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30 x 40 Garage build

ktm010

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The garage build site was was started in november 2010 with one big problem, a large boulder on the mound which needed to be removed where the garage is to go. Here are some pictures.
 

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ktm010

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After stumps and rock removel, mound needed to be leveled, tried compact tractor which started out good till we hit some hardy rocks, not that I was surprized not to much dirt around here. I had to get some larger equipment which still had trouble.
 

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ktm010

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We got lucky with the small hammer and was able to get to the grade we needed, here are some of the rocks.
 

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ktm010

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Time for lots of crushed stone and some compacting, bringing things up to level. this is why I went with a slab vs trying to drill 20 some holes for poles. Also trench for utilities dug readu for some conduit.
 

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ktm010

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Taking shape
 

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ktm010

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Time for forms and 3" XPS foam on inside of forms, 6 mill plastic, drain tile for perimeter, some rebar, mesh, 2" XPS foam for floor. Also pex tubing for heat layed in.
 

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ktm010

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Pressure test holding at 60 psi, I did leave room for a lift just in case, time for concrete,
 

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jwillis

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Nice job!! I would try to keep some of those rocks for landscaping decoration. They look neat out in the yard. Good luck!!
 
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ktm010

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Update, one course 8" block with cap block. lumber delivered.
 

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Omphaloskeptic

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Wow, that's some pretty (rocky) country you live in! What part of the country is your rock quarry located? I don't think you have to worry about your foundation sinking into the earth. lol
 

GT500 P71

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Great progress so far, I will be interested in seeing the finished product!

Interesting that you went with the block footer as opposed to a poured one, as most people seem to do the latter. Was it significantly cheaper?

Take care!

-Nathan
 
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ktm010

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My quarry is located in upstate NY and the rocks are for sale !!!. As far as the blocks, forming up with 2x12's then using them for headers seemed the simple way of doing it. Plus my help was more familier doing it that way.
 
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ktm010

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Ready to frame some walls, 2x6's with OSB sheathing.
 

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ktm010

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Some progress today set the trusses, and sheathed half the roof.:)
 

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Zengineer

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Any more info? How high are your walls (looks like 10')? The proportions don't look 30x40, is it just the camera playing tricks or did you change the dimensions slightly?

Looks awesome either way!!
 
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ktm010

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Size is 30 x 40, 10' walls, scissor trusses over the overhead doors giving a 13'6" center height, attic trusses over remainder shop area. I had no fancy plans drawn up, just ideas from this site. I'll have lots of questions and will be looking for idea's from those who have followed so far. I hope to get the roof shingled and move to the inside.
 

Old Gas Nut

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That's looking nice. That had to be frustrating getting rid of the rocks. Makes me appreciate my rock free yard. What size are your garage doors? Looks like it's going to be a nice size building to work in. Keep the pics coming.
 
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jlckmj

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Dec 7, 2009
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SE Wiscosin
After reading this thread and seeing what you had to do to get rid of those rocks, I will quit complaining about having to remove 18-24 inches of nice black top soil and replacing it with $2,000 in stone in order to get my pad poured on solid ground.

Good job, it is starting to look great!

Jim
 
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ktm010

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Garage door size is 10 x 8, the rock I was trying to dismantle in the opening thread was one of many, happend to be the largest from digging for the house foundation 22 years ago. I also used over 3 tri-axle loads of crushed stone to fill in the over dug holes, and bring areas back up to grade, plus back filling for good drainage
 
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00si2

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Jan 29, 2009
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Pittsburgh, Pa
The garage build site was was started in november 2010 with one big problem, a large boulder on the mound which needed to be removed where the garage is to go. Here are some pictures.

I had a rock problem before my build also. The largest being 32' x 16' and about 6' thick right where i wanted to build. I used what are called feathers and wedges and broke it down into more managable sizes.

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DSC_5085.jpg
 
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ktm010

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Nice job with the wedges, I will have to try them always looking for a way to shape or downsize rocks.
 

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ktm010

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Garage update, roof finally on. Looking for advise on loft, should I box it in and use pull down stairs or leave it open and access from the garage from a ladder.:headscrat Closed off easier to insulate, storage would be clean, save on flimsy stair cost. Open, easier to put things up thru large opening, things will get dirty or dusty depending on what goes on below.
 

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85cj7boy

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Mar 18, 2011
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I vote you put sliding barn doors on the attic with a barn door track built into the peak of the building so you can hoist stuff up there. Then build a ladder into the wall on the far side so you can climb up into the loft. Kinda like alot of barns are.
 

SeanM

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I have a 32x34 which is plenty of sq ft for me. Although I wish I laid mine out like yours
 

dave67fd

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Southern NH
ktm010,
Shop is looking great. I know the hassle with the rocks coming from the "Granite state".
What are your ideas for Heat? Will your elec. sevice come from the house or seperate. Sorry if i missed if you already mentioned it.
Dave
 
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ktm010

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Radiant pex in floor, hoping to use that someday. Electric will be run from house.
 
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ktm010

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Has anyone used metal soffit and facia vs aluminium. I priced the aluminium and I have to purchase full cartons due to the color I want, so I will be stuck with lot's of extra. I thought of pricing metal, I will have metal siding on the walls with some cedar and cultured stone on the front to go with the house. I'am sure working with metal will be tougher, if I can save some money I'll have no choice.
 

Omphaloskeptic

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Ultima Ratio, Wa.
In regard to your loft access - I don't know if anyone on GJ has done this, but if you sprung for the lift, wouldn't it be cool for it to also be the 'elevator' for loading/unloading the loft via an inside hayloft sliding door?
 
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ktm010

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The bay next to the loft is the side prepped for a two post lift :headscrat
 
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ktm010

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Only progress lately is the overhead doors.
 

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schwalby

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I vote you put sliding barn doors on the attic with a barn door track built into the peak of the building so you can hoist stuff up there. Then build a ladder into the wall on the far side so you can climb up into the loft. Kinda like alot of barns are.

I like this idea. I was going to say something similar just with pull down stairs instead of a ladder but I guess it depends on how oftern you will be going up there.
 
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ktm010

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Applied some 29 guage metal to overhead door frames and applied the weather strip, also wrapped the frame on the entry door. Now at least weather tight for the winter. :)
 

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Darkboones

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Jul 5, 2010
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Grand Rapids, MI
I am still in my planing stages and would like to have kind of the same set up as you have here with tall ceiling but also a loft. Can't wait to see more!
 

tkbowman

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Jan 19, 2008
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Burien, WA
When I built my garage, I installed a large eye bolt in the ridge to serve as a pulling point plus the ridge was re-inforced for use in pulling actions.

I would vote for leaving the loft open for storage (especially large, bulky and light items). A fitted tarp or banner could be used to close off the opening to reduce the dust transfer.
 

bileshake

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Oct 20, 2009
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Ontario Canada
I'm currently building the same size shop as we're building our house. Complete with 10' doors on the side, scissor trusses on one bay 40' x 30'.
 

texasranger

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Dec 29, 2011
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Maryland
What is the load rating of the loft area? Would be awesome to store sleds up there in the summer and jet skis in the winter.

I really like your layout, my dad has a 30x40 pole building but the doors are on the short side which is great pulling in his RV but I think doors on the long side like yours would be better the other 95% of the time.
 
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