Quincy QR 25 series model FF 350 compressor setup.

Strouty · Jul 25, 2015

Big Quincy QR 25 series air compressor model FF 350

Last April (2014) I did a little horse trading and ended up with what seems to be nice Quincy compressor. It is currently apart (previous owner took it apart for storage reasons) and I am trying to figure out how it goes back together. Some of it is super obvious, some is going to take a little trial and error. I have found a few others, but not many pictures of them. The pictures I have found are not very detailed.

It is two 350 pumps on one tank

Quincy sent me the parts breakdown for the pumps ROC (Record Of Change) 21, but the rep from Quincy told me that I should use ROC 100 for ordering parts. The pumps are 1983, but the tank is 1984 so I am guessing that it was assembled in 1984 and either put in service in 1984 or 1985.

Here are a few pictures of it from the auction, where I bid on it, but lost. Then when I talked with the kid that bought it, he told me to talk with his father. After finding out that the father thought his son was bidding on trailer style air compressor we made a deal to trade it for another compressor that I had, a 25 HP 3 PH rotary screw that I could not run. Luckily he could run it and we made a deal. I only had $250 into the other compressor and we traded even, considering he paid close to $750 for the quincy, I feel it was a great deal for me.

Strouty · Jul 25, 2015

After looking things over it was clear I was going to need to make some changes to the tank so I could pick it up with my forklift from the bottom.

The only way I could pick the tank was to put the forks in the narrow way under the platform for the compressor heads. My forklift also would not go wide enough to get the forks into the welded brackets that mounted the feet, so I had to figure out a way to not only pick it up from the bottom, but also keep it from tipping over, with the two heads and two motors it is going to be top heavy.

Strouty · Jul 25, 2015

After reading the specs, I found I could run up to a 15HP motor on it, the current motors were 3 phase 7.5 HP and I had an old single phase 10 HP that I wanted to use, but it needs a bit of work. So I went looking for another single phase 10 HP motor and starter. So I found another compressor that was working with a single phase 10 HP motor. I ended up selling the compressor and tank so I only had a couple hundred dollars in the motor and starter. Of course later I found out that the starter is not sized correctly, but it at least will start the motor so I can test things.

Strouty · Jul 25, 2015

When I flipped the tank over, it sounded like it was raining, rust.

So I decided that I was going to have to check the tank out a little more. At this point I have measured it with my ultrasonic tester, but I am not sure exactly what the tag on the tank means, it has a few different numbers and some acronyms that I do not know what they mean. The tank varied from 0.230" to 0.198" (only two spots like that), most areas were between 0.220" and 0.230"

The (Shell) S.H.T.H. .228 and the (Head) H.D.T.H. .198 are the thicknesses of the tank body and ends.

Strouty · Jul 25, 2015

I will say that if you ever decide on a bigger air compressor, don't sell your old one until you have the new one done. I made that mistake, I sold my old IR to a fellow GJer and have been compressorless for a year. Here is the old "small" one.

250 · Jul 26, 2015

Strouty said:
I will say that if you ever decide on a bigger air compressor, don't sell your old one until you have the new one done.

***** blowing up tires with your lungs and a straw huh? :lol_hitti

As I understand it, you're planning on running one pump with the 10hp?

Strouty · Jul 26, 2015

250 said:
***** blowing up tires with your lungs and a straw huh?

As I understand it, you're planning on running one pump with the 10hp?

One is going to be 10HP, not sure about the other one. I was considering using a 15 HP, but I need to do some more research on the specs. It seems that the 350 pump has limitations that may not make using a 15 HP motor worth it. The smallest I would go with is 7.5 HP, I am trying to make 50 CFM minimum, but I would like closer to 75 CFM, not sure that it will be able to make it.

Strouty · Jul 26, 2015

Anyone know a good paint match? I am going to have to paint a bunch of the tank and thought trying to match it would be better than repainting the entire compressor.

Also what would you guys suggest for feet?

Strouty · Jul 26, 2015

I guess now I am a little concerned about the tank itself. I just pulled about 10 pounds of rust scale out of the tank and there is still a bit more. My Father says run it and don't worry about it, others have said just derate the pressure. I can buy a new ASME tank that is a bit bigger and is vertical for a bit over $1500, another option that was suggested is to buy a propane tank and use that as the air receiver. I will post some pictures later so you guys can see what I am dealing with.

250 · Jul 26, 2015

Strouty said:
Also what would you buys suggest for feet?

Hockey pucks seem popular

Strouty · Jul 26, 2015

250 said:
Hockey pucks seem popular

My brother gave me some to use, so I may try them. Did you open up your tank and inspect inside it?

Strouty · Jul 26, 2015

Here is a bit more detail of the rust in the tank.

Strouty · Jul 26, 2015

Tomorrow I am going to blow the rest of the loose rust to one end so I can vacuum it out as well. The steel overall doesn't look terrible, I also think that most people never turn their tanks upside down, so it was more dramatic when I flipped it to hear all the rust. I am also going to check a few more places with the ultrasonic gauge just to make me feel better. It looks like the minimum thickness based on the ASME charts for a 30" diameter tank with 200 PSI WP is 3/16" so even the thin spots are thicker than that.

250 · Jul 28, 2015

I didn't. I did have the head and motor removed when I was getting it in, but all I would have been able to see was what I could have seen through the 1 inch intake hole, so I don't know how much I would have gained. I suspect that work would frown if I brought a fiberoptic home with me for an evening. Mine isn't as old as yours, I believe quincy told me its a 99' model but I'm sure there's some gunk in there.

Monkey Milk · Jul 29, 2015

Stoudy, May I ask why you need to make so much CFM. I did notice a clemco hood filter next to your old IR comp. You sandblasting?

Strouty · Jul 29, 2015

Sandblasting outside and I have a big blast cabinet that I want to use inside.

Monkey Milk · Jul 29, 2015

What size is your pot? You running both at the same time?

Strouty · Jul 29, 2015

I sold the one that I used to use with my Fathers 180 CFM compressor, it was a pain to use as the parts were worn and no one seemed to have parts. I will end up getting something that will work on 50 CFM. The blast cabinet will be set for one person use and I would not be doing outside and inside blasting at the same time. Trinco recommends a minimum of 47 CFM if I remember correctly, that is using a 1/4" nozzle and they told me it will need more CFM as the nozzle wears.

Strouty · Jul 29, 2015

Here is the chart that trinco gave me.

Monkey Milk · Jul 29, 2015

My old workplace used a towable compressor hooked up a to a big tank, I mean big.(50x10?) I don't remember the size but without that stow-able air the comp couldn't keep up with the demand. We had 2 comps, 1 for the pot and the other for the helmets. We could run the #250 or #350 clemco pot all day long.

I would defiantly go this way if I was to do it again, but we're(Hawaii)the highest cost of electricity in the country and running electrical comps all day long doesn't make it feasible.

Monkey Milk · Jul 29, 2015

Oh by the way, NICE BOX! I do miss the industrial stuff.

I used to go to South Portland every other year when I was younger to visit family which is still there.

Strouty · Jul 30, 2015

Re: Big Quincy QR 25 series air compressor model FF 350

Thanks. That is a long trip, I have not been to Hawaii, but I would sure like to visit someday.

mark52621 · Aug 1, 2015

I just finished a rebuild on a QR 350 ROC 16 and faced many of the same problems you are. Actually mine turned out to be a basket case and this is what would have save me a lot of time. Here are my thoughts.

If it is a basket case drop it off at your local dealer and exchange it for a factor rebuilt model for $1500. They will use your old compressor as a core that will be rebuilt for the next guy. Same day service. Seems like a lot but these are ~4500 new and parts are spendy.

To find out if it is a basket case:
Pull off the exhaust valve over the high pressure piston and see what kind of shape it is in, this one will be the worst. While it is off see how much carbon is in the head.
If it is a lot of carbon pull of the head and measure the amount of wear on the cylinder walls. The manual will list how much is ok. Pull out the high pressure piston and if it has slop in the wristpin when you bend it sideways You can’t get the old style wrist pins anymore, and I was told the rings used on the oversized pistons don’t work as well as the standard sized piston rings. So trade it in if it needs more a hone and standard rings.

Drain the oil, clean the crankcase, and spin the flywheel to see any slop in the pistons. Push and pull on the flywheel to check if the bearings on the crankshaft need to be tightened. Also feel for roughness in the crank shaft bearings. If it sat unused for long periods of time water can get to the bearing closest to the flywheel on the older models.

If all you need are bearings, rings, gaskets, diaphragms, small things like that do it yourself, anything else you will be time and money ahead to trade it in. I do have a good used oil pump if you need it. .

I have a photo showing an excellent paint match I will try to find. I believe it was Valspar pacific blue.

On the tank clean out the loose rust and use it. Replace it when it gets pinhole leaks in the bottom.

I used a 7.5 hp motor. Call quincy tell they model number, motor hp and max pressure they will tell you what size pulley.

Feel free to ask me any questions you have

bsaint · Aug 1, 2015

If youre interested in a pump alternator, Ive built a few PLC controlled ones. It allows you can run one side or the other or both at the same time.

On-Wheel · Aug 1, 2015

Have you seen the vid of guy spinning tank with pipe threader ,gravel-water in it?
He painted the inside spinning it also,on youtube!
I also watched a series of a 350 being rebuilt.The guy said the cleaning was more time consuming than assembling of parts.

Oh ,that ultrasonic testing sounds cool.I haven't seen many talk about that.Most recommend hydro testing.Propably because most have a water hose.

Strouty · Aug 1, 2015

Mark, I will check into all of that for sure. I am hoping these are in decent shape, but who knows. Good to know about the trade in program.

Bsaint, that is kind of what I am thinking about doing. I figure I can run the smaller setup for basic operation, the larger one for medium duty, and both for sand blasting or other large consumption operations.

On-Wheel, I saw that video, but this is a lot bigger tank and I don't own a pipe threader! I would be concerned if you don't get every spot, it would become a terrible risk that the rust would concentrate on that area. I am going to pressure wash the inside and get all the particles out, then dry it out with a rosebud like the guy from the video. I figure a bit of air tool oil sprayed inside the tank will help, but I plan on inspecting things again in a year and seeing if there is any more rusting issues.

mark52621 · Aug 1, 2015

If I had two pumps that is what I would do.
Can you set it up so the pumps alternate which one starts?

Strouty · Aug 1, 2015

Re: Big Quincy QR 25 series air compressor model FF 350

Yes, I can set it up to run one or the other or have them start based on certain pressures.

Strouty · Aug 2, 2015

I need to finish welding my fork pockets and get some primer on the bare steel, not sure if I am going to pressure wash the tank today or not. I would like to take some time to dive into the compressor heads and see what I find. Hopefully nothing of major consequence. I know they spin and they make a noise like they are making air, but that is all I know.

Strouty · Aug 2, 2015

Still no luck on a paint match, I tried ford blue, new holland blue, sail blue, but they are all too bright and darker. I think it will just get totally repainted later. I welded up the fork pockets and now I am going to just prime them, then the tank is going outside until after I get it pressure washed.

bsaint · Aug 2, 2015

Itll be hard to match the paint if the unit has been outside at all. Im sure you already know UV light and industrial paints generally dont mix. When we had Quincy's come in for rebuilds the ones that sat in a little mechanical room on the 30th floor were a nice cobalt blue. The ones that side under a lean too or on a tire changing truck were light blue.

Strouty · Aug 2, 2015

I think I am going to paint it purple and just name it Barney. I like blue, but I also like unique things.

bsaint · Aug 3, 2015

Put a lot of metallic in it!

Strouty · Mar 3, 2016

So it has been essentially two years now and I just got one pump working, I have to move the motor to the other pump and try it next. It looks like I have a small leak on one of the unloader valves, but I am not 100% sure yet. I will be looking over the manual to see what it could be. I also need another pressure relief valve, the one on the tank pops at 100 PSI. The oil pressure looked good and it built air pressure well for a 200 gallon tank. I love the sound, not too loud, but very powerful.

This was before I matched the belts and tightened them, guess I didn't take a picture afterwards.

This is the unloader?? It is leaking air out of the small hole, not really high pressure, I can stop it with my finger, but it is a steady leak.

Strouty · Mar 4, 2016

I got a new pop off valve for the tank. I also spoke to a local guy that I have known for several years, he told me that he may have another complete compressor just like this one for me. I sure hope he wins the bid, if he does, I get another one of these duplex units for the cost of a few hours driving.

A_Pmech · Mar 4, 2016

Yay! It half runs! :beer:

Strouty · Mar 4, 2016

Nope, it whole runs! I moved the motor over tonight and the other side works too! Of course I can't run both at the same time yet.

One of the unoaders is leaking, so I have to figure that out next.

250 · Mar 5, 2016

Strouty said:
This is the unloader?? It is leaking air out of the small hole, not really high pressure, I can stop it with my finger, but it is a steady leak.

Yep, that's the unloader exhaust port. My diaphrams leaked, replacing them wasn't hard, finding the part was a little more challenging as they aren't included in the standard gasket even though the woman tech support confirmed they were.

Strouty · Mar 5, 2016

Did it leak out the hole that you see or was it leaking somewhere else? I have found them all over ebay, looks like people make them out of the same material and sell them. They are anywhere from $5 shipped to whatever you want to pay.

dkmc · Mar 5, 2016

Strouty,

I have a question about your metal thickness tester....
Is it the type that uses a Gel that the metal needs to be coated with?
If so, how much of your tank did you test? It seems testing
the entire tank would take a lot of the Gel?

Also could you explain how you use the tester?
Do you mover it all over the surface of the tank, or do you hold it
in different spots? How many spots on the entire tank?

I have several tanks I need to test, and I see these units on EBAY for
reasonable prices.

Thank you

Quincy QR 25 series model FF 350 compressor setup.

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