QuickJack Portable Lift - Setup, Use, Review

Dolfan · Jul 5, 2014

This is a review and evaluation of the new portable lift product from Ranger the QuickJack. The product comes in two versions a 3500# model and a 5000# model. I’ll demonstrate both models here so folks can see the differences and see which will best apply to their use.

First I’m reviewing the setup and use of the 3500# model. This lift setup was using with the 12v power unit to make the system completely portable and easily powered when standard AC voltage may not be accessible like at a race track

Delivery and Packaging
The system ships easily in two boxes, one smaller box that contains the hydraulic power unit and the other with the jacks themselves. These were shipped to my door via freight delivery and were manageable to move into the garage as individual pieces.

Here are the boxes

Setup and Test
As with any new tool I like to get this setup and run it once before I really need it and then rush into something. I setup things in my garage bay to test without a car on it for lifting. The system is super easy to get up and running really just a few things to do

Add hydraulic fluid
Determine your power source
Pressurize the air tank to 30-40 psi used to assist with collapsing the lifts

All the parts ready or test

Adding Fluid

This is easy and then it is just hookup the lines with the quick disconnect fittings that are supplied and then power up the unit. In this case that was using jumper cables to car in the next bay.

Here is the system all hooked up and ready

And here is the first test with the jacks fully extended

Dolfan · Jul 5, 2014

First use at the track - Road Atlanta

Road Atlanta

The new lift system went along as part of our standard gear setup for a SCCA Time Trial event at Road Atlanta. It’s not uncommon for us to be swapping all 4 wheels between sessions from different compound of tires from morning to night for performance reasons. So driving the car between the jacks and then sliding these under and lifting the car makes for a convenient way to do this several times a day. Of course we don’t want problems at the track but it is racing and this also gives us a quick and secure way to get the car up if we have a bake, suspension, or driveline issue and we need access under the car.

You can see here the jacks are placed under the car ready to lift, for reference this is a E36 M3 and its weight is roughly 2750#.

The 3500# model falls a bit short of reaching both factory jacking points but on a car like this with a front weight bias I placed the lift in front to hit the jacking point spot on and then left the rear to be in front a few inches. Then just hooking up the lines and in our case for power I decided just to use the race cars battery that is still a full size battery and it easily accessed in the truck.

The lifting is smooth and steady and brings the car up in little more than 10 seconds, then just swing the locking supports into place and the car is secure and ready for maintenance.

Here is the car in the lifted position

Good access to the entire middle of the car and all four corners

My Co-Driver(wife) changing tires for the next session

It's very nice to easily get the car up and to all four wheels and not need to mess with jack stands at the track

Several racers came up to check out the system and many likes how low it collapsed which of course if pretty critical for many race cars.

Dolfan · Jul 5, 2014

Storage and Packing

Storage and Packing

My tow and support vehicle is a 2014 RAM 1500 with a 5’ 7” bed. This allows the 3500# model to fit in with a couple inches to spare. People with enclosed trailers will have no issues finding a place for these, probably stored vertically tied to E-track or other secure storage idea. From my use in the truck bed I wanted it to be easy to load and unload as needed but still stack things on top of the lifts, so I built this quick storage unit to slide the jacks into and I can leave this in the truck bed and stack other equipment on top and still easily get to the jacks.

Just a little accessory to make life easy!! :thumbup:

Dolfan · Jul 5, 2014

Daytona 14 hours

Daytona :bowdown:

The very next weekend the QuickJack is packed up and headed to Daytona for the 14 hour ChumpCar race with my team Big Deck Racing. In this case the car is a E30 BMW a bit lighter at roughly #2350 and slightly smaller. Finding lift points on the E30 was easy and within minutes of us arriving we had the car up in the garage space ready for race prep like brake bleeding and checking other last minute things.

Whole crew, wives and all getting the car ready to go!

Teammate David rolling right under the car from front to back to bleed all 4 brakes before the race.

This is where a lift like this will really shine, it’s not uncommon to see motors swapped, transmissions pulled, brakes rebuilt or other issues at these events that are based on “budget” $500 stock cars running endurance races. Yes, plenty of things can brake in a 14 hour race! We didn’t have this lift at our previous race when we lost a clutch and at the track with the car pulled part way onto the trailer and working around the ramps was less than ideal and somewhat of a hazard. This setup will really be great, although we hope to not use it too much!!!!

The Quickjack will be headed to VIR, Sebring, and AMP with Big Deck Racing so follow along on the use at the track and our success or failures!

Big Deck Racing

smokey0810 · Jul 5, 2014

That is a pretty sweet setup. I like the fact you can hook it up to a car battery to get it lifted up. Any thoughts on putting jack stands under the car for added safety, especially when working under it for longer periods of time?
Very, very sweet! Good luck with your racing, and keep posts on how these hold up over time.

Dolfan · Jul 5, 2014

smokey0810 said:
Any thoughts on putting jack stands under the car for added safety, especially when working under it for longer periods of time?

Really don't see the need for jack stands with this setup as these are lifted then the safety bar is in position so the hydraulics are not in use. You have much more contact at a wider stand and more point of contact with the ground than you would with jack stands, not to mention the QuickJack will likely be on your jacking points.

smokey0810 · Jul 5, 2014

Guess I missed the part about the safety bar. Pretty darn sweet! Guy at work wants to get some for his EVO for use in his garage. Will be sure to point him this way.

ThreePointedStar · Jul 5, 2014

Thanks for the great review!

cspcrx · Jul 5, 2014

Great review. I saw these during my lift hunt. They look like a great track side tool! Looking at your post makes me want to brave my 105 deg garage and install my new front suspension! To hot in az to race right now, but gives me time to get it ready for this fall. Enjoy and good luck at your races! I am jelous!

Dolfan · Jul 5, 2014

Hey everyone I've got more things to post including a video that shows much more detail.

I've had several folks that I know that I think are interested in these as they are portable but at the same time they look to use these in there garage for maintenance project as they don't have a lift and aren't looking to install one at this time. I think for that segment of the market this is a great option, far better than the one I've seen that has two big runners that you drive onto and only lifts the car about 16-18" and you have to work around the runners like a 4 post.

I'll post more including the video shortly.

TX4runner · Jul 7, 2014

Thanks for the review. I have an E36 M3 as well, but mines more stock, so it weighs more. Can you explain a little more how your jacking since it doesn't reach both of the stock points. You use the actual front mount and then just using what ever reaches in the rear?

Also, are you having fluid leak out of the quick disconnects? It looks like there is a wet spot near the disconnects in one of the photos of the E36.

Dolfan · Jul 7, 2014

TX4runner said:
Thanks for the review. I have an E36 M3 as well, but mines more stock, so it weighs more. Can you explain a little more how your jacking since it doesn't reach both of the stock points. You use the actual front mount and then just using what ever reaches in the rear?

Also, are you having fluid leak out of the quick disconnects? It looks like there is a wet spot near the disconnects in one of the photos of the E36.

OK, this is the 3500# model and it is a little shorter than the 5000# model but it is also more lightweight to sling around at the track I think.

What I did on my E36 M3 was to position the rubber jacking blocks right onto the proper location on the front of the car. I did this as my M3 is certainly carries more weight up front than the rear. Then I positioned the back as far back as possible to get as close to the rear jacking point.

I did a quick partial lift to make contact and just begin the lift to make certain that all was good and then went up all the way. The 5000# model will grab these jacking points perfectly.

As far as the leaks, part of that was my sloppy attempt to plug in the connectors, if you don't get them in quickly and fiddle around you will get some fluid leaking. That said it is tricky to try to get the connector in quickly and first shot to be 100% leak free.

Stay tuned, i have more stuff on the 5000# model as well to post.

Falcon67 · Jul 7, 2014

Nice write up on the jacks. I'm thinking more about this item because sometime soon I'll have to swap tires on one drag car at the track. One on the street, one in the box (Call her car Luke lol ). I'm finding that while Hoosier drag radials do hook, they don't 60' consistently like a M/T drag slick. I switched tires with the wife's car (down with motor issues) and won enough last week to buy one of these things. (sorry - money went elsewhere already, $650 in truck tires)

Dolfan · Jul 7, 2014

Falcon67 said:
Nice write up on the jacks. I'm thinking more about this item because sometime soon I'll have to swap tires on one drag car at the track. One on the street, one in the box (Call her car Luke lol ). I'm finding that while Hoosier drag radials do hook, they don't 60' consistently like a M/T drag slick. I switched tires with the wife's car (down with motor issues) and won enough last week to buy one of these things. (sorry - money went elsewhere already, $650 in truck tires)

Yeah, guys like you are the primary market this was designed for so I think you would get good use from it. Most drag racers I've know have a lot of tinkering to do at the track, much of it drive line, so I think this would really be helpful as the entire drive line is exposed and accessible.

Dolfan · Jul 8, 2014

Had several questions about the lifting heights

- 3500# unit has a lifting height of 20"
- 5000# unit has a lifting height of 22"

Both units come with two sets of rubber pads that sit in the lift and meet your car at the lifting point. Not sure the exact thickness but my guess is one set is 2" and the other may be 3".

Given my vehicles are so low I have only used the smaller pads, but for "normal" cars you can use the larger sets.

Falcon67 · Jul 8, 2014

>Most drag racers I've know have a lot of tinkering to do at the track

Eh, maybe. This is bracket racing - the guys that are tinkering during time trials are the ones at the buy back window later. However, it does happen at the bigger money races. If you pull a long way and break something, you pretty much want to get back in it to save your investment. The heads up/one power adder/275 tire crowd - that is more true. They all want to be one click south of blowing the front sheet metal off the car. They are universally screwing with or breaking something.

I would need my subframe connectors at least 18" up to get a trans out from under the car.

Dolfan · Jul 8, 2014

Falcon67 said:
>I would need my subframe connectors at least 18" up to get a trans out from under the car.

That would be tight but with the thick pads you could probably swing it.

The ChumpCar series you will see so many people doing fairly extensive repairs. It's similar to what you said about making repairs that you plan for a month or two and prepare, travel, pay an entrance fee then plan for a 14 hour race. If you break something 2 hours in, even with an hour or two repair you still have 10 hours of racing!!!

I think this type of lift will be popular with that group for sure. It can make a transmission swap way easier with some space and a secure platform for the work. We lost our transmission at Road Atlanta early this year and this would have helped us a ton.

Dolfan · Jul 9, 2014

OK, I've got this video that should help some folks with looking at the #3500 unit being used at the track.

The car lifted in the video is an E36 M3 and approximately 2800#

More information and video on the 5000# unit coming soon.

vettex2 · Jul 11, 2014

That is SWEET !

Do you think you could use quick disconnects on the rams directly ?:

How about using this for dirt cars at the track ?Maybe weld a piece of sheetmetal on the bottom to keep it stable ?

Dolfan · Jul 12, 2014

vettex2 said:
Do you think you could use quick disconnects on the rams directly ?:

I guess you are thinking to remove the short line off the jack itself? While I guess you could fit the quick disconnects to that with the proper threaded adapter maybe, but I think then it would be harder to get connected. I think this short line put the connector where it is easier to get to and gives a bit more length to get to the power unit.

Dolfan · Jul 20, 2014

OK, had comments and request about the 5000# unit.

This is the #5000 unit being setup on my C5 Z06. This car is slammed pretty low to the ground and still no issue with fitting the pieces under the car. One very nice feature of the 5000# model is the extended length over the 3500#. For cars like the vette with very specific jacking positions it has the length to catch those points perfectly.

Also, this 5000# unit is setup with a 110v power unit, so I'm plugging it into my extension cord from the garage. And we aren't really pushing the capacity in this test as the Z06 only weights about 3120#, but the tires need to be swapped for an event! :thumbup:

The other thing that both models have that I realized when putting the corvette up to change to race tires was that there are two preset locking height locations built into the lifts. In this case since I'm only swapping out wheels and it easier if you don't have to lift the wheel as much, I'm using the lower setting.

And another view with the wheel all swapped over and ready to drop it back to the ground. This makes for a nice secure method to change all 4 tires.

When completed if storing these in the garage its easy to just tilt the pieces up onto the wheels and roll them into there storage spot, not really needing to lift them.

shlbygt · Jul 21, 2014

I did not think these were available until August. Where did you get it?

Mahoneyj · Jul 21, 2014

So you can get a DC version or an AC version and there is no provision to run AC or DC on the same system correct?

Dolfan · Jul 21, 2014

Mahoneyj said:
So you can get a DC version or an AC version and there is no provision to run AC or DC on the same system correct?

That would rock, but to my knowledge there is no dual purpose power unit. I think the real decision is if you have no place to take it to the track, go ahead with the 110v unit but if you are going to the track then 12v.

You can always use the 12v in the garage same as at the track.

Mahoneyj · Jul 21, 2014

Dolfan said:
That would rock, but to my knowledge there is no dual purpose power unit. I think the real decision is if you have no place to take it to the track, go ahead with the 110v unit but if you are going to the track then 12v.

You can always use the 12v in the garage same as at the track.

Ya that's what I was thinking, go DC and use a jump box to power it at the track and home.

Dolfan · Sep 6, 2014

More updates and use of the QuickJack.

I loaned the #5000 unit to my racing buddy David who needed to do some work on a couple of his Miatas. Now the #5000 unit is overkill for a Miata but the #3500 was loaded and headed to the track with me.

David couldn't stop raving about the lift system, his favorite part is being able to use both the midway point to just lift the car up to a good height to do engine work without killing his back. Then go up all the way for work under the car. I agree that is a huge benefit.

Davids garage ceiling is relatively low at maybe 8 to 8.5 ft so a typical lift just won't fly. I think there are many people in the market for something like this not to be portable to take to the track, but just use at home!

A few pics of the Miata on the lift.

David's verdict was pretty simple when he asked me "Hey you don't need this back do you!" The one thing that he did note was similar to my report, the quick disconnects just leak a bit too much fluid as you try to connect and disconnect the lines. I'm going to try to purchase a different set and see if we can solve that issue.

More to come!

Dolfan · Sep 14, 2014

Quick update from the track

Testing day at TGPR in Alabama, it was great to have the QuickJack.

I had just rebuilt the entire rear end of the car and expected to run it then double check things. Sure enough found a couple things just a little loose and after that adjustment no issues.

Screen%2BShot%2B2014-09-14%2Bat%2B11.57.27%2BAM.png

Easy to have the car up good and high to work in just a minute or so. Also swap out the right side tires several times over the day as the right side gets abused at this track.

If you run track days or race this is a great tool to have.

Mighty · Sep 15, 2014

Fantastic! Thanks so much for the review! I really appreciate seeing the BL-5000 being used under the Miata. My Miata is my smallest car, and I wanted to be sure I could buy the BL-5000 and have it still work with its short wheelbase. I may have to remove my front mudflaps, though. This would be a unit specifically for my garage.

Where did you end up buying it from?

rmsg0040 · Sep 15, 2014

Any pics of the BL-5000 at full height or even lifting a suv/cuv

Thanks

Falcon67 · Sep 15, 2014

Dolfan said:
That would rock, but to my knowledge there is no dual purpose power unit. I think the real decision is if you have no place to take it to the track, go ahead with the 110v unit but if you are going to the track then 12v.

You can always use the 12v in the garage same as at the track.

You can buy a genset for the track for $330/$299 on sale - I'd not bother with any 12v business. You're out $1300 for the lift, what's another $300. And the gen set is a lot lighter than a set of 6V golf cart batteries or a pair of deep cycle 12V. Assuming your battery pack lasts all day.

Dolfan · Sep 15, 2014

rmsg0040 said:
Any pics of the BL-5000 at full height or even lifting a suv/cuv
Thanks

None, yet sorry. I don't have a SUV and my new truck is so darn high off the ground I wouldn't use the Quickjack as it would probably only lift it 2-3 inches!

If I get someone with something that I can test it I'll post that.

Dolfan · Sep 15, 2014

Falcon67 said:
You can buy a genset for the track for $330/$299 on sale - I'd not bother with any 12v business. You're out $1300 for the lift, what's another $300. And the gen set is a lot lighter than a set of 6V golf cart batteries or a pair of deep cycle 12V. Assuming your battery pack lasts all day.

I agree for folks that have the room for all those items I agree, but those of us with open trailers and just a pickup truck as the support vehicle, things get tight.

I lifted my car three time Saturday running it right off the race car battery, it works great, given the car is on track and charging for 20-35 minutes it is no issue at all.

If I had an enclosed trailer you bet I'd have more equipment, but for a more modest operation this has worked out great.

Dolfan · Oct 17, 2014

Back at the track this past weekend and a buddy needed to find an oil leak, so I directed him to put it on the QuickJack to get a good look at things.

This is the 3500# unit with the 12v power unit, just plugged it into the battery of the car being lifted! The whole paddock was checking it out.

Top_Fuel · Oct 20, 2014

Dolfan...just curious what that storage unit is made out of that you have pictured back in post #3? That looks pretty slick...but I can't tell what material you made it from. Is that PVC or something?!? Can you post a few details? Thanks!

PoorOwner · Nov 5, 2014

is the BL5000 available yet?
Also the bendpak site list the BL5000 to be lower than the 3500, not higher, just 20", but when I click on specs of each, it says the BL5000 does seem to have about 2" higher.

http://www.bendpak.com/Shop-Equipment/QuickJack/

I would really like to see the "blocks" lift the factory areas on some cars, newer cars are so specific and the side skirt only have a cut out at that area to expose the lift point, not full rail exposed like your BMW. (plus it could crush the rail pretty bad if not using the right location, usually not an issue with a lightened race car, but..) It would be nice to have a beam adapter or something so the blocks can be placed in the proper location. But I guess some kind of 1/4" steel beam would work in a pinch. (still would put jackstands under the control arms or something just in case)

cnk · Nov 5, 2014

PoorOwner said:
is the BL5000 available yet?
Also the bendpak site list the BL5000 to be lower than the 3500, not higher, just 20", but when I click on specs of each, it says the BL5000 does seem to have about 2" higher.

http://www.bendpak.com/Shop-Equipment/QuickJack/

I would really like to see the "blocks" lift the factory areas on some cars, newer cars are so specific and the side skirt only have a cut out at that area to expose the lift point, not full rail exposed like your BMW. (plus it could crush the rail pretty bad if not using the right location, usually not an issue with a lightened race car, but..) It would be nice to have a beam adapter or something so the blocks can be placed in the proper location. But I guess some kind of 1/4" steel beam would work in a pinch. (still would put jackstands under the control arms or something just in case)

It's available and some have it already. I placed my order back on Sept. 29th, but they had some production delays with the hydraulic cylinders. ETA is not late November.

simple man · Nov 5, 2014

I've noticed that people are referring to the lift for the BL3500 unit as 22 inches. According to the BendPak website, the amount of lift for the frame of the BL3500 is only 16.5 inches, distance from the ground to the top of the lifting frame at full extension. According to BendPak, the 22 inch lift is the distance from the top of the stacked lifting pads to the ground, but since the top of the stacked pads were already x inches above the ground at the beginning of the lift it doesn't seem like a"22 inch lift".

If I subtract the 3 inch thickness of the collapsed frame itself from the height of the expanded frame I only get an actual lift of 13.5 inches.

Am I missing something?

I would be curious if someone who is using a BL 3500 or BL 5000 could confirm how much high the a fixed point on the car is before and after lifting the vehicle.

Thanks

Rick

TxT858 · Nov 6, 2014

Bendpak's website has the two numbers mixed up. The BL3500 has a 20 inch lift height and the BL5000 has a 22 inch lift height. Talking for the BL5000, the 22 inch height can be achieve with stacking both the smaller and bigger rubber blocks to achieve 22 inches in height. I have the BL5000 and I have raised my car with only the smaller rubber blocks and it is indeed 20 inches from the ground to the jackpoint of the car. If I stacked the bigger rubber blocks on top of the smaller rubber block, then I would get that extra 2 inches. Hope that helps...

simple man · Nov 7, 2014

TxT858,

Thanks for the "real life" numbers.

Rick

simple man · Nov 7, 2014

For those people using either the QuickJack or other similar lifts, i.e. scissors lifts, is there any concern about the lift pads on the lift not matching up with the lifting points along the pinch wields? Generally, is there sufficient strength along the pinch wield to support the car even if you are not lifting at the "correct" spot?

Rick

QuickJack Portable Lift - Setup, Use, Review

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Banned

Well-known member

Well-known member

Member

New member

Well-known member

New member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Active member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Active member

Member

Active member

Active member