nice Delta stand, an import vise and a couple other pieces. It's missing one feed handle.

The bearings are somewhat dry, but that's an easy fix.

Because this is an older model, the inside machined diameter of the column is smaller. The original owner did not RTFM and jammed the MSA sleeve WITH the round wire rings into the column. The rings should have been removed for this model of drill press. So, removing the sleeve was rather difficult.

These classic Craftsman drill presses are getting very hard to find. It's been several months since I brought one home. I'm competing with at least two major ebay sellers in south east Michigan that buy any reasonably priced vintage machine to part out. I've had to cast my net much wider and made a 300 mile round trip to Battle Creek to get this one.



3/2/2019

Here is the MSA sleeve that was jammed into the column. You can see the hammer marks around the edge were some ***** pounded it into the column with the rings attached. They should have been removed per the instructions. When this was installed, the ends of the sleeve were touching each other and it took a whole lot of effort to remove it. I was surprised that it wasn't cracked when installed or when I was pounding it back out.




This lamp below was also part of the drill press deal. I'm not sure if it was Craftsman branded, but it is shown in several Craftsman catalogs (catalog number 2536, 1949-1972). I have the shade partially cleaned with cleaner wax which does a very nice job.



I love these old lamps. Many times, the switch and bulb socket can be dismantled, cleaned, tightened and lubed. If they're not fubar, they work really well after reconditioning them.


3/9/2019

I finished re-wiring and reassembling the lamp today. It works good!





3/2/2019

Most of the head frame parts are cleaned. The quill bearings went several cycles in the sonic cleaner and look and feel great.

The larger cast iron pieces will wait until warmer weather before I can work on them outdoors.




3/3/2019

Today, I started on the motor. This is another very common 1/2 hp, 1750 rpm motor, model 115.6962. It's in very nice shape and will clean up beautifully.



The wiring is in very good shape. The original paint on the end caps look great after cleaning and waxing! The motor bearings also spent several cycles in the sonic cleaner and will be reused.




3/5/2019

I'm going to repack the motor and quill bearings, but I ran out of grease. I went searching for some Mobil Polyrex EM grease but could not find it locally, so I had to order it. In the mean time...


This morning, I tackled the chuck. It operated surprisingly smoothly through the entire range, but was very dirty and neglected.




After cleaning ...


... and reassembly:



I'll finish cleaning the sleeve with sandpaper when I have the chuck installed and spinning on the drill press.



3/6/2019

Today's tasks included cleaning the base, column and table support. The head frame casting in the picture below is from dp#50. I'll be using this one because I think it will be easier to clean than the one from dp#52.




I finished the table this afternoon. It's one of the nicest I've ever seen!




3/7/2019

The motor bearings and rotor assembly are reinstalled. The freeze & heat bearing installation technique worked great once again. The base and band were dismantled and cleaned.




3/8/2019

The quill bearings and motor bearings are repacked. The motor is reassembled with a new cord. It looks and runs great!

The quill and spindle assembly is back together with new o-ring washers.




3/11/2019

Back to work on dp#52...

FrankLee said:

The head frame casting in the picture below is from dp#50. I'll be using this one because I think it will be easier to clean than the one from dp#52.

​

Click to expand...

I was very wrong about dp#52's head frame casting.

Sometimes I am very negligent in taking before photos. Below is a somewhat-before photo of dp#52. I cleaned the left side with Simple green. The cleaner area on the right side is just run-off during left side cleaning.



Below are the post-cleaning photos. Nice!




3/12/2019

The head frame trim panel is cleaned and the head frame is waxed and mostly reassembled. The chuck and the spindle pulley will be installed after the head frame is mounted on the column.




dp#52 is complete.

Re: dp#52

FrankLee said:

Motor Centrifugal Switch
You will usually hear unusual and different sounds when turning a motor shaft by hand and when the motor spins down after switching it off. If you're new to working on motors, these sounds may seem problematic. However, these sounds are usually coming from the centrifugal switch and usually normal.
.........

Click to expand...

WOW FrankLee! Another great post! Super informative and detailed as usual.

FrankLee said:

DP#52 is a Craftsman 100, model 103.23131.

I believe this is a 1951 model.

• the head frame trim panel is attached with drive screws
  1950 was the last year for machine screws
• '52 and '53 models did not have the head frame trim panel
• the head frame and table lock handles are the chrome-plated cast style
  I believe the '52-'53 models were equipped with the non-chromed ball-end lock handles
• the date code on the motor is B2 50

Click to expand...

This post sparked a couple questions for me regarding the various finishes of the different knobs/levers over the years.

• Were the feed handle knobs always chromed (other than the 52-53 war-era DP's?) Both sets of feed handles I have are chrome plated. I have both the early (3/8 thread) and late (1/2 thread)variants. Ive seen quite a few pics of these rods on here that appear to be un-plated.
• Were the non-cast lock levers (head & table) ever chrome plated? All of mine were unpainted and NOT chrome plated. I wire-wheeled and polished mine.

As a summary, here is how my 1954/55 model "100" appears to have come finished:

• Came with both the headbadge & engine-turned trim (secured w/ "rivets")
• Had Chrome-plated feed-hub with 3/8" threaded chrome-plated feed handles.
• Came with un-plated steel "ball-end" lock levers for the head and table locks.

Re: dp#52

My remarks are interspersed below.

Bill C said:

WOW FrankLee! Another great post! Super informative and detailed as usual.

Thank you. I hope it's helpful.

This post sparked a couple questions for me regarding the various finishes of the different knobs/levers over the years.

• Were the feed handle knobs always chromed (other than the 52-53 war-era DP's?) Both sets of feed handles I have are chrome plated. I have both the early (3/8 thread) and late (1/2 thread)variants. Ive seen quite a few pics of these rods on here that appear to be un-plated.
  
  Yes, I believe so.
  
  Sometimes the chrome plating is so bad, that the plating will easily flake off with a wire wheel. The bare steel will then polish nicely:
  https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=7376453#post7376453
  
  
• Were the non-cast lock levers (head & table) ever chrome plated? All of mine were unpainted and NOT chrome plated. I wire-wheeled and polished mine.
  
  Yes. I have a couple ball-end lock handles/bolts that are chromed. I'm not sure if King-Seeley, Atlas or both plated them.
  
  I believe all taper-end handles were always blued or otherwise coated/treated.
  
  
  ​
  
  

As a summary, here is how my 1954/55 model "100" appears to have come finished:

• Came with both the headbadge & engine-turned trim (secured w/ "rivets")
• Had Chrome-plated feed-hub with 3/8" threaded chrome-plated feed handles.
• Came with un-plated steel "ball-end" lock levers for the head and table locks.

Click to expand...

For those interested, one of these drill presses is for sale for $80 in San Francisco:

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=7754655#post7754655

Looks like a model 80?

Another progress update:

I have been busy with work and other projects so progress has been slow. That said, I did manage to find some time this weekend to get some things done.

I ordered and received the spindle and quill bearings in the mail last week. I found some USA-made (NOS) SKF 6205 sealed bearings along with some Nachi 6202-5/8 bore shielded units on eBay. Total cost was only $30 including shipping, so I feel pretty good about that.







I also got around to cleaning up the column. I used the manual sanding method using some belt sander belts. I worked my up from 80grit, to 120grit to 240 grit. It cleaned up very well overall despite some pitting here and there especially where the column was fitted into the base.

Bill C said:

Another progress update:

I have been busy with work and other projects so progress has been slow. That said, I did manage to find some time this weekend to get some things done.

I ordered and received the spindle and quill bearings in the mail last week. I found some USA-made (NOS) SKF 6205 sealed bearings along with some Nachi 6202-5/8 bore shielded units on eBay. Total cost was only $30 including shipping, so I feel pretty good about that.


I also got around to cleaning up the column. I used the manual sanding method using some belt sander belts. I worked my up from 80grit, to 120grit to 240 grit. It cleaned up very well overall despite some pitting here and there especially where the column was fitted into the base.

Click to expand...

Slow progress is still progress. It’s looking good

Bill C said:

Another progress update:



I have been busy with work and other projects so progress has been slow. That said, I did manage to find some time this weekend to get some things done.



I ordered and received the spindle and quill bearings in the mail last week. I found some USA-made (NOS) SKF 6205 sealed bearings along with some Nachi 6202-5/8 bore shielded units on eBay. Total cost was only $30 including shipping, so I feel pretty good about that.

I also got around to cleaning up the column. I used the manual sanding method using some belt sander belts. I worked my up from 80grit, to 120grit to 240 grit. It cleaned up very well overall despite some pitting here and there especially where the column was fitted into the base.

Click to expand...

Great work! That column is looking pretty good.


Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app

I got the bearings installed yesterday. I deviated a little bit from FrankLee's suggested (Heat/Freeze) process.

For the Pulley Bearings:

1. Heat the both spindle bearings & freeze the pulley assembly
2. Apply retaining compound to the pulley shaft
3. Install first heated bearing onto frozen pulley shaft
4. Install the spacer onto the shaft.
5. Install second heated bearing onto the frozen pulley shaft
6. Install snap-ring into shaft groove above the 2nd bearing.

For the Quill/Spindle Bearings:

1. Heat the first bearing & freeze the spindle
2. Install first heated bearing onto frozen spindle shaft. Ensure it seats fully against the shoulder at the base of the spindle.
3. Freeze the 2nd bearing and Heat the quill.
4. Install the frozen bearing onto the end of the heated quill. Make sure to note the orientation of the quill as it is directional.
5. Freeze the spindle (with first bearing installed) and heat the quill (with 2nd bearing installed).
6. Install the heated quill and bearing onto the frozen spindle and lower bearing.
7. Install the steel washer, o-ring/rubber gasket and lock collar onto the spindle. Make sure the cone-point set-screw is aligned with the cone-shaped divot in the spindle shaft.

How did you heat the bearings?

Outlawmws said:

How did you heat the bearings?

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I heated the bearings to about 200F using a 60W incandescent light bulb. I used an oven to heat the quill.

The Light bulb trick is a great way to do the bearings!

I saw this sander at an estate sale yesterday. I plugged it in and no-go. The motor wanted to turn, but wouldn't budge. Tried turning by hand still no-go. I brought it home anyway for a very good price.

There's no model label on it, but it's close to a model 113.22560. I believe it's an early '80s machine as the fasteners are metric.

I pulled the sanding disk and the belt, plugged it in and the motor came to life. I've got much of it apart and started cleaning.



I started with the motor. The switch was broken and bypassed so I could tell that the motor was opened before. I made a quick trip to HD for a new switch. After some cleaning and reassembly, this motor runs nicely.

FrankLee said:

I saw this sander at an estate sale yesterday. I plugged it in and no-go. The motor wanted to turn, but wouldn't budge. Tried turning by hand still no-go. I brought it home anyway for a very good price.

There's no model label on it, but it's close to a model 113.22560. I believe it's an early '80s machine as the fasteners are metric.

I pulled the sanding disk and the belt, plugged it in and the motor came to life. I've got much of it apart and started

I started with the motor. The switch was broken and bypassed so I could tell that the motor was opened before. I made a quick trip to HD for a new switch. After some cleaning and reassembly, this motor runs nicely.

Click to expand...

Well since the motor came to life off the machine, let’s hope that the machine just needs a good thorough cleaning to free up all the rotating bits.

Bill C said:

Well since the motor came to life off the machine, let’s hope that the machine just needs a good thorough cleaning to free up all the rotating bits.

Click to expand...

I'm thinking that's the case. It's coming along nicely. The bearings on the sanding belt drive drum arbor were cleaned and repacked. Everything else is moving as expected. The only moving parts to clean yet are on the upper spring arm.

I think the original problem was simply the belt. It is very stiff. The sale was in a cold barn which didn't help the belt any.

The reason I bought this in the first place is because it had the optional 8" disk/table accessory. I could easily recoup my investment just on that alone.




3/12/2019

The sander is complete. It looks and runs great!