Daytona Super Duty Jack Knockoff At Menards

Skeptic68W · Jul 16, 2020

Just a heads up for any of you who were thinking of buying a yellow daytona super duty but prefer green to yellow.

https://www.menards.com/main/tools/...floor-jack/t830008/p-1555569041912-c-9113.htm

HF doesn't allow 20% off coupon on the Daytona jacks, but Menards 11% rebate does apply to this, so it can be had for $195.

Hiball, are these able to be repaired/rebuilt easily like the older jacks? Would like to get a "buy it for life" jack, and I'm not sure this is it.

Hiball · Jul 16, 2020

Funny you ask... I had the opportunity to talk to a buddy about these jacks earlier this week. Every since I had a chance to tear into the Daytona, I’ve been curious to whether the Northern Tools (yellow jacket), Sunex/Snap on and Now Masterforce carried Ucups on the main Ram. It was verified that The Yellow jacket does in fact carry a Ucup versus the Oring/retainer HF utilizes. It appears that any model that uses seal kit T830008.MF does use Ucups all around. I realize this kind of throws a monkey wrench in the “same specs/same factory argument”, but things aren’t always as they seem. In regards to the knockoff comment, none of these retailers own this design, it’s shared amongst the market and utilized to there spec.

I’ve always been a fan of HF 3 year warranty, but since they opted to cheap out in regards to the Main Ram seal, the masterforce with Ucups all around looks like the better buy with 3 year warranty. Obviously with Menards being a regional thing, I would definitely still recommend purchasing a model with Ucups versus subpar seals.

I guess to answer your question, Yes they can be rebuilt, Soft Parts arent off the wall sizes etc, Hard parts can be hit or miss. I did notice that when dismantling the Daytona I was met with crumbling metal on the exterior of the tank nut, the pump piston cylinder design doesn’t instill a lot of confidence that there won’t be some excessive metal to metal wear from moving parts on these jacks, Only time will tell in this department, as it did with other models/brands. I don’t care for the Cartridge Valve system on these jacks, but it seems to be the way of the future and I think they have worked out most of the bugs as long as the oil stays clear of contaminants.

Revtach · Jul 16, 2020

Is this the same as the Husky floor jack sold at Home Depot?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3...r-Jack-with-Speedy-Lift-HD00120-DIP/307751401

M635_Guy · Jul 16, 2020

That jack doesn't really look much like the Yellow Daytona @ HF when you start looking closely. It doesn't have that "made in the same factory" thing to me at all.

FWIW, agree with Hiball that being made in the same factory often doesn't mean all that much, and the differences below the surface can be significant.

Skeptic68W · Jul 16, 2020

Hiball said:
Funny you ask... I had the opportunity to talk to a buddy about these jacks earlier this week. Every since I had a chance to tear into the Daytona, I’ve been curious to whether the Northern Tools (yellow jacket), Sunex/Snap on and Now Masterforce carried Ucups on the main Ram. It was verified that The Yellow jacket does in fact carry a Ucup versus the Oring/retainer HF utilizes. It appears that any model that uses seal kit T830008.MF does use Ucups all around. I realize this kind of throws a monkey wrench in the “same specs/same factory argument”, but things aren’t always as they seem. In regards to the knockoff comment, none of these retailers own this design, it’s shared amongst the market and utilized to there spec.

I’ve always been a fan of HF 3 year warranty, but since they opted to cheap out in regards to the Main Ram seal, the masterforce with Ucups all around looks like the better buy with 3 year warranty. Obviously with Menards being a regional thing, I would definitely still recommend purchasing a model with Ucups versus subpar seals.

I guess to answer your question, Yes they can be rebuilt, Soft Parts arent off the wall sizes etc, Hard parts can be hit or miss. I did notice that when dismantling the Daytona I was met with crumbling metal on the exterior of the tank nut, the pump piston cylinder design doesn’t instill a lot of confidence that there won’t be some excessive metal to metal wear from moving parts on these jacks, Only time will tell in this department, as it did with other models/brands. I don’t care for the Cartridge Valve system on these jacks, but it seems to be the way of the future and I think they have worked out most of the bugs as long as the oil stays clear of contaminants.

So I guess what I'm really asking is this.

I would sorta like to have a low(er) profile jack, and as much as I'd like to pick up a vintage American one, they all seem to have rather tall bottom position heights. This means that for all intents and purposes, I'm sorta stuck getting a new jack. I realize there are many high end products like Milwaukee Hydraulic and AC, but I'm not sure I can justify that price point.

I know the Daytona has a great reputation (so far as new import jacks go) but since they're still kinda new, we really don't know if they are "buy it for life" kinda Jacks like these older US made ones are. I'm basically asking if you think that someone could buy one of these and a parts kit, and get 25+ years of semi-regular use out of it (maybe once weekly use or so).

If the answer is no, could you make a recommendation for a low(ish) profile 2 ton or 3 ton that will stand the test of time that is at least "moderate" in price? Cheapest US jack looks to be the 2 ton Hein Werner, and the lowest price I can find on it is $338 plus like $60 in shipping from Northern.

M635_Guy said:
That jack doesn't really look much like the Yellow Daytona @ HF when you start looking closely. It doesn't have that "made in the same factory" thing to me at all.

FWIW, agree with Hiball that being made in the same factory often doesn't mean all that much, and the differences below the surface can be significant.

Right. I guess the reason I wrote it that was is because I've heard of the Northern Tool Yellow Jacket being essentially identical to the Daytona, and the Menards is identical to the Yellow Jacket.

Hiball · Jul 17, 2020

M635_Guy said:
That jack doesn't really look much like the Yellow Daytona @ HF when you start looking closely. It doesn't have that "made in the same factory" thing to me at all.

FWIW, agree with Hiball that being made in the same factory often doesn't mean all that much, and the differences below the surface can be significant.

I guess I’m not sure what a “made in the same factory” look is, but it uses the same hydraulic unit design, Along with tons of today’s jacks. The main difference is Menards also Specified Ucups on the pump pistons similar to HF, but also upgraded the Main Ram Piston seal. The frame design and color schemes is whatever the supplier chooses and can vary.

Hiball · Jul 17, 2020

Revtach said:
Is this the same as the Husky floor jack sold at Home Depot?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3...r-Jack-with-Speedy-Lift-HD00120-DIP/307751401

Not necessarily... as I’ve stated many time this hydraulic design is very common, it’s been around for a long time. The only recent changes is some of the retailers have optioned there jack to utilize Ucups versus Orings on the Pump pistons and in some cases the Main Piston seal.

Hiball · Jul 17, 2020

Skeptic68W said:
So I guess what I'm really asking is this.

I would sorta like to have a low(er) profile jack, and as much as I'd like to pick up a vintage American one, they all seem to have rather tall bottom position heights. This means that for all intents and purposes, I'm sorta stuck getting a new jack. I realize there are many high end products like Milwaukee Hydraulic and AC, but I'm not sure I can justify that price point.

I know the Daytona has a great reputation (so far as new import jacks go) but since they're still kinda new, we really don't know if they are "buy it for life" kinda Jacks like these older US made ones are. I'm basically asking if you think that someone could buy one of these and a parts kit, and get 25+ years of semi-regular use out of it (maybe once weekly use or so).

If the answer is no, could you make a recommendation for a low(ish) profile 2 ton or 3 ton that will stand the test of time that is at least "moderate" in price? Cheapest US jack looks to be the 2 ton Hein Werner, and the lowest price I can find on it is $338 plus like $60 in shipping from Northern.
.

In regards to Low profile models, you are going to be limited. If I had to choose between the Daytona or the Menards model, It’s a no brainer go with the Menards, superior seals, Same warranty. The HW93642 is a tried and try design, Has great service support and although not 100% made in the states, it’s a workhorse. The AC has good reviews here, but if it’s out of your budget, Maybe check out the Conpaq models and wouldn’t hurt to browse the Norco catalog.

Skeptic68W · Jul 17, 2020

Hiball said:
In regards to Low profile models, you are going to be limited. If I had to choose between the Daytona or the Menards model, It’s a no brainer go with the Menards, superior seals, Same warranty. The HW93642 is a tried and try design, Has great service support and although not 100% made in the states, it’s a workhorse. The AC has good reviews here, but if it’s out of your budget, Maybe check out the Conpaq models and wouldn’t hurt to browse the Norco catalog.

Thanks for the reply. Honestly, I probably couldn't justify even the HW at nearly $400 shipped. I saw that $338 price at Northern and almost had myself talked into it until I realized I couldn't have it shipped to store and they don't carry in store.

To your knowledge, do the Napa Carlyle jacks use O-rings, or do you think they're using cups like the MF?

I'm not in a huge hurry, so I might end up just waiting on a vintage one to pop up on FB locally. Currently the only two available are a black/yellow craftsman that needs rebuilt and has an over 5" collapsed height, and an old Napa two ton with no details at all for $65, just this pic.

https://scontent-ort2-1.**.fbcdn.ne...=6d408cde35d7398a7bc89047327ee8bb&oe=5F354BE4

Hiball · Jul 17, 2020

Skeptic68W said:
Thanks for the reply.

To your knowledge, do the Napa Carlyle jacks use O-rings as well, or do you think they're using cups?

My guess is that Models that utilize Poly Ucups, will have it in the description as a selling point, Possibly in the User manual.

Skeptic68W · Jul 17, 2020

Hiball said:
My guess is that Models that utilize Poly Ucups, will have it in the description as a selling point, Possibly in the User manual.

This is the only one I see that says anything about seals. It says "performance seals" https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NLE7916450?keywordInput=791+6450

Probably not worth the money.

ajchien · Jul 17, 2020

Interesting. When I download the product manual for the yellow jacket, on the first page, it says for technical service, call Torin. When you download the menards jack user manual. the technical service phone number is exactly the same as the yellow jacket number. Can I make the assumption that Torin is the maker Of both the yellow jacket and the menards masterforce?

I had always assumed that the FJ300 and the DJ3000 were Sunex sourced because they had shared more design features similar to Sunex offerings than Torin offerings.

But Now even all the zerk fittings are even in the same place between all these jacks. So, I figure either I was wrong before, and all these jacks are actually all Torin products... OR ... Are they just copying each other’s exterior appearance because it’s apparently selling well?

Skeptic68W · Jul 17, 2020

ajchien said:
Interesting. When I download the product manual for the yellow jacket, on the first page, it says for technical service, call Torin. When you download the menards jack user manual. the technical service phone number is exactly the same as the yellow jacket number. Can I make the assumption that Torin is the maker Of both the yellow jacket and the menards masterforce?

I had always assumed that the FJ300 and the DJ3000 were Sunex sourced because they had shared more design features similar to Sunex offerings than Torin offerings.

But Now even all the zerk fittings are even in the same place between all these jacks. So, I figure either I was wrong before, and all these jacks are actually all Torin products... OR ... Are they just copying each other’s exterior appearance because it’s apparently selling well?

Maybe Sunex is making some jacks for Torin :dunno:

Hiball · Jul 17, 2020

ajchien said:
Interesting. When I download the product manual for the yellow jacket, on the first page, it says for technical service, call Torin. When you download the menards jack user manual. the technical service phone number is exactly the same as the yellow jacket number. Can I make the assumption that Torin is the maker Of both the yellow jacket and the menards masterforce?

I had always assumed that the FJ300 and the DJ3000 were Sunex sourced because they had shared more design features similar to Sunex offerings than Torin offerings.

But Now even all the zerk fittings are even in the same place between all these jacks. So, I figure either I was wrong before, and all these jacks are actually all Torin products... OR ... Are they just copying each other’s exterior appearance because it’s apparently selling well?

I’d say Torin is definitely Sourcing those models, it’s impossible to keep up with who is building what for who because it probably changes based off who is offering the best pricing. I recall sunex being listed in the HF versus SO lawsuit in regards to the patent infringement on the frame design/cosmetics. In regards to the hydraulic unit, It’s fair game as all these companies are paying someone to use that design To market there jack.

Hiball · Jul 17, 2020

Skeptic68W said:
Maybe Sunex is making some jacks for Torin

Highly unlikely, Tongrun is a major player in the lift world, If not the Biggest.

Skeptic68W · Jul 17, 2020

With the veterans discount and free store pickup, I could be interested in this if I knew it was quality https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NLE7916440?keywordInput=791+6440 looking at the manual though, unless I'm missing something it doesn't look like seal kits are even available for them...https://manualzz.com/doc/en/5413970/3.5-ton-professional-low-profile-jack

Says "High performance pressure seals for extended life and use in adverse temperature and pressure conditions. " no idea if that means u cups or not.

sparky 1971 · Jul 17, 2020

Torin does make the Masterforce jacks. I have two 3-1/2 tons. One Torin, one Masterforce. Both purchased at Menards. Both identical except for color. I bought the Torin about a year ago before Menards had the MF jacks.

ajchien · Jul 17, 2020

Skeptic68W said:
With the veterans discount and free store pickup, I could be interested in this if I knew it was quality https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NLE7916440?keywordInput=791+6440 looking at the manual though, unless I'm missing something it doesn't look like seal kits are even available for them...https://manualzz.com/doc/en/5413970/3.5-ton-professional-low-profile-jack

Says "High performance pressure seals for extended life and use in adverse temperature and pressure conditions. " no idea if that means u cups or not.

I think you might be able to make good use of the hcrcnow.com website. Head to the seal kit section, and choose Napa. A little cumbersome because there are “Napa made by Shinn Fu” and “Napa made by Sunex“ sections. If you search out the Jack, you might get to see pictures of a seal kit that has been put together for the jack. Look for the u cup vs. O-Ring seal in the pictures. You can also correlate with the “exploded diagram” which is associated with the Jack. I hate to generalize, but with A cursory look from me, seems like most of the Napa Shinn Fu jacks have u cups For the main ram while the Napa Sunex jacks tend to have o rings for the main ram.

Skeptic68W · Jul 17, 2020

ajchien said:
I think you might be able to make good use of the hcrcnow.com website. Head to the seal kit section, and choose Napa. A little cumbersome because there are “Napa made by Shinn Fu” and “Napa made by Sunex“ sections. If you search out the Jack, you might get to see pictures of a seal kit that has been put together for the jack. Look for the u cup vs. O-Ring seal in the pictures. You can also correlate with the “exploded diagram” which is associated with the Jack. I hate to generalize, but with A cursory look from me, seems like most of the Napa Shinn Fu jacks have u cups For the main ram while the Napa Sunex jacks tend to have o rings for the main ram.

Looks like they only sell the complete hydraulic unit for that Napa jack (for $143 :eyecrazy:

)

So I guess my two best options here are either the Menards jack, or just wait on a used vintage to show up locally.

This guy is the first I've seen to not have a very positive review of the Yellow Jacket/Menards jack:

oldwino · Jul 17, 2020

What's the world coming to??? Knockoff Harbor Freight stuff???

Skeptic68W · Jul 17, 2020

Boy did I do something dumb today.

Been kinda down the rabbit hole over this jack stuff when I noticed a vintage Napa fleet jack(Walker rebrand maybe?) on FB marketplace with minimal description that had just been listed. So I jumped in the car and went and got it. I had to quit early on a brake job on my truck the other day and didn't finish it, so I took my Charger...big mistake.

This thing is absolutely enormous. Well over double the length of a normal jack, and weighs probably 200+lbs. I managed to get it home, but I damaged the trunk liner and ripped a hole in the back of one of my rear seats getting it out.

Worst part is, I get it home and I can't even store it in the place I designated for jack storage because the handle doesn't go all the way vertical, it sticks out and adds an extra foot or two to the length, so I wouldn't get able to get my car in the garage with it. It's also far too long to use along the sides of the car while it's in the garage....not to mention it's too tall to even use with the car.

I'm probably not keeping this thing. Hiball, what's this thing worth?

Hiball · Jul 17, 2020

Skeptic68W said:
This guy is the first I've seen to not have a very positive review of the Yellow Jacket/Menards jack:

Outside of the grease zerk issue, the rest of the video is just a failure to understand how hydraulic jacks work, in particular twin pump units. Yes... it will take increased handle pressure to lift Heavier vehicles. Once under load the speed side pump bypasses, the correlation between the cylinder bore and the Power side piston bore/volume along with the Load/length of the lever determines how much Pressure is required.

Are these jacks a perfect fit for all applications? No, but they should lift what they advertise. I big bore professional jack like a weaver Wa-73, Milwaukee Model 40, Walker j134/93657 will handle heavier loads better because they carry larger cylinder bores, which keeps Cylinder PSI under control.

Hiball · Jul 17, 2020

Skeptic68W said:
Boy did I do something dumb today.

Been kinda down the rabbit hole over this jack stuff when I noticed a vintage Napa fleet jack(Walker rebrand maybe?) on FB marketplace with minimal description that had just been listed. So I jumped in the car and went and got it. I had to quit early on a brake job on my truck the other day and didn't finish it, so I took my Charger...big mistake.

This thing is absolutely enormous. Well over double the length of a normal jack, and weighs probably 200+lbs. I managed to get it home, but I damaged the trunk liner and ripped a hole in the back of one of my rear seats getting it out.

Worst part is, I get it home and I can't even store it in the place I designated for jack storage because the handle doesn't go all the way vertical, it sticks out and adds an extra foot or two to the length, so I wouldn't get able to get my car in the garage with it. It's also far too long to use along the sides of the car while it's in the garage....not to mention it's too tall to even use with the car.

I'm probably not keeping this thing. Hiball, what's this thing worth?

Stand behind the jack, Grab the release knob, Pull up and push the handle forward which will change the quandrant and allow the handle to rest straight up and down.

In regards to it’s worth? All markets are different, Overall condition, rebuild history and Most importantly what someone is willing to pay. It’s a 2 ton model, so less desirable than the 4 ton units, Maybe start at $200 and see what happens.. dunno.

Skeptic68W · Jul 17, 2020

Hiball said:
Stand behind the jack, Grab the release knob, Pull up and push the handle forward which will change the quandrant and allow the handle to rest straight up and down.

In regards to it’s worth? All markets are different, Overall condition, rebuild history and Most importantly what someone is willing to pay. It’s a 2 ton model, so less desirable than the 4 ton units, Maybe start at $200 and see what happens.. dunno.

O snap, I never saw that. Great tip. With the handle stored upright I actually can put it in my normal jack spot...maybe this doesn't have to go away after all. And it turns out I actually can get it under the car, but just barely. I guess the jack points are on the pinch welds, and it reaches those...so it's not the end of the world.

Different question you may not be able to answer. It feels like it takes about the same effort to jack up the front corner of my truck with this jack vs the little chinese powerzone 3 ton I have sitting next to it. Is that to be expected, or do you think the Napa might be under-performing. It seems to be leaking oil quite considerably. The guy told me when I picked it up that they had just changed or topped up the oil...I'm guessing it's got a bad seal somewhere, but maybe he just overfilled it :dunno:

Hiball · Jul 17, 2020

Skeptic68W said:
O snap, I never saw that. Great tip. With the handle stored upright I actually can put it in my normal jack spot...maybe this doesn't have to go away after all.

Different question you may not be able to answer. It feels like it takes about the same effort to jack up the front corner of my truck with this jack vs the little chinese powerzone 3 ton I have sitting next to it. Is that to be expected, or do you think the Napa might be under-performing. It seems to be leaking oil quite considerably. The guy told me when I picked it up that they had just changed or topped up the oil...I'm guessing it's got a bad seal somewhere, but maybe he just overfilled it

See post #22

Depending on Bore size of the 3 ton, I’d suspect the lever resistance to be similar.

Skeptic68W · Jul 17, 2020

Hiball said:
See post #22

Depending on Bore size of the 3 ton, I’d suspect the lever resistance to be similar.

I gotcha. It's actually better than I thought originally because I had the handle in a disadvantageous position relative to the other jack. I think they feel similar now with that adjusted.

So now that you pointed out the different handle positions, I have realized (and just tested this) that I can use this jack to reach all the way to the pumpkin in the back of my charger, and because this thing reaches so high, I can get the *** of that car WAY up in the air. High enough that I can actually use my nice 6 ton jack stands instead of the crappy little 3 tons I usually have to use with that car.

This thing might be getting greased up, a fresh coat a paint and a permanent home after all.

How do I know if the hydraulics need rebuilt? Just keep an eye on the oil leak and if it keeps leaking order a kit?

Hiball · Jul 17, 2020

Skeptic68W said:
How do I know if the hydraulics need rebuilt? Just keep an eye on the oil leak and if it keeps leaking order a kit?

Any plans of resealing a jack should first be disassembled to verify internal condition looking for issues that might need to be addressed prior to installing new seals. The pump pistons on that jack will utilize gland nuts that can be tightened to control any minor seepage, but yes leaks can be a indication that it’s time to check things out and possible re-seal. On the older models the Main Ram where it exits the the Tank nut also utilized a gland nut/packing but I’m sure that one used a quad ring.

Skeptic68W · Jul 17, 2020

Hiball said:
Any plans of resealing a jack should first be disassembled to verify internal condition looking for issues that might need to be addressed prior to installing new seals. The pump pistons on that jack will utilize gland nuts that can be tightened to control any minor seepage, but yes leaks can be a indication that it’s time to check things out and possible re-seal. On the older models the Main Ram where it exits the the Tank nut also utilized a gland nut/packing but I’m sure that one used a quad ring.

It have had it supporting the front half of my half-ton ram for the last 20 minutes or so, hasn't leaked down at all. Would you even mess with it until it starts failing to perform?

Hiball · Jul 17, 2020

Skeptic68W said:
It have had it supporting the front half of my half-ton ram for the last 20 minutes or so, hasn't leaked down at all. Would you even mess with it until it starts failing to perform?

Probably not...

Skeptic68W · Jul 17, 2020

Hiball said:
Probably not...

Are they still making the seal kits for these, or should I snag one now while they're available to keep on the shelf?

dagofast · Jul 17, 2020

Skeptic68W said:
Looks like they only sell the complete hydraulic unit for that Napa jack (for $143 )

So I guess my two best options here are either the Menards jack, or just wait on a used vintage to show up locally.

This guy is the first I've seen to not have a very positive review of the Yellow Jacket/Menards jack:

My local family owned tire shop uses Napa Jacks. The kid told me they last on average about 90 days in constant 6 days a week use. He said they don't rebuild them, they just toss them in the dumpster and have Napa drop off another. Crikey! At $143 for a new seal kit, I can see why. He also said they couldn't find any local rebuild shops that would touch them.

Hiball · Jul 17, 2020

Skeptic68W said:
Are they still making the seal kits for these, or should I snag one now while they're available to keep on the shelf?

Seal kits are still available and aren’t in danger of going anywhere soon, I definitely wouldn’t purchase one to keep on the shelf. Remember rule #1... Inspect the jack internally prior to buying a seal kit.

paulsomlo · Jul 17, 2020

dagofast said:
My local family owned tire shop uses Napa Jacks. The kid told me they last on average about 90 days in constant 6 days a week use. He said they don't rebuild them, they just toss them in the dumpster and have Napa drop off another. Crikey! At $143 for a new seal kit, I can see why. He also said they couldn't find any local rebuild shops that would touch them.

Sounds like you need to check their dumpster on a regular basis!

Nice score, Skeptic! I can't use my jacks either without pulling the car part way out of the garage, and if I need to jack from the side, I have to angle the jack pretty extreme to have room to swing the handle.

ajchien · Jul 17, 2020

First, It’s a nice jack. It’s a rebranded Walker / Lincoln. Exchange the “91-“ with “93” and you get the Walker / Lincoln numbering system, a model 93655. Not fitting under your car would be the biggest problem. If you need to drive up on a 2x8 or a phone book to get the car high enough to put a jack under, that’s a total annoyance.

As for effort to lift the jack, If your jack is leaking when you pump (From pump pistons, main ram, release valve), you’re losing some of your effort in that leak.

Otherwise, effort and number of handle strokes Needed are totally dependent on math and physics that you can’t cheat. There are effectively 2 levers on a Jack. One mechanical level which is your handle to your pump piston. The second hydraulic lever is the ratio of your pump piston and the main ram.

The first lever is easier to figure out, the longer your handle the less effort but more swing distance you need. The second is similar though. If you have a big pump relative to your main ram you will spend a lot of effort to raise the main ram in fewer strokes of the pump. If you have a Small pump to main ram ratio, you will spend less effort but make many more strokes.

How a dual piston system works - at first you’re pumping with both the small (power) piston and the larger (speed) piston. You’re pushing a larger amount of hydraulic fluid, thus the main ram will raise fast. However, once you encounter a load at a certain pressure setting, the larger speed piston will “bypass” and stop working. Now you’re pumping with only the smaller power piston and it has changed the ratio of fluid being pushed into the main rain ... because it will give you more leverage and thus less effort, but more strokes. This is why counting “number of strokes to reach maximum height” is absolutely worthless in a dual pump “Jack review”, unless you want to see how Fast the jack lifts air. If someone wanted to count pumps until you hit load, and then count pumps after hitting load to lifting a tire off the ground and compare between two jacks on the same vehicle, that would make more sense.

Bigdogboogie · Jul 17, 2020

oldwino said:
What's the world coming to??? Knockoff Harbor Freight stuff???

Skeptic68W · Jul 17, 2020

I'm currently stripping this thing down to clean/paint it. Man the rear axle section really really doesn't want to come apart. I've been heating it with the torch, soaking it in liquid wrench, and beating on it for 20 minutes or better...damn rust.

Hiball · Jul 17, 2020

Skeptic68W said:
I'm currently stripping this thing down to clean/paint it. Man the rear axle section really really doesn't want to come apart. I've been heating it with the torch, soaking it in liquid wrench, and beating on it for 20 minutes or better...damn rust.

I’m not a fan of the double wall frames, they always stick right at the casters, Slow and steady, keep it even from the front to back. I’ve on occasion needed a porta power and small cylinder to separate them. Honestly... I wouldn’t worry about cleaning it outside a good power wash, it’s too big of a job simply to put lipstick on a pig. It’s a tool.... Use it.

Skeptic68W · Jul 17, 2020

Hiball said:
I’m not a fan of the double wall frames, they always stick right at the casters, Slow and steady, keep it even from the front to back. I’ve on occasion needed a porta power and small cylinder to separate them. Honestly... I wouldn’t worry about cleaning it outside a good power wash, it’s too big of a job simply to put lipstick on a pig. It’s a tool.... Use it.

Yeah, and there's not really any good places to pry in the back except against the base of the handle, which doesn't give you equal pressure around the axle itself.

I finally got it apart. The rear axle was the sticking point. Unfortunately I did dent the inside of the frame up a bit from the prying...but it is what it is. That ******* fought me harder than anything I've come across before, and that means a lot coming from a guy who does all his own auto repairs and has mostly owned 15+ year old vehicles in the rust belt. It was rough. By the looks of things, someone has been in and rebuilt this thing before (or resealed it maybe). There are apprentice marks all over the place on the hydraulic unit.

I have some idiosyncrasies about the tools (or just things generally) that I plan to keep for long periods of time. I don't like having dirty, rusty things around, I like working with quality stuff that's also in good condition. I have a particular hatred for rust, won't put up with rusty tools. So if I buy something like this, I always strip and paint it.

Now I just have to decide on colors...

Skeptic68W · Jul 18, 2020

Hiball, I thought you might be interested in the response that I got from Napa about their jacks. I emailed and asked them which ones used ucups and which were just o-ring. Here's their response.

"All Carlyle floor jacks use Polyurethane U-Cup seals in the high pressure pump piston. This includes:
791-6420
791-6440
791-6445
791-6450
791-6460"

Is the "high pressure pump piston" and "main ram" that HF uses an o-ring on? If so, these Napa jacks might be a better purchase than a HF jack, although less of a best-buy than the Yellow Jacket/Masterforce.

Hiball · Jul 18, 2020

Skeptic68W said:
Hiball, I thought you might be interested in the response that I got from Napa about their jacks. I emailed and asked them which ones used ucups and which were just o-ring. Here's their response.

"All Carlyle floor jacks use Polyurethane U-Cup seals in the high pressure pump piston. This includes:
791-6420
791-6440
791-6445
791-6450
791-6460"

Is the "high pressure pump piston" and "main ram" that HF uses an o-ring on? If so, these Napa jacks might be a better purchase than a HF jack, although less of a best-buy than the Yellow Jacket/Masterforce.

The Daytona “Super duty” uses Poly Ucups on the Pump pistons also, they just cheaped out on Main Ram Piston seal. That is where they went with a Oring/Retainer seal versus the Poly Ucup. It sounds like the Napa might use the same internals as the HF super duty.

Daytona Super Duty Jack Knockoff At Menards

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