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Cheap Evaporust at Amazon

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logixjock

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CCC doesn't take into account further discounts or coupons though. Last year at this time it was $16.** with a 50% off two or more coupon.

I got an empty, totally destroyed box from that sale, Amazon said "tough luck kid". That's literally why I set up the CCC watch.
 

LNKMK8

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I realized I was out last week, so this is great timing. I had been buying the Rust Remover (Sunnyside) product from Menards at $20 a gallon since we don't have Pepboys local here. Thanks for posting.
 

pizza

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I got an empty, totally destroyed box from that sale, Amazon said "tough luck kid". That's literally why I set up the CCC watch.

if amazon did you dirty like that, why are you still interested in evaporust on there?
i generally count on amazon to make things right. if i found they don't make things right on jugs of chemicals, i wouldn't buy that kind of item on there anymore.
 
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catalytic

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Thanks for posting. I usually pay this much for a quart. Having tried everything on numerous large restorations, I can say evaporust is the best. It brings back metal that looks beyond help.
 

Shiftless

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Thanks for posting. I usually pay this much for a quart. Having tried everything on numerous large restorations, I can say evaporust is the best. It brings back metal that looks beyond help.

Yep! It works for me. I’ve been using is for years.
BTW, Home Depot has 5 gallon buckets regular price for around $75 which works to be only a bit more per gallon than this bargain Amazon price.
 

macgee

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Sale is over, now $20+

$13 at your doorstep for a gallon is a great deal.


You should try it in a heated ultrasonic cleaner, amazing results.
 

catalytic

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Vinegar is acid. It reacts with rust but also etches (slightly eats away at) the metal. If you have any aluminum or copper on your parts, it eats those faster.

Evaporust is chelant. It only reacts with rust. It does not react at all with alu, steel, or copper.

If you have the choice, use evaporust.

I also use it indoors all the time. It has a very mild odd (but not bad) smell.
 
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pbon

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I bought some and just used about a quart. Do people save the used stuff to reuse? For how long?
 

XJPat

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I bought some and just used about a quart. Do people save the used stuff to reuse? For how long?
I save it and filter it through a t shirt. Hand tool rescue has said the filtering is a waste of time. I get rid of it when it is a dark black.

Sent from my KFDOWI using Tapatalk
 

4xdog

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I bought some and just used about a quart. Do people save the used stuff to reuse? For how long?

As noted, Evapo-Rust turns black as it removes oxidized iron (my chemistry background tells me the black stuff is reduced iron, and Evapo-Rust is a reducing agent giving electrons back to the oxide).

I use it until it won't work anymore. It'll get slower and slower until it's so inefficient it won't remove rust. It's done. You'll know.
 

macgee

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I use evaporust a lot over the last several years. I've now store it in a commercial kitchen grade cystal clear polycarbonate food container (1/2 sz) using the matching colander and using an airtight lid (both items are key). I'm amazed how long it lasts with the airtight lid. I always keep the lid on, even when using it.
With the recent and extreme heatwaves we've been having in So.Cal., items are in the bath during the heat has improved its performance significantly.

Highly recommend the polycarbonate in clear, its very strong and being able to see through the container is valuable to find small parts. Having the sealed top (GripLid, or seal cover version) is the main key to keeping the Evaporust lasting much longer and now just keep it on a shelf next the ultrasonic cleaner and just drop things into it when I need to, then pull out the colander with the items are in, Evaporust drains out of the colander back into the container. I'm losing very little liquid this way. Loving the setup and worth the investment. I also have surgical hemostat Curved forceps to grab things that are in the bath to pull out or to flip.

Check out Cambro who makes this set-up and best quality but Vigor is a cheaper alternative though I don't think they offer a colander?

https://www.cambro.com/Products/food-pans-and-lids/camwear-pans/

13CLRCW135_B1CK_0119_S02.jpg
 
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macgee

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Walmart is selling 1 gallon for $15.36 with free pickup at locations or if combined with other needed items of $35 or more, you get free delivery to your door. Walmart sometimes sells it for a little lower but $15 is pretty good.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Evapo-Rust-The-Original-Super-Safe-Rust-Remover-Water-Based-Non-Toxic-Biodegradable-1-Gallon/48810395

I combined it with a gallon of Simple Green Extreme Aircraft/Precision Cleaner needed for my Ultrasonic cleaner to get free delivery.

**EDIT: Just looked on Amazon today and as of 10/27/20, they also have the same price as Walmart, $15.36 free ship with prime. Use link in OP.

I also checked Pep Boys and they currently have it for $14.99 for pick up at stores, in case you don't have prime or the sale goes away (which typically happens)

https://www.pepboys.com/evapo-rust-super-safe-rust-remover-1-gallon/product/206426
 
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macgee

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Tried that stuff on a few projects the hype out preforms the product.

Respectfully, I think you may not be using it correctly. Evaporust does work very well if used correctly. Its not a degreaser and cant reach rust covered in grease, dirt and grime, also using it in cold temps greatly reduces performance and will need longer bathing time.

3baygarage: I agree that it can sometimes remove paint but not nearly as bad as a typical degreaser can but it can happen especially left for a long time in a bath. Gold tint can happen but hasn't happened to me recently but does easily comes off if wiped off before drying or rinsed off with water/dry, I usually rinse/wipe down in rubbing alcohol and easily goes away, also if it dries with a gold tint, when I apply tri-flow lube or BoeShield to protect the tool then the gold tint totally goes away.

On a hot sunny day, let the piece going into evaporust sit in the sun for a while to really heat up, it greatly increase performance and then just rinse in fresh water afterwards, immediately wipe down dry, swing it around like your exercising to let the centrifugal force move any left over liquid out in tot he open to swipe dry, then let it sit in the sun to warm up; no flash rust should happen. The pics attached are from this week after wiping down quickly in fresh water. The pic #3 was after being additional cleaned up to be ready for install. I've easily have done evaporust with hundreds of items. These items were de-greased before Evaporust bath. I don't like to use steel or brass wire wheels although I do use extra steps to get them shiny like it in the pics. Your items out of a proper bath will be light-dark grey but they quickly shine afterwards with some easy extra steps.
 

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mike_aa

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Respectfully, I think you may not be using it correctly. Evaporust does work very well if used correctly. Its not a degreaser and cant reach rust covered in grease, dirt and grime, also using it in cold temps greatly reduces performance and will need longer bathing time.

3baygarage: I agree that it can sometimes remove paint but not nearly as bad as a typical degreaser can but it can happen especially left for a long time in bath. Gold tint can happen but hasn't happened to me recently but does easily comes off if wiped off before drying, I usually rinse/wipe down in rubbing alcohol and easily goes away, also if it dries with a gold tint, when I apply tri-flow lube or BoeShield to protect the tool then the gold tint totally goes away.

On a hot sunny day, let the piece going into evaporust sit in the sun for a while to really heat up, it greatly increase performance and then just rinse in fresh water afterwards, wipe down dry immediately let sit in the sun; no flash rust should happen. The pics attached are from this week after wiping down quickly in fresh water. The pic #3 was after being additional cleaned up to be ready for install. I've easily have done evaporust with hundreds of items. These items were de-greased before Evaporust bath. No steel or brass wire wheel was used.

WOW! Those are some nice results. Thanks for posting the Starrett Rule photo! I just found a square/protractor set that has some rusting and I was wondering how to proceed with cleaning it up. Guess I'll be getting some of the Evaporust and one of those containers you recommended. What did you use to clean/degrease it?

Mike A.
 

4xdog

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I’ve had friends use Evapo-Rust like it was phosphoric acid-based Naval Jelly, brushing it on a surface and expecting it to work. That’s not how to do it, of course, but it can be inferred by some of the small container sizes. Gallon (or more) is the way to go. The piece needs to be fully immersed.

If the finish is an oxide finish — like some old black oxide/Parkerized finishes — do NOT use Evapo-Rust. It’ll strip the oxide back to bare metal, ‘cause it doesn’t know the difference between that finish and corrosion.

Yes, warmer temperatures definitely speed up the reaction with rust. It’s quite dramatic. A general rule of thumb in chemistry is that a 10°C increase in temperature will double a reaction rate. Evapo-Rust is at least that, and probably more.

macgee, those are great examples of what Evapo-Rust can do. And your polycarbonate collander tray is a terrific idea.
 

macgee

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WOW! Those are some nice results. Thanks for posting the Starrett Rule photo! I just found a square/protractor set that has some rusting and I was wondering how to proceed with cleaning it up. Guess I'll be getting some of the Evaporust and one of those containers you recommended. What did you use to clean/degrease it?

Mike A.


Thank you Mike,

I use various ones but to be honest Simple Green purple "Lavender" Scent All-Purpose Cleaner in 1 gal. (@HomeDepot) does an amazing job and much better than a lot of expensive degreasers. I also use Simple Green Extreme Aviation degreaser/cleaner for Aluminum items, it works very well.
Note: I don't at all like the orig. Green version at all, I totally avoid it. The lavender version seems to be very different and to me performs much better.

And "Oil Eater", not the best but its earth safe, non toxic and cheap and it works. Its what I used for items in the pics. Your milage will vary. Easy to find locally. I used the strong ZEP industrial and don't like it, too toxic, leaves a film and not greatest results compared to the above.

The best way to degrease is to use a UltraSonic cleaner with a heater, I have a 6L size, same size as my Evaporust polycarbonate bin. I cant believe I have gone so long without one and will now always have one. HEAT is your friend.

I don't want to get too off topic for this thread (which I already have) but rulers are the toughest, its very hit and miss. A lot will depend on type of oxidation and damaged it has caused and how the ruler was made. The one in pic came out better than typical. You never know till after you try.

One big problem with rust and rulers is that the measuring marks on blades are deeply etched into the metal, rust also etches/pits that damages the ruler in the same way. After the Evaporust removes all the imbedded rust what is left are holes and marks that the rust created, intersecting with the etched measuring marks making it harder to read. The second issue is that a good ruler has a very good contrasting finish that makes the numbers and marks easier to read. A lot of the time that contrast goes away after bathing it and once cleaned you're left with a uniform finish and tends to be one shiny blade with lots of pits/etches and hard to read. I try minimize bath time with rulers and try to remove as much crud and rust before 1st the bath and in between short baths. You don't want to over do it.

I'll be honest, most of the time I junk the blades whenever possible and get new zero glare hardened 12" PEC blade ($20 @ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/Blem-Cosmetic-Second-PEC-12-4R-Combination-Square-Blade-fits-Starrett-Mitutoyo/131321206804?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item1e935a9814:g:1IEAAOSwBLlVITUp&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACYBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%252Fn%252BzU5L90Z278x5ickkBUIiHwYv5YgVss0WaiENz2HrmhZQqNG8SYa8c3GgcgBO2YTpkyQ3x0lXAzpUvaYRO9Ku3N6IBHrAXTKZGEwdZAS6rwhJ4jLKUbht2M6m01uBcTffKAyN%252FnAZ06XsDxxSmnVnj4pPsO37KPhPWPN9ArOWQOusMXPTAnRtTUk%252BbvyBY4a0G47BTN98%252F%252B%252FHtpOAYV6ZB%252F3P0%252BkVXwsWbqdzV8Fp4zxOyhkrvHDYRVW2rwEcgxUMDGL45XUvQYYolvxDiPv1JV7Ht%252BEXocUq0LE%252F50xNBEbhOyJ8Hxj2DSOgnshwpHv%252FjAHN5bM4DgQiI6YW5CrZS9rJ8ohgKi0Dfhh9zWMDCRlqmrbpkkoXq7y%252BfXfYIR%252FtX16tHkyCLmUL1Oedna3nDzWKbMo9tCnJNQIcZ9TkazkClp2XyMZLiy1%252F14JDd3XlkK52s7oSNW7iUQ9O3ZJE9gealrN6lTP1UVxYFQuoHxMzAxW0gaK8EGh7F%252BuviPD4I6Kn4UX1tyvfoyJ6Cj9fT%252BvjyvSuoaVZ23m3fErr1cRTnLlGGzHB3ArxIb5rtooXuAgT4kv6zYI9h7Yva2r%252FZDO4C5PHyBgANmwp1xeokbK2bSlcq%252FNitW6Tt07jp5VgC5aY5cQxDGMYZccYTT1nM5UzohRIbgNCURBwb3pBscXbrYl3MSUJseALjxukj2D05P3obosaransqXMzaIofRIHoLMvwc32otWaNqfuvfRSCxagoBpV%252BRPf1SoWBri0O69vdWgG8Mm0gnYZ2%7Ccksum%3A131321206804a86f7f9f30944fde96c0db43a3cf9e35%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524) for the combination pieces that are just as good as new $$$ Starretts and what Mitutoyo now uses (USA made ones are PEC). Wont be as collectible but waaaay more usable, accurate and much easier to read correctly.



I’ve had friends use Evapo-Rust like it was phosphoric acid-based Naval Jelly, brushing it on a surface and expecting it to work. That’s not how to do it, of course, but it can be inferred by some of the small container sizes. Gallon (or more) is the way to go. The piece needs to be fully immersed.

If the finish is an oxide finish — like some old black oxide/Parkerized finishes — do NOT use Evapo-Rust. It’ll strip the oxide back to bare metal, ‘cause it doesn’t know the difference between that finish and corrosion.

Yes, warmer temperatures definitely speed up the reaction with rust. It’s quite dramatic. A general rule of thumb in chemistry is that a 10°C increase in temperature will double a reaction rate. Evapo-Rust is at least that, and probably more.

macgee, those are great examples of what Evapo-Rust can do. And your polycarbonate collander tray is a terrific idea.



Good info on the oxide finishes and yes, get a gallon or two not have to worry about having enough, makes life easier and you can do so many things in the shop with that much. It's been making a lot more sense.

I'm now noticing massive improvements when using a heated ultrasonic cleaner that goes up to 80°C, I usually use 50C. When I pull the hot degreased item out of the cleaner, rinse with fresh water, it dries in seconds and then immerse the hot item into Evaporust. I sometimes can get away with just 1hr or less of evaporust bathing with really good results, instead of three-six hrs.

Full immersion is very key and even how you position the item in the bath. You will get a bad etched black line on the item at the water level if part of it is sticking out.

I've been really happy with the polycarbonate bin and airtight pressed in lid, I think I've ben using this same batch of Evapor in the bin since February and still going strong after a lot of use. Mind you I now immerse very warm items in the bath so that could be why I'm still getting good results and I'm vigilantly keeping the evaporust sealed and not exposed to air which does really seems to weaken it very quickly. I haven't been cleaning/filtering my Evapor, the crud settles below the colander floor so not as big as an issue but I should be filtering out but I use a full gallon and thats a lot to filter..

Anyways, please report any new good deals on Evaporust since thats what this thread is about.
 
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macgee

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Sawdust_

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I don't like to use steel or brass wire wheels although I do use extra steps to get them shiny like it in the pics. Your items out of a proper bath will be light-dark grey but they quickly shine afterwards with some easy extra steps.

Okay Macgee share your "extra steps" you get amazing results. Are you using emory? wet sanding? buffing?
 

Crabman

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macgee,

Thanks for the thoughtful posts. My Evaporust results have been inconsistent. On reflection, my application techniques have also been inconsistent. It is always best to have a plan, and you made me think about the fact that I need a more consistent plan with this product.

Bruce
 

macgee

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Okay Macgee share your "extra steps" you get amazing results. Are you using emory? wet sanding? buffing?

macgee,

Thanks for the thoughtful posts. It is always best to have a plan, and you made me think about the fact that I need a more consistent plan with this product.

Bruce

Your welcome and thanks for the post.

I think I pretty much already mentioned everything. When using Evaporust and to get the most out of it, just remember to prepare the item; any grease or gunk on the item will prevent Evaporust reaching the metal and doing its job, remove any degreaser on item before bathing it, Lastly heat is your friend! (big difference between a cold winter night and a hot summer day) but not boiling hot.

Giving it enough time to work but not too much especially on a hot day. If it turns black then it was bathing for too long. Always Keeping Evaporust sealed and airtight is very important. When item is hot, you bath it for a lot less time.

Sawdust, I'm not using much more that I didn't already wrote but I do have to keep some secrets :) I don't use emery cloth, wet sand or buffing on the items you see above although I do for different situations.

Secret: 6" dia. " 220 & 400 3M Bristle Brush" wheels is what I use almost exclusively after Evaporust as the final finish, I really try to always avoid any metal wire wheels, if I do it's at the beginning when the item is heavily or stubbornly covered with gunk, large rust clusters and only feathering the wheel lightly on it, they can really pit the surface. I instead use a LOT fresh new razor blades (usa made) to remove rust on flat surfaces, its the best when used at a sharp angle. Also soft usa made brass wire brushes (wood handled) to remove gunk from threads and nooks and crannies. The cheap asian ones are too stiff usually and not even real brass. Also dental cleaning tools are used every time and daily in my shop for cleaning out gunk in those very hard to reach spots.

Because items coming out so shiny (almost too shiny) after a good bath session then bristle brush wheels that I rarely use a buffing wheel afterwards or needed except when specifically called out for, I'll hit the ends of bolts with a flap wheel, then bristle brush wheels and then a buffing wheel as it's really quick to do and the smooth finish helps reduce rust building up in the rough lows; as seen in the pics in this post of vise bolts and vintage hammers.

If anyone buys a gallon for cheap, let me know how it worked.
 

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Crabman

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Giving it enough time to work but not too much especially on a hot day. If it turns black then it was bathing for too long

I guess this is why the items I walk away from and forget about are black!

Ballpark how long to soak before checking?

Thanks much. I am working on some old USA tools that were in the garage of my old house when it burned down. Could not bear to throw out Mac wrenches, some of my dad's old Craftsman stuff, etc. This gives me new hope on my salvage operation.

Bruce
 

macgee

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I guess this is why the items I walk away from and forget about are black!

Ballpark how long to soak before checking?

Thanks much.
Bruce

Very tough to say as there some variables that greatly effect performance/time.

But if you follow the above suggestions, then somewhere between 1.5 - 8 hrs. Sorry for the long spread but it greatly depends on freshness of bath, heat temp and how bad the items are. Some metals react really differently than others; sometimes I've done 12hrs but thats extreme and mostly because I forgot about it or its very cold out :) Most of what I spoke about is with cast iron, Bubbled chrome or hardened steel will be very different. Best to first do a test batch and see what time works best and then recreate conditions. Make sure you have a slight gap between tool and tub floor and not touching others items; avoid having the item stick out above the liquid, it will etch a distinct black line on item if you have to turn it regularly.

Tools caught in house fires are the worst to deal with as several things are going on that is very different than an item just being left outside getting rusted but still very doable and worthwhile. Good luck
 
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jake28

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This thread inspired me to get an ultrasonic cleaner. Top 5 tool purchases ever. Thank you all. My garage is steadily being depleted of rusty ****.
 

dodge610

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Just ordered 2 gallons from amazon to give it a try and see how it works out. I have a lot of rusty stuff that came in tool boxes i bought hoping it will restore the tools.
 
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