Air compressor line at perimeter of shop?

5mall5nail5 · Nov 25, 2012

I am thinking of plumbing hard line around the perimeter of my shop when I get one. What sort of configuration works best? Steel/iron? Copper? Push-connect plastic? I am thinking of having a air port every 5 - 6 ft or so that way I don't need 50' hose. I do have a retractable hose reel which I will hang to bring out into the driveway, but I want to have a good system in the shop for various tools and tasks.

Thanks!

thightower · Nov 25, 2012

Steel works best, but a guy needs a threader install a system. Never seen copper. Never thought of push connect plastic, they do use that on road trucks. There is a company called garage pak, they have aluminum pipe and have thier own fittings. A little higher than others, but looks easier to install, they will help design the system.

Spareparts · Nov 25, 2012

I put my compressor in the corner of my shop, came off it with a 3/4" Hyd Hose from there up the wall thru a Ball Valve to 3/4" hard copper tubing. "T" it off and ran the line around the shop, when I wanted a drop just put a "T" in pointing up with 2 street ells to help eliminate moisture. Came down the wall to a ball valve, a "T" for the quick coupling, and a 6" to 8" tube and another ball valve to drain any moisture out of the line. Mine is level all the way around and have not had a problem with moisture, but I do drain it down once a week.

djjsr · Nov 25, 2012

There's LOTS of threads (and opinions) on this forum concerning air systems. Do a little searching. Seems like most guys like black pipe or copper with 3/4" main line and either 3/4" or 1/2" drops.

5 or 6 feet apart is really VERY close together.

Mine is copper, with 5 drops down the middle of the shop, 12 feet apart. If I had it to do over, I wouldn't change a thing.

Just my opinion.

5mall5nail5 · Nov 25, 2012

djjsr said:
There's LOTS of threads (and opinions) on this forum concerning air systems. Do a little searching. Seems like most guys like black pipe or copper with 3/4" main line and either 3/4" or 1/2" drops.

5 or 6 feet apart is really VERY close together.

Mine is copper, with 5 drops down the middle of the shop, 12 feet apart. If I had it to do over, I wouldn't change a thing.

Just my opinion.

It seems like a lot but I have a lathe, welding table, TIG welder, eventually plasma, few work benches, bandsaw, drill press, etc., and like to be able to blow off the tool or need air to the tool, so I don't want to have lines draped from various places.

Shootingblanks · Nov 25, 2012

bobadame · Nov 25, 2012

I used a combination of 1/2" copper and 1/2" black iron pipe. Had some leaks in the iron pipe fittings. No leaks anywhere with the copper. Copper was easier to put together and instal.

GTOGreg · Nov 25, 2012

I used copper 3/4" coming off compressor and then created 1/2" drops where needed. Works great and has eliminated any moisture in the system. My drop legs look similar to shootingblanks, but I did a wall mount so needed to use some angle pieces to work around the main piping and do the drop. TP Tools has some great illustrations on their website, and will sell you the bits if you want to use iron pipe.

Though I can't complain against the performance of what I built, for ease of installation and to get more coverage, I might have used the new garagepak aluminum 3/4 system.

lilscorpion · Nov 25, 2012

I've used copper and black iron. Learned the hard way that the moisture in the compressed air will cause the black iron to rust. An up hill air dryer will solve that (for the most part) but copper works well either way. The new garage got copper for that reason.

NitroShark · Nov 26, 2012

Use Black Pipe.. but,You will need a method of threading it. That's all I've ever used for many years.

Be sure to install the black pipe going down hill..

Shawn

machine_punk · Nov 26, 2012

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=134536

StaggeringGoat · Nov 26, 2012

thightower said:
Steel works best

There is nothing "best" about steel...all types of pipes have their strengths and weaknesses. It's mostly a matter of which you think looks best...

kbs2244 · Nov 26, 2012

Use at least ¾ if not 1 inch for less friction to the flow.
The big box stores sell black iron in 10 foot lengths and threaded at both ends.
Put a tee at the end of each piece.
Do the up, over and down the shooting blanks shows it.
Except, you want some slope to the horizontals going to a drop pipe that does not follow the up, over and down so that the water will drain into it.
A drop pipe every 10 feet means you only need a 5 or 6 foot hose to cover anyplace on the wall.

Tptools has a good layout PIC

http://www.tptools.com/pl/Images,metal_pipe_kits_L,74,2035_Modular-Metal-Piping-Kits.html

bullnerd · Nov 26, 2012

"I've used copper and black iron. Learned the hard way that the moisture in the compressed air will cause the black iron to rust."-I second this.Worked in shops with pretty nice setups and the pipe still rusted.

Copper for me.Absolutely no PVC! IMO of course.

Falcon67 · Nov 26, 2012

5mall5nail5 said:
It seems like a lot but I have a lathe, welding table, TIG welder, eventually plasma, few work benches, bandsaw, drill press, etc., and like to be able to blow off the tool or need air to the tool, so I don't want to have lines draped from various places.

I have all that except the TIG and plasma - have a total of 4 drops and a 50' reel in 960 sq/ft. No problems with access. Yes, once in a while I pull a coiled vinyl hose out 10~12' or so. There's maybe one place I'd put another drop but I'm not "excited" enough about the need to hack into the middle of a 20' run and punch a hole in the wall for the drop. I did a plan based on were things landed in the shop and how I work and ran the minimum pipe necessary to supply the planned drops.

I put my compressor in a closet with a home brew "dryer". The runs branch out from the closet. Most are iron but the ones that run through the attic to hit a couple of locations are Goodyear black high pressure hose. Because I'm lazy and pipe fitting was way overkill.

A photo from back when the runs were partially completed:

NUTTSGT · Nov 26, 2012

5mall5nail5 said:
It seems like a lot but I have a lathe, welding table, TIG welder, eventually plasma, few work benches, bandsaw, drill press, etc., and like to be able to blow off the tool or need air to the tool, so I don't want to have lines draped from various places.

You may not need a drop at every tool but in the middle of two would make it nice.

SeattleKent · Nov 26, 2012

Mine looks just like the shooting blanks install. Based it off the TP Tools design. The up/over/down for each drop works really well. I have had zero water/mosture problems. That is a little surprising considering I'm in rainy Seattle.

Black iron was difficult to work with. If I were to do it over, I would try copper.

Curtis_Peterson · Nov 26, 2012

I recommend copper or the aluminum pipe. NEVER PVC!

rslaback · Nov 26, 2012

Copper is the easiest to install and to cut into later if you want to change the system. Flexible systems are always droopy and look like ****.

OldTC · Nov 27, 2012

I'm doing black pipe right now,...based on the research I've done. But I'm in the middle of putting it up, so I'll get a photo or two later.
The TP tools system mentioned by SeattleKent is what I'm using as well, all their ideas made perfect sense to me.
http://www.tptools.com/StaticText/airline-piping-diagram.pdf

Jere · Nov 27, 2012

I don't have any system but I have been thinking about just running black rubber hose around. Then cutting it where needed and using brass barbed to threaded fitting and hose clamps. That way it will be rust proof and cost less than a hose reel from HF. Maybe mount it with electrical pipe conduit brackets.

vjlobel · Nov 27, 2012

At work we just installed this system, and I was pleased with it- It's from RapidAir.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200367525_200367525

It works a lot like a pex system, super easy to run and route. It's usually around 100 bucks for enough to do a garage and three drops.

If you need more capacity, they have a system called Maxline (Also available at northern tool) that is 3/4 pipe and designed for industrial systems. Just be careful, because that is plastic with a metal core and much harder to straighten out. The thinner stuff is pretty easy to work with if you leave it in the sun for a few hours.

All of these systems also sell parts so you can add on to them, and can be easily removed and taken with you when done.

hughfree · Nov 27, 2012

I have decided to use type L copper. The additional cost of materials is offset by the ease of installation and ease of modification / repair....

mdale · Nov 27, 2012

Is 1/2" or 3/4" pipe needed for 3hp 60gal compressor and about 50ft of main line with 5 drops?

oldmerc · Nov 27, 2012

I used copper , it's fairly cheap ,easy to install ,no special tools and if you don't know how to solder here's a chance to learn .

lilscorpion · Nov 27, 2012

oldmerc said:
I used copper , it's fairly cheap ,easy to install ,no special tools and if you don't know how to solder here's a chance to learn .

It is a good skill to learn though now-a-days you can get by with shark/gator bite fittings is money is falling out if your pocket and the desire to learn isn't there.

akdiesel · Nov 27, 2012

hughfree

The air lines look great. Nice clean straight work.

mdale

Its not so much the need for the air compressor but the need for the tool being used. If you can afford 3/4" than use that. Most tools in a residential garage only need 1/2" but as you grow and want things later in life the larger line will be in place and ready for what ever tool you get.

Coloshaver · Nov 27, 2012

I used black pipe. I ran about 70' of 3/4" around the perimeter and 1/2" drops where I planned to use air - over my bench, by the lift, on the back wall and a 100' hose reel by the garage door. I bought a HF threader which worked fine for the job and has some life left in it.

>>The only thing I would do differently is put a few unions in. After I got it all up, I checked for leaks. Fortunately, there were none. My compressor will go over 24 hours without cycling, but as I was studying my work, I realized that if I need to change my filter/regulator, I will have to unscrew every piece back to the regulator

or cut the pipe and reassemble it with unions. In case you hadn't thought about it, you can't unscrew a piece of threaded pipe in the middle of a run. (Unscrewing on one end, tightens the other :shocking:

)

Another step on my path to "Good judgement" (see my sig)

Sureshot · Nov 28, 2012

kbs2244 said:
Use at least ¾ if not 1 inch for less friction to the flow.
The big box stores sell black iron in 10 foot lengths and threaded at both ends.
Put a tee at the end of each piece.
Do the up, over and down the shooting blanks shows it.
Except, you want some slope to the horizontals going to a drop pipe that does not follow the up, over and down so that the water will drain into it.
A drop pipe every 10 feet means you only need a 5 or 6 foot hose to cover anyplace on the wall.

Tptools has a good layout PIC

http://www.tptools.com/pl/Images,metal_pipe_kits_L,74,2035_Modular-Metal-Piping-Kits.html

That link is ok but the reasons for not using copper are:

Avoid copper tubing, as it is easily damaged; and soldered joints can come loose under pressure (Safety Hazard).

Seems like a very lame reason. I have had mine in for 12 yrs with employees and renters etc and never saw any damage and if your solder joints come loose well you need to learn to solder.

Takes away from their credibility IMHO and makes me less inclined to believe any other claims they have.

bluejeep · Dec 1, 2012

I just finished piping my 40x50 barn with black iron pipe. I used 3/4 inch line for the main lines and 1/2 inch for the drops. Use lots of unions.

Stuart in MN · Dec 1, 2012

vjlobel said:
At work we just installed this system, and I was pleased with it- It's from RapidAir.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200367525_200367525

I just got a flyer from Northern Tool in the mail the other day, they have a Rapidair kit on sale for Christmas.

Curtis_Peterson · Dec 1, 2012

With the reciprocating compressors being the majority that I see here. The water pumped down line would push me towards copper. Black pipe will not last as long as copper. The chance of solder joints coming loose I would think is pretty slim. If you are doing the piping yourself, chances are you are handy enough to get the joints pretty decent. My choice would be between copper and aluminum piping IMO.

akdiesel · Dec 2, 2012

bluejeep

Nice and clean set up.

Curtis_Peterson

Don't let water stop your choices. If you have that much water in your lines that you are worried about rust, then you really need to redirect your attention to stopping the water all together since it will ruin your tools much sooner then rust out your pipe.
If done correctly all three will provide a longevity of use that will more likely outlast you.

Air compressor line at perimeter of shop?

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Super Moderator

Well-known member

Active member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Attachments

ALLIANCE MEMBER

Well-known member

Attachments

Well-known member

Active member

Well-known member