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My 28x36 Shop

jonzer12

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I am weeks away from starting construction on my new garage/shop and I have some questions so figured I would start a thread.
I currently have a 16x25 garage that is below grade with rotting sill plates.
It is getting demo'd to make way for a 28x36 garage with 12.5' ceiling.
The plan is to install a lift to support my Jeep habbit.

Right now I am working on my contract with the concrete company.
I am going with 4" of 3000 psi for the first 20' of the pad and then 5" thick for the rest where the lift will be installed.
I have a question regarding rebar, what is better 10m on 18" center or 15m on 24" center?
 
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jonzer12

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Either will meet code, I am just trying to understand which one is stronger.
 
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jonzer12

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Well I knocked down the old garage a couple weeks ago and the land prep guys started this morning.

I have another issue, code here is to wrap the 2" sm insluation from under the pad up around the sides of the club wall. However no supplier in town offers a product to finish the exposed insulation on the side. How are people dealign with this?
 

Toolfool

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I go to my local sheet metal guy and have him bend some "Z" galvanized flashing for me ( 10" on the wall, 2" over top of insulatin, and then as long as I need to get down into the dirt). He even bends corner pieces to keep it neat.
 
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jonzer12

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Well there is the start. I should have taken pictures during demolition of the old garage.
It went smoothly, I used the winch on my jeep to snap the trusses at the peak and the roof just fell cleanly inside. The ground prep guys dug up the old pad.
 
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jonzer12

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SM has arrived for under the pad, the concrete guys should be here in a week or so.
I understand the land prep guys used both A and B grade gravel. A gravel being on top. How sandy should it be?

Seems like it is more sand than gravel, perhaps 60/40. I did not pay for pitrun.

I am having my general call the land prep guys back as the tamping job is subpar as well.
 
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jonzer12

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Ended up having the ground prep redone as the first crew did a terrible job.
Second guys did a solid job.

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Inspector should be here monday and then we pour.
 
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jonzer12

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Garage exterior is almost done. The 12'1" ceiling is going to work nicely. Doors are 10x9. I bought five rocksolid ploy-urea kits for the floor which I will put on right away before I pull all my stuff out of storage. After that I have to build a deck and fence for my wife and then I will run the electrical and gas service and start working on the interior this fall. 2 post lift will go in as soon as the interior work is complete.
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Kevin54

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Looking good!!! I like that small window between the doors. That is the first garage that I have seen like that.
 
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jonzer12

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It has passed code here, I stole the idea from a friends garage, its a frosted window. I didn't want windows in my doors as in my old garage I always parked just inside the door so if someone pulled up I had to squeeze in between to look outside. Better R value than windows garage doors anyways.

I am planning out my rocksolid floor install. What have people done with the control joints. Fill them in or just run the roller over them and hope you get enough in there?
 
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jonzer12

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Exterior is all done and I just finished putting down the Rocksolid poly-urea floor coating last weekend. Came out decent enough. Garage is on hold until I build my wife'd Deck and fence. Starting that this weekend.

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jonzer12

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Jeep is now inside I can add a pic later. My floor is 1008 sq/ft. Each rocksolid kit is supposed to do 250sq/ft. So I bought 5 so I could apply it to my cinder block wall as well. I only painted about 24 linear feet of cinder block wall and then stopped. Thank god I did as barely had enough to finish the floor. Cinder blocks absorb this stuff like nobody business. I will get some more and finish the cinder blocks as time allow.
I figure 1-2 more kits should do it.
Do not get that stuff on your hands. It *****...
another tip for anyone buying the rocksolid garage kit. Don't waste your money on extra chips. They give you tons of those things. I used less than half of the total amount and I thought I was applying them too heavy.
 
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jonzer12

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Been slow going as it tough to get out in the cold and work in the evening after working all day. I finished all the wiring and the garage passed electrical inspection this morning.
Insulation and Gas radiant tube heater is next. As soon as that's done I will frame my mezzanine in the back corner.
 
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jonzer12

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I forgot about this thread. I got everything insulated, drywalled 2/3 of the ceiling, just enough to install my radiant tube heater. It works just as I expected. I am very happy I spend the time and money going this route over a simple gas forced air unit.

Mezzanine is now done. I am now going to build my bench underneath, finish that area with pegboard so I can unpack boxes from the other side of garage and then complete the rest of the drywall work.

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jonzer12

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Plan is two rows of drywall at the top, the bottom will be plywood or osb which will then be covered with galvanized metal. In the above pic you can see the front of the mezzanine, the header is 2 2x8's bolted together (still have more bolts to add).
The are supported by a 6x6 post on the left that is bolted to the floor but on the right they are attached to the 2x8 lag bolted in the right wall by a piece of 1/4" angle steel and secured by two bolts. I always tend to overbuild everything but is that strong enough? I can't put a jack stud in because it is over the window.
 
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tackleberry

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Hi Jonzer12, I really like your garage and I am following suit with doing the same but I am going 10ft high with a 10 on 12 pitch for upstairs, just a quick question what is the size of the window you have in the front?
 
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jonzer12

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Haven't gotten anything done in the past 4 or 5 months. I finally broke down and ordered a secure storage bin to be delivered in a week or two. Garage contents are going in bin and I hired a dry wall guy to completely finish the garage. I am working huge hours and now I have another child so I told the wife we either hire somebody or she is parking outside this winter! All I will have to do is add my bottom 7' of metal which I will probably due in stages depending on cash on hand.

On another note I bought a sweet old 20" drill press at an estate sale for $200 bucks today. Also got a bunch of 1-2" wrenches and such for dirt cheap.
 
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jonzer12

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Well got all my stuff moved out of the garage into a storage bin for the drywall/painter to start and he quit before he even started... just having a bad couple of weeks all around.
Now I am delayed again trying to find a new contractor. Hope to have the entire garage finished in the next 3 weeks before I have to pay for bin rental again.
 
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jonzer12

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Found a young guy who started today for less money than the original contractor.
With any luck everything will be done in 1-2 weeks.
 
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jonzer12

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Sheeting just about done, should be painted by end of week then the bottom row gets sheeted in plywood and the metal goes up to 8' off the floor.

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jonzer12

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One more coat of mud in some spots and finish sanding left. Picked up paint today, wow the price of paint is crazy these days.

Metal for walls comes in on Friday. Hoping the painting is all done by then.
Winter is here for good already and boy am I glad I spent the extra money for the radiant tube heater. It is a nice step up from GFA unit.
 
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jonzer12

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Painting has begun!

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Metal for my walls didn't show up as expected. Hopefully this Friday.
 
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jonzer12

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I have read your entire thread, you garage always looks so big in pictures, its very nice. Mine grows smaller every day...
 
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jonzer12

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Metal is up, I ordered plain galvanized finish and boy is she bright! Had I known I would have went with a somewhat duller finish but it still looks better in person than in pictures.

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jonzer12

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Tonight hopefully I will continue organizing things and get the floor space clear so I can mop and then hang lights. Need my bench area completed too. If I can get enough that all done by Christmas holidays I hope to finally get the Jeep in the garage and install the new doubler setup I have for it.
 
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jonzer12

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R50 blown in insulation going in this afternoon. Then its more organizing. I need to find some cheap cabinets.
 
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jonzer12

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First lift master installed and my truck out of the snow.


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carkardad

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Nov 25, 2013
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You have a great looking garage. I am planning on the same lines with metal up the sides. I want to have the ability to hose out the entire garage. I saw your storage area above the garage doors and have thought of the same thing. My question is, can you still install an automatic opener with those shelves above your doors?
 

monkey-1

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Garage looks great. I too am using tin like you did for my walls and ceiling. I got it all for free so I couldn't complain, but wish it were white. Keep the pics coming.



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jonzer12

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CarKarDad the shelf is the reason I had to pony up for the liftmaster 3800's. They are jack shaft garage door openers and only rise 3" above the center of the shaft.

Which brings me to my current problem. I have only installed one so far but I have a problem with the tension monitor. When the door is raised and you push the button to close it the door cable goes slack for a split second as the door goes from stationary to starting to lower. This trips the tension monitor and the door won't close. For now I just put a screw underneath the tension monitor to keep it from closing completely when the cable is slack. What is the proper way to get around this? Any danger in my solution? I really don't see the point of the tension monitor if the cable breaks there is nothing the liftmaster can do to keep the door up.
 
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