Beginners guide to Screwdrivers, Drivers, and Drive tools

Here's another one for all of us. I was faced with the daunting task of trying to find some screwdrivers the other day and again, encountered foreign terms and alien objects (I'm looking at you Wera screwdriver handles!) so I compiled a list. As always, if you have questions, comments, concerns, complaints, animosities or somethings just not right, let me know via PM, or add a friendly comment that won't lead other newcomers to confusion. I will periodically update and edit this and add jump-to links or correct broken links as needed but, it may take some time.

This is NOT a list of screw drive types, head types, or bolt types. For those check out the links at the bottom as well as the works cited for more resources. I do intended on adding that later however, that's for another time and another place.

A significant thanks goes to user @plinker for providing the plethora of information he has contributed. If the description seems accurate to a "T", it's probably provided by him, or at least in-part by him.

<a name="crv"></a>CR-V;
Chrome Vanadium. This basically means the bit, shaft, or other metal parts on the tool is made of Chromium Vanadium. Tools stamped prominently or adviertised as such are usually sub-par BUT, many novice users think it sounds impressive. Often misspelled Chrome Vandium.

<a name="crmo"></a>CR-MO or CRMO;
Chromium-Molybdenum also sometimes Chromoly Steel. Rated as 41XX Steel by SAE. This is a type of steel used in tools. This is a step up from CR-V and is usually not as prominently displayed on tools. There are several grades of steel that fall in the CR-MO term. For more information, check out the Wikipedia page for 41XX steel.

<a name="shaft"></a>Shaft or Shank, also Blade;
The metal piece of the driver that holds the bit(s) or has the head of the driver. One end of the shaft is in the handle (usually flanged) and the other has the fastener driver. (Flips, flat head, torx, posi-drive, etc...) ~Although blade is usually attributed to the business end of the driver, many refer to the entire exposed metal part as the blade.~
-edited by @plinker 2/2/2012. Added blade

<a name="split-blade"></a>Split-Blade;
This is essentially as the name implies. The blade of the screwdriver has 2 "tips". They usually apply force and torque at the edges of the fastener allowing for a different pressure/force to be applied. These are commonly used as "starters" for fastners but, are often not used for tightening bolts down. Common in the electrical industry.

<a name="cushion"></a>Cushion-Grip;
Means there is a rubber, or similar, element around the majority of the handle. Cushion grip tools can give you more usable force on a stuck/tough fastener by alleviating some of the fatigue commonly found using standard, non-cushioned handles. Cushion-Grpp drivers DO have hard plastic handles, end-caps and ferrules, just a rubber cover/coating over the bulk of the handle. Primarily a Klein tools thing but others use the term too.

<a name="ferrule"></a>Ferrule;
This is the part of a screwdriver where the shaft and handle meet. There is usually ribbing on ferrules as well as contours for your fingers to fit in while you drive fasteners. But also, internally, there is definition in the shaft to ensure it stays solid in the high stress or torque use.

<a name="bolster"></a>Bolster or bolstered;
A "nut" or Hex screw/plug at the top of the shaft of a screwdriver, directly below the ferrule--usually at the handle base. This allows you to use a wrench to apply a bit extra torque and force to a stubborn fastener you are encountering.

<a name="tri-lobe"></a>Tri-Lobe;
Handle design that has a triangular shape. Some love the Tri-lobe, some don't. There are 3 primary points and they are usually symmetrical BUT, symmetry is not required in tri-lobes.

<a name="flange"></a>Integral flanges;
These are 'wings' that are on the shaft of the driver within the handle. It's what keeps the shaft secure with the handle and prevents the shaft from getting stuck/rounded out of the driver handle. It's what keeps the handle and shaft working together against the fastener.

<a name="spinner"></a>Spinner, Spin-handle, or spinner handle;
May have a Bolster on them for extra leverage. In screwdrivers, Spinner handles are commonly used with ¼" drive sockets as a nut driver. They usually have a receiver for ¼" drive tools on the top/end of the handle (called drive-through spinner handles), bolster with the ferrule (top of the shaft). The shaft usually goes through the handle if it has a receiver on the handle. Can be used as socket extensions. Not to be confused with speeder or speeder bar mechanics/drive tools.

<a name="flute"></a>Flute, or Fluted handle;
The term fluted refers to an ergonomically designed handle with a slip resistant textured grip. These handles have ridges and divots. Most drivers with fluted handles have panels that are different colors. i.e. craftsman philips have blue and clear panels and their flat heads have red and clear panels.

added tagging and anchors 2/15/2012

<a name="chiseldriver"></a>Chiseldriver;
These are drivers that usually have a metal plate or, at the very least, a very durable/solid reinforced cap at the end/top of the handle. These are designed to be hammered to allow greater force as well as to apply a very abrupt shock to stuck and stubbourn fasteners. Similar to manual http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=135218#man.impactImpact Drivers. Also, not to be confused with prybars or striking prybars. (The prybars with the hard handles opposite the business end)

<a name="prybar"></a>Prybar and Striking prybar;
These are NOT drive tools but, have similar handle designs so I will cover them. A prybar is essentially a one-sided crowbar with a handle on the other end--handle opposite the business-end. They work great when you need to pry something apart and hold it in said position for a length of time. Striking prybar is a prybar that has a metal end-cap on the handle similar to a chiseldriver allowing the tool to hammered on for great force driving the bar between objects. Sometimes even called scrapers due to their similarity to putty knives, floor scrapers, etc...

<a name="keystone"></a>Keystone or Keyston Tip;
This is a flat-head screwdriver where the tip flares out/widens at the end of the shaft where the bit holder/tip starts. It then narrows down to the blade tip. These are the most common flat-head driver types and allow more force/torque, in general, than a cabinet tip.

<a name="rotodriver"></a>Rotating or Rotary screwdriver;
A screwdriver that in larger sizes usually have a bent shaft/shank the moves/revolves freely in the handle. These drivers are made to allow rapid installation of longer screws that are not subject to great force or resistance. (i.e. driving a machine screw on an outlet into an outlet box) In jewelers rotary screwdrivers, the shaft and handle are attatched but the 'cap' of a screwdriver freely rotates allowing easy downward force on the driver and thus, the fastener but also maintain easy turning with fingers/finger tips. It is also possible to have rotary screwdrivers that have a free-spinning shaft and "knob/dial at the base of the handle to allow the operators palm to apply downward force and fingertips to turn the knob/dial.

<a name"yankee"></a>Yankee Screwdriver;
This is a tool from years gone by. It is a driver that has a shaft that is rifled and spirals into the handle as you apply downward force (push) on the handle. This tool predates the ratchet and electric screwdrivers. It is used primarily in mild to moderate driving of screws but it becomes difficult to drive tight fasteners into material with these. It is used in an up-and-down, pumping motion/action.

<a name="stubby"></a>Stubby/midget screwdriver;
These are short (1" ish shaft handle to tip), usually fat (standard handle size) drivers that usually have normal sized/standard tips.

<a name="longblade"></a>Long blade;
These are drivers that have extended shafts. Usually >8 inches but, this varries on the standard sizes of that drive type. (i.e. a long handle torx driver may only need to be 8" but a blade/flat head would be 10")

<a name="recessedtip"></a>Recessed head/tip;
A driver where the tip/bit holder is set into the shaft. Often used to alleviate slippage/camming out on fasteners as well as on combination head fasteners. There are also some specialty fasteners that use recessed tip drivers.

<a name="coatdriver"></a>Coated shaft/driver;
Used for circuit protection. These ARE NOT insulated drivers, the coating only allows minimal protection from circuits shorting out from the driver toughing them.

<a name="insulated"></a>Insulated drivers;
These drivers are coated with think insulation or simply made with a non-conductive composite material to allow the driver to be used on live circuits and minimize the risk of shock and injusry. It is still a VERY BAD idea to work on live circuits and these should only be used when the unsure if there are live circuits in the area you are working BUT, after all KNOWN power has been disconnected.

<a name="screw.start"></a>Screw Starter;
This is an interesting tool and not hugely common as a stand-alone driver. They are magnetized and have a twisted bit on the drive end that hold the fastener to the driver; the twisted bit portion increases the surface area and friction on the fastener. Some have a strong(er)magnet on the reverse of the driver for picking up hard-to-reach, dropped or misplaced fasteners.

<a name="screw.guide"></a>Screw Guide;
These were made popular by DeWalt. They are a metal barrel with bit holder surrounded by a metal sleeve that telescopes out past the bit and standard headed fastener to be driven. These "hold" fasteners/screws (primarily dry-wall/general purpose screws) in place for easy driving into the project.

<a name="square.shank"></a>Square Shank;
The shank/shaft of the screwdriver (the metal part with the tip/bit holder) is square or hexagonal or other shape with flat edges. Can be used with wrenches to provide greater torque and force against the fastener/hardware. These ARE NOT a replacement for Bolstered drivers.
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<a name="round.shank"></a>Round-Shank;
This is the most common type; The shaft/shank of the driver is round. These usually fit better in tight spots and can allow easier turning of loose fasteners while using finger tips spinning the shaft with your palm on the end/cap of the driver.

<a name="screw.setter"></a>Screw Setter;
Used primarily in drywall and paneling installation. Screw setters, are used to drive screws into the panel/sheet rock and drive the head far enough into the panel to level the screw head with the panel. Used to inset the screw head or, provide the dimple a screw head sits in.

<a name="ratchet.driver"></a>Ratcheting screwdriver;
A screwdriver/bit handle that has a ratcheting mechinisim to allow easier insertation/removal of fasteners. These often do not handle high torque or high stress situations well. Many 'cheap' homeowner tool sets include a ratcheting screwdriver handle.

~The cheap ones do not handle torque well and are usually coarse toothed. Snap-on, Gearwrench, Wera and other higher quality brands are finer toothed and have robust mechanism's.~plinker
edited by @plinker 2/2/2012. Added add'l details

<a name="nut-driver"></a>Nut-driver;
Although not technically a "screw driver", nut drivers are commonly found with screwdrivers. The "bit" holder on a nut driver is usually hexegonal, similar to a socket. And is used on small nuts and bolts that are easier to manage with a screwdriver application than standard ratchets or wrenches. They also commonly have a hollow shaft/shank.

<a name="hollow.shaft"></a>Hollow Shaft/Shank;
More common on nutdrivers than any other hand tool driver, a hollow shaft driver has a hollow shaft that allows longer bolts to slide into the shaft while the nut is tightened. This allows for a "deep-socket" type application in a screwdriver format.

<a name="screw.hold"></a>Screw Holding driver;
This type of screwdrive usually has tips that flair out at the tip. This applies force to the outer edge of the fasteners' head/bit. These are found primarily (if not only) on philips type fastener drivers because the force is applied from the INSIDE of the head pushing OUT. Thusly, there is no area on a flat-head fastener that the bit can 'grab'. NOT used in high torque/force/pressure applications.
Ratcheting screwdriver;
A screwdriver/bit handle that has a ratcheting mechanism to allow easier insertion/removal of fasteners. These often do not handle high torque or high stress situations well. Many 'cheap' homeowner tool sets include a ratcheting screwdriver handle.

<a name="offset"></a>Offset screwdrivers (or) Double-ended screwdriver ;
Often found with 2 bits on them, these are drivers that are usually hexegonal shaped and have a 90 degree angle in opposite directions on both ends. These are used for hard to reach places or in tight quarters. These are commonly found in Craftsman screwdriver sets. They have a long shaft with 90 degree angles on both ends with the bit.
~plinker

<a name="impact"></a>Impact Driver, often a manual impact driver;
NOT to be confused with automotive electric or pneumatic impact drivers.
This is a handheld driver that is used for high torque, high stress situations. Often with stuck on, stubborn, or thread-locked fasteners. These drivers are designed to be struck with a hammer/sledge which applies a strong, downward force as well as turning the bit as the driver is struck. Used with strengthened/toughened driver bits. NOT to be used with standard bits.*

<a name="sand.blast"></a>Sand-blasted tip;
The tip of the driver (the section that holds the fastener head) is sandblasted to 'rough up' the tip and allow more friction between the fastener and the head to allow the fastener to be driven in with less slippage.
~edited by @plinker 2/2/2012. Added Vapor-blasted

<a name="cam"></a>Cam-out or camming out a head;
This is when the tip of the driver slips out from the head of the fastener. It is also common for the head of a fastener to round out when you 'cam-out' the drive.

<a name="stripped"></a>Stripped or stripped out;
This is when the material you are screwing into deteriorates or loses the screw design/pattern of the fastener. It is also considered when the hole a fastener is being driven into is made too large for the fastener thus creating a lose connection and fit; There is minimal resistance when turning a screw thus, little friction/force applied to the fastener from the surrounding material.

Although I don't want to discuss head types and blade types, this is a common question and is verging on screwdriver types and screwdriver terminology.
<a name="cabinet"></a>Cabinet Tip;
Straight blade driver where the blade is the same width as the shank/shaft; there is no flare to the blade. It's designed to reach into deep countersunk holes without the blades edge damaging the area surrounding the hole or marring up the inside diameter of the hole.

Although I don't want to discuss head types and blade types, this is a common question and is verging on screwdriver types and screwdriver terminology.

<a name="plastic"></a>Plastic handle screwdriver;
These are often solid color drivers or "amber" colored and have a 'harder' feel than a standard composition screwdriver. There are some complaints that these handles crumble apart (see older snap-on square hard handles)

<a name="poly"></a>Poly Handle;
Many acetate based handles get grouped into "poly handle" groups. The most common of these materials being: acetate, or polycarbonate. The primary producer of these handles is Eastman Chemical Company. (also called eastman plastics) Some users complain that many poly handles have distinct, bad smells.

<a name="flock"></a>Flock;
This is usually a tapered, Nozzle(or de-laval nozzle by illustration to be more accurate)/double cone shaped inverted rim at the base of the handle--near where the shank protrudes. The actual flock is a composition of materials that offer slip resistance to the driver allowing easier turning of the driver with fingertips when hands are slippery from water, oil, grease, etc... The composite of multiple materials provides many textures thus, increasing surface ares. This is similar in purpose to a "Sand-blasted tip or"Vapor blasted" tip of a driver.

Torque screwdriver;
Similar to torque wrenches [See: ”http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1951379#torque”Mechanics tools Used to tighten fastener to a specific pressure/force. These drivers have a readout that shows the force being applied. Usually measured in inch-pounds or NM (Newton metre.) It is common for them to read in “2” inch-pounds increments, or .2 NM increments.

Flex driver or Flex-shaft;
Also similar flex spinner This is a driver with a flexible shaft. Basically a tight coil spring as the shaft/shank. These are used in hard to reach areas and can be bent and twisted to fit in odd places but still allow significant force by holding the handle in the same manner you would a standard driver. Flex-Spinner are these drivers however, they have a standard drive end similar to a ratchet or breaker-bar; they hold sockets, not bits.

Awl or scratch awl;
I have debated about adding this but, it IS a common piece dound with drivers. And awl is basically like a screwdriver with a point at the end. They can be used to scratchy/scribe some metal surfaces, pierce or puncture various soft materia as well as start a ‘pioler hole’ of sorts to start screws.l

Spring tool or alsoCan light tool;
Sometimes even refereed to as recessed can light tools[/I[. These are specialty drivers that are used in installation and maintenance on can lights/par lamps. Also used in removing small springs on autos (lights, brakes, motors, etc...)

Ball Head or ball tip screwdriver;
These are pretty much only found on hex head drivers. The tip/end/head of the driver is round to allow a full range of motion/direction on the screw head. These are great when fasteners are in odd areas or there is an obstruction directly across from the fastener thus, not allowing a conventional drive tool to be used.

Round head bolt;
These are bolts that have a sphere.round (bulbous) head that essentially acts as a washer and drive head. These are common on equipment where sharp objects may be very detrimental to the operation and use of the equipment.

ANSI or A.N.S.I;
American National Standards Institute; Is basically the “Safety Board”. They set the standards for safety and quality in hand tools, protection, and overall quality. Many tools must “Meet or Exceed ANSI Standards” meaning they have been tested to be of a certain quality, durability, and safety factor. ANSI ~wikipedia

UL or U.L.;
Stands for Underwriters Laboratory is another standards organization. They set the standards and tests of many electrical components. They also set standards for many hand tools. Similar to ANSI but much more in the consumer market. UL ~wikipedia

ISO or I.S.O
Stands for International Organization for Standardization. This is the organization that develops arbitrary standards and durability requirements and constraints for most tools. In certain countries and governements and administrations, tools used on gonernement owned items must meet and ISO spec. Examples of ISO rankings are: ISO 9000 for Quality management (found on MANY of hand tools) and ISO 17000 for calibration and testing (often combined with an IECrating.

IEC or I.E.C.
Stands for Independent Electrical Contractors, Inc. This is another standards organization and also requires compliance of certain tools, namely scales and calibration/testing instruments, to meet the arbitrary standard requirements. IEC standards and organizations are majorly funded and sponsored by the Electrical Contractors Foundation (IECF)

OSHA or majors pains in the ***;
Stands for Occupational Safety and Health Administration is a standards association that sets worker safety restrictions and other worker safety needs. Determines safe operating environments and other restrictions to allow a safe work environment.

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This is NOT a comprehensive list of screw heads, drive types, bolts, threads, screws, twists, etc.... For that, check out these great sites:
Screw Drives ~wikipedia
Screw ~wikipedia

Take a look at the great table of screw threads in the wikipedia “Screw” article.

PLEASE, take a look and read through this amazing and comprehensive article/instructable written by @arcticpenguin about screw heads, screw types and bolts, etc...

When a Phillips is not a Phillips Plus So Much More

For information on screws, bolts, machines screws and nuts, take a look here:

ANSI External screw threads


ANSI Internal Screw threads


And check out the Engineer’s Edge site for great resources. This is a great repository and resource for all kind of goodies. Engineers Edge

Following information complements of @plinker

4 in 1 screwdriver (or similar);
A screwdriver that has a reversable shank and uses double ended bits. Can be had as "5 in 1" even "10 in 1" style. The hex the bits fit into can frequently be used as a nut driver, depending on the brand.
A good general purpose screwdriver for having in a basic tool kit

Gunsmithing screwdriver;
Normally a set of flat/slotted screwdrivers or insert bit's that are hollow ground. They are made to fit perfectly into slotted screws to reduce the chance of damage to the screw. They come in a variety of sizes, both in width and thicknesses to fit any number of slotted screws. They are not tapered like regular screwdriver tips are, so they do not damage the screw, unless the wrong width/thickness is used.

ACR (anti cam rib);
A screwdriver that has this feature can reduce "cam-out" when dealing with a hard to remove screw. Generally found with Phillips screwdrivers and bits, as they are the most common to "cam out".

"Hard handle";
A type of plastic four sided screwdriver handle made by Snap-on and recently by Williams (a Snap-on company), There a two different kinds, 1st gen. and 2nd gen. The first generation are smooth and slightly smaller then the second generation. They also have an issue with the plastic breaking down (warranty item).
The second generation have a slight texture to them and are slightly larger is size. They are/were very popular and came in a rainbow of colors. They were recently re-introduced back to the market by Snap-on due to demand.
This style handle is often imitated.

Soft grip;
Available in various shapes and styles from various manufacturers, they are usually made of soft rubber like compound bonded to a plastic core, the outer rubber-like compound is soft to the touch and very "grippy". They can get damaged by some chemicals, brake cleaner in large amounts for example. Some do not care for them as they as they seem to attract dirt due to the soft surface. ~Most Snap-On Instinct screwdrivers are soft grip drivers, or at least possess a rubber cushion element making them a hybrid hard/soft handle.~

Security bit or screwdriver;
Also refereed to as "tamper proof" , they are designed to remove fasteners that reduce access to certain item's unless you have the proper tools and/or qualifications. Found in various shapes and styles. ~Security fasteners are common on electronics or on hardware in commercial environments and institutions.~

Off set screwdriver;
Looks like a hex key with two 90* off set at both ends in either Phillips or slotted or both. Not much fun to use, but is very good for low profile or access needs


These are not technically screwdrivers, but are usually associated with them

Pick and hook set
Similar to an awl they are very handy to have when dealing with O-rings and spiral retaining rings. Their use is only limited by your imagination. Normally these are bought as a miniature set, but full size picks are available.

Cotter pin puller/extractor
Used to remove cotter pins by hooking the pin's "eye" and pulling or prying out. Similar in looks to a pick/awl.
~Clevis pins in combination with Hitch Pins are commonly referred to as cotter pins but are more correctly Hairpin cotter pin. Although a cotter pin puller may be used to remove hitch pins, they are often unnecessary. A simple pair of pliers will usually be equally as effective or more at pulling hitch-pins on clevis pins or other ~puttsy

Terminal tool
Used to release the wire terminal from a wiring harness connector for repair or replacement. Common in automotive electrical tool kits.

I think this deserves to be stickied

Thanks for a great sticky!