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"Strength" of generic RH 1/2" ratchet?

Jason280

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Mar 4, 2012
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I have a project in mind, and I'm curious how much torque a standard round head 1/2" drive ratchet can reasonably handle. I have the occasional need for a longer handled 1/2" drive ratchet that can double as a breaker bar. Of course, I know the first question to be asked is "why don't you just use a breaker bar??". Answer is, I have plenty of breaker bars, but I want one that will also ratchet if necessary. Yes, I'm aware that they make ratcheting breaker bars, I'm just not interested in spending money on one. ;)

Looking at the ratchet below, how comfortable would you feel using it with a total handle length of 18-24"? My plan is to make a handle out of some extra heavy wall tubing I have, and possibly even fit a hard type handle. Are these round head designs inherently weaker than other designs? I'm not too worried if I strip a few teeth in testing it out, as this is a very cheap project.




 
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chris142

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I'd be more inclined to try the composite ratchets. I've really cranked on my 3/8 one and never broke it. the half inch one can only be stronger
 
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Jason280

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I'd be more inclined to try the composite ratchets

That would require buying one to experiment on...plus, "composite" materials usually don't respond well to TIG welding. ;)
 

JJThrasher

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I have a 24" handle ratchet that I've out a pipe on before. Its still fine so I don't see why this would be any different.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
 

bobcatdan

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All you can do is try it. I find there is no rhyme or reason to ratchet. I have broke every ratchet I own at least once.
 

KinzeMech

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I have never stripped out a ratchet. Not even with a big pipe.

I have twisted off the square drive peg though.

I wonder how the guys with stripped ones do it...
 

Outlawmws

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Any reason it has to be 1/2"? a 3/4 drive is probably already that long, stronger, and you can adapt down?

For your particular project, do you happen to have an exposed gear ratchet? probably stronger than a round head, but round heads are pretty strong (depending to a degree on brand...) is that just one of the SO handle knock offs? if an import i;d make sure you aren't going to hurt yourself in a fall if it does let go...

For your project, I'd find a cosmetically challenged SK and go for it...
 
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Outlawmws

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I have never stripped out a ratchet. Not even with a big pipe.

I have twisted off the square drive peg though.

I wonder how the guys with stripped ones do it...

Grit and wear and not fully engaging the pawls, or possibly pounding on the handle with a hammer and the shock does it in.
 

zkling

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From the seat of my pants I would guess around 250-400ft lbs. For a generic cheap 1/2" ratchet. BUT I think that would vary quite a bit from manufacture to manufacture. I would probably try to find a coarse tooth ratchet.

HF makes a 1/2" ratcheting breaker bar for ~$20. I don't have one, just saying.

Plus as Outlaw mentioned, constant torque by hand vs impact are two completely different methods to break a ratchet.
 
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Jason280

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Plus as Outlaw mentioned, constant torque by hand vs impact are two completely different methods to break a ratchet.

It will only be seeing leverage/constant torque by hand, no hitting or banging against it with a hammer.
 

Outlawmws

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Not sure I follow, what's an "exposed gear ratchet"?

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=202884

Look in here, but the outer "shell" on the rat in that thread is just a sheet spring steel cover and can actually be popped right off, (some may never have had the cover, I have my dad's old P&C3/4" drive open gear rat and I can't recall ever seeing it with a cover, but it could have been lost before I was born... :dunno: )
 

Danglerb

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I don't think brute force is what kills most ratchets, its more like a pawl not fully catching on a tooth and slipping.
 

cosmik binturong

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Not sure I follow, what's an "exposed gear ratchet"?

or a modernish -albeit japanese- version:

2013-06-03-1005.jpg


Top RH-4N (1/2" & 24-toothed)

2013-06-03-1003.jpg


2013-06-03-1004.jpg
 
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