I had originally intended to leave the floors of the Atomic Industry World HQ natural. The idea being that natural concrete works perfectly with our overall industrial lo...
To read the rest of this blog entry from The Garage Journal, click here.
- Thread starter Ryan
- Start date
I had originally intended to leave the floors of the Atomic Industry World HQ natural. The idea being that natural concrete works perfectly with our overall industrial lo...
To read the rest of this blog entry from The Garage Journal, click here.
Mikie
Well-known member
That looks, GREAT! Still looks like it's wet...
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
This is our HD-356VOC Urethane Sealer. Extremely durable product, excellent for garage floors as the chemical resistance is very high. Glad it worked out!!
Here is a direct link to the product:
http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/hd356voc-urethane-sealer-1-gal-p-179.html
Here is a direct link to the product:
http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/hd356voc-urethane-sealer-1-gal-p-179.html
75Shark
Active member
How does this hold up to vehicle traffic?
Weps
Well-known member
this is exactly the look i wanted for my garage, but couldn't get an answer on what to do. polishing the concrete was the direction people wanted me to go. i much prefer the idea of a urethane. thanks.
btw, the toledo stools are a nice touch too.
btw, the toledo stools are a nice touch too.
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
This product has excellent abrasion resistance, much better than epoxy. Vehicle traffic is not a problem.
SUHRsc
Member
How is the traction with wet feet?
OP
It looks wet, so you think it would be slick... It's not really. The floor has traction characteristics similar to a basketball court if that makes sense... Wet feet might make it slick - I dunno, my feet are dry!
As for the Toledo stools, those are one of my prize possessions. The came out of the same Ford plant that produced the 1932 Ford. I'll feature them eventually.
peelman
Well-known member
Looks awesome! How thick is the coating? You mention inch-thick ice in the OP, but surely its not that thick? How would it stand up to gasoline and/or other solvents once cured?
At my high school (long ago) they would wax the hallways with at least an inch of wax towards the end of every summer. The floors would actually "bowl" out over the course of the year as the wax wore off, but you could only tell if you were really looking for it. It always amazed me how thick that **** was, we chipped some up with a screwdriver one day outside of the ag shop, just because we got curious. Those pictures reminded me of the look those hallways had when we'd return in the fall. Within two weeks they'd be perpetually scuffed and wouldn't shine like that, but for the first week or so they always looked "wet".
At my high school (long ago) they would wax the hallways with at least an inch of wax towards the end of every summer. The floors would actually "bowl" out over the course of the year as the wax wore off, but you could only tell if you were really looking for it. It always amazed me how thick that **** was, we chipped some up with a screwdriver one day outside of the ag shop, just because we got curious. Those pictures reminded me of the look those hallways had when we'd return in the fall. Within two weeks they'd be perpetually scuffed and wouldn't shine like that, but for the first week or so they always looked "wet".
OP
I have no idea how thick it is... Certainly nowhere near an inch or even a 1/4-inch, but it sure looks it.
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Probably 2-3 wet mils per coat. Urethanes are relatively thin.
If you anticipate wet conditions we have "soft-skid" that can be back-rolled into the coating. It won't shred a mop and gives good resistance to slippery conditions.
Link:
http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/soft-skid-antiskid-additive-p-189.html
If you anticipate wet conditions we have "soft-skid" that can be back-rolled into the coating. It won't shred a mop and gives good resistance to slippery conditions.
Link:
http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/soft-skid-antiskid-additive-p-189.html
grail21
Well-known member
Man that really looks great, nice stuff.
HOTFR8
Banned
Once again looking good.
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Depends.
New concrete with steel trowel finish: 2500 PSI even pressure washing
New concrete with power-trowel finish: light acid etch
Old concrete with coatings: grind clean
Old concrete with no coatings: grind. light etch or 2500 PSI even pressure wash
The concrete can't be real smooth.
Yes, this is an alternative to an epoxy coating. It definitely will out-perform the epoxy in the chemical resistance and abrasion resistance category.
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I would think it would mark. However, we have not tested it against sparks or slag. If you are doing heavy welding I would recommend a welding blanket, steel sheeting or think about a penetrating sealer like a densifier.
Charles (in GA)
Well-known member
Problem is, I want color, something like a very light grey, so light will be reflected up from the floor to help illuminate the underside of car on lift, lower shelf of workbenches, whatever. The more reflected light the better.
This is clear, is this made with solids in it to give it color? Not looking for all the fancy stuff like flakes, just light color for reflected light.
Charles
This is clear, is this made with solids in it to give it color? Not looking for all the fancy stuff like flakes, just light color for reflected light.
Charles
Nealcrenshaw
Well-known member
Is two coats recommended or will one coat provide the same benefits? ALso curious if you have any pics with the softskid added in. I want the slip resistance but i want this look more.
This is just a clear coat, not a paint like epoxy.
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I would put down (2) coats of our thin-mil epoxy (HD-015) and (2) coats of this HD-356VOC urethane. Should do the trick nicely without breaking the bank.
Link to HD-015: http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/epoxy-coating-hd015-1-gal-p-207.html
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LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
If you want an even gloss you need (2) coats.
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
If you want colors, flakes, smoothness, thickness, then choose a pigmented epoxy with this as a topcoat. link to coating kit: http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/standard-garage-system-p-230.html
If you want clear, smoothness and thickness then apply a thick coat of clear epoxy with this as the top-coat.
link to clear epoxy: http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/hd137muv-clear-coating-15-gal-p-202.html
If you want a clear to cover your colored concrete, stained concrete, natural concrete choose this as a stand alone.
This product is hard as nails but is only 4-5 mils thick with (2) coats. It will not hide any imperfections in your floor.
The trend right now is for natural looking floors. This product coupled with Ryan's natural looking concrete was a perfect match.
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Nighttrain
Well-known member
Was there a stain applied to the floor before the urethane sealer? If so what color and brand? Looks great.
SUHRsc
Member
OP
There is no stain at all...
. I will have to check in to LegacyIndustrial's products. Great job on the World HQ!Tman
Well-known member
Man, that shop is really coming around!
Wingnutz
Member
Is this a 1, 2, or 3 part?
Very toxic petroleum, chemical, or a laytex base?
Can this be applied over sand pebble base?
Very toxic petroleum, chemical, or a laytex base?
Can this be applied over sand pebble base?
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Solvent based urethane.
Sand pebble base?
Is this for a patio?
Sand pebble base?
Is this for a patio?
JeffreyJames
Active member
I have a similar product applied to our offices and at first it looked awesome but then after a year it started coming off in sheet under where the chairs roll around.
NOTE: This is more then likely due to the person that applied it and not the product. I am sure the floors were not cleaned to the level that the Atomic Ind. HQs were.
Looking great man!
NOTE: This is more then likely due to the person that applied it and not the product. I am sure the floors were not cleaned to the level that the Atomic Ind. HQs were.
Looking great man!
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I will answer on Ryan's behalf. The color you see is the natural patina and color of Ryan's concrete. Concrete color can vary from the materials used to make it and if it's older it can have natural stains in it.
Ryan's color can be replicated by using acid stain. If you apply it in an inconsistent fashion you can make it look more natural.
We have acid stain on our site if you need it.
Omphaloskeptic
Well-known member
Ryan, finished floor...fabulous!
I do wish there was video/picture thread detailing the entire process. From who did what when, how they did it, the chemicals, tools, power equipment used, time involved with each step, total square footage covered, how much of each product was purchased/used, lessons learned, masking/protecting adjacent surfaces, filling expansion joints, product compatibility, the whole nine yards.... I fully realize each concrete floor has its own particular challenges that determine that particular prep/application process, but overall, it would be good to know all the details of one particular example.
I will search the flooring forum for such an account, but it seems everyone is talking epoxy and I really like the basic one product, one step, approach to achieve an industrial, yet attractive, work surface.
I do wish there was video/picture thread detailing the entire process. From who did what when, how they did it, the chemicals, tools, power equipment used, time involved with each step, total square footage covered, how much of each product was purchased/used, lessons learned, masking/protecting adjacent surfaces, filling expansion joints, product compatibility, the whole nine yards.... I fully realize each concrete floor has its own particular challenges that determine that particular prep/application process, but overall, it would be good to know all the details of one particular example.
I will search the flooring forum for such an account, but it seems everyone is talking epoxy and I really like the basic one product, one step, approach to achieve an industrial, yet attractive, work surface.