PA's ProPoint 3-1/2" Bandsaw <-- It's JUNK!!!

ON the weekend while at PA to pick up some wheels that were on sale I decided to take a look at their 3 1/2" bandsaw (prod link below). Ive wanted one of these 'miter' bandsaws for a while since my only cutting tools are abrasive (chop and angle grinders) which I find not pleasant to cut with even on the best of days. Adding to the **** they spew and necessitating respirator/masks they are all loud. This loudness not as much as a personal issue since I have no problem with ear plugs but is not something I want to be running in the evenings as I would hate me for the noise too if I were my own neighbor.

Back to the saw. After a quick look over at the store I decided what the heck and ponied up the $350 for the saw (I was in a good mood that day). On unpacking and getting set up this evening the quality actually looked decent. The castings were smooth, well machined, all adjustments operated smoothly. Even the vice on it was nice.

Time to cut the first piece of metal. A 5x16x3/16" plate. Its going to be a flip and cut but will really be a test of how straight this thing will cut. I make it through the first 3/4 of the cut and everything looks pretty good, only 1/16" off, I'll accept that. Flip the piece and finish off the cut. SNAP! and the blade stops. ****, I think I just broke the blade but its not loose at all. Take off the cover and place the slipped blade back on. Start cutting again and within 5 seconds the same thing happens again. Lather rinse repeat until the cut is done. Determined to accomplish something at all tonight I toss some 2.5x2.5x0.188 tube in to make two cuts. This time I'm not putting the cover back on. 12 blade dismounts later Ive made two cuts wooooooo. Even to eliminate the 'human error' aspect I tried weighting the handle for a constant pressure. I achieved either not cutting at all or cutting slow but still dismounting blades.

This turd is going back up the princess' *** tomorrow. Can anyone else recommend a similar band saw that, you know, works? I would just get one of the king/general Canada cheapies (have one at work and no real problems) but don't want to give up the floor space (one car garage).

http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/Bandsaws/3-1-2-in-Band-Saw/8354789.p

$350 for that? . I don't blame you for returning it. If you do decide to keep it, I bet alot of your problems could be solved with a good quality blade.

Outside of the standard 4x6" horizontal offshore job. Which can be taken off the sheet metal base. You can usually find these for ~<$100 on CL. Actually craftsman use to make a smaller version of the 4x6, they are nice, run usually well <$100, but aren't extremely easy to find.

Outside of that, how about a good old port a band and one of the aftermarket bases? Just my 2¢

I don't thing the better blade would help much. The problem gets worse when adding cutting lube. Both wheels are flat rubber surfaces. As the drive wheel gets more blade torque the blade will slowly walk itself off or fast. Ive watched it do both and its all kinda random. My best guess is that its a combination between two soft of rubber on the drive wheel and something flexing.

Is there any reason why some sort of blade keeper, or pulley cover wasn't engineered into the design..?

I know absolutely nothing about these tools, but it seems like a pain in the **** just waiting to happen.

Rico. said:

Is there any reason why some sort of blade keeper, or pulley cover wasn't engineered into the design..?

I know absolutely nothing about these tools, but it seems like a pain in the **** just waiting to happen.

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There is a cover. I left it off for finishing the couple cuts I needed to do this night because it lessened the pain to have to take off the cover when the blade comes off.

garboui said:

There is a cover. I left it off for finishing the couple cuts I needed to do this night because it lessened the pain to have to take off the cover when the blade comes off.

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I appologise... my question was very unclear.

I meant why isn't there some kind of flange designed into the pulleys themselves to
physically stop the blade from coming off. Kind of like a serpantine belt pulley... They have
a flange on each side of the pulley to stop the belt from walking off.

I realise there is toothed cutting edge on one side, but I'm sure some kind of guide
could be made to stop the blade from just falling off the pulley.

For 350. You could get a new portaband

garboui - Is the blade tension adjustable on that saw? Improper blade tension is one of the reasons for blade failure on a 4"x6" saw. Not sure if that's a problem with these saws.

Rico. said:

I appologise... my question was very unclear.

I meant why isn't there some kind of flange designed into the pulleys themselves to
physically stop the blade from coming off. Kind of like a serpantine belt pulley... They have
a flange on each side of the pulley to stop the belt from walking off.

I realise there is toothed cutting edge on one side, but I'm sure some kind of guide
could be made to stop the blade from just falling off the pulley.

Click to expand...

There are 2 "rub posts" that keep the blade from falling off towards the inside. Unloaded, the blade naturally walks down this direction and contacts both posts near each roller. The blade when loaded walks off in the toothed direction from the drive wheel. There is no additional catches for retaining the blade in this direction.

PCO6 said:

garboui - Is the blade tension adjustable on that saw? Improper blade tension is one of the reasons for blade failure on a 4"x6" saw. Not sure if that's a problem with these saws.

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There is a blade tension adjustment. In trying to get the blade to stay on I tried many different tension settings. Worse results were only achieved when getting on the too tight or too loose side of things.


I am pretty much set on something like the milwaukee but the lack of mitre base makes it a no sell for me. EDIT?: I noticed the base/table on the site that was linked and spending another $300 just for that is not really an option as that would put me in to cold cut saw price territory.

Just another thought. Is there any cold chopsaws (in the $300 proce range) that can be suggested. Are cold saws generally as quiet as a bandsaw?

garboui said:

Just another thought. Is there any cold chopsaws (in the $300 proce range) that can be suggested. Are cold saws generally as quiet as a bandsaw?

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Cold saws are louder than you'd think, but no where near as loud as an abrasive or dry cut. Cheapest of which I'm aware is a little Baleigh at around $850, that was a few years ago. I don't remember blade size but it certainly was not 14" as these are $$$$$$$$. Better add a few more: $$$.

Rico. said:

I appologise... my question was very unclear.

I meant why isn't there some kind of flange designed into the pulleys themselves to
physically stop the blade from coming off. Kind of like a serpantine belt pulley... They have
a flange on each side of the pulley to stop the belt from walking off.

I realise there is toothed cutting edge on one side, but I'm sure some kind of guide
could be made to stop the blade from just falling off the pulley.

Click to expand...

No band saw I've ever seen is set up like you describe. A band saw, when properly built and with proper blade tension, should need nothing more than the blade tension to keep the blade in place.

OP, how 'bout a swivel head 5x6?
http://www.grizzly.com/products/5-x-6-Metal-Cutting-Bandsaw-w-Swivel-Head/G9742

I think Northern's is identical and usually less $, but shipping may kill you. I'd find you a link but my connection and Northerntool.com are not getting along right now

That's well above what I'm willing to spend.

Right now I'm looking at the Evolution Rage2 cold saw as its in the same price range. As far as performance it seems it will meet my requirements just trying to get an idea of how loud it will be.

garboui said:

That's well above what I'm willing to spend.

Right now I'm looking at the Evolution Rage2 cold saw as its in the same price range. As far as performance it seems it will meet my requirements just trying to get an idea of how loud it will be.

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Oh that's not a cold saw my friend. That's a dry cut. They scream like a banshee. While abrasives have more of a GRRR, dry cuts are more like a banshee being fed thru a turbine.

You better get an import 4x6 bandsaw, put a decent blade on it and change the oil in the gear box and find that you're surprised at how happy you are with your purchase.

I bought a Chinese made saw from Grizzly many years ago and it worked extremely well, and I cut a LOT of metal with it, mostly at angles......

It sounds like the two wheels are not aligned properly but like the other poster said, the blade should not walk.

On mine, I found that the cut speed (drop speed as well as blade speed) made a lot of difference, if it dropped too fast it would bind or the blade would come off.... it took a bit of fiddling to find the right combination, but once there it worked a treat.

If you're cutting a lot of metal these things are fantastic, you can start a cut and walk away as it will shut itself off once the cut is thru, and I found that once set up the angle cuts were very accurate.

Mine was just like this, and I got it on sale and got free shipping, so my recollection was $600. it has several nice features, including the adjustable blade stabilizer, three speed gearbox, built in coolant pump, adjustable stop for repeated cuts...all in all I thought it was a quality saw.

I also have a Milwaukee hand band saw, but I've never been able to get good, square repeatable cuts with it. it's great for some things, but for the cuts you're making.........not so much.

Ign said:

Oh that's not a cold saw my friend. That's a dry cut. They scream like a banshee. While abrasives have more of a GRRR, dry cuts are more like a banshee being fed thru a turbine.

You better get an import 4x6 bandsaw, put a decent blade on it and change the oil in the gear box and find that you're surprised at how happy you are with your purchase.

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i think this is what it may just come down to. Given im already familiar with the import 4x6 we have at work and dont have any real qualms with ill just have to **** up the fact that it will take up floor space.

I agree with post #17, those import 7x12's are fantastic. The Grizzly is probably overpriced (today). I got a killer deal and got mine for $500 but it was a fluke, one time deal. Cheapest I see them these days is $850 thru Enco. Try to get one with the vertical downfeed cylinder rather than angled. Blades for these are cheap at $25 each and last forever if cared for.

The key to any of these saws (4x6 or 7x12) is get the blade what you think is too tight... then it's maybe just tight enough.

I just cut a bunch of thick aluminum with my 7x12; put on a 4/6 blade and cranked the blade speed all the way up (step pulley). I could watch the bow flex in/out but it cut great and never threw the blade.

OP, the 7x12's are a HUGE step up and can easily be rolled against a wall, then rolled out when needed. This is what I do, it's like "retractable band saw." The integrated coolant pump alone and hydraulic cylinder for downfeed are two significant upgrades over the 4x6's.

One fun fact I found when using mine with the coolant feed, if you're cutting from a long stick, don't forget to put a pan under the end, cause if you don't you'll find coolant all over the floor where it ran thru the stick!

You can get a 7x12 band saw in $300 - $500 in a good condition. CL or ebay are good places to start with your search. I own 7x12 saw, best money I've ever spent. I like it because it has a huge difference in cutting performance. I tried running Haltbar band saw blade and cut thick aluminum, pipes and steels. The blades last long time. All too well. The band saw is a lot quieter, and you can tilt it up vertically to cut curves. Achieving straight cuts are hard to do if you are not doing right. A good blade helps a lot.
Since you mentioned that you won't give up floor space, cold saw can be the least option.
Cold saws can still do quick and accurate cuts but should be well attended. With cold saw, limited services can be done. Cutting angles or channels can't be done on cold saw , for me. They are noisy and dirty. But band saws are quieter, it can even cut larger materials or big stuff , turn it on and leave it. It can do the other things that cold saws can't.