Just another heated parts washer thread. Big pic heavy!!

CalsXS2 · Apr 5, 2014

So I got me a Harbor Freight parts washer. I went to Tractor Supply and got the TSC-1000 petroleum based solution that I had read so much about. Well I gotta tell ya. I was not impressed. Especially for the $80 I spent for it. I wanted a miracle.

On top of that, my pump worked 1 night with that stuff then it locked up. I can't say for sure that the TSC-1000 locked the pump, but you know you're not supposed to run petroleum based cleaners through these cheap parts washers. All I know is it wouldn't pump the next day. I thought maybe there was a piece of crud in there so I tore it apart. That thing was locked up solid.

So I'm bitchin and moanin about this parts washer not being worth a ****. Then my Son tells me he just cleaned a set of really nasty carbs with Purple Power. And they turned out great.

I know all about the fact that some of those cleaners doesn't play well with aluminum. But I think the trick is not to leave it in there too long. My Sons carbs had no ill effects.

So I filled the tank with 2 gallons of Purple Power and 7 gallons of water. I put a rear drum in there that had caked on grease around the sprocket that the TSC-1000 would not remove. Even after soaking a week. I let it soak about 1/2 hour. Pulled it out and hit it with a brush and the stuff came right off.

In the middle of all this I decided to try some heat. After all, you don't wash dishes in cold water.

I went to Home Depot and got me a 2,000 watt, 120 volt water heater element and a thermostat. Did the install and some custom wiring. Heck. I even put a pretty light on it so I would know it was on. :laugh:

I rotated the sprocket to a side I had not yet done. Turned the heat on and once up to temp (135*), I let it soak about 1/2 hour again. When I pulled it out I seen something running down the side. I thought I melted the the aluminum.

But to my surprise it was the caked on grease.

I guess this mod isn't for everyone. But I'm tickled to death with it. If anyone want's specifics, just ask. I'm also open to criticism. Do you see any concerns, or areas for improvement. Lets hear it.

Oh ya. How hot should I run it. How hot does a dish washer get. You guys see any problems with getting my parts that hot.

Here was the hardest part. Bringing myself to drill a big *** hole in my brand new parts washer.

I decided to put the heating element here. I was going to put it on the front, inline with the pump, but I didn't want any electric stuff in the way.

For safety I built a wire cage around the element. Now I can sit a part on top of the cage if I need to. And if I get a really long part I can sit it diagonally across the tank.

A look at the back side.

I Shoe Gooed some plastic boxs on the back to enclose the electrical. Just a rough in here.

Firing it up.

Starting to get warm.

Starting to cook.

Cooking at 135*

Please let me know what you think.

EDIT TO ADD: PLEASE READ ENTIRE THREAD AS IMPORTANT INFO IS BEING ADDED AS I GO ALONG.

Bruce4310TX · Apr 5, 2014

man you did a great job, and im stealing this idea so throw out those part numbers. purple power works great cold but i can see the benefits of heat. yeh this is a great mod.

CalsXS2 · Apr 5, 2014

Bruce4310TX said:
man you did a great job, and im stealing this idea so throw out those part numbers. purple power works great cold but i can see the benefits of heat. yeh this is a great mod.

I'm at work right now. I'll edit my post when I get home and get to the part numbers.

There's some other things I figured out along the way too that will be helpful.

torqueman2002 · Apr 5, 2014

Nice write up. I too would like to know the part numbers. How is the t'stat set up, is it surface contact with the pan?

CalsXS2 · Apr 5, 2014

OK. Here's some part numbers. But truthfully, any generic brand will work as long as it is the same type. Most of this stuff was bought at Home Depot.

1. Camco part# 15120. Its just a 2,000 watt, 120 volt screw in water heater element.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Camco-Copper-Zinc-Chromate-Screw-in-Electric-Water-Heater-Element-15120/100163361

2. Camco part# 15449. What you want is a single pole thermostat with high limit control. It will say it's for 220v, but it's all in the way you wire it.

Here's how you wire it for 120 volt operation.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Camco-Metal-and-Plastic-Single-Pole-Thermostat-with-High-Limit-Control-15449/100114048

3. Camco part# 7223. It's an adapter to let's you use a screw in element. I recommend 2 of these. One on the outside, and one on the inside with the round flange cut off. This will take some custom fab work. I tried using just rubber washers on the inside but they just squished out of shape and leaked. Plus this comes with the thermostat bracket that you need. Home Depot no longer carries these. The link below is just for reference.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Camco-Metal-and-Rubber-Universal-Adapter-Kit-15712/100116725

I had to redo this thing 3 times to get it not to leak. I really think using the extra square gasket and flange is key. Plus I gooped the hell out of it.

Remember to use stainless steel fasteners. The adapter flange has 3/8'' hole's in it. So that's what I drilled mine, and used 3/8'' bolts. I learned after the first leak, which was where the heating element screwed into the flange, that I could not get a heating element socket on there with the bolts being so big. So I dropped down to 5/16''. I moved them to the outside of the hole to allow as much room as possible. I also ground a flat spot on the washers so they wouldn't interfere.

You might be able to see it here.

I ran into one problem that I need to mention. I hate metal box's. And since I didn't want to drill any hole's in the tank to mount it, I cut a plastic one down and Shoe Gooed it in place.

Here's the box that I cut in half and cut all the tabs off of.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-4-Gang-64-cu-in-SuperBlue-Non-Metallic-Hard-Shell-Switch-and-Outlet-Box-BH464AR/100205602

I mounted this to the back of the tank so it would be out of the way. I just tacked it in a few spots so I could take it off if I wanted to. Now here's the problem It has an open back. When I open the lid of the parts washer it is covered with condensation after cooking for awhile. And this is running in my electrical box.

It's an easy enough fix. I just need to seal the box all the way,,, or move it to the side. But hey. Put the damn thing where you want it. I just chose there.

Well I'm tired of typing. Let me know when you get started and we'll go from there.

188slo50 · Apr 5, 2014

I'm stealing your idea for the heat and I use the purple power stuff aswell works great.

Twiggss · Apr 5, 2014

I like the idea of adding the heat. :thumbup:

Richard Cranium · Apr 5, 2014

Great ideal, I will have to remember this one...thanks Richie

ADSR · Apr 5, 2014

How much difference in cleaning action with heated vs non heated?

James_B · Apr 5, 2014

Great idea.

CalsXS2 · Apr 5, 2014

torqueman2002 said:
Nice write up. I too would like to know the part numbers. How is the t'stat set up, is it surface contact with the pan?

Yep. Surface contact. There is 2 hole's on the backside of the thermostat that are heat sensor's. I went ahead and ground the paint off of the tank so I would get a more accurate reading. Doesn't really matter though as long as you use a infa red gun to check your temp. It doesn't matter what the thermostat thinks it is.

CalsXS2 · Apr 5, 2014

LORDDiESEL said:
How much difference in cleaning action with heated vs non heated?

It did make a difference. Unheated I had to hit it with a bruch. But it came off so easy my finger may have worked.

With the heat the grease just ran off when I pulled the part out of the water.

Codey · Apr 5, 2014

Very cool, may be implementing your idea.

Mustang51js · Apr 5, 2014

Just a FYI, I would try and wrap the wire around the screw on the element to lock it in there more. With higher watts you run the chance of the screw coming loose from the heating and cooling of the wire. Won't happen quick but over time if it's used a lot it may loosen up. I like the idea though.

CalsXS2 · Apr 5, 2014

Mustang51js said:
Just a FYI, I would try and wrap the wire around the screw on the element to lock it in there more. With higher watts you run the chance of the screw coming loose from the heating and cooling of the wire. Won't happen quick but over time if it's used a lot it may loosen up. I like the idea though.

Thanks for the tip.

It's funny you mention that because just today I had a guy tell me to check my screws on my circuit breaks. They get vibrated loose over time.

CalsXS2 · Apr 5, 2014

Mustang51js said:
Just a FYI, I would try and wrap the wire around the screw on the element to lock it in there more. With higher watts you run the chance of the screw coming loose from the heating and cooling of the wire. Won't happen quick but over time if it's used a lot it may loosen up. I like the idea though.

I thought about using stranded wire and crimping on a ring terminal. Does that sound reasonable.

Rex_A_Lott · Apr 5, 2014

Nice Idea. Thanks for the write-up. :beer:

188slo50 · Apr 5, 2014

Just strip the wire a little longer and curl it around the screw to the right. do it so as you tighten the screw it's pulling the wire around.

Dick in Wisconsin · Apr 5, 2014

Very good thread. Have you checked the thermostat to confirm it cuts out when over temp? What temp does it cut out at? 135 degrees? Is the heater independent of the pump? Can you heat and pump independently?

Thanks for the great description, pictures, video, and the part numbers.

About all you have left to do is put a temp gauge in the hose to monitor the temperature!

PFSard · Apr 5, 2014

Great thinking and execution. Thank you very much for sharing the detailed writeup with great pics.

Mustang51js · Apr 5, 2014

CalsXS2 said:
I thought about using stranded wire and crimping on a ring terminal. Does that sound reasonable.

Yeah that would work to, I mean you may be ok the way it is but just sharing my experience when wires are like that or backstabbed outlets. You could always check the connection every once in a while to see how it's holding up

GarageWarrior · Apr 5, 2014

Purple Power will work... however it's caustic and in a few months will basically destroys your parts washer - first it will eat the paint, then attack the metal. There are many posts about this happening. Water based cleaners need either plastic or stainless steel tank.

CalsXS2 · Apr 5, 2014

GarageWarrior said:
Purple Power will work... however it's caustic and in a few months will basically destroys your parts washer - first it will eat the paint, then attack the metal. There are many posts about this happening. Water based cleaners need either plastic or stainless steel tank.

What do you recommend then.

I used a petroleum based solvent and it locked my pump after 1 evening of use.

It says in the Harbor Freight instructions, and all the cheap parts washers, to use water based cleaner.

I'm not going to run out and buy a different parts washer. Any suggestions.

I guess I'll run it until it falls apart,,,,lol. I do have a friend that offered one of those plastic resin type utility sinks. Maybe I should take him up on it for back up.

CalsXS2 · Apr 5, 2014

**** in Wisconsin said:
Very good thread. Have you checked the thermostat to confirm it cuts out when over temp? What temp does it cut out at? 135 degrees? Is the heater independent of the pump? Can you heat and pump independently?

Thanks for the great description, pictures, video, and the part numbers.

About all you have left to do is put a temp gauge in the hose to monitor the temperature!

I haven't sat out there long enough this time around to catch the thermostat kick off. It's all ready off when I go out. I've checked the temp 1,000 times. It ranges from 132 -137 when I go out. I'd say that's close enough. That's just something I'm going to have to dial in once I figure out how hot to run it. I'm thinking about 140* just because the Shoe Goo I used to glue the box's on is only rated for 150*. I would hate to have all my box's fall off. :wtf:

The heater is independent of the pump. I can run either or, or both. What I did was run my main power to a receptacle on the back of the tank where all my wiring is. The receptacle is hot all the time. I plug the pump into that. I then ran a hot wire to the switch on the front of the tank. Then I ran a wire that the switch works to the heating element and my pretty red light. I'm really proud of that light you know. Out of all the threads I've seen no one else has one.

As far as a thermometer goes, I thought about using something like what sticks to the outside of a fish tank. But I doubt that I could find one that would go that high. I have about a 5* temp difference between the inside of the tank and the out side.

Anyone have any ideas about a thermometer. The infa-red gun I'm using is borrowed. So I won't always have it. I guess of course I could buy one,,,,lol.

Dick in Wisconsin · Apr 6, 2014

CalsXS2 said:
As far as a thermometer goes, I thought about using something like what sticks to the outside of a fish tank. But I doubt that I could find one that would go that high. I have about a 5* temp difference between the inside of the tank and the out side.

Anyone have any ideas about a thermometer. The infa-red gun I'm using is borrowed. So I won't always have it. I guess of course I could buy one,,,,lol.

Can you put a tee on the discharge line from the pump? Use a mechanical automotive temp gauge on it. Your local speed shop probably has all the parts you need to do it. Getting the right tee with the right threads might be hard to do, but I think you can figure it out. You're pretty resourceful!

I don't think the fish tank thermometer will go high enough. Interestingly ... I was thinking about using an inline fish tank heater ... but your deal slicker!

indianbullet · Apr 6, 2014

I wonder if anyone has ever tried to use an old portable dish washer as a parts washer? some type of hot water element to use to heat a small tank of solution that could be recirculated through the washer.
Back when I was a kid and working in a machine shop we had jet tanks that were just like a dishwasher on steroids and caustic soda sprayed through the jets at 180* I'm sure some of the talented minds on here could come up with a dandy idea like that.

CalsXS2 · Apr 6, 2014

indianbullet said:
I wonder if anyone has ever tried to use an old portable dish washer as a parts washer? some type of hot water element to use to heat a small tank of solution that could be recirculated through the washer.
Back when I was a kid and working in a machine shop we had jet tanks that were just like a dishwasher on steroids and caustic soda sprayed through the jets at 180* I'm sure some of the talented minds on here could come up with a dandy idea like that.

Do a search. Lots of guys use a dishwasher.

jsice78 · Apr 6, 2014

If I can find one of these or a stainless tub at an auction. This is close to what we use to clean things at the cheese plant I work at. Its bad ***.

Clean-Out-of-Place_Immersion_Parts_Washer_Sani-Matic.jpg

CalsXS2 · Apr 6, 2014

jsice78 said:
If I can find one of these or a stainless tub at an auction. This is close to what we use to clean things at the cheese plant I work at. Its bad ***.

Now that's a parts washer. I think I have parts washer envy. :bowdown:

It's a shame that this tank I have won't last many year's to come using a recommended water based solution. I've read that even the solution Harbor Freight sells eats the tank as well. So it's just not purple power.

I think there's at least a few category of guys that buy parts washers.

1. There's the Professional's who have a shop that need something like that big bad *** thing.

2. Then there's the guy who works on a fair amount of stuff, but not a shop. He needs a pretty good one.

3. Then there's the guy's like me who will use it very little. Just a Week End Warrior as they say.

Hell. All I'm doing is restoring a couple of old Yamaha's. A 72 XS2 650, and a 73 TX 750 to be exact.

After I get those project's done, I will very seldom use the the thing. I think it would be unreasonable to tie up a bunch of money that I need for other project's in anything fancier than what I have. So I just hope the damn thing lasts that long. It will be a shame if it doesn't. But then again. I only paid $64 for it.

juiced10 · Apr 6, 2014

I have the Harbor Freight parts washer using that TSC washer fluid. I have had it in there for 4 years or so and no ill effects. Pump is working like the day I got it :dunno:

Great idea with the heater. I may try it ...Thanks

CalsXS2 · Apr 6, 2014

juiced10 said:
I have the Harbor Freight parts washer using that TSC washer fluid. I have had it in there for 4 years or so and no ill effects. Pump is working like the day I got it Great idea with the heater. I may try it ...Thanks

I'm no expert. But from I've read, you may not want to heat a petroleum based solution. I think the TSC-1000 has a flash point of 140*. So how hot you want to get that stuff.

big.jim · Apr 6, 2014

we used to use a heated jet wash parts washer in the ink factory i worked at , it had a rotating basket that you put your parts in then closed the lid and they got sprayed while rotating , ran on a timer and if you left it 10 mins after finish with the lid open your parts were warm and dry

188slo50 · Apr 6, 2014

big.jim said:
we used to use a heated jet wash parts washer in the ink factory i worked at , it had a rotating basket that you put your parts in then closed the lid and they got sprayed while rotating , ran on a timer and if you left it 10 mins after finish with the lid open your parts were warm and dry

Are was similar except parts went in baskets and jets rotated around them. It would clean anything to like new.

Jagmandave · Apr 6, 2014

FWIW, I have Safety Clean solvent in my HF tank and have for over 15 years now, the original pump still works a treat....

I built mine a little differently tho, I sat it on top of the 30 gal safety clean barrel and dropped the pump down into the solvent - not on the bottom of course, then ran a hose up to the nozzle in the tank. For drain back I just used the hole that HF already had in the bung.

efb16acrx · Apr 6, 2014

At work we have a 30 gallon heated plastic tank parts washer nobody used because it was filled with some nasty, oily **** solution that didn't work at all. So about 6 months ago I took it out, scrubbed it down to get all the old solution out, fixed the heater and filled it with a 50/50 purple power and water.

I set the thermostat on it to 120 and that seems to be a good temp for it. Practically melts the dirt off of stuff, and evaporation out of the tank is about 1/2 gallon a week. Every other week I put a gallon of water or purple power in it.

Haven't had any issues with it so far. We also put a separate outside filter on it that gets changed every other month. Not something we use every day, but between the size of it, how much we use it, and the filter its still clean after 6 months. Only other thing I did was stick some of the white oil only pigmats in there. They float on top and soak up some of the oils that get into it.

DCarr · Apr 7, 2014

I had thought about doing exactly this to my small parts washer, just hadnt ever gotten around to it.

I did use a concoction of Purple Power, generic Oxyclean and Water heated up in my Hot Tank ( dial says max heat is 195* ) and it worked great !! This is in a 35 gal. tank, I used 5 - 7 gal. of Purple Power, 3 lbs. of Oxyclean and topped it off with Water.

gungatim · Apr 7, 2014

you just got a bad pump, I used solvent in my HF for 4 yrs. now. sometimes it locks up but I just reach down pop the cover and start it with my hand. they are cheap but they can handle the solvent just fine.

I do like your idea of heating though. I've got an old parts washer made from a huge diesel engine oil pan that I stuck outside after I got my HF washer and was wondering what to do with it. I may make a heated one just for fun. BTW, I think they make a water heater element that is a bolt on flange, not screw on, IIRC. I will check. I think that may seal better...and purple power has lye in it. It's like oven cleaner. works great but will trash aluminum if you don't wash it off or neutralize it quickly...

GarageWarrior · Apr 7, 2014

CalsXS2 said:
What do you recommend then.

I used a petroleum based solvent and it locked my pump after 1 evening of use.

It says in the Harbor Freight instructions, and all the cheap parts washers, to use water based cleaner.

I'm not going to run out and buy a different parts washer. Any suggestions.

I guess I'll run it until it falls apart,,,,lol. I do have a friend that offered one of those plastic resin type utility sinks. Maybe I should take him up on it for back up.

I think you just had a bad pump. I've been using the same harbor freight washer with kerosene for several years.

BTW, TSC Parts washer fluid is Stoddard solvent (aka White spirit), basically a light grade Kerosene. You can buy Kerosene for $5/gal at many gas stations, so it would work out a little cheaper than buying from TSC. Kerosene works well on grease and oil grime and unlike caustic cleaners does not need rinsing. Also you can add Gunk SC3 Super Concentrate Degreaser to Kerosene (10 parts Kerosene, 1 part Gunk SC3, available from NAPA). SC3 is a detergent formulated for petroleum solvents, and acts as a surfactant for better cleaning power.

Caustic cleaners work better than kerosene on regular dirt, but you really should rinse them out afterwards. Purple power/lye based cleaners are caustic and if any gets trapped in crevices/bearings, it will eat paint, plating and metal and cause components failure down the road. I think caustic based cleaners are better used outside with a sprayer where you can rinse parts afterwards with a hose, or in your shop sink.

CalsXS2 · Apr 7, 2014

gungatim said:
you just got a bad pump, I used solvent in my HF for 4 yrs. now. sometimes it locks up but I just reach down pop the cover and start it with my hand. they are cheap but they can handle the solvent just fine.

I do like your idea of heating though. I've got an old parts washer made from a huge diesel engine oil pan that I stuck outside after I got my HF washer and was wondering what to do with it. I may make a heated one just for fun. BTW, I think they make a water heater element that is a bolt on flange, not screw on, IIRC. I will check. I think that may seal better...and purple power has lye in it. It's like oven cleaner. works great but will trash aluminum if you don't wash it off or neutralize it quickly...

I thought about the square element. I did use the big square rubber gasket on the inside and out. So the sealing surface is the same. But With the trouble I had getting this not to leak, I decided against it. All though it would be a little cheaper in the long run.

I basically messed with the so much I just permatexed the hell out of it. Now if the element goes out, all I have to do is cut the permatex around the element. Otherwise, your trying to get the other loose.

I guess it's six one way and half a dozen the other.

James_B · Apr 7, 2014

Back in the 70s, I used to run a small Printed Circuit Board prototyping workshop. We use heated ferric chloride in a home brew etch tank that was essentially a silicon sealed glass fish tank.

The etch worked faster when it was heated, so we used a couple of glass encased fish tank heaters with the bimetallic internal thermostat tweaked to raise the temperature past what was safe for fish.

The etch process also worked better if the tank was agitated, so we fitted a grid of drilled PVC piping on the bottom of the tank, and fed the pipes from a low pressure air supply (vacuum cleaner in blow mode).

Some of the same design features may work in a heated parts washer.

Just another heated parts washer thread. Big pic heavy!!

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