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The Transamarobird swallows another victim!

A_Pmech

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This time it's a US Electrical Tool Model 500 pedestal grinder from GJ member Arnie.

:D

Disassembled in Arnie's driveway:

grinder1.jpg


All the parts boxed and jammed into the car:

grinder2.jpg


Back home at the shop, already disassembled and ready for overhaul!

grinder3.jpg


I'll call US Electrical tool tomorrow and see if they can tell me when it was built!

This one will get a sandblast, paint, new bearings, a new motor starter and disco and a custom-built pedestal.

:beer:
 
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A_Pmech

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What year do you think it is?

Good question!

I'll take a guess and say it's 1950's, but it could be as early as mid 1946, which is the date printed on the heater table inside the manual motor starter mounted to the grinder.

2oolhound said:
Sweet! What HP? How much? ( you may just ****) Looks skookum!

It's the 1 HP 3-phase Model 500, which runs a 12" by 1.5" wheel at 1800 RPM. Weight is around 300lbs more or less.
 
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Amitygravel

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John
Very cool! But really.
With all the projects you come up with ,

Transamarobird ? Isn't it time for it to become

Transamarobirdmino?!

Craig
 
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OccupantRJ

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This time it's a US Electrical Tool Model 500 pedestal grinder from GJ member Arnie.



:D

Disassembled in Arnie's driveway:

grinder1.jpg


All the parts boxed and jammed into the car:

grinder2.jpg


Back home at the shop, already disassembled and ready for overhaul!

grinder3.jpg


I'll call US Electrical tool tomorrow and see if they can tell me when it was built!

This one will get a sandblast, paint, new bearings, a new motor starter and disco and a custom-built pedestal.

:beer:

Larry G is SOOO going to give you hell for hauling that thing in your car seat!
 

OccupantRJ

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I have 3 of my shop tools mounted on salvaged bases from Stimpson riveters. Just the right height, and heavy enough to stay put. ddawg 16 commented on them when he visited. I used a grinder like yours for about 8 years when I was fabricating. Now I don't want anything larger than a 7 inch for tool sharpening, and use a handheld for everything else.
 

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z28snksknr

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as a proud owner of a 4th gen camaro, I have always been impressed with the cargo capacity of the front passenger seat (dates not included).
 
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A_Pmech

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John
Very cool! But really.
With all the projects you come up with ,

Transamarobird ? Isn't it time for it to become

Transamarobirdmino?!

Craig

:D

The idea of an El Camaro keeps popping into my head...

el-camaro.jpg


Occupant RJ said:
I have 3 of my shop tools mounted on salvaged bases from Stimpson riveters. Just the right height, and heavy enough to stay put. ddawg 16 commented on them when he visited. I used a grinder like yours for about 8 years when I was fabricating. Now I don't want anything larger than a 7 inch for tool sharpening, and use a handheld for everything else.

Interesting stand idea! I was studying the original stand a few weeks ago and I'm planning to fabricate one from 1/8" and 3/4" plate. It's a fairly simple truncated cone shape:

500h.jpg


Blind Viper said:
I think someone has quite a few projects to finish...or at least update

Ahh yes! It's warm out and the projects are coming in hot and heavy. I'm back on building the parquet floor I started last year. Just got the woodworking machines set up yesterday.

I'm also starting new punch, hammer and tap chart groups!

I get a lot done when it's warm out.

:thumbup:


z28snksknr said:
as a proud owner of a 4th gen camaro, I have always been impressed with the cargo capacity of the front passenger seat (dates not included).

So far I haven't gone over 400 lbs. or so in the front seat area. I can say the car doesn't squat very much with that weight.
 
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A_Pmech

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Just got off the phone with Coleen and US Electrical Tool.

My grinder, serial# 39 43 55 was produced December 1946 as one of an order of 14, likely for the US Government. The motor was manufactured by Lima, who is long since out of business.

New tool rest castings should be available, but she strongly suggests I send one of the originals in so they can match them up to their current stock.

A comparable Model 500 sells new for roughly $5,000 depending on options.

:thumbup:
 

OccupantRJ

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Here's another ready-made stand idea that come from a Priess pantograph engraver from work that was scrapped. Guess who got to take it home?
 

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A_Pmech

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I got a little work done on the grinder today between sessions making flooring. (More on that later in another thread.)

To remove a couple of the bolts I had to grind a cheap-o socket to a much thinner wall than standard:

grinder4.jpg


Then, I took off the bearing shields:

grinder5.jpg


After the bearing shields I removed the bearing retainer nuts using a brass punch and a hammer. These were too tight from gunk to remove with a pin spanner while simultaneously holding the rotor from turning:

grinder6.jpg


The housing can then be pried apart with two thin prybars or large screwdrivers:

grinder7.jpg


One end bell with the rotor shaft still pressed inside:

Grinder8.jpg


The stator. Although I'm told the machine was likely functional, I'm considering rewinding it. After all, it is 65 years old. By the time I'm ready to part with it the wiring will likely be over 115 years old. I'd rather rewind it now than later!

grinder9.jpg
 

OccupantRJ

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As for myself, if the lashings are in good shape, I'd run that sucker until it told me it needed rewinding. If you do have it rewound, be aware that many shops will rewind back to a three wire configuration for the one voltage you are running, unless you request otherwise.
 
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A_Pmech

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Do you think you can get copper wire as good as that these days?

Hi 2oolhound,

Today's wire insulation is far superior to what was available in the 1940's. As for the copper itself, the elemental makeup of the copper conductor hasn't really changed. It's still 100% copper, or very close to it.

OccupantRJ said:
As for myself, if the lashings are in good shape, I'd run that sucker until it told me it needed rewinding. If you do have it rewound, be aware that many shops will rewind back to a three wire configuration for the one voltage you are running, unless you request otherwise.

Too late now! :D

What's this business about having the motor rewound anyhow?

:)
 

OccupantRJ

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Hi 2oolhound,

Today's wire insulation is far superior to what was available in the 1940's. As for the copper itself, the elemental makeup of the copper conductor hasn't really changed. It's still 100% copper, or very close to it.



Too late now! :D

What's this business about having the motor rewound anyhow?

:)

This is going to get interesting.......
 
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A_Pmech

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Last night I put together most of the data I need for the rewind:

Bearings: New Departure 77206 crosses to SKF 206 2Z
RPM: 1,800
Amps: 5.5
HP: 1
Phase: 3
Cycle: 60
Voltage: 220-440
Winding Connections: Star
Coil Span: 7 slots (Pitch 1-8)
Winding Type: Distributed
Coil Shape: Round Nose
# of Poles: 4
# of Slots: 36
# of Coils: 36
# of Coil Groups: 12
Coils / Group: 3
Turns Per Coil: 45
# in hand: 1
End Room: 1-3/8" Front 1-1/2" Back
Lead Wire Size: 16ga
Lead Wire Length: 12"
Coil Wire Size: 22ga

If I have some time tonight I'll start stripping the core and filling in the rest of the rewind data.
 
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A_Pmech

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Cutting out the connection side of the coils:

grinder10.jpg


The new motor insulation. 5-10-5 Mylar, interphase paper, fiberglass coil tape and new type XR lead wire:

grinder11.jpg


Burning out the core now. In a few days it will be ready for walnut shell blasting.
 

scott37300

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I've always wondered how they rewind a motor. Great thread and once again your skills are nothing short of amazing. I was reading the flooring thread last night and all I can say is wow. Looking forward to as much detail as you can share about rewinding that motor.

:beer:
 

reinhardt

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after spending approx 16 hours detailing my 02 z28 last weekend, it makes me sad to see that maro getting that kind of use. then again, mine is 33k original miles and super clean.

anywho cool bench grinder.

ben
 
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A_Pmech

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after spending approx 16 hours detailing my 02 z28 last weekend, it makes me sad to see that maro getting that kind of use. then again, mine is 33k original miles and super clean.

anywho cool bench grinder.

ben

That one is just my daily driver / mule.

A southern / western Z-28 is likely in the future. I prefer the 94-97 years though. It will be treated very well.

Oh ya... It must be black. ALL black.

:D
 
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reinhardt

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mine is blue w/ tan leather interior w/ the 6 spd. i like the ls1 that came in the 98-02's. i get 28 mpg on the highway to boot! here in va rust isn't really an issue, but this one has been garage kept all it's life anyways. super clean! anywho, again nice grinder.

ben
 
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A_Pmech

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I got the core stripped out and laid in the base insulation today.

To begin, here's the core after stripping the varnish with my special concoction of caustics and pulling the first few coils. I decided to strip the core chemically rather than the traditional method of burning out the core as it is the least likely to damage the core lamination insulation, which increases core loss:

grinder12.jpg


Coil pulling proceeds by using a long screwdriver to start the coil moving:

grinder13.jpg


Once the coil is broken loose it can be pulled clear of the slot with water pump pliers leveraged off the motor frame:

grinder14.jpg


After pulling all the coils and the base insulation it's time for blasting. Walnut shells are used for this process as it they are not hard enough to peen the iron core laminations together, causing a core short and increasing core loss just like an insulation failure:

grinder15.jpg


Here it is after blasting with walnut shells:

grinder16.jpg


While pulling the coils I retained samples of the coil and base insulation for measuring. The wire count on the back side of the frame is 46, which equals 45 full turns per coil:

grinder17.jpg


Next, I straightened a few of the core laminations that were bent during the pulling operation. Some bending of the outer few laminations is unavoidable due to the amount of force required to pull the coils free. That task complete I cut strips of DMD on the shear. The advantage to keeping your sheet metal shear sharp and in good order is you can cut more than just sheet metal with it!

grinder18.jpg


The strips got cut into rectangles on a paper cutter. Motor shops use a shear that looks just like a paper cutter but has a 3' long blade honed to a razor edge:

grinder19.jpg


Finally, the rectangles were pre-formed on a mandrel and inserted into the slots. This is the first layer of coil insulation:

grinder20.jpg


Once my magnet wire and varnish arrives I can begin winding coils. In the meantime I'll put together my coil winding mandrel.
 

mjozefow

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This is looking less complicated but more tedious than I thought. Seems like an it is all about having your ducks in a row.
 
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A_Pmech

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v-e-r-y interesting, lota work but v-e-r-y interesting.

It's actually rather relaxing. :)

91bronc300 said:
This is definitely something you don't see every day.

Not these days with "disposable" motors!

mjozefow said:
This is looking less complicated but more tedious than I thought. Seems like an it is all about having your ducks in a row.

It depends on the motor. Small polyphase induction motors are extremely simple. The complicated part is wiring the coils correctly. I'll post the connection diagram later and then you'll see what I mean!
 
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