My Take on The Ultimate Welding Table

dr_clyde · Dec 2, 2013

I've been needing a good welding table for some time now. I didn't want to spend the coin and take the time until I had a design that I really liked. I finally settled on one and I wanted to incorporate several features.

First, I needed a large top. I build large objects, and working on a dinky table just plain *****. I settled on 4'x10'. Any wider, and I would have trouble reaching the other side. Any longer, and I would need a bigger shop.

Second, I needed 2" receiver tubes at a lot of different locations. Vises, grinders, benders, and all kinds of attachments will go in these. I wanted a minimum of 6, 8 would be ideal.

Third, I wanted to integrate StrongHand's tooling. Those guys make a ton of cool clamps, but their tables are overpriced and not what I wanted.

It all starts with a plate. I originally spec'd 1.5" plate, but I found a screaming deal on a piece of 3/4" plate, and they delivered it to my buddy's shop, where the waterjet is. 3/4" plate will be plenty thick for what I need to do with the table, plus I save some coin.

Here is the plate sitting on the table of the Ward Jet.

IMG_1859 by jacobb14, on Flickr

Being lifted off with the forklift.

IMG_1858 by jacobb14, on Flickr

If you ever have the pleasure of using a Ward Jet, they are spectacular machines. This machine has a table large enough to place two 4'x12' sheets next to each other, and cut steel 9" thick. It will do 12" thick granite, no problem. My puny 3/4" plate was no problem.

I had him run the profile in addition to the holes, ensuring straight and square edges.

Loading into my truck for the trip to my shop.

IMG_1860 by jacobb14, on Flickr

More to come!

dr_clyde · Dec 2, 2013

Once back at the shop, I cut and laid out all the tubing on the table to ensure the geometry would work. I also welded the nuts for the receiver tubes while everything was apart. All the tube is Made in USA! The main legs are 4" square tubing with 1/4" wall. The rest is 2.5" 3/16" wall.

IMG_1875 by jacobb14, on Flickr

IMG_1868 by jacobb14, on Flickr

IMG_1869 by jacobb14, on Flickr

IMG_1870 by jacobb14, on Flickr

All the tubes were de-burred with a Dynabrade band file. These things are awesome, and make short work of sanding weird inside areas that a regular grinder won't reach.

IMG_1872 by jacobb14, on Flickr

IMG_1873 by jacobb14, on Flickr

Holes for the nuts were drilled on my old series 1 Jhead Bridgeport.

IMG_1878 by jacobb14, on Flickr

Grinding the mill scale off for TIG welding.

IMG_1884 by jacobb14, on Flickr

Before welding, the nuts were treated to a bath of muriatic acid, then neutralized with a basic solution of baking soda and water. This easily removes the zinc coating so I can weld them safely and without tungsten contamination. I left one nut zinc'd for the photo so you can see the difference.

IMG_1883 by jacobb14, on Flickr

All welded up and ready to attach.

IMG_1885 by jacobb14, on Flickr

dr_clyde · Dec 2, 2013

I then found myself in a chicken/egg scenario. How do you build a flat table without a flat table to build on? Answer? Have a buddy with an even bigger flatter table at his shop in which to work on.

So I tossed the tubes and some tools in my truck and headed down the street. Fortunately, its less than a mile to his shop, so I didn't need to go far.

Getting things square is half the battle. Large angle plates and accurate squares help a lot. Starrett makes one hell of a nice square.

IMG_1887 by jacobb14, on Flickr

IMG_1886 by jacobb14, on Flickr

IMG_1890 by jacobb14, on Flickr

IMG_1891 by jacobb14, on Flickr

IMG_1892 by jacobb14, on Flickr

IMG_1889 by jacobb14, on Flickr

IMG_1888 by jacobb14, on Flickr

The tricky part is knowing where to tack, and then where to weld so the distortion caused by the welding works for you, not against you. Clamps and a nice flat table only go so far. The rest just plain comes down to experience.

IMG_1894 by jacobb14, on Flickr

All flipped over back at my shop. All said and done, square within a 32nd over ten feet. Not so bad for government work.

IMG_1895 by jacobb14, on Flickr

dr_clyde · Dec 2, 2013

The next step is to attach the top. This will be accomplished by eight 5/8-11 socket head cap screws. I was running some 1/2" plate at the laser shop, so I added some brackets to attach the top. One will go into each corner, and there will be 4 in the middle, on each side of the center.

IMG_1905 by jacobb14, on Flickr

IMG_1906 by jacobb14, on Flickr

Each bracket is held in place with this little jig I made. It holds the bracket just flush so I can get a few TIG tacks in.

IMG_1907 by jacobb14, on Flickr

Each bracket gets TIG welded in with the lay wire technique. I cranked the amps up and just fed rod in steadily. Makes for a smoother weld, less for me to grind off.

IMG_1909 by jacobb14, on Flickr

The top was set on top and squared up. I transfer punched the locations of the holes and then flipped the top over onto the floor. I used my granddads old Milwaukee mag drill to drill and tap the mounting holes.

IMG_1917 by jacobb14, on Flickr

1/2 Cup · Dec 2, 2013

Thats one sweet build. :thumbup:

dittle fart around · Dec 2, 2013

Mag drills are a wonderful thing. When I was younger, use to drill steel to mount electrical boxes on high voltage towers and substation buss supports. Glad I'm not doing that anymore.

dr_clyde · Dec 2, 2013

Finally, I have something that resembles a table. I didn't need to do any shimming, the top lays flat enough for my needs.

Originally, I intended on having to top Blanchard ground. However, I ran into a couple snags. One, there is only one grinder big enough in the tri-state area big enough to handle my table. Oops. It would cost more to ship my table to the grinder than I paid for the whole shebang. Fortunately, there is a machine shop just down the street with a horizontal boring mill large enough to mill my table flat with a better finish than grinding. Great. I can even drive it there on the forklift. Oh, you want $1500? Maybe I'll just be happy with the mill scale on the top. If I get a job that demands that kind of precision, I'll just build that cost into the job.

IMG_1960 by jacobb14, on Flickr

IMG_1959 by jacobb14, on Flickr

This vise belonged to my great grandfather. I had it bolted to my bench at the farm growing up. I've had it as long as I can remember. Don't know what brand it is, just that it was made in Poland and opens really wide. A couple years ago I stripped it down and gave it a face lift and some copper jaws.

IMG_1961 by jacobb14, on Flickr

I have yet to make a base for the Wilton vise, I have it drawn, I just haven't had it cut. I also have the brackets for the clamp racks drawn. I'm just waiting until I have enough 1/4" plate to justify a laser order. That's why my clamps are hanging out on a piece of angle iron clamped to the legs. Not a permanent solution.

IMG_1962 by jacobb14, on Flickr

As you can see, the hold downs work great.

IMG_1964 by jacobb14, on Flickr

I intend to paint the base, and add some plywood to the base for shelves to hold my power tool cases. Not really a priority right now, so this is as done as the table is going to get for at least a month or two.

jgreen-fsi · Dec 2, 2013

You sir, are a craftsman. Nice job.

machine_punk · Dec 2, 2013

Very nicely done! I need to get a few projects over to the laser/waterjet cutter.

Is your shop big enough that the welding table will sit in the same place all the time, or will you need to move it? (Of course, it sounds like you have a forklift anyway...so it wouldn't be an issue.

Kev

dr_clyde · Dec 2, 2013

The base has some receivers built low enough that I can put some casters attached to tubing in them if I decide I ever need wheels. But, now that I have a forklift, moving things isn't really an issue. I don't plan to move it much. I am moving to a new building in a week or two, but it's within driving distance with the forklift.

R.Anderson · Dec 2, 2013

Now this is a welding table

I use a tape to square most of the time I find it more accurate than using squares. Hydrochloric acid wonderful stuff, many uses

With the bolt holding down the table are you going bottom up and grinding the ends flush, or counter sinking top down? What type of steel is the plate?

Buckgnarly · Dec 2, 2013

Man, with all those shops around you I want to move in your neighborhood! :thumbup:

dr_clyde · Dec 2, 2013

R.Anderson said:
Now this is a welding table I use a tape to square most of the time I find it more accurate than using squares. Hydrochloric acid wonderful stuff, many uses

With the bolt holding down the table are you going bottom up and grinding the ends flush, or counter sinking top down? What type of steel is the plate?

The bolts are just short enough that they don't protrude through the top coming up from the bottom. I made the mount brackets out of 1/2" so they'd be less likely to deflect if I needed to shim the top.

The squares are just to get me close. I do my final squaring with a tape measure across corners. If I'm really super fussy, we bust out the lasers and the transit.

I didn't specify an alloy when I ordered the plate, so I assume its 1018 or 1020 mild steel. It's just a welding table, no need to get fancy with the alloy. :thumbup:

ADSR · Dec 2, 2013

Awesome table! Puts my 3x5 to shame.

Richard D · Dec 2, 2013

Really nice. I am considering having 5/8" holes water-jetted on my Stronghand "knockoff".
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=225206
I was concerned as far as how accurate did they come out?

Richard D · Dec 2, 2013

I also like what is seeming to be a trend in "ultimate" welding tables; not just big and heavy, but smart. Hat's off, and the bar is getting raised pretty high.

dr_clyde · Dec 2, 2013

Richard D said:
Really nice. I am considering having 5/8" holes water-jetted on my Stronghand "knockoff".
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=225206
I was concerned as far as how accurate did they come out?

Depends on what you mean by accurate. As far as XY layout, they are smack on. The thicker the material being cut, the more taper there is. The top of the holes are exactly .625" in diameter. At the bottom of the cut, it is a few thousandths smaller. The strong hand clamps fit perfectly, but if you were to try to put a 5/8" bolt in, it would bind slightly at the bottom. My solution was to chase the holes with a reamer. Now they work great if I need to bolt something down.

thejudges69 · Dec 4, 2013

Had the pleasure of hauling ward jet machines. Great people in tallmadge.

kazlx · Dec 4, 2013

Very nice!...that looks oddly familiar, just about twice the size lol. Great minds think alike. I did the same thing and chased my holes with a 5/8" reamer. The water jet is pretty nice.

superspec · Dec 4, 2013

would you happen to have the water jet file? I have been thinking about doing a table like that. Like yourself I can't make my self pay for one from strong hand. I was trying to hold out until next year for SEMA and get one cheap but I dont think I'll be able to wait that long.

kazlx · Dec 4, 2013

You can just use any dxf file. I can draw it for you if you want.

superspec · Dec 4, 2013

Please! We have one water jet place within 2 hours of my house and they charge an arm and 2 testicles to do anything. They can have my balls but I need my arm.

1/2 Cup · Dec 4, 2013

10 out of 10, excellent result. :thumbup:

dr_clyde · Dec 4, 2013

I just drew it in AutoCad... It's just a rectangle with a grid of holes on 6" centers. PM me your email address and I can send you the file. You want the exact same size and everything?

dr_clyde · Dec 4, 2013

kazlx said:
Very nice!...that looks oddly familiar, just about twice the size lol. Great minds think alike. I did the same thing and chased my holes with a 5/8" reamer. The water jet is pretty nice.

I saw your table and went "Damn. He beat me to the punch." Seeing your table done is kind of what kicked me in the keister to get mine done. I just wish I could have mine Blanchard ground.

I recently acquired a smaller (5'x3') cast iron table that I'll grind and use for my fussy layout work.

thingadmin · Dec 21, 2013

Very nice table!

I am getting ready to build a 4x8 table and got a couple of quotes to have the holes cut with a water jet and nearly had a stroke. One place wanted $2200 and another wanted $2400. This was with me supplying the 1/2 plate. So I'm thinking about buying a mag drill and spending a month drilling holes, then I still own a mag drill.

madosta · Dec 21, 2013

Sweet!!! Make me one!

dr_clyde · Dec 21, 2013

thingadmin said:
Very nice table!

I am getting ready to build a 4x8 table and got a couple of quotes to have the holes cut with a water jet and nearly had a stroke. One place wanted $2200 and another wanted $2400. This was with me supplying the 1/2 plate. So I'm thinking about buying a mag drill and spending a month drilling holes, then I still own a mag drill.

Thanks!

The actual drilling wouldn't take more than a couple hours, I imagine. Just get a piloted rotobroach and go to town. It's the layout that takes forever.

That price is absurd, by the way. It shouldn't cost more than $500 to do a 4x8 table.

toolman1967 · Dec 21, 2013

Nice table!!!! Very well thought out and executed!!

Tim the Toolman

Debriefer · Dec 22, 2013

dr_clyde said:

It doesn't matter for this table, but one thing I'd like to point out is that with the design where the top frame portion is welded to the side of the legs, there is a large shear stress on those welds. You have enough welding area that it will hold (easily), and the legs will still be taking some of the top's weight directly, but in general, you want to avoid this scenario and put the top on top of the legs. Keeping the stresses off the welds is always a good thing.

sberry · Dec 22, 2013

How much you think all this matters?
I agree that the workmanship is wonderful, its well designed and laid out, nothing wrong with any of that,,, but as a working career general fabricator you can keep it. I would just as soon have a 1/2 plate about half the size on a couple of saw horses.

That is a nice point of admiration but a guy cant sweep the top off, **** rolling in the holes,,, dozens,,, most of them will never be used, need special clamps, now its got a nice finish we got to worry about etc. Maybe this is a specialty shop and needs 1/32 flatness, that is a different matter but it leads a lot of others to believe they might and have hundreds or 1000's of dollars in materials and machine work sit idle.

dr_clyde · Dec 22, 2013

sberry said:
How much you think all this matters?
I agree that the workmanship is wonderful, its well designed and laid out, nothing wrong with any of that,,, but as a working career general fabricator you can keep it. I would just as soon have a 1/2 plate about half the size on a couple of saw horses.

That is a nice point of admiration but a guy cant sweep the top off, **** rolling in the holes,,, dozens,,, most of them will never be used, need special clamps, now its got a nice finish we got to worry about etc. Maybe this is a specialty shop and needs 1/32 flatness, that is a different matter but it leads a lot of others to believe they might and have hundreds or 1000's of dollars in materials and machine work sit idle.

I think it matters a great deal. I work as a professional fabricator. I make my living welding and making things. This table is designed to make me money. If I didn't think it would be a feature I'd want, I wouldn't have built it this way.

No matter what table design you choose, there will be drawbacks. In the past, I have used many different designs, and I vastly prefer the ability to hold down things in the middle of the table. I find it completley useless to have a large table that can only clamp on the edges. I routinely make objects that have large frames and require tight tolerances. I made this table to work for ME. I have smaller tables, if I need them. Ones without holes, ect.

In the past, I have used tables that were "good enough". And yes, I could do good work on them, but it took longer, and wasn't near as easy to quickly fixture things accurately. I have the ability and resources to build whatever table suited my needs, so I did. It's not for everyone.

jayrush13 · Dec 22, 2013

sberry said:
How much you think all this matters?
I agree that the workmanship is wonderful, its well designed and laid out, nothing wrong with any of that,,, but as a working career general fabricator you can keep it. I would just as soon have a 1/2 plate about half the size on a couple of saw horses.

That is a nice point of admiration but a guy cant sweep the top off, **** rolling in the holes,,, dozens,,, most of them will never be used, need special clamps, now its got a nice finish we got to worry about etc. Maybe this is a specialty shop and needs 1/32 flatness, that is a different matter but it leads a lot of others to believe they might and have hundreds or 1000's of dollars in materials and machine work sit idle.

I seem to see a pattern with your posts that if someone does something different then you would do it its totally wrong and a useless waste of time

Yes for most guys on this forum a table like that would be impractical but in this situation in a professional shop it sounds like it will work out and make the OP money

I personally would love to have that table but never will as it would be way to much for how little I would use it but so is a giant snap on box filled with all truck brand tools but I like to look at what others are using and dream

sberry · Dec 22, 2013

I understand what the op did, I really do and its a thing of beauty but my only point is forworn copiers that all their dreams wont be realized.

but in this situation in a professional shop it sounds like it will work out and make the OP money

I think its neat and the op is entitles to have some plate sent out to get lazor cut, but I will disagree about it being a money making proposition other than psychological, doesn't make it less real to some extent but for general work a 5K bench probably wont pay the owner back.

sberry · Dec 22, 2013

Its a work of art is what it is. Its not a bad thing.

madosta · Dec 23, 2013

Lol! If we all had to make ROI on the tools we have that get used 2x we'd all be screwed!!! Everyone has a different obsession.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

joe49 · Dec 23, 2013

Nice table. But wondering how are you leveling it, saw no jack bolts under the legs. Are you just shimming it.

dr_clyde · Dec 23, 2013

joe49 said:
Nice table. But wondering how are you leveling it, saw no jack bolts under the legs. Are you just shimming it.

I welded 3/4-10 nuts on the back of the plates that make up the bottom of the legs. Right now there are just bolts as levelers, but that thread will accept a variety of commercially available leveling feet. I'm just too busy right now to dink with getting the proper feet.

Nursepeter1973 · Dec 24, 2013

Awesome table.
I'm new into metal and I'm going to use your table as a foundation for mine... Am I ever going to use this for making $$$ no way (I'm a nurse)... do I like over engineering things so that when I make something I don't have to do it twice... definitely.

Duker · Dec 24, 2013

Dr_Clyde, that is another awesome example of a table, thanks for posting the build. I am jealous of these size tables as I would love to have room for something like this in my shop. :bowdown:

As an aside, I am a Texan now but was born in Holland and grew up skiing and racing on Carousel Mountain and marching in my wooden shoes in the tulip parade way back in the day! I am sure the city has exploded over time.

My Take on The Ultimate Welding Table

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