Above 1200 Sq/FT New Garage/Barn Build
- Thread starter Samh
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
sublime68charger
Well-known member
I vote Metal Roof,
Post and Beam also.
just my thoughts
Location?
Post and Beam also.
just my thoughts
Location?
Canton GA, which is about 40 miles north of atlanta, almost qualifies as north GA.
Metal roof will definitely be easier, but the last barn I did, had a metal roof, and that seems like I am pretty much saying I will never be on it after it is up, and that roof was only a 5/12 pitch, and this one will probably be a 10/12.
Currently, the only thing swaying me away from Post and Beam is never having worked with green wood, and doing the mortise and tenon work. I have though about using connector plates like they do with the Sand Creek post and beam barns, and have also considered using Timberlinx connectors
Seriously considering doing a Dutch style post and beam barn. Have got it drawn out, and am now looking at where I am going to put it. I will get some pics, but the two choices are up at the top of the property by the house, which is relatively flat, but has challenges with power and really tearing up the yard. Or at the bottom of the property that is fairly wooded, but no issues on power. I am thinking that going the route of the wooded part would give me some large fairly straight pine trees to use for wood for the barn.
I will get some pics of the two areas to post tomorrow
I will get some pics of the two areas to post tomorrow
slab is very regional, but monolithic is especially when there's no dwelling. Very inexpensive to thicken the soot out of the slab edges
epoxy in anchor bolts for anything that goes vertical (thicken the slab anywhere where you might want to land loads later)
beyond that, going traditional pole barn as you know, "foundation" relies on getting poles beneath frostline before pouring slab
epoxy in anchor bolts for anything that goes vertical (thicken the slab anywhere where you might want to land loads later)
beyond that, going traditional pole barn as you know, "foundation" relies on getting poles beneath frostline before pouring slab
I will put in J bolts when they pour the slab. Planned on having 4 "piers" where I would have a post for the barn too.
Good luck with making decisions to make shop just how you want it.
Notice your location is Georgia, so Update GJ Profile so you won't get that same question thousand times as this threads progresses into future.
Lots of great ideas in GJ threads for "Build Wish List" . . . or What Would You Have Done Different, etc. Use Advanced Search or even Google to dig into prior GJ threads. Examples are pull cans put into concrete, LED lights embedded in concrete underneath lift, 18 ft wide door, etc.
Notice your location is Georgia, so Update GJ Profile so you won't get that same question thousand times as this threads progresses into future.
Lots of great ideas in GJ threads for "Build Wish List" . . . or What Would You Have Done Different, etc. Use Advanced Search or even Google to dig into prior GJ threads. Examples are pull cans put into concrete, LED lights embedded in concrete underneath lift, 18 ft wide door, etc.
This will be the third shop, and the 2nd barn. Hopefully the 3rd time is the charm for this one. The 2nd barn was a raised center aisle bar, that had a loft 2/3 of the length, an 8ft sidewall, and an 8x10 sliding door. I decided to do the dutch barn so I could have a loft around the sides, and still keep the center clear all the way to the roof. Also didn't like the idea of having to get on the metal roof to stain the wood. And I am going 9ft side wall and probably a 10x12 door
Toolfool
Well-known member
It's about time !! 
Keep the updates coming.
Keep the updates coming.
Progress Pics Early October 2018
slab is 32x60. Did Grade Beams every 15ft. Also had relief done for 4 garage doors. Originally was going to do 2 in the middle, but thought it might look kind of strange. The doors on each end will most likely be decorative, i.e. they will stay shut, or may be ornamental. Either way though, am going to frame out as if they were regular garage doors in case I change my mind in the future.
Still debating on 10ft side walls vs 12 ft. Am going to stick build it, as most of the timber taken from the site was eat up with beetles. Hope to have the slag finished this week that will go around the building as well. Then planning on getting a 40ft shipping container dropped off as well.
slab is 32x60. Did Grade Beams every 15ft. Also had relief done for 4 garage doors. Originally was going to do 2 in the middle, but thought it might look kind of strange. The doors on each end will most likely be decorative, i.e. they will stay shut, or may be ornamental. Either way though, am going to frame out as if they were regular garage doors in case I change my mind in the future.
Still debating on 10ft side walls vs 12 ft. Am going to stick build it, as most of the timber taken from the site was eat up with beetles. Hope to have the slag finished this week that will go around the building as well. Then planning on getting a 40ft shipping container dropped off as well.
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Long term planing delivering the goods! Nice to see your progress. Beautiful setting. Have you considered a raised truss on the 10ft wall? Get enough interior space for a lift and if split with attic trusses, would keep some storage space if needed.
Thanks. No, my plan was to frame a floor for storage or possible apartment above. Then frame the roof instead of roof trusses. I am leaning toward 12 ft at the moment, as the cost difference isn't that much.
As far as lifts go, most of the stuff I do is machining/fabricating and motorcycles. So I have thought about getting one of these https://www.atlasautoequipment.com/products/lifts/specialty-lifts/psp-6000 for a lift.
Finally had time to start framing. Decided on 12ft walls which put the total height from grade to peak at 26ft. The thread I read on here about garage height got me a little worried, so called the county to make sure I wouldn't have an issue. Here, the ordinance is the secondary building can't be taller than the main structure or 25ft, whichever is shorter. Talking to the zoning administrator, and they said 26 was too high, but asked how I was measuring. I said grade to peak. They said it is from the threshold of the front door to the mid line of the pitch of the roof. So all good with the 12 ft walls.
I will say, 12 ft walls look a lot shorter when they are on the ground. And a lot lighter too. My cousin helped me on the framing, and raising those walls by hand was some work.
After we finished the first day, a neighbor drive his tractor/forklift down for me to use. Went to use it the next day, and the battery had died....lol So we just raised the rest by hand. Got a lot done in 10 hours. Rain is starting again, and is supposed to stay for about a week, so he and I will get to recuperate from the last two days.
I will say, 12 ft walls look a lot shorter when they are on the ground. And a lot lighter too. My cousin helped me on the framing, and raising those walls by hand was some work.
After we finished the first day, a neighbor drive his tractor/forklift down for me to use. Went to use it the next day, and the battery had died....lol So we just raised the rest by hand. Got a lot done in 10 hours. Rain is starting again, and is supposed to stay for about a week, so he and I will get to recuperate from the last two days.
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Got the small wall sections between the garage doors framed this weekend, and got the double top plate installed around the rest of the walls.
The plan is to lift the headers into place and nail up, then work on getting the LVL beams and posts set. Then can start on framing the loft floor. Got a little ambitious and already ordered the beams, posts, and all the 2x12x16's the lumber yard had thinking I would knock the front wall out in a few hours. LOL.
The plan is to lift the headers into place and nail up, then work on getting the LVL beams and posts set. Then can start on framing the loft floor. Got a little ambitious and already ordered the beams, posts, and all the 2x12x16's the lumber yard had thinking I would knock the front wall out in a few hours. LOL.
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I am sure I will. Wall height was specifically an issue in my last two shops.
Got a little more done before the rain came today. Apparently, we have had double the amount of rainfall as Seattle the last 2 or 3 months.
Got the rest of the rim joists up, and starting putting up the second section of floor joists. Did them all by hand. I regret doing that...lol
Got the rest of the rim joists up, and starting putting up the second section of floor joists. Did them all by hand. I regret doing that...lol
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Got the floor joists and blocking done. Looks like one LVL beam has a little bow in it to the tune of about 3/4" in the center of a 32' span. Realized it when I got to the last piece of blocking and the wall was 3/8" short. Wouldn't have been too big a deal had I not toenailed all the floor joists as I went.
Not sure if that falls into the range of acceptable tolerances for framing, but it has been bugging me ever since I realized it.
On a side note, my shipping container finally arrived. Now I don't have to keep all my tools in my truck or cart them up and down from the house.
Not sure if that falls into the range of acceptable tolerances for framing, but it has been bugging me ever since I realized it.
On a side note, my shipping container finally arrived. Now I don't have to keep all my tools in my truck or cart them up and down from the house.
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Got the beam straightened to within an 1/8 across the 32' span. That was a lot of fun, pulling out all the toe nails for the floor joists. Unfortunately, straightening the beam caused the in wall to bow in about 1/2" in the center. Plan to fix that will be remove the blocking over that beam, separate the floor joists, re-plumb the wall and nail it all back together.
I keep telling myself it isn't a watch......
I keep telling myself it isn't a watch......
rixtrix1
Well-known member
Lot of work, but it's looking good! There's something about knowing it will probably be OK, then going back and making sure it is!
Thanks. Yeah. I am trying not to be a perfectionist about the framing though.
Finally had some non-rainy weather. It has been raining pretty much since late october here. Makes me seriously wonder how people in the PNW deal with that much rain.
Got the windows and door framed and first two rows of sheathing done.
In order to not have a small strip of plywood running across the rim joists, my plan is to run vertically for the last course. Will use more plywood/have more scrap, but I think the strength will be worth it. Also, on the front, the plan is to run vertical at each post section, and horizontal over the headers.
Had a cumulative error issue with the blocking, so had to knock out pieces where it made the studs not line up with the plywood.
Also, I had originally planned on a gable roof with a 10/12 pitch, now seriously considering a gambrel roof.
Got the windows and door framed and first two rows of sheathing done.
In order to not have a small strip of plywood running across the rim joists, my plan is to run vertically for the last course. Will use more plywood/have more scrap, but I think the strength will be worth it. Also, on the front, the plan is to run vertical at each post section, and horizontal over the headers.
Had a cumulative error issue with the blocking, so had to knock out pieces where it made the studs not line up with the plywood.
Also, I had originally planned on a gable roof with a 10/12 pitch, now seriously considering a gambrel roof.
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Also, have been impressed overall with the Advantech subfloor, but would have been nice to know that each sheet is 48" wide including the tongue, vs 48.5" wide like most other T & G sub floor.
Caused this at the end, which had me scratching my head for a bit.
Caused this at the end, which had me scratching my head for a bit.
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Go tthe doors and windows cut out. Finished nailing the bottom of the bridging. Next up is redoing the blocking that I had to remove and finish nailing the sheathing.
Also considering doing a gambrel roof. Looking into the feasibility of framing gambrel trusses. Found this site for laying them out
https://www.blocklayer.com/roof/gambreleng.aspx
Not sure if the output has any sort of engineering in them though.
Also considering doing a gambrel roof. Looking into the feasibility of framing gambrel trusses. Found this site for laying them out
https://www.blocklayer.com/roof/gambreleng.aspx
Not sure if the output has any sort of engineering in them though.
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joes99
Active member
You could stick frame the gambrel if you add knee walls with the studs stacking on your joists and a double lvl ridge beam. Check out my 25x35 post in the gallery.
The overhang might get into your garage door openings though depending on pitch.
The overhang might get into your garage door openings though depending on pitch.
Motoman1100
Well-known member
Great progress on the build. I live on the south side and feel your pain with this soggy few months. I can't get my tractor in my back woods with the ground so saturated.
Motoman1100
Well-known member
This made me laugh. My Step-Dad, who always helped with build projects around my house, would get ticked and remind me that framing was "rough carpentry" and "stop fussing about an 1/8' ". He's no longer with us, but I still hear his voice when I get too OCD about something.
LOL. I was told by a friend the other day when talking about it, and he said "It ain't no russian piano"
Motoman1100
Well-known member
Haha...truth.
I was thinking about that, but I feel like I would have to double or triple up the joists under the Knee wall. Not sure how easy that would be to do.
I had done a search on here to see what others did in regards to Gambrel roof design, and stumbled across this
https://www.lsuagcenter.com/~/media...69e5/6410bracedrafterdesigndata2034spans1.pdf
something like that would make it worthwhile. If I have to go with a ridge beam, would probably go back to my original plan of gable roof with a shed dormer on the back and regular dormers on the front.